Last summer, my niece came running through the garden chasing butterflies, and all I could think was how desperately she needed an outfit as bright and cheerful as she was. I dug through my yarn stash that night, pulled out some golden yellow DK weight, and started sketching sunflowers on a napkin. What came next became one of my favorite toddler patterns I have ever designed.
This sunny two-piece set combines everything I love about granny squares with the joy of making something a little one will actually want to wear. The cropped bell-sleeve top paired with the flowy A-line skirt creates the sweetest warm-weather outfit. And those sunflower motifs? They are honestly simpler than they look, I promise.
If you have been wanting to try garment construction but feel nervous about shaping, this pattern is perfect for you. The entire set is built from identical sunflower squares joined together. No complicated increases, no confusing armhole shaping. Just beautiful motifs, smart assembly, and a finished piece that looks like it took way more skill than it actually requires.
Why You Will Love This Sunflower Crochet Pattern
This toddler outfit hits all the right notes for summer crafting. The sunflower granny square motif creates instant visual impact with its teal petals and brown center popping against the golden yellow background. Each motif takes only 15 to 20 minutes to complete, making this a perfect project for working in small sessions.
The construction method is straightforward even if you have never made a garment before. You will crochet 30 identical squares, block them, join them into panels, and assemble the pieces. The flat join method creates nearly invisible seams on the right side, so your finished garment looks polished and professional.
Both pieces feature charming scalloped edging at the hems and cuffs. This delicate finishing touch elevates the entire design from simple to stunning. The skirt includes an elasticized waistband that is comfortable for active toddlers and makes dressing easy for caregivers.
Skill Level and Time Commitment
I would rate this pattern as intermediate level. You should feel comfortable with magic rings, working in the round, and reading granny square construction before starting. That said, if you have made a few basic granny squares and understand how joining works, you can absolutely handle this project.
Plan for approximately 18 to 24 hours of total crochet time. The top takes roughly 10 to 12 hours, and the skirt requires 8 to 10 hours. Breaking this into motif-making sessions makes the project feel manageable. I like to crochet squares while watching TV, then do the assembly work during focused crafting time.
Finished Measurements
This pattern fits toddlers size 2T to 3T with notes included for 4T adjustments.
Top:
Skirt:
Each finished motif measures 3.5 inches (9 cm) square when blocked. Gauge is critical for this garment, so please make a test motif before diving in.
Materials Needed
Yarn:
Hook: US size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions
Lion Brand Yarn Comfy Cotton Blend in Golden Rod, Teal, and Chocolate works beautifully for this project. The DK weight blend offers excellent stitch definition and is machine washable, which is essential for children’s garments.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in Daffodil Yellow, Spearmint, and Coffee Bean is a budget-friendly alternative. This 100% acrylic yarn maintains color vibrancy through repeated washing.
Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash in Sun, Teal, and Mocha gives the motifs beautiful drape if you prefer working with wool. Any DK weight yarn that achieves gauge will work. Just avoid yarns with high halo or textured plies, as these obscure the motif detail.
Gauge
One sunflower motif, blocked = 3.5 inches (9 cm) square
12 single crochet stitches = 4 inches (10 cm)
10 rows of single crochet = 4 inches (10 cm)
Even a small deviation in gauge will affect the joined dimensions significantly. Work a test motif, block it, and measure before beginning. Adjust your hook size up or down as needed.
Abbreviations Used
Let me walk you through the abbreviations you will encounter. If you are newer to pattern reading, refer back to this list as needed.
Throughout this pattern, the chain 3 at the beginning of double crochet rounds counts as the first double crochet.
Special Stitches and Techniques
Sunflower Granny Square Motif
This beautiful motif is the building block of your entire outfit. You will work it in four rounds from the center outward, never turning between rounds.
Round 1 (Brown Center):
With Color C, make a magic ring.
Chain 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout).
Work 11 dc into the magic ring.
Slip stitch to top of beginning chain-3 to join.
Pull ring closed firmly.
(12 dc)
Round 2 (Teal Petals):
Join Color B in any stitch with a slip stitch.
Chain 1.
In the same stitch: work 1 sc, then chain 3, then 1 sc (this creates the first petal point).
In the next stitch: work 1 sc, chain 3, 1 sc.
Repeat the sequence (1 sc, chain 3, 1 sc) in each of the remaining 10 stitches around.
Slip stitch to first sc to join.
(12 petals, each consisting of 2 sc and 1 ch-3 arch)
Round 3 (Yellow Square Foundation):
Join Color A in any ch-3 petal arch with a slip stitch.
