I call this one the "Garden Party Cardigan." It started in a little spiral notebook I keep in my craft room, sketched out during a rainy afternoon when I was thinking about what I’d want to wrap my best friend’s new baby in for her first autumn. I wanted something with texture you could feel, something that looked handmade in the best possible way, and something in a color that felt fresh and modern.
That sketch sat in my notebook for almost a year before I finally sat down with a skein of sage green wool and started working it out stitch by stitch. The bobbles took a few tries to get right. The raglan shaping needed tweaking. But when I finally held the finished cardigan in my hands, I knew this was the one.
Now I’m sharing it with you. This sage bobble stitch baby cardigan crochet pattern has become one of my most requested designs, and I think you’ll see why once you get started. The construction is clever, the texture is absolutely gorgeous, and the finished piece looks like something you’d find in a boutique.
Why This Baby Cardigan Pattern Works So Well
This crochet pattern uses a seamless top-down construction, which means minimal sewing at the end. You start at the neckline and work your way down through the yoke, then split for the body and sleeves. The sleeves get picked up later and worked in the round. It sounds complicated, but I promise it flows naturally once you get going.
The star of this design is the bobble stitch texture that covers the lower body and sleeves. Bobbles add dimension and visual interest without being fussy. They push through to the right side of your work, creating those satisfying little bumps you can see in the finished cardigan. Between the smooth single crochet yoke and the textured bobble sections, you get a beautiful contrast that makes this piece special.
The ribbed neckband, cuffs, and hem tie everything together. Working in the back loop only creates that stretchy, knit-like ribbing that looks polished and professional. Five wooden buttons down the front add a natural, handcrafted touch that complements the sage green perfectly.
Skill Level and Time Estimate
I’d call this an intermediate crochet pattern. You should be comfortable with basic stitches, working in the round, and keeping track of stitch counts through increases. The raglan shaping requires attention, and the bobble stitch needs a bit of practice if you haven’t done it before.
That said, nothing here is truly difficult. If you’ve made a hat or a simple sweater, you can absolutely handle this cardigan. I’ll walk you through every stitch and explain the tricky parts as we go.
Time estimate: Approximately 8 to 12 hours depending on your experience level. I like to think of it as a perfect weekend project or a relaxing week of evening crochet sessions.
Finished Measurements
This pattern is written for size 6 to 12 months. Here are the finished dimensions:
Materials Needed
Yarn
You’ll need worsted weight yarn, approximately 350 to 400 yards (320 to 365 meters) in sage green. I recommend 100% merino wool or a wool blend for the best stitch definition and drape.
Yarn suggestions:
Option 1: Lion Brand Wool-Ease in Sage. This is a widely available worsted wool-acrylic blend that gives excellent stitch definition for bobbles. You’ll need 2 skeins (197 yards per skein).
Option 2: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double. This creates a slightly loftier fabric. You’ll need 3 skeins (137 yards per skein).
Option 3: We Are Knitters The Wool in Sage Green. A beautiful 100% Peruvian wool with great stitch separation. You’ll need 2 skeins (186 yards per skein).
Substitution tip: Choose any worsted weight that achieves gauge. Avoid slippery or splitty fibers since the bobble stitch relies on clean loops.
Hooks
Notions
Gauge
With J / 6.0 mm hook in single crochet:
14 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm), blocked
With J / 6.0 mm hook in bobble stitch pattern:
12 bobbles across (24 stitches) and 8 rows = 4 inches (10 cm), blocked
Please check your gauge. A difference of even one stitch per 4 inches will change the chest circumference by up to 1.5 inches over the full width. Take the time to swatch before you begin.
Abbreviations
Let me explain each abbreviation before we start. Understanding these will make the pattern much easier to follow.
Special Stitches
Bobble (bo)
This creates those beautiful textured bumps that define this cardigan. Here’s how to work it:
Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. You now have 1 incomplete double crochet on your hook. Repeat this process 4 more times in the same stitch, so you have 6 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops at once.
You can work one chain after the bobble to close it firmly, but this chain does NOT count as a stitch. The bobble naturally pushes to the wrong side of your work, which means when you work bobbles on right-side rows, they’ll appear on the public-facing side of the cardigan.
Don’t worry if your first few bobbles look a bit wonky. They take a little practice to get consistent.
Raglan Increase (RagInc)
This is how we shape the yoke to create room for the shoulders and sleeves:
Work 2 sc in the stitch before the marker, slip the marker, work 2 sc in the stitch after the marker. This creates 2 new stitches on each side of each raglan marker, adding 4 stitches per raglan point. Since we have 4 raglan points, each increase row adds 8 stitches total.
Ribbing (worked flat)
Row 1: Ch 5. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (4 sc)
All subsequent rows: Ch 1, sc in BL of each st across. Turn. (4 sc)
The ribbing strip is worked to the required length, then rotated 90 degrees for attachment.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. This cardigan is worked flat from the top down through the yoke. Button bands are written for the right front (as worn), which is traditional for girls. Adjust placement if desired.
