Orchid Bloom Crochet Shorts Free Crochet Pattern

These are crochet shorts. High-waisted, boyshort style, worked in single crochet from the top down. The main body is cream with pink scallop trim at the waist, pink edging at the legs, a green drawstring threaded through eyelets, and a dimensional orchid flower on the front right hip. If you can single crochet in the round and follow basic shaping, you can make these.

The construction is straightforward. You start with a tube, work down to the hip area, then divide for the leg openings. The fancy bits like the scallop edging and the orchid applique are added at the end.

I love how cottage-core sweet these turned out. They are perfect for summer days, beach cover-ups, or just lounging around feeling cute. Let me walk you through exactly how to make them.

Materials You Will Need

Before you start, gather everything so you are not hunting for supplies mid-project.

Yarn (DK weight, also called light worsted or number 3 weight):

Main Color (MC): Cream or off-white, approximately 380 yards

Color A (CA): Soft pink, approximately 80 yards

Color B (CB): Sage or medium green, approximately 60 yards

Color C (CC): White or pale cream, approximately 15 yards (for orchid petals)

Color D (CD): Medium pink, approximately 10 yards (for orchid center details)

Color E (CE): Bright yellow, approximately 3 yards (for orchid center)

Hooks:

US size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook (main hook)

US size D-3 / 3.25 mm (optional, for tighter edging)

Notions:

Yarn needle

Scissors

At least 4 stitch markers

Rust-proof pins for blocking

Measuring tape

Yarn suggestions: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK works beautifully for this project. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton DK is another great option if you want that crisp cotton feel for warm weather. Just note that cotton has less stretch than acrylic, so check your gauge carefully.

Gauge

20 stitches x 22 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches in single crochet, worked in the round with your E-4 hook and main color yarn.

Gauge matters here because this is a garment. If your swatch is too big, go down a hook size. Too small, go up. Taking ten minutes to swatch will save you from making shorts that do not fit.

Finished Measurements

This pattern is written for size Small/Medium (US 4/6):

Waist circumference (relaxed): 26 inches, stretches to approximately 32 inches

Hip circumference: 36 inches

Total rise (waistband to crotch): 10 inches

Inseam depth: approximately 1.5 inches

Leg opening: 22 inches per leg

Size customization tips are included at the end if you need to adjust.

Abbreviations

Let me define every stitch abbreviation you will see in this crochet pattern. If you are newer to crochet, bookmark this section.

ch = chain (wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop)

sl st = slip stitch (insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion)

sc = single crochet (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)

hdc = half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops)

dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops)

sk = skip

st(s) = stitch(es)

sp(s) = space(s)

RS = right side

WS = wrong side

BLO = back loop only

rep = repeat

pm = place marker

inc = increase (work 2 sc in the same stitch)

sc2tog = single crochet two together, which is a decrease (insert hook in next stitch, pull up loop, insert hook in following stitch, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops)

rnd(s) = round(s)

yo = yarn over

Special Stitches Explained

Scallop Stitch

This creates the pink wavy trim at the waistband. Here is how it works:

1. Join your pink yarn to any stitch at the edge

2. Chain 1, single crochet in the same stitch

3. Skip 2 stitches

4. Work 5 double crochets all in the next stitch (this makes one scallop shell)

5. Skip 2 stitches

6. Single crochet in the next stitch

7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 around

The pattern is designed so your stitch count divides evenly by 6, which means your scallops will work out perfectly.

Eyelet Round

This creates the holes for your drawstring:

1. Chain 3 (counts as double crochet plus chain 1 space)

2. Skip 1 stitch, double crochet in the next stitch

3. Chain 1, skip 1 stitch, double crochet in the next stitch

4. Repeat step 3 around

You end up with evenly spaced holes all the way around.

Pattern Notes Before You Begin

Read these before starting. They will save you confusion later.

1. The shorts are worked in the round from the top down. You start at the waist and work toward the legs.

2. Do not turn at the end of rounds unless the pattern tells you to. Use a stitch marker to track where each round begins.

3. The chain 1 at the beginning of each round does NOT count as a stitch.

4. When changing colors, cut the yarn and rejoin unless told otherwise.

5. The decorative scallop edging and the orchid are added after the main body is complete.

Step by Step Crochet Pattern Instructions

Section 1: Waistband and Upper Body

Using MC and your E-4 hook, chain 181. Without twisting the chain, slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc in each ch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (180 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (180 sc)

Working in the back loop only here creates a subtle fold line at the waistband. The front loops you skip will be used later for the scallop edging.

Rounds 3-4: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (180 sc)

Round 5 (Eyelet Round for Drawstring): Ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip 1 st, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st) around, ending ch 1, join with sl st to 2nd ch of starting ch-3. (90 dc, 90 ch-1 spaces)

Round 6: Ch 1, sc in each dc and sc in each ch-1 sp around. Join. (180 sc)

Work one single crochet into each double crochet AND one single crochet into each chain space. This brings you back to 180 stitches.

Rounds 7-18: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (180 sc)

Checkpoint: Your tube should measure approximately 4 inches from the foundation chain and be about 36 inches around.

Section 2: Hip Area

Continue working even rounds. No shaping here because the drawstring handles the waist cinching.

Rounds 19-26: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (180 sc)

Checkpoint: Your tube should now measure approximately 5.5 to 6 inches from the foundation chain.

Section 3: Crotch Division and Leg Shaping

Now you will divide the tube into front and back panels to create the leg openings.

Mark your stitches: Count 90 stitches and place a marker at stitch 1 (front center left) and another at stitch 90 (front center right). Stitches 1 through 90 are your Front Panel. Stitches 91 through 180 are your Back Panel.

Front Panel

You will now work flat, turning at the end of each row.

