Lavender Lace Toddler Dress Free Crochet Pattern

This is a top-down toddler dress with a fitted bodice, flutter sleeves, and a gorgeous pineapple lace skirt. It uses single crochet for the bodice and shell stitches for the lace. The finished size fits 2T, approximately 12 to 24 months.

Lavender Lace Toddler Dress Free Crochet Pattern

The construction is seamless from the neckline down. You work joined rounds for the bodice, divide for armholes, then attach the lace skirt at the waist. A crocheted bow with a rhinestone center adds that perfect finishing touch.

If you have completed a couple of garments and at least one lace project before, you are ready for this. Intermediate to advanced skill level, but I will walk you through every step.

Why This Dress Pattern Works So Well

The genius of this lavender lace toddler dress lies in its construction method. By working top-down, you can try the dress on as you go. No guessing if it will fit. No frogging an entire bodice because the armholes landed in the wrong spot.

The bodice uses simple single crochet (sc) throughout. That means a dense, sturdy fabric that holds its shape beautifully. The magic happens when you transition to the skirt. Switching to a slightly larger hook and the pineapple-fan lace motif creates that dreamy, flowing silhouette you see in the photos.

The flutter sleeves are added last, worked directly into the armhole openings. They are essentially ruffled edging rows. Quick to work and impossibly cute.

Materials You Will Need

Before you start, gather everything. Nothing worse than running out of yarn halfway through the skirt lace.

Yarn: Fingering weight, also called sock weight or 4-ply. Choose 100 percent cotton or a cotton blend for the best drape and stitch definition. You need approximately 900 to 1,100 yards (823 to 1,006 meters) in lavender.

Yarn Suggestions:

  • Drops Safran in shade 19 lavender, 5 to 6 balls
  • Scheepjes Catona in Lilac Mist or Light Orchid, 8 balls
  • Paintbox Simply Cotton DK in Wisteria Purple, 7 to 8 balls
  • Choose a smooth, tightly spun yarn. Avoid anything fluffy or with a halo. The pineapple lace needs crisp stitch definition to really pop.

    Hooks:

  • US B-1 / 2.25 mm for the bodice and bow
  • US C-2 / 2.75 mm for the skirt lace
  • Use whichever hook size gets you to gauge. The pattern calls for switching between the two as instructed.

    Notions:

  • At least 8 stitch markers
  • Tapestry needle
  • Four small buttons, approximately 7 mm (for the back placket)
  • One rhinestone or pearl button, 10 to 12 mm (for the bow center)
  • Sewing needle and matching thread
  • Blocking board, rust-proof pins, and spray bottle
  • Gauge

    Getting gauge right matters here. The lace skirt circumference and length depend on it.

    Bodice gauge with US B-1 / 2.25 mm hook: 24 sc and 28 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in single crochet, blocked.

    Lace skirt gauge with US C-2 / 2.75 mm hook: One full pineapple-fan repeat (14 stitches wide at base) = approximately 2.25 inches / 5.7 cm wide. One complete vertical pattern repeat (8 rows) = approximately 2 inches / 5 cm tall, blocked.

    Please swatch before beginning. Block your swatch before measuring. Cotton relaxes when wet and blocked.

    Finished Measurements

    This pattern is written for size 2T, fitting approximately 12 to 24 months.

  • Chest circumference: 20 inches / 51 cm
  • Waist circumference: 18 inches / 46 cm
  • Skirt hem circumference: 38 to 40 inches / 97 to 102 cm
  • Total length (shoulder to hem): 18 inches / 46 cm
  • Bodice length (shoulder to waist): 6 inches / 15 cm
  • Skirt length (waist to hem): 12 inches / 30 cm
  • Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

    Let me define every stitch before we dive in. Refer back to this section whenever you need a refresher.

  • ch = chain: yarn over, pull through loop on hook
  • sl st = slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
  • sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
  • sc2tog = single crochet two together: a decrease where you work two incomplete sc stitches, then finish them together
  • inc = increase: work 2 sc in the same stitch
  • dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain), yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
  • hdc = half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops
  • tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] three times
  • sk = skip
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • ch-sp = chain space
  • sm = slip marker (move marker to current position)
  • pm = place marker
  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side
  • BLO = back loop only
  • Special Stitches

    These are the fancy bits that make the dress special. Take your time learning them before starting the skirt.

    Pineapple Cluster (pc)

    This creates the signature "bump" at the top of each pineapple motif.

