I don’t know about you, but I absolutely melt when I see handmade baby clothes. There’s just something about tiny overalls that makes my heart do a little flip. And when those overalls have an adorable teddy bear face on the front? Forget about it.
These baby overalls have been living rent-free in my head since I first sketched them out. The combination of that soft cream fabric with the sweet brown teddy bear applique is exactly the kind of project that makes me remember why I fell in love with crochet in the first place.
Whether you’re making these for your own little one, a baby shower gift, or just because you spotted the cutest yarn and needed an excuse, this pattern delivers all the cozy handmade goodness with a construction method that’s totally manageable. Let me walk you through every single step.
Why You’ll Love Making These Crochet Baby Overalls
These overalls are designed with both the maker and the baby in mind. The half double crochet (hdc) fabric creates a dense, slightly stretchy texture that’s soft against delicate skin while still holding its shape beautifully. The cotton yarn keeps everything breathable for baby, and the wooden button closures add that perfect handcrafted touch.
The construction is straightforward once you understand the flow. You’ll work two leg pieces flat, seam them into tubes, join them at the crotch, work the body in the round, then shape the front bib while working flat. The straps and teddy bear applique are separate pieces that get attached at the end. Breaking it down into sections like this makes even an intermediate project feel totally doable.
The ribbed details at the leg openings and bib top give these overalls a polished, professional look. That horizontal texture you see at the top of the bib? That’s a separate ribbing strip worked in back loop only stitches and attached. It sounds fancy, but I promise it’s easier than it looks.
Skill Level and Time Estimate
I’d call this an intermediate level crochet pattern. You should be comfortable working flat and in the round, seaming pieces together, basic shaping with increases and decreases, and making a small amigurumi-style applique.
If you’re a confident beginner with a few finished projects under your belt, you can absolutely tackle this. Just take your time with the leg joining section and read through the instructions completely before you start.
Time estimate: Plan for about 6 to 10 hours for an experienced crocheter. The teddy bear applique and finishing details add some extra time, so don’t rush yourself. This is the kind of project that’s perfect for spreading over a relaxing weekend.
Finished Measurements
Newborn to 3 Months: Chest circumference approximately 16 inches (40.5 cm), length from top of bib to bottom of leg approximately 13 inches (33 cm), inseam approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm).
3 to 6 Months: Chest circumference approximately 17.5 inches (44.5 cm), length approximately 14 inches (35.5 cm), inseam approximately 3.5 inches (9 cm).
The pattern is written for Newborn to 3 Months. Changes for 3 to 6 Months appear in parentheses where the numbers differ.
Materials You’ll Need
Yarn for main overalls: Worsted weight, 100% cotton or cotton-blend, approximately 250 (300) yards / 229 (274) meters in Main Color (MC) cream or off-white.
Yarn for applique: Small amount of worsted weight in Brown (B1) for bear outer face and ears, and in Tan or Beige (B2) for bear muzzle. Approximately 15 yards each.
Hook: US size G-6 / 4.0 mm for main fabric. US size F-5 / 3.75 mm for applique.
Notions: Yarn needle, stitch markers, 4 wooden buttons approximately 15 mm diameter, sewing needle and thread to match buttons, black embroidery floss for bear nose and eyes (or 2 small black safety eyes 6 mm if used on a decorative piece only and not worn by infant under 3 years), scissors.
Yarn Suggestions
Option 1: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Ecru. 100% mercerized cotton, worsted weight, 186 yards per 100g skein. Excellent stitch definition and machine washable. You will need 2 skeins.
Option 2: We Are Knitters The Cotton in Natural. 100% pima cotton, worsted weight, 164 yards per 100g ball. Luxuriously soft with a slight sheen. You will need 2 balls.
Option 3: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK used double throughout. If substituting with DK held double, check gauge before proceeding. 100% pure cotton, widely available. Adjust hook to G-6 / 4.0 mm held double.
Substitution Note: Any worsted weight yarn that achieves gauge will work. Cotton or cotton-blend is strongly recommended for breathability and washability. Avoid yarns with more than 20% synthetic content as they reduce stitch definition in the half double crochet fabric.