Row 1 (RS): Join MC at stitch 1 if needed. Ch 1, sc in each of the next 90 sts. Turn. (90 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (90 sc)

Row 3 (begin crotch shaping): Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (88 sc)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (86 sc)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (84 sc)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (82 sc)

Rows 7-8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (82 sc)

Now split for the two leg portions.

Left Leg Front (stitches 1-41):

Row 9L: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 41 sts. Turn. (41 sc)

Row 10L: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (40 sc)

Row 11L: Ch 1, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (39 sc)

Row 12L: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (39 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for seaming.

Right Leg Front (stitches 42-82):

Rejoin MC at stitch 42 of Row 8.

Row 9R: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 41 sts. Turn. (41 sc)

Row 10R: Ch 1, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (40 sc)

Row 11R: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (39 sc)

Row 12R: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (39 sc)

Fasten off.

Back Panel

Rejoin MC at stitch 91, RS facing.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each of the 90 back panel sts. Turn. (90 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (90 sc)

Rows 3-6: Work the same decreases as the front panel, ending with (82 sc)

Rows 7-8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (82 sc)

Left Leg Back: Work Rows 9LB through 12LB the same as Left Leg Front, ending with (39 sc)

Right Leg Back: Work Rows 9RB through 12RB the same as Right Leg Front, ending with (39 sc)

Section 4: Seaming the Leg Inseams

Using your yarn needle and MC, seam the left front leg panel to the left back leg panel along their shaped edges. Use mattress stitch or slip stitch seam with right sides together. Join from the crotch point down to the bottom of each leg. Repeat for the right leg. Turn right side out.

Checkpoint: Each leg opening should be a smooth oval shape. The crotch should lie flat. Total rise should measure approximately 9.5 to 10 inches.

Section 5: Leg Edging

Work this for each leg opening.

Using CA (pink), join with sl st at the inseam of one leg opening, RS facing.

Round 1: Ch 1, work sc evenly around the leg opening, approximately 90 sc. Join. (90 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (90 sc)

Round 3: Sl st in each st around. Join and fasten off. (90 sl sts)

Repeat for the second leg.

Section 6: Waistband Scallop Edging

Turn the shorts so the top edge faces you, RS facing. Join CA to any front loop of the top edge (those loops you left when you worked Round 2 in BLO).

Scallop Round: Ch 1, sc in same st. (Skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st) around. Join with sl st to first sc.

You will have exactly 30 scallops. Fasten off CA.

Section 7: Green Drawstring Cord

Using CB (green) and your E-4 hook, make a chain approximately 60 inches long. Slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain back to create a firm cord. Fasten off and weave in ends.

For bilateral ties (like the photo shows): Cut the cord in half to make two 30-inch cords. Thread each cord through half of the eyelet round so one end emerges at each side. Knot the ends to prevent fraying and tie in small bows.

Section 8: Green Surface Detail

The green vine detail visible between the scallop edging and the body is created with surface embroidery.

Using CB and a yarn needle, work a running chain stitch along the top of Round 6 (the solid round just below the eyelet round). Insert the needle through every second stitch, creating small elongated loops on the right side. Alternate over and under to create a dashed vine-like line around the shorts.

Orchid Applique

The orchid has three layers: back petals, front petals, and a center cluster. Work each piece separately.

Back Petals (CC, white/pale cream)

Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, 10 sc in ring. Join. (10 sc)

Round 2: (Ch 10, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in last ch, sl st in next st of Round 1) 5 times. (5 petals)

Fasten off, leaving a tail.

Front Petals (CA, pink)

Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in ring. Join. (6 sc)

Round 2: (Ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next ch, sl st in last ch, sl st in next st of Round 1) 3 times. (3 petals)

Fasten off.

Center Cluster

Using CD (medium pink), ch 4, sl st to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in ring. Join. (6 sc)

Change to CE (yellow). Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sl st back in first ch, sc) in each sc around. Join. Fasten off.

Assembling the Orchid

Layer the white back petals flat. Center the pink front petals on top, rotating slightly so pink petals peek between white petals. Place the center cluster in the middle.

Stitch all three layers together through their centers. Sew the completed orchid to the front right hip, approximately 1.5 inches below the drawstring row and slightly right of center. Whipstitch around the back petal layer to secure it, but leave the front petals and center unstitched to preserve the 3D dimension.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends, running each tail through at least 1 inch of stitches in two directions

2. Check all seams and reinforce any gaps at the crotch

3. Attach your orchid

4. Thread drawstring through eyelets

5. Block your shorts

Blocking

Fill a basin with cool water and submerge the shorts for 15 to 20 minutes. Gently press out excess water without wringing. Roll in a clean towel to absorb more moisture. Lay flat on a blocking mat, pin to measurements if needed, and allow to dry completely.

Size Customization Tips

To size up: Add stitches to your foundation chain in multiples of 6. For a Large (US 10/12), use a foundation chain of 205, adjusting to 204 stitches for a 40-inch hip circumference.

To size down: Reduce foundation chain in multiples of 6. For XS (US 0/2), use 156 stitches for a 31-inch hip.

To add length: Work additional plain sc rounds between Round 18 and the crotch division.

To adjust inseam depth: Work more or fewer even rows in Rows 7-8 before splitting for the legs.

Care Instructions

Machine wash gentle cycle in cold water, or hand wash. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, iron, or dry clean.

I hope you love making these orchid bloom crochet shorts as much as I loved designing them. They are such a fun project with all those little details that make them special. Thank you for trusting me with your crafting time.

If you make a pair, I would absolutely love to see them. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your finished projects is genuinely the best part of my day.

Go ahead and save this crochet pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And if you make these beauties, please drop a comment below. I read every single one and love hearing how your projects turn out.