Chain 3 (counts as first dc).
Work 2 more dc in the same ch-3 arch. (first cluster of 3 dc)
Chain 2 (corner chain-space).
Work 3 dc in the same arch. (second cluster of 3 dc, corner made)
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in the next petal arch.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in the next petal arch.
Chain 2 (corner).
Work 3 dc in the same arch.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in the next arch.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in the next arch.
Chain 2 (corner).
Work 3 dc in the same arch.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in the next arch.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in the next arch.
Chain 2 (corner).
Work 3 dc in the same arch.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in the next arch.
Chain 1.
Slip stitch to top of beginning chain-3 to join.
(Four corners with ch-2 sp; three clusters of 3 dc on each side between corners; ch-1 sp between clusters)
Round 4 (Yellow Border):
Slip stitch across to first ch-2 corner sp.
Chain 3 (counts as first dc).
Work 2 dc, chain 2, 3 dc all in the same corner ch-2 sp. (corner made)
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in next ch-1 sp.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in next ch-1 sp.
Chain 1.
Work corner (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 corner sp.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in next ch-1 sp.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in next ch-1 sp.
Chain 1.
Work corner in next ch-2 corner sp.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in next ch-1 sp.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in next ch-1 sp.
Chain 1.
Work corner in next ch-2 corner sp.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in next ch-1 sp.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc in next ch-1 sp.
Chain 1.
Slip stitch to top of beginning chain-3 to join. Fasten off Color A.
(Four corner ch-2 sp; four dc-clusters on each side between corners)
Each completed motif has four sides. Each side reads: 3 dc cluster, ch-1, 3 dc cluster, ch-1, 3 dc cluster, ch-1, with corner ch-2 sp at each end.
Flat Join Method
This joining technique creates beautiful, nearly invisible seams. Place two motifs with right sides facing up and edges together. Thread your yarn needle with Color A. Bring the needle up through the corner ch-2 sp of both motifs simultaneously. Insert the needle down through the next ch-1 sp of both motifs. Continue whipstitching through each corresponding space and cluster top along the entire edge, working into both layers. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Always join with right sides facing up, not together. This creates a flat ridge on the wrong side.
Scallop Edging
This pretty finishing creates the decorative hem on all edges.
Step 1: Join Color A with sl st in any corner sp or first stitch of the edge.
Step 2: Chain 1.
Step 3: Work 1 sc in the same sp.
Step 4: Skip 2 stitches or spaces.
Step 5: Work 5 dc in the next st or sp. (shell made)
Step 6: Skip 2 stitches or spaces.
Step 7: Work 1 sc in the next st or sp.
Step 8: Repeat steps 4 through 7 across the edge.
Step 9: At corners, work the sc in the corner sp, then continue the pattern along the next side.
Step 10: Slip stitch to first sc to join at end of round. Fasten off.
The scallop pattern uses a repeat of 6 stitches or spaces. The motif construction in this pattern naturally creates edge stitch counts divisible by 6.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. Work all motifs individually first, then join them. Complete all motifs for one garment piece before joining.
2. Weave in all color ends on each motif before joining panels. This avoids struggling with buried ends inside joined seams.
3. Block every motif before joining. Unblocked motifs will pull and distort the joined panels. Wet block by misting with water, pinning to 3.5 x 3.5 inch squares on blocking mats, and allowing to dry fully.
4. When counting motifs for placement, lay them on a flat surface in the configuration described before joining. Use stitch markers to hold the arrangement.
5. When changing colors between rounds, always join the new color with a slip stitch, leaving a 6-inch tail for weaving.
Motif Quantity Guide
Make the following quantity of motifs before beginning assembly:
Total motifs: 30
For 4T size, make 2 additional motifs for the top (1 for front, 1 for back, adding one column to each) and 2 additional motifs for the skirt (adding one motif to each row, giving 8 across by 2 tall = 16 motifs for the skirt). Total for 4T: 36 motifs.
Top Construction
Front Panel Assembly
Lay 6 motifs in a 2-wide by 3-tall grid on your blocking mat. The top row becomes the shoulder and neckline edge. The bottom row becomes the hem edge.
