This pattern is an ABSOLUTE SHOWSTOPPER and I cannot wait to share it with you! Seriously, if you want to create something that looks like it belongs in a boutique window, this is the project. The two-tone design with that gorgeous shell stitch skirt and those sweet daisy appliques? Pure magic in your hands.
Now, I will be honest with you. This is not a one-evening project. Plan for about 18 to 25 hours of crochet time depending on your speed. But here is the thing. Every single hour is worth it when you see that finished dress laid out. This makes the most incredible baby shower gift, first birthday outfit, or heirloom piece to pass down through generations.
The construction is actually more straightforward than it looks. You will work the bodice flat in rows, join it together, add those adorable ruffled cap sleeves, then work the skirt in the round from the waist down. The daisy appliques are made separately and sewn on at the end. Let me walk you through every single step.
About This Crochet Pattern
This charming baby dress combines a cream bodice worked in solid single crochet with a rust-terracotta lace skirt featuring a shell-and-fan stitch pattern. The bodice has a square neckline, ruffled cap sleeves trimmed in terracotta, and a front button band running vertically down the center. A terracotta waistband threads through eyelets at the waist and ties into a bow with two yarn pom-pom tassels.
The three crocheted daisy flowers with green leaves on the lower left front of the skirt add that perfect finishing touch. The scallop border at the hem gives the whole piece a polished, professional look.
Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced
Finished Size (6 to 12 months):
Materials You Will Need
Yarn (DK weight / light #3):
Hooks:
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions:
Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend in "Porcelain" and "Rust" works beautifully for this project. Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in "Paper White" and "Burnt Red" is a budget-friendly alternative. Whatever you choose, make sure it is machine washable for a baby garment.
Gauge
With primary hook and DK weight yarn:
20 stitches and 22 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in single crochet, blocked.
Please check your gauge before starting. Garment fit depends on accurate measurements. If your swatch is too big, go down a hook size. Too small? Go up a hook size.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me walk you through every abbreviation you will encounter in this pattern:
ch = chain: Yarn over, pull through the loop on your hook. This creates the foundation for most crochet projects.
sl st = slip stitch: Insert hook, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. Used for joining and creating a firm edge.
sc = single crochet: Insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops.
hdc = half double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
dc = double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops.
tr = treble crochet: Yarn over twice, insert hook, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops) three times.
sc2tog = single crochet two together: A decrease. Insert hook in first stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
sk = skip: Pass over the indicated stitch without working into it.
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
rep = repeat
pm = place marker
RS = right side (the side that will face out when worn)
WS = wrong side (the inside of the garment)
yo = yarn over
rnd(s) = round(s)
t-ch = turning chain
Special Stitches for This Pattern
Shell Stitch: Work 5 dc all into the same stitch or space. This creates one shell unit and gives the skirt its beautiful lacy texture.
Fan Stitch: Work 7 dc all into the same stitch or space. Used for the decorative hem border.
Scallop Edging: In each designated stitch, work: sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc. This creates those lovely ruffled edges on the sleeves.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st into the first ch of the ch-3. Creates a small decorative loop.
How to Make Pom-Pom Tassels
Wrap yarn around a 1.5-inch piece of cardboard approximately 30 times. Slide off the cardboard carefully. Tie a separate 8-inch strand of yarn tightly around the center of the bundle. Cut the loops on both ends. Trim to create a round pom-pom approximately 1 inch in diameter. Use the tie strand to attach to the waistband cord.
Pattern Instructions
Section 1: Bodice Back Panel
The back bodice is one flat piece worked in rows in Color A.
Foundation: Using Color A and primary hook, ch 47.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (46 sc)
Row 2 (RS): Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (46 sc)
Rows 3 through 4: Rep Row 2. (46 sc)
Row 5 (armhole shaping): Sc in first 10 sts, ch 1, sk 6, sc in next 14 sts, ch 1, sk 6, sc in last 10 sts. Ch 1, turn. (34 sc + 2 ch-1 sp)
Row 6: Sc in each st and ch-1 sp across. Ch 1, turn. (46 sc)
Rows 7 through 30: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (46 sc per row)
Do not fasten off. Set aside.
After completing this section, your piece should measure approximately 9.2 inches wide and 6 inches tall when blocked.
Section 2: Bodice Front Panel
The front bodice consists of two mirrored panels with the button band integrated.
Right Front Panel:
Foundation: Using Color A and primary hook, ch 25.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
Rows 2 through 4: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
Row 5 (armhole shaping): Sc in first 10 sts, ch 1, sk 6, sc in next 8 sts. Ch 1, turn. (18 sc + 1 ch-1 sp)
Row 6: Sc across including into ch-1 sp. Ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
Rows 7 through 30: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (24 sc per row)
Fasten off Color A. Set aside.