Gauge
With G-6 / 4.0 mm hook in main stitch (hdc worked in rows):
16 hdc x 12 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches (10 cm x 10 cm).
Gauge is critical here. Adjust hook size up or down until gauge is achieved. A too-loose gauge will produce a floppy, oversized garment. A too-tight gauge will produce a stiff, undersized garment.
Ribbing gauge: The ribbing rows are worked in a separate orientation and will be slightly denser. Ribbing finished width should be approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) per 4 rows of blo-sc ribbing.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
Special Stitches Explained
Let me break down the key stitches you’ll use throughout this pattern.
HDC (Half Double Crochet): Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. Counts as 1 stitch. This is your main fabric stitch and creates that nice dense texture.
HDC2TOG (Half Double Crochet Two Together): Yarn over, insert hook into first indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into next indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 5 loops. Counts as 1 stitch. This is a decrease of 1 stitch. You’ll use this to shape the bib.
BLO-SC RIB (Back Loop Only Single Crochet Ribbing): On every row, insert hook into the back loop only of each stitch and work single crochet (sc). When worked back and forth on a short rectangle, this creates a stretchy ribbing texture with visible ridges. Turn with ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). This is what gives the leg cuffs and bib band that professional ribbed look.
SC2TOG (Single Crochet Two Together): Insert hook into first indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook. Counts as 1 stitch. This is a decrease of 1 stitch.
Important Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. The overalls are constructed in the following order: two leg tubes worked flat and seamed, joined at the crotch, body worked in the round to underarm, bib worked flat, straps worked flat, ribbing added to leg openings and bib top, teddy bear applique worked separately and sewn on, buttons attached.
2. The ch-1 turning chain at the beginning of each hdc row does NOT count as a stitch throughout this pattern. Always work into the first stitch of every row.
3. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round when working in the round to track the start of rounds.
4. When joining the legs, be careful to orient both pieces so the seams face the same direction (toward the back). The back has a straight upper edge while the front has a shaped bib.
5. Buttons are sewn to the strap ends. Buttonholes are worked into the bib band.
6. Safety note: If making these overalls for a baby under 36 months, use embroidered eyes on the bear applique, not safety eyes.
Step by Step Crochet Pattern Instructions
Section 1: Legs (Make 2)
The legs are worked flat as a rectangle, then seamed along the short side to form a tube.
Foundation Chain: Ch 29 (32).
Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (28, 31 hdc)
Row 2: Hdc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (28, 31 hdc)
Rows 3 through 10 (3 through 11): Rep Row 2. Ch 1, turn. (28, 31 hdc)
After Row 10 (11), do not turn. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for seaming.
Leg Seam: Fold the rectangle in half so the short edges meet. Using the tail and a yarn needle, whipstitch or mattress stitch along the short edge to form a tube. The seam becomes the inner leg seam. Turn tube right side out.
Leg Ribbing
With G-6 hook, join MC to the bottom edge of one leg tube at the seam.
Foundation for Ribbing: Ch 5.
Ribbing Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (4 sc). Ch 1, turn.
Ribbing Rows 2 onward: Working in blo, sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
Work ribbing rows until the ribbing strip is long enough to go around the bottom of the leg opening: approximately 28 (31) rows.
Seam the ribbing strip into a loop and attach it to the bottom edge of the leg tube using slip stitch or whipstitch. The ribbing will naturally stretch and compress. Adjust row count by 1 or 2 if needed to achieve a snug but not tight fit.
Set finished legs aside.
Checkpoint After Legs
Each finished leg tube with ribbing attached should measure approximately 4 inches (10 cm) tall including ribbing, and approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm) in circumference for newborn-3M, or 7.75 inches (19.5 cm) for 3-6M.
Section 2: Joining the Legs and Working the Body
This is where the magic happens. Take a breath. You’ve got this.
Joining Round: Hold both leg tubes with seams aligned toward the back. Working from the top edge of one leg, join MC with a sl st, ch 1.
Round 1 (Join): Hdc across 28 (31) sts of first leg, ch 2 (this forms the crotch bridge front), hdc across 28 (31) sts of second leg, ch 2 (this forms the crotch bridge back), join with sl st to first hdc of round. (56, 62 hdc plus 4 ch = 60, 66 working sts)
Note: The 4 chain stitches are counted as 4 stitches in the next round.