Join Row 1 (bottom row): Place the two bottom motifs side by side with RS facing up. Using the Flat Join method, join them along their shared vertical edge. (1 seam, producing a 2-motif-wide strip)
Join Row 2 (middle row): Join the two middle motifs the same way. (1 seam)
Join Row 3 (top row): Join the two top motifs the same way. (1 seam)
Join horizontal seams: With all three strips assembled, place the bottom strip and middle strip together, aligning the top edge of the bottom strip with the bottom edge of the middle strip. Flat Join across this horizontal seam. (1 horizontal seam spanning 2 motif widths)
Attach the top strip to the top of the middle strip the same way. (1 horizontal seam spanning 2 motif widths)
Front panel complete: 2 motifs wide by 3 motifs tall, approximately 7 inches (18 cm) wide by 10.5 inches (26.5 cm) tall before edging.
Back Panel Assembly
Repeat the Front Panel Assembly instructions exactly for the back panel using the remaining 6 top motifs. Your back panel will match your front panel dimensions.
Sleeve Assembly
Each sleeve is a strip of 3 motifs joined end to end vertically (1 wide by 3 tall).
Right Sleeve: Flat Join 3 motifs vertically, one on top of the other. (2 horizontal seams)
Left Sleeve: Repeat for left sleeve.
Each sleeve strip measures approximately 3.5 inches (9 cm) wide by 10.5 inches (26.5 cm) tall.
Fold each sleeve strip in half lengthwise so the short edge of the strip (3.5 inches) becomes the cuff opening and the folded top edge will attach to the armhole.
Flat Join the two long edges of each sleeve together, leaving the top 3.5-inch edge open (armhole attachment) and the bottom 3.5-inch edge open (cuff opening).
Each finished sleeve tube is approximately 3.5 inches (9 cm) in circumference and 5.25 inches (13 cm) long before cuff edging.
Body Assembly
Place the front and back panels with right sides facing up and shoulder edges at the top.
Join left shoulder seam: Using Flat Join, connect the top-left motif of the front panel to the top-left motif of the back panel along their top edges. Join only the outermost 1 motif width (3.5 inches) on each side, leaving the center 3.5 inches open as the neckline opening for a 2-motif-wide neckline (approximately 7 inches or 18 cm wide).
Join right shoulder seam: Repeat on the right side.
Join side seams: With RS facing up, align the side edges of the front and back panels. Flat Join the left side seam from hem edge up to 3.5 inches below the shoulder seam, leaving the top 3.5 inches open as the armhole. Repeat for the right side seam.
Each armhole opening is 3.5 inches (9 cm) tall and 3.5 inches (9 cm) wide.
Attach sleeves: Insert a sleeve tube into each armhole opening from the outside, aligning the open top edge of the sleeve with the armhole edges. Pin in place. Using Color A and a yarn needle, whipstitch the sleeve to the armhole edge around the full opening.
Top Neckline Edging
Join Color A with sl st at any point along the neckline opening.
Round 1: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each dc, 1 sc in each ch-1 sp, and 2 sc in each corner ch-2 sp around the neckline opening. Slip stitch to first sc to join. Adjust to reach 30 sts by adding or skipping 1 sc at the back corner joins if needed.
(30 sc)
Round 2 (Scallop Edging): Work Scallop Edging across all 30 stitches. Repeat sequence: sc, skip 2, 5-dc shell, skip 2. This fits 5 complete scallops.
(5 shells, 5 sc)
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Top Hem Edging
Join Color A with sl st at any point along the bottom hem edge of the joined front and back panels.
Round 1: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch-sp around the bottom hem. At side seam join points, work 1 sc through both layers. Slip stitch to first sc to join. Adjust to 84 sts.
(84 sc)
Round 2 (Scallop Edging): Work Scallop Edging across all 84 stitches. 84 divided by 6 = 14 complete scallops.
(14 shells, 14 sc)
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Sleeve Cuff Edging
Join Color A with sl st at any point along the open cuff edge of one sleeve tube.
Round 1: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each dc and ch-sp around the cuff opening. Slip stitch to first sc to join. Adjust to 24 sts.
(24 sc)
Round 2 (Scallop Edging): Work Scallop Edging across all 24 stitches. 24 divided by 6 = 4 complete scallops.
(4 shells, 4 sc)
Fasten off. Weave in end. Repeat for second sleeve.
Top is complete. Your finished top should measure approximately 20 inches (51 cm) in chest circumference and 10 inches (25.5 cm) from shoulder to hem.
Skirt Construction
Panel Assembly
Lay 12 motifs in a 6-wide by 2-tall grid. The top row becomes the waistband edge. The bottom row becomes the hem edge.