Left Front Panel:
Foundation: Using Color A and primary hook, ch 25.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
Rows 2 through 4: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
Row 5 (armhole shaping): Sc in first 8 sts, ch 1, sk 6, sc in last 10 sts. Ch 1, turn. (18 sc + 1 ch-1 sp)
Row 6: Sc across including into ch-1 sp. Ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
Rows 7 through 30: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (24 sc per row)
Fasten off Color A. Set aside.
Section 3: Assemble Bodice and Button Band
Place right front panel and left front panel side by side, RS facing up, with center front edges meeting at the middle.
Right Front Button Band:
Join Color B at the lower right center front edge.
Row 1: Working up the right front center edge, sc evenly along the edge, placing 1 sc per row end. (30 sc) Ch 1, turn.
Row 2 (buttonhole row): Sc 2, (ch 2, sk 2, sc 4) 4 times, ch 2, sk 2, sc 2. Ch 1, turn. This places 5 buttonholes evenly spaced. (30 sts including ch-2 sps)
Row 3: Sc in each st and 2 sc into each ch-2 sp across. Ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
Fasten off Color B.
Left Front Button Band:
Join Color B at the top left center front edge.
Row 1: Sc evenly down the left front center edge, 1 sc per row end. (30 sc) Ch 1, turn.
Rows 2 through 3: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
Fasten off Color B.
Joining the Bodice:
Using Color B and primary hook, sl st the right front panel to the back panel at the right shoulder, matching row ends. Work approximately 8 sl sts across the shoulder width.
Repeat for left shoulder.
Using Color B, sl st the right front panel to the back panel at the right side seam from armhole down to waist. Repeat for left side seam.
Leave the center back open from the top down for approximately 3 inches to allow the garment to be put on easily.
Section 4: Neckline Edging
Join Color B at the center back neckline with smaller hook (US D-3 / 3.25 mm).
Round 1: Work sc evenly around the entire neckline edge, placing 1 sc per row end on vertical edges and 1 sc per stitch along horizontal edges. Work 3 sc into each corner stitch to keep the neckline square and flat. Join with sl st to first sc. (approximately 70 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, working 3 sc in each corner sc. Join with sl st. (approximately 78 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, working 3 sc in each corner. Sl st to join. Fasten off Color B. (approximately 86 sc)
Weave in all ends at the neckline.
Section 5: Cap Sleeves
Each armhole has approximately 26 stitches available around its perimeter.
Right Sleeve:
Join Color B at the underarm of the right armhole with primary hook, RS facing.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around armhole opening. Work 26 sc total. Do not join.
Mark the last stitch. Turn.
Row 1 (ruffle base): Ch 1, 2 sc in next 23 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Ch 1, turn. (49 sc)
Row 2 (scallop): Ch 1, (sc in next st, hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sk 1, sk 1) rep across until 7 complete scallops. Fasten off Color B. (7 scallop repeats)
Repeat for left sleeve.
Section 6: Waist Eyelet Round
With the assembled bodice RS facing, join Color B at the right side seam at the bottom waist edge with primary hook.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around the entire waist edge of the bodice. Join with sl st. (approximately 92 sc)
Round 2 (eyelet round): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), sk 1, (dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1) around to last st, dc in last st, ch 1, sl st to top of t-ch. (46 dc + 46 ch-1 sps)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around. Join with sl st. (92 sc)
Fasten off Color B.
Section 7: Skirt
The skirt is worked in the round from the waist down in Color B.
Join Color B at the center back waist with primary hook.
Increase Section:
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (92 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep around, ending with sc in last 2 sts. Join. (122 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (122 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep around, ending with 2 extra sc. Join. (152 sc)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (152 sc)
Round 6: Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep around, ending with sc in last 2 sts. Join. (182 sc)
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (182 sc)
Round 8 (adjustment): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 1 st, sl st to first adjusted sc to join. Decrease 2 sts evenly, one at each side seam position. (180 sc)
This gives you exactly 15 repeats of the 12-stitch lace pattern.
Lace Shell Section:
The lace shell pattern uses a 12-stitch repeat.
Round 9 (first lace round): Ch 1, (sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts) 15 times around. Join with sl st. (30 shells total, 30 sc)
Round 10: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same st (half shell start), (sc in center dc of next shell, 5 dc in next sc, sc in center dc of next shell, 5 dc in next sc) rep 14 times, sc in center dc of next shell, 5 dc in next sc, sc in center dc of last shell, 2 dc in same as first t-ch. Sl st to top of t-ch. (180 sts)
Rounds 11 through 28: Rep Round 10 pattern, alternating shell positions every round. (180 sts per round)
This creates approximately 8 inches of skirt lace length.
