My niece announced her pregnancy last spring, and I immediately started sketching. I wanted to make something that would feel like an heirloom. Something her daughter could wear for photos and special occasions, but that also felt soft and comfortable for everyday play. When I finished this little daisy dress and held it up to the light, watching the lace body catch the sun and those cheerful daisy squares smile back at me, I actually teared up a little.
This crochet daisy granny square baby dress combines everything I love about handmade baby garments. The sweet daisy motifs feel classic and timeless. The open lace body keeps it light and breathable for warm weather. And the construction teaches you skills you can use for dozens of future projects.
If you have been wanting to try garment construction but felt intimidated, this is your sign. I am going to walk you through every single step, from the first magic ring to the final button. Let us make something beautiful together.
What Makes This Baby Dress Special
This dress works from the top down, which means you can try it on as you go if you have a willing baby model nearby. The yoke is built from individual daisy granny squares joined together. The body uses a gorgeous shell and fan lace stitch that creates an airy, flowing fabric. And the hem finishes with another row of daisy squares that form a naturally scalloped edge.
The daisy granny square is the star of the show. Each square features a bright golden center surrounded by eight white petals, all framed in a cream granny square border. These squares appear at the shoulders, across the front and back yoke, and around the bottom hem.
Between the yoke and hem, the shell and fan lace pattern creates the body of the dress. This stitch pattern looks intricate but follows a simple repeat once you get the rhythm. The lace allows air to flow, making this dress comfortable even on warmer days.
Skill Level and Time Estimate
This pattern is rated intermediate. You should be comfortable working granny squares, reading written instructions for lace patterns, and working in joined rounds. If you have completed several granny square projects and at least one simple garment like a baby cardigan or poncho, you have the skills for this dress.
Plan for approximately 12 to 18 hours of work for the 6 to 12 month size. Most of that time goes into making and blocking the 14 daisy squares. Once those are done, the body works up relatively quickly. Blocking adds another 2 to 3 hours of drying time.
Finished Sizes
This pattern includes four sizes:
Size 3 to 6 months: Chest 16 inches (40.5 cm), Length 12 inches (30.5 cm)
Size 6 to 12 months: Chest 18 inches (45.5 cm), Length 13.5 inches (34 cm)
Size 12 to 18 months: Chest 19 inches (48 cm), Length 15 inches (38 cm)
Size 18 to 24 months: Chest 20.5 inches (52 cm), Length 16.5 inches (42 cm)
All instructions below are written for the 6 to 12 month size. I will include size adjustments at the end.
Materials You Will Need
Yarn: Fingering weight cotton or cotton blend yarn
Hooks:
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK Cotton in Vanilla Cream (MC), Paper White (CA), and Daffodil Yellow (CB). This 100% cotton yarn blocks beautifully and holds stitch definition well in lace patterns.
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Linen (MC), White (CA), and Buttercup (CB). This mercerized cotton is widely available and affordable with excellent drape for baby garments.
Scheepjes Catona in Old Lace (MC), White (CA), and Honey (CB). This premium mercerized cotton offers exceptional stitch clarity for heirloom quality results.
Any smooth mercerized cotton that achieves gauge will work. Avoid fuzzy or lofty yarns because they will obscure the lace and petal details.
Gauge
Getting gauge right is critical for proper fit.
Daisy Granny Square: One completed square measures 3.25 inches x 3.25 inches (8.25 cm x 8.25 cm) after blocking, using US B-1 / 2.25 mm hook.
Body Lace: 24 stitches and 12 rows equals 4 inches x 4 inches (10 cm x 10 cm) in the shell fan lace pattern using US C-2 / 2.75 mm hook, after blocking.
Make at least one full daisy square and one 4 inch swatch of the lace body before starting. Adjust hook size as needed.
Abbreviations
Let me define every stitch abbreviation you will encounter:
Special Stitches Explained
Daisy Petal Stitch
This creates the elongated petals for each daisy. Each petal is a modified treble crochet worked with slightly looser tension for a flatter, wider shape.
Step 1: Yarn over twice.
Step 2: Insert hook into indicated stitch or space.
Step 3: Yarn over, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).
Step 4: Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook).
Step 5: Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook).
Step 6: Do not complete the stitch yet. Leave 2 loops on hook. This is one incomplete treble.
Petal Cluster
To form a petal cluster of 5 petals: Work 5 incomplete treble crochets (steps 1 through 6 above) all into the same stitch or space. After the 5th incomplete treble, you will have 6 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops at once. Chain 1 to close and secure the cluster. This forms one complete daisy petal cluster.
Shell Stitch
Work 5 double crochet all into the same stitch or space. Simple as that.
Fan Stitch
Work 2 double crochet, chain 2, 2 double crochet all into the same stitch or space.
Picot
Chain 3, slip stitch into first chain of the chain 3. This creates a small decorative loop used in the armhole edging.