2. Stitch markers go at the four raglan points. Move them up each row as you work.
3. Ch 1 at the start of sc rows does NOT count as a stitch. This is important for keeping your stitch counts accurate.
4. When placing sleeves on hold, use scrap yarn threaded through the stitches rather than stitch markers. This keeps everything secure.
5. The bobble stitch requires an even number of stitches. Double-check your count before starting the bobble section.
6. Block your finished cardigan before sewing on buttons. This allows the bobbles to bloom and the ribbing to settle properly.
Step-by-Step Crochet Pattern Instructions
Neckband
With I / 5.5 mm hook, ch 5.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each remaining ch. Turn. (4 sc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in BL of each st. Turn. (4 sc)
Repeat Row 2 until neckband measures 13 inches (33 cm), ending after a WS row. Do not fasten off.
Checkpoint: Your neckband strip should be 13 inches long, giving approximately 52 ribbing rows.
Fold the strip and seam the short ends together with a slip stitch join. The resulting ring becomes the neckline.
Yoke Setup Row
Switch to J / 6.0 mm hook. With RS facing, work 66 sc evenly around the long edge of the neckband, beginning and ending at the seam (which becomes the right front center edge). Turn. (66 sc)
This counts as Row 1 of the yoke.
Stitch placement for raglan setup:
Total: 66 sc with 4 markers placed.
Yoke Increase Rows
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc across to 1 st before first marker, RagInc, sm, sc to 1 st before next marker, RagInc, sm, sc to 1 st before next marker, RagInc, sm, sc to 1 st before last marker, RagInc, sm, sc to end. Turn. (74 sc)
Row 3 (RS, plain): Ch 1, sc in each st across, slipping markers as you pass them. Turn. (74 sc)
Row 4 (WS, increase): Ch 1, sc across to 1 st before first marker, RagInc, sm, sc to 1 st before next marker, RagInc, sm, sc to 1 st before next marker, RagInc, sm, sc to 1 st before last marker, RagInc, sm, sc to end. Turn. (82 sc)
Row 5 (RS, plain): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (82 sc)
Row 6 (WS, increase): Work as Row 4. Turn. (90 sc)
Row 7 (RS, plain): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (90 sc)
Row 8 (WS, increase): Work as Row 4. Turn. (98 sc)
Row 9 (RS, plain): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (98 sc)
Row 10 (WS, increase): Work as Row 4. Turn. (106 sc)
Row 11 (RS, plain): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (106 sc)
Row 12 (WS, increase): Work as Row 4. Turn. (114 sc)
Row 13 (RS, plain): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (114 sc)
Row 14 (WS, increase): Work as Row 4. Turn. (122 sc)
Row 15 (RS, plain): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (122 sc)
Row 16 (WS, increase): Work as Row 4. Turn. (130 sc)
Row 17 (RS, plain): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (130 sc)
Stitch distribution at Row 17:
Checkpoint: After Row 17, the yoke should measure approximately 4 inches from the neckband pickup row. The piece should be about 18.5 inches wide laid flat.
Divide for Body and Sleeves
Row 18 (WS, dividing row):
Ch 1. Sc across 18 right front sts. Place next 27 right sleeve sts on scrap yarn holder, removing markers. Ch 2 (underarm bridge), sk the held sleeve sts. Sc across 38 back sts. Place next 27 left sleeve sts on scrap yarn holder, removing markers. Ch 2 (underarm bridge), sk the held sleeve sts. Sc across 18 left front sts. Turn.
Working stitch count: 18 + 2 ch + 38 + 2 ch + 18 = 78 sts.
Row 19 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st and each ch across. Turn. (78 sc)
Checkpoint: The body should measure approximately 4.5 inches from the neckband edge.
Body Upper Section
Rows 20 to 22: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (78 sc each row)
After Row 22, the body section below the armhole bridge measures approximately 1.25 inches.
Body Bobble Section
The bobble field has 74 stitches (78 total minus 4 edge stitches for button bands). This divides evenly into 37 bobble-sc pairs per row.
Row 23 (RS, first bobble row):
Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts (right band edge), (bo in next st, sc in next st) 37 times across center 74 sts, sc in last 2 sts (left band edge). Turn. (78 sts; 37 bobbles)
Row 24 (WS, plain):
Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (78 sc)
Row 25 (WS, second bobble row):
Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, (sc in next st, bo in next st) 37 times, sc in last 2 sts. Turn. (78 sts; 37 bobbles, offset by 1 st from Row 23)
Row 26 (RS, plain):
Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (78 sc)
Repeat Rows 23 through 26 two more times (Rows 27 through 30, then Rows 31 through 34).
After Row 34, you’ll have completed 3 full sets of the 4-row bobble repeat for a bobble section approximately 3 inches tall.
Checkpoint: The full body from neckband to end of Row 34 should measure approximately 8.5 inches.
Body Ribbed Hem
Switch to I / 5.5 mm hook.