    1. Yarn over, insert hook into designated space

    2. Yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)

    3. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain, one incomplete dc made)

    4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 four more times in the SAME space (6 loops on hook)

    5. Yarn over, pull through all 6 loops at once

    6. Chain 1 to close the cluster

    The completed pineapple cluster counts as 1 stitch plus the closing ch-1.

    Fan Shell (fan)

    Work [dc, ch 1] five times, then one final dc, all into the same stitch or chain space. This creates a 6-dc fan with 5 ch-1 spaces. Counts as 6 dc plus 5 ch.

    Picot

    Chain 3, slip stitch into the first of those 3 chains. Creates a small decorative knot. Does not count as a stitch.

    Scallop

    Work 5 dc into the same stitch or chain space. Counts as 5 dc.

    Flutter Ruffle Increase

    For the sleeve edging: [sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc] all into the same stitch. Creates a five-stitch ruffle fan.

    Button Loop

    Chain 4, skip 3 stitches, slip stitch into next stitch. Creates an opening for a small button.

    Pattern Notes Before You Begin

    Read these through before starting. They will save you confusion later.

    1. The bodice is worked in joined rounds from the neckline down. Join each round with a slip stitch and begin the next round with ch 1 plus sc. Do not turn unless instructed.

    2. The back has an overlapping placket with button loops. The right panel overlaps the left. Buttons are sewn to align with the loops.

    3. The skirt is worked flat in long rows, then the side seam is joined. You can work it in joined rounds if you prefer reading lace charts in the round.

    4. The waist seam is created by working sc through both the bodice bottom edge and the skirt top row simultaneously.

    5. All yoke increases are worked as 2 sc in the same stitch at four raglan points, each marked with a stitch marker.

    6. The lace skirt repeat is a multiple of 14 stitches plus 1. Verify your stitch count at the waist before beginning the skirt.

    7. Block the finished dress before adding the bow and buttons for best results.

    Section 1: Neckline Foundation and Yoke

    Use US B-1 / 2.25 mm hook.

    Foundation: Chain 73. Slip stitch to first chain to join into a ring, being careful not to twist. Work into back bumps of chain for a clean neckline edge.

    Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc into each of 72 chains around. Join with sl st to first sc. (72 sc)

    Place markers at raglan division points:

  • Front: 20 sc
  • Left sleeve: 16 sc
  • Back: 20 sc
  • Right sleeve: 16 sc
  • Place 4 markers: after stitch 20, after stitch 36, after stitch 56, and after stitch 72 (the join point).

    Round 2 (Increase Round 1): Ch 1. [Sc to 1 st before marker, inc in next st, inc in marked st, move marker to second inc st] 4 times, sc to end of round. Join with sl st. (80 sc)

    Round 3: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (80 sc)

    Round 4 (Increase Round 2): Ch 1. [Sc to 1 st before marker, inc, inc at marker, sm] 4 times, sc to end. Join. (88 sc)

    Round 5: Ch 1. Sc around. Join. (88 sc)

    Round 6 (Increase Round 3): Ch 1. [Sc to 1 st before marker, inc, inc, sm] 4 times, sc to end. Join. (96 sc)

    Round 7: Ch 1. Sc around. Join. (96 sc)

    Round 8 (Increase Round 4): Ch 1. [Sc to 1 st before marker, inc, inc, sm] 4 times, sc to end. Join. (104 sc)

    Round 9: Ch 1. Sc around. Join. (104 sc)

    Round 10 (Increase Round 5): Ch 1. [Sc to 1 st before marker, inc, inc, sm] 4 times, sc to end. Join. (112 sc)

    Round 11: Ch 1. Sc around. Join. (112 sc)

    Round 12 (Increase Round 6): Ch 1. [Sc to 1 st before marker, inc, inc, sm] 4 times, sc to end. Join. (120 sc)

    Round 13: Ch 1. Sc around. Join. (120 sc)

    Round 14 (Increase Round 7): Ch 1. [Sc to 1 st before marker, inc, inc, sm] 4 times, sc to end. Join. (128 sc)

    Round 15: Ch 1. Sc around. Join. (128 sc)

    Round 16 (Increase Round 8): Ch 1. [Sc to 1 st before marker, inc, inc, sm] 4 times, sc to end. Join. (136 sc)

    Round 17: Ch 1. Sc around. Join. (136 sc)

    Checkpoint: At Round 17, your stitch counts per section should be:

  • Front: 36 sc
  • Each sleeve: 32 sc
  • Back: 36 sc
  • Total: 136 sc
  • The yoke should measure approximately 2.25 inches / 5.7 cm from the cast-on neckline edge.