Round 2: Ch 1. Hdc in each of the 28 (31) hdc of first leg section, hdc in each of 2 ch sts of front bridge, hdc in each of 28 (31) hdc of second leg section, hdc in each of 2 ch sts of back bridge. Join with sl st to first hdc. (60, 66 hdc)
Rounds 3 through 14 (3 through 16): Ch 1. Hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (60, 66 hdc)
The body tube should now measure approximately 5 to 5.5 inches (12.5 to 14 cm) from the crotch join, not including leg ribbing.
Checkpoint After Body Tube
The joined body tube at Round 14 (16) should measure approximately 5.5 inches (14 cm) from crotch join, and 15 inches (38 cm) in circumference for newborn-3M, or 16.5 inches (42 cm) for 3-6M.
Section 3: Dividing for Front Bib and Back
At this point you will stop working in the round. The front bib is worked separately as a flat panel.
Divide for Bib: After completing the last round, do not join. The round should end at the back-right side of the body. Identify the front 28 (31) sts. Place a stitch marker at the first and last of these front sts.
Back Section: Sl st across the first 16 (17) sts of the back section (the sts not included in the front bib). Fasten off the back sts after the sl st row. These sts will be finished with a back edging row later.
Front Bib Working: Join MC with ch 1 to the first marked front st.
Row 1 (RS): Hdc in each of 28 (31) sts across. Ch 1, turn. (28, 31 hdc)
Row 2: Hdc2tog over first 2 sts, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (26, 29 hdc)
Row 3: Hdc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (26, 29 hdc)
Row 4: Hdc2tog over first 2 sts, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (24, 27 hdc)
Rows 5 through 10: Hdc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (24, 27 hdc)
After Row 10, fasten off. The bib panel should measure approximately 3.5 inches (9 cm) tall and 6 inches (15 cm) wide.
Bib Top Ribbing
Work a ribbing band along the top edge of the bib to create the neat finished top visible on the pictured garment.
Foundation for Ribbing: Ch 5.
Ribbing Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (4 sc). Ch 1, turn.
Ribbing Rows 2 onward: Blo-sc across all 4 sts. Ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
Work until strip equals the width of the bib top: approximately 24 (27) rows.
Attach ribbing strip to top edge of bib using sl st seam. This creates the horizontal ribbed band visible at the top of the bib. This is also where you’ll attach the straps.
Back Neck Edging
Rejoin MC to the top right corner of the back section.
Row 1: Sc evenly across the top back edge, working approximately 1 sc for every hdc row and 1 sc for every stitch. Aim for 32 (34) sc across the back top. Ch 1, turn. (32, 34 sc)
Row 2: Sc in each st across. Fasten off and weave in ends. (32, 34 sc)
Section 4: Straps (Make 2)
Each strap is a narrow flat rectangle worked in blo-sc ribbing for a neat, slightly stretchy band.
Foundation Chain: Ch 6.
Strap Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
Strap Rows 2 through 36 (2 through 40): Blo-sc across all 5 sts. Ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
Buttonhole Row: On each strap, before fastening off final row, work the last row as follows: Blo-sc in first st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, blo-sc in last 2 sts. (2 sc, ch-2, 2 sc = 5 working positions). Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail.
The finished strap should measure approximately 1.25 inches (3 cm) wide and 10 inches (25.5 cm) long for newborn-3M, or 11 inches (28 cm) for 3-6M.
Attach the non-buttonhole end of each strap to the back top edge of the overalls, spaced approximately 2 inches (5 cm) apart and centered. Sew securely with yarn needle and tail.
Cross the straps at the back. Bring each strap over the shoulder and let the buttonhole end fall over the front bib top ribbing band.
Sew 2 wooden buttons to the front bib top ribbing band, positioned to align with the strap buttonholes. Spacing should allow adjustment. A second button can be sewn 0.5 inch (1.25 cm) above or below the first on each side for adjustability, using 4 buttons total as pictured.