Row 35 (WS): Ch 1, sc in BL of each st across. Turn. (78 sc)
Rows 36 through 42: Ch 1, sc in BL of each st across. Turn. (78 sc each row)
The hem is 8 rows of back-loop ribbing, approximately 2 inches tall.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Checkpoint: The completed body should measure 11 inches from neckband to hem edge.
Sleeves (Make 2)
Return held 27 sleeve sts to J / 6.0 mm hook.
Setup round: Join yarn to the underarm bridge. Pick up and sc 1 st in each of the 2 underarm ch sts, then sc around the 27 held sleeve sts. Join with sl st to first st. Do not turn. Place marker for beginning of round. (29 sc)
Round 1 (plain): Sc around, sc2tog once at the underarm point. Join. (28 sc)
Round 2 (bobble round): (Bo in next st, sc in next st) 14 times around. Join. (28 sts; 14 bobbles)
Round 3 (plain): Sc around. Join. (28 sc)
Round 4 (bobble round, offset): (Sc in next st, bo in next st) 14 times around. Join. (28 sts; 14 bobbles)
Round 5 (plain): Sc around. Join. (28 sc)
Repeat Rounds 2 through 5 three more times (Rounds 6 through 17) for a total bobble section of approximately 4.5 inches.
Checkpoint: After the bobble section, the sleeve should measure approximately 4.5 inches from the underarm with a circumference of about 8 inches.
Sleeve Cuff
Switch to I / 5.5 mm hook.
Round 18 (decrease round): (Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts) 4 times. (24 sc)
Rounds 19 through 25: Ch 1, working in BL, sc around. Join. (24 sc each round)
The cuff is 7 rounds of back-loop ribbing, approximately 1.75 inches tall.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
The completed sleeve measures approximately 6.5 inches from underarm to cuff edge.
Make the second sleeve identically.
Button Bands
Right front button band (buttonhole band):
With I / 5.5 mm hook, RS facing, join yarn at the bottom right front edge.
Pick up and sc 44 sts evenly up the right front edge from hem to neckband. Turn. (44 sc)
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in BL of each st across. Turn. (44 sc)
Row 2 (RS, buttonhole row):
Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, (ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts) 4 times, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Turn. (5 buttonholes evenly spaced)
Row 3 (WS): Ch 1, sc across, working 2 sc into each ch-2 space to fill buttonholes. Turn. (44 sc)
Row 4 (RS): Ch 1, sc in BL of each st across. Turn. (44 sc)
Fasten off.
Left front button band (plain band):
With I / 5.5 mm hook, RS facing, join yarn at the top left front edge at the neckband.
Pick up and sc 44 sts evenly down the left front edge from neckband to hem. Turn. (44 sc)
Rows 1 through 4: Ch 1, sc in BL of each st across. Turn. (44 sc each row)
Fasten off.
Finishing Your Baby Cardigan
Weave in all remaining ends securely.
Blocking: Wet block your cardigan by submerging it in cool water, gently squeezing out excess moisture without wringing, and laying flat on a blocking board. Pin the body to the finished dimensions and allow to dry completely, approximately 24 hours. This step really makes the bobbles pop and gives the ribbing that professional finish.
Buttons: Sew on 5 wooden buttons to the left front button band, aligning each button precisely to its corresponding buttonhole. Sew through both layers of the band with yarn or strong thread for security. Knot firmly on the wrong side.
Underarm gaps: If any gaps appear at the underarm joins, close them neatly with the tail left from joining by working a few whipstitches across the gap on the wrong side.
Size Customization Tips
For 12 to 18 months: Start with 70 sts on the neckband pickup row and work 9 increase rows instead of 8, giving 142 sts before dividing. Add 2 to 4 extra plain sc rows before beginning bobbles.
For 18 to 24 months: Start with 74 sts on the neckband pickup row and work 10 increase rows, giving 154 sts before dividing. Add 4 plain sc rows before the bobble section and 6 extra rounds on the sleeves.
To add length without changing width: Add extra plain sc rows between the yoke transition and the first bobble row, or add an additional full repeat of the 4-row bobble section before the ribbed hem.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with a gentle wool wash. Do not wring. Lay flat to dry, reshaping gently. If your yarn is superwash treated, you can machine wash on a delicate cold cycle in a mesh bag. Do not tumble dry. Avoid ironing directly on the bobbles since heat will flatten the texture. Light steam blocking with a damp cloth works well between wears if needed.
You Did It!
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I hope you love making this bobble stitch baby cardigan as much as I loved designing it. There’s something really satisfying about watching those little bobbles appear row after row, and the finished cardigan makes such a thoughtful handmade gift.
I would absolutely love to see your finished cardigans! Tag me on Instagram or share your photos in my Facebook group. Seeing your creations in different colors and yarns is honestly one of the best parts of sharing patterns.
If this pattern is going on your to-make list, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you’re ready to cast on. And if you make it, please come back and leave a comment below. I read every single one, and your feedback helps other crafters decide if this is the right project for them. Happy crocheting!