Section 8: Hem Scallop Border
Round 29: Ch 1, sc in every sc around from Round 28, skip the dc sts between. Join with sl st. (30 sc)
Round 30 (fan hem): Ch 1, (7 dc in next sc, sc in next sc) 15 times around. Join with sl st. (15 fans of 7 dc + 15 sc)
Round 31 (scallop finish): Ch 1, (sc in first dc of fan, hdc in next dc, dc in next dc, tr in center dc of fan, dc in next dc, hdc in next dc, sc in last dc of fan, sl st in sc between fans) 15 times around. Join. Fasten off Color B.
Section 9: Waistband Cord
Using Color B and primary hook, ch 120. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch back to start to form a firm cord. (119 sl sts, total cord length approximately 20 inches)
Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail on each end.
Thread the cord through the eyelet round at the waist, beginning and ending at the center front.
Attach one pom-pom to each cord tail end.
Tie the cord in a bow at the center front.
Section 10: Daisy Appliques
Daisy Flower (make 3):
Using Color C (white):
Round 1: Magic ring, ch 1, work 10 sc into the ring, sl st to first sc to join. (10 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, (sc, ch 8, sl st back down the ch starting in 2nd ch from hook: sl st in each of next 7 ch, sc in next st of ring) rep 10 times around, sl st to first sc. (10 petals)
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. With Color B, embroider a small center circle over the magic ring center for the terracotta detail.
Daisy Leaf (make 6 total, 2 per flower):
Using Color D (green):
Foundation: Ch 8.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (7 sc)
Row 2: Sc2tog, sc 3, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
Row 3: Sc2tog, sc 1, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (3 sc)
Row 4: Sc3tog. (1 sc)
Fasten off leaving a tail.
Attaching the Appliques:
Arrange the three daisies in a cluster on the lower left front of the skirt, approximately 2 inches above the hem scallop and 2 inches from the left side seam. Place one larger daisy at the upper left of the cluster and two smaller daisies at lower right, with leaves tucked beneath each flower.
Using a yarn needle and matching yarn tails, sew each flower and leaf to the skirt surface with small whip stitches around the outer edge.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all remaining yarn tails securely on the WS.
Wet block the dress by submerging it in cool water. Gently press out excess water without wringing. Lay flat on a blocking mat. Pin the skirt hem to open the scallops and pin the bodice to dimensions. Allow to dry completely before removing pins.
Sew 5 buttons to the left front button band, aligning them with the buttonholes on the right front band. Space the buttons evenly from the neckline to the waist, with the first button approximately 0.5 inch below the neckline edge and the last button approximately 0.5 inch above the waist.
Finish the center back upper opening edge with Color B: join at top right back corner, work 1 round of sc down the right back edge and up the left back edge for approximately 3 inches on each side. Fasten off and weave in.
Size Customization Tips
To size up to 12 to 18 months: Add 6 sts to the back panel foundation ch (ch 53 instead of ch 47) and 3 sts to each front panel (ch 28 instead of ch 25). Add 4 more rows to the bodice section before the waist. Add 2 more lace rounds to the skirt.
To size up to 2T: Add 12 sts to the back panel foundation ch (ch 59) and 6 sts to each front panel (ch 31). Add 8 rows to the bodice. Add 4 more lace rounds to the skirt.
To size down to 0 to 3 months: Subtract 6 sts from the back panel (ch 41) and 3 sts from each front panel (ch 22). Reduce bodice rows by 4. Reduce skirt lace rounds by 2.
Always recheck that your total waist stitch count after joining remains a multiple of 12 before beginning the lace section.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with a gentle baby-safe detergent. You can also machine wash on a gentle cycle inside a mesh laundry bag if your yarn label permits. Lay flat to dry. Do not wring, tumble dry, or iron directly. Store folded rather than hung to prevent the skirt from stretching over time.
Final Thoughts on This Crochet Tutorial
This Terracotta Daisy Baby Dress is truly a labor of love. Every stitch you put into this project shows in the finished piece. The combination of the structured cream bodice and the flowing lace skirt creates such a beautiful silhouette. And those daisy appliques? They transform a lovely dress into something truly special.
Take your time with this one. Work through each section step by step and do not be afraid to take breaks. The construction is logical once you understand the flow, and each completed section gives you a sense of accomplishment.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I truly appreciate you being here and trusting me with your crochet time. If you make this dress, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo on Facebook. Seeing your finished projects is genuinely one of my favorite things.
If you loved this pattern, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I read every single comment and love hearing about your crochet adventures!