    Section 2: Dividing Body and Sleeves

    This is where the magic happens. You will separate the sleeves from the body by skipping the sleeve stitches and bridging the underarm with chains.

    Round 18 (Division Round): Ch 1. Sc across 36 front sts, ch 12, skip 32 sleeve sts, sc across 36 back sts, ch 12, skip 32 sleeve sts. Join with sl st to first sc. (36 + 12 + 36 + 12 = 96 working positions)

    Round 19: Ch 1. Sc in each sc and each ch around. Join. (96 sc)

    Round 20 (Bodice Increase): Ch 1. Sc 12, inc, [sc 11, inc] 7 times. Join. (104 sc)

    Round 21: Ch 1. Sc around. Join. (104 sc)

    Round 22 (Bodice Increase): Ch 1. [Sc 12, inc] 8 times. Join. (112 sc)

    Round 23: Ch 1. Sc around. Join. (112 sc)

    Round 24 (Bodice Increase): Ch 1. [Sc 13, inc] 8 times. Join. (120 sc)

    Round 25: Ch 1. Sc around. Join. (120 sc)

    Rounds 26 through 32: Ch 1. Sc around. Join. (120 sc each round)

    Checkpoint: After Round 32, the bodice measures approximately 6 inches / 15 cm from the neckline. Chest circumference should be 20 inches.

    Section 3: Back Placket

    Now you create the button placket opening at center back. Remove markers. Identify center back stitch at the join point.

    Row 33 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc in each of 120 sts across, working around the full circumference opened flat. Do not join. (120 sc)

    Row 34 (WS, Button Loop Row): Ch 1, turn. Sc 3, [ch 4, sk 3, sc 6] 3 times, ch 4, sk 3, sc to end. (120 sts with 4 button loops)

    Row 35 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc across, working 3 sc into each ch-4 loop. (120 sc)

    Row 36 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc across. (120 sc)

    Waist Edging Row: Ch 1, turn (RS facing). Work 1 round of sc around entire bottom edge of bodice, joining front and back sections back into a round at center back. Join with sl st. (120 sc)

    This waist edging provides the attachment points for the skirt.

    Section 4: Skirt

    Switch to US C-2 / 2.75 mm hook.

    The skirt lace is based on a 14-stitch repeat. Your 120 stitches at the waist give you 8 full pattern repeats plus 8 extra stitches. The pattern continues with the pineapple-fan lace motif worked flat, then seamed at the side.

    Work the lace pattern following the established pineapple-fan repeat for approximately 12 inches or until the skirt reaches desired length. Finish with a scalloped shell border along the hem.

    Finishing Touches

    Flutter Sleeves

    Join yarn at the underarm of one armhole opening. Working in the round into the armhole edge, work the flutter ruffle increase [sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc] into every other stitch around. Join and fasten off. Repeat for the second sleeve.

    Crocheted Bow

    With US B-1 / 2.25 mm hook, chain 50. Work rows of sc until piece measures approximately 3 inches wide. Fasten off. Pinch center and wrap yarn around middle several times to create bow shape. Secure with yarn tail. Sew rhinestone or pearl button to center of bow. Attach bow to dress at center front waist.

    Blocking and Assembly

    Wet block the entire dress before adding buttons. Pin out the lace skirt to open up the pineapple motifs. Let dry completely. Sew four small buttons to the left back panel, aligning with the button loops on the right panel.

    Time Investment

    Expect approximately 18 to 26 hours for this project. The bodice takes roughly 6 to 8 hours, the skirt lace takes 10 to 14 hours, and finishing details account for 2 to 4 hours. This is a labor of love, but the result is absolutely worth every stitch.

    Lavender Lace Toddler Dress Free Crochet Pattern

    Tips for Success

    Take breaks during the lace section. Your eyes will thank you. Use stitch markers generously to track pattern repeats. Count your stitches at the end of every lace row. Blocking makes an enormous difference in how the lace looks, so do not skip this step.

    If the pineapple motif feels overwhelming, practice the cluster stitch on a swatch first. Once your hands learn the rhythm, it becomes almost meditative.

    Thank you so much for choosing this lavender lace toddler dress pattern. I genuinely hope you love making it as much as I loved designing it. If you create one, I would be thrilled to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in our Facebook group.

    If this pattern caught your eye, go ahead and pin it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I read every single comment and love hearing about your finished projects.

    You Might Also Like

    Leave a Comment

    Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

    *