Section 5: Teddy Bear Face Applique
Use F-5 / 3.75 mm hook and B1 (Brown) yarn throughout unless noted.
Outer Head
Round 1: MR, work 6 sc into ring. Pull ring closed. (6 sc)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)
Round 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Round 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) around. (24 sc)
Round 5: Sc in each st around. (24 sc)
Round 6: Sl st in each st around. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
The head circle should measure approximately 2 to 2.25 inches (5 to 5.5 cm) in diameter.
Muzzle
Switch to B2 (Tan/Beige) yarn.
Round 1: MR, work 6 sc into ring. Pull ring closed. (6 sc)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)
Round 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sc)
Sl st to join. Fasten off, leaving a tail. The muzzle should measure approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter.
Ears (Make 2)
With B1 (Brown):
Round 1: MR, work 6 sc into ring. Pull ring closed. (6 sc)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)
Sl st to join. Fasten off, leaving a tail. Each ear should measure approximately 0.75 inch (2 cm) in diameter.
Assembling the Applique
Position the muzzle on the lower half of the head circle, centered. The muzzle should sit on the bottom third of the head. Sew the muzzle in place using B2 tail and a yarn needle, stitching around the entire outer edge.
Using black embroidery floss, embroider a small triangle nose at the top center of the muzzle. Embroider two small round eyes on the head, centered above the muzzle, approximately 0.5 inch (1.25 cm) apart.
Position the two ears at the top of the head circle, one on each side, at approximately the 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions. Sew each ear securely using the B1 tails.
Attaching the Applique to the Overalls
Center the completed teddy bear face on the front bib, with the top of the bear face touching or just below the bib top ribbing band. The bear face should sit centered left-to-right on the bib panel.
Using B1 yarn and a yarn needle, sew around the entire outer edge of the head circle, attaching it securely to the bib. Keep stitches small and close together so the applique lays flat.
Size Customization Tips
To size up to 6 to 9 months: Add 3 stitches to the foundation chain of each leg (making 31 sts) and add 2 more rounds to the body tube section (16 rounds total after the join). Extend straps by 4 rows each.
To size up to 9 to 12 months: Start with 34 stitches per leg, add 4 more body rounds beyond the base pattern (18 rounds), and extend straps by 8 rows each.
To adjust inseam length: Each leg row adds approximately 0.3 inch (0.75 cm) in height. Add or subtract rows in pairs to maintain symmetry.
To adjust bib depth: Each bib row adds approximately 0.3 inch (0.75 cm). Add plain hdc rows between shaping rows to lengthen.
Gauge adjustment: If your gauge is slightly off, changing hook size is always preferable to changing stitch counts.
Finishing and Blocking Your Baby Overalls
Weave in all ends securely using a yarn needle, running each tail through several stitches in multiple directions before trimming.
Blocking: If using cotton yarn, wet block the finished overalls by soaking in cool water for 15 minutes, gently pressing out excess water in a towel, and laying flat to dry. Pin the bib panel flat and square, and pin leg openings to the correct circumference. Allow to dry completely before handling.
If using an acrylic or acrylic-blend yarn, steam block lightly by holding a steam iron 1 inch above the surface. Do not press the iron onto the fabric.
Button Attachment: Sew all buttons with doubled thread using a sewing needle, passing through the button and fabric at least 6 times, and knotting securely on the wrong side. Snip thread ends short.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with a gentle detergent. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, iron directly, or dry clean. If using Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton or Paintbox Simply DK, machine wash on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag with cold water, and lay flat to dry. Always check the yarn label for the most current care information for your specific yarn choice. Store folded, not on a hanger, to preserve the shape of the straps.
You Did It!
I hope you’ve enjoyed making these adorable teddy bear baby overalls as much as I enjoyed designing them. There’s nothing quite like creating something handmade for a little one, and these overalls are guaranteed to get all the "awws" at the baby shower or first photo shoot.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. I’d absolutely love to see your finished overalls! Tag me on Instagram or share in my Facebook group so I can admire your work and maybe even feature it.
If you loved this crochet tutorial for baby overalls, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it again later. And please drop a comment below if you make these cuties. I read every single one and it truly makes my day to hear from you!