Join Row 1 (bottom row): Flat Join the 6 bottom motifs side by side, creating 5 vertical seams. (5 seams, producing 1 strip 6 motifs wide)
Join Row 2 (top row): Flat Join the 6 top motifs side by side the same way. (5 seams)
Join horizontal seam: Flat Join the top edge of the bottom strip to the bottom edge of the top strip. (1 horizontal seam spanning 6 motif widths)
Flat panel complete: 6 motifs wide (approximately 21 inches or 53 cm) by 2 motifs tall (approximately 7 inches or 18 cm before waistband and hem edging).
Fold the panel so the two short side edges meet. Flat Join these two edges to create the side seam of the skirt tube. (1 vertical seam, 2 motifs tall)
Skirt Waistband
Join Color A with sl st at any point along the top edge of the skirt tube.
Round 1: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each dc and ch-sp around the top edge. Slip stitch to first sc to join. Adjust to 126 sts.
(126 sc)
Rounds 2 through 8: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each sc around. Slip stitch to first sc to join. Work in BLO for Round 2 only to create a fold ridge. Rounds 3 through 8 work through both loops normally.
(126 sc each round)
Round 9: This round creates the elastic channel fold. Do not fasten off after Round 8. Fold the waistband to the wrong side along the BLO ridge created in Round 2. Working through both the current live stitches and the corresponding stitches of Round 1 simultaneously, work 1 sl st in each st around to close the channel, leaving a 2-inch (5 cm) opening for elastic insertion.
(126 sl st)
Fasten off, leaving the 2-inch opening unsewn until elastic is inserted.
Elastic Insertion
Cut elastic to 20 inches (51 cm) for 2T-3T or 22 inches (56 cm) for 4T. Thread elastic through the waistband channel using a safety pin. Overlap elastic ends by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and hand stitch securely together. Distribute gathers evenly around the waistband. Slip stitch the remaining 2-inch opening of the waistband channel closed. Weave in end.
Skirt Hem Edging
Join Color A with sl st at any point along the bottom hem edge of the skirt tube.
Round 1: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each dc and ch-sp around the bottom hem. Slip stitch to first sc to join. Adjust to 126 sts.
(126 sc)
Round 2 (Scallop Edging): Work Scallop Edging across all 126 stitches. 126 divided by 6 = 21 complete scallops.
(21 shells, 21 sc)
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Skirt is complete. Your finished skirt should measure approximately 18 inches (46 cm) in waist circumference unstretched and 9 inches (23 cm) from waistband top to hem bottom.
Size Customization Tips
For 2T (smaller end): Work motifs with a hook one size smaller (US D-3 / 3.25 mm) to bring each motif to 3.25 inches. All motif counts remain the same. Reduce elastic length by 1 inch.
For 4T (larger end): Add one motif column to front and back panels (making each 3 motifs wide instead of 2), and add one motif to each row of the skirt (8 across instead of 6). Adjust all edging stitch counts accordingly. Increase elastic length by 2 inches.
For 5T: Add two motif columns to each garment panel. Increase elastic by 3 inches. Ensure final edging counts remain divisible by 6 before working scallop edging.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all remaining ends using a yarn needle. For security, weave each tail in at least two directions through surrounding stitches.
Fill a basin with cool water and submerge the garment pieces fully. Allow to soak for 15 to 20 minutes without agitating. Remove gently without wringing. Press out excess water by rolling the garment in a dry towel and pressing firmly.
Lay each piece flat on blocking mats. Pin the top at the shoulder seams, underarms, hem corners, and center front and back to the stated dimensions. Pin sleeves to their stated length and width. Pin the skirt to stated circumference and length.
Allow to dry completely, which may take 12 to 24 hours depending on yarn fiber and humidity. Once dry, remove pins. The scallop edging may be lightly steamed on appropriate fiber types to set the scallop points into crisp definition.
Care Instructions
Machine wash on gentle cycle in cool water using mild laundry detergent formulated for delicates. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, as heat may shrink or distort the motifs. Do not bleach. Do not iron directly. If smoothing is needed, use a pressing cloth and low steam setting. Store folded flat or rolled, not hung, to prevent stretching.
You Did It!
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. I truly hope your little one lights up when they see this sunny outfit. There is nothing quite like the feeling of putting handmade clothes on a child and watching them twirl.
If you make this sunflower two-piece set, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share in our Facebook group. Seeing your creations makes my whole week.
I hope you love making this cheerful toddler crochet pattern as much as I loved designing it. If you want to find it easily later, save this post to your favorite Pinterest board. And please drop a comment below if you give it a try. I read every single one and always love hearing how your projects turn out!