Join As You Go (JAYG)
When joining a new square to a completed square during the final round of the new square, replace the corner chain 2 or side chain 1 with a slip stitch into the corresponding space of the adjacent square. This joins without sewing afterward.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. The dress is worked top down. Build the yoke first from individual daisy squares, then work the body lace in rounds from the yoke down, then add the hem squares last.
2. Block all daisy squares flat before joining. This ensures even joining lines and consistent sizing.
3. When joining squares using JAYG, always join with the right side facing outward.
4. The back center has a small keyhole opening of approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) for easy dressing, closed with a button.
5. Chain 3 at the beginning of a double crochet round counts as one double crochet throughout unless otherwise stated.
6. The body lace uses a 12 stitch repeat. Your starting stitch count must be divisible by 12.
7. Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of each round and the join points between squares in the yoke.
Daisy Granny Square Instructions
You will make 14 squares total:
All squares are identical.
Round 1 (Center)
Using CB (golden yellow), make a magic ring or chain 4 and join with slip stitch to form a ring.
Chain 1. Work 8 single crochet into ring. Join with slip stitch to first single crochet. (8 sc)
Round 2 (Petal Round)
Change to CA (white). Chain 1.
Working into each single crochet around, work one petal cluster (5 petal cluster as described in Special Stitches) into the first single crochet, chain 2.
Work one petal cluster into the next single crochet, chain 2.
Repeat until all 8 single crochet have one petal cluster each. Join with slip stitch to top of first petal cluster. (8 petal clusters, 8 ch-2 spaces)
Each of the 8 single crochet receives one 5 petal cluster separated by chain 2 between each cluster. This forms the 8 petal daisy ring.
Round 3 (Transition Round)
Change to MC (cream). Slip stitch into first chain 2 space.
Chain 3 (counts as double crochet), work 2 double crochet in same chain 2 space, chain 1.
Work 3 double crochet in next chain 2 space, chain 1.
Repeat around all 8 chain 2 spaces. Join with slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3. (8 groups of 3 dc, 8 ch-1 spaces)
Round 4 (Granny Square Corner Round)
Chain 3 (counts as double crochet).
Working in the chain 1 spaces and over the double crochet groups, work the following sequence:
2 double crochet in first chain 1 space, chain 2, 3 double crochet in same chain 1 space (first corner completed), chain 1.
3 double crochet in next chain 1 space (side cluster), chain 1.
Corner: 3 double crochet, chain 2, 3 double crochet in next chain 1 space, chain 1.
3 double crochet in next chain 1 space, chain 1.
Repeat the corner and side cluster sequence 2 more times to complete 4 corners with one side cluster between each pair of corners.
Join with slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3.
Stitch count: 4 corners (each = 6 dc + ch 2) + 4 side clusters (each = 3 dc) = 24 dc + 4 ch-2 corner spaces + 8 ch-1 side spaces
Round 5 (Final Square Round)
Slip stitch to first chain 1 space. Chain 3, 2 double crochet in same chain 1 space, chain 1.
At corner chain 2 space: work (3 double crochet, chain 2, 3 double crochet), chain 1.
3 double crochet in next chain 1 space, chain 1.
3 double crochet in next chain 1 space, chain 1.
At corner: (3 double crochet, chain 2, 3 double crochet), chain 1.
Continue around all 4 sides maintaining pattern. Join with slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3. Fasten off, leaving a 10 inch (25.5 cm) tail for joining.
Round 5 result: Each side of the square has 3 clusters of 3 double crochet separated by chain 1, with chain 2 corner spaces at each of the 4 corners. Total: 12 clusters (36 dc), 8 ch-1 side spaces, 4 ch-2 corner spaces.
Finished blocked square: 3.25 inches x 3.25 inches (8.25 cm x 8.25 cm).
Block all 14 squares before proceeding.
Yoke Construction
Layout Description
The yoke is 3 squares wide across the front and 3 squares wide across the back. Two shoulder squares bridge the front and back across each shoulder.
Front: 3 squares side by side = 9.75 inches (24.75 cm)
Back: 3 squares side by side = 9.75 inches (24.75 cm) with center keyhole gap
Joining the Front Yoke Squares
Place 3 front squares right side up in a horizontal row. Using MC and the JAYG method, join Square 2 to Square 1 along one side edge during the final round, then join Square 3 to Square 2. (3 squares in a row)
Joining the Back Yoke Squares
Repeat for 3 back squares. For the center back square, work Round 5 flat on the top edge only (do not close the center back seam fully) to create the keyhole opening. The keyhole is approximately 3 stitches wide at the center top edge.
Joining Front and Back with Shoulder Squares
Position the front strip and back strip with top edges facing. Join one shoulder square into the top right corner of the front strip and the top right corner of the back strip simultaneously using JAYG. Repeat for the second shoulder square on the opposite top corners.
The resulting joined yoke is a rectangle with armhole openings between the front and back sides. The armhole opening on each side measures approximately 3.25 inches x 3.25 inches (one square width and height).
Checkpoint 1
After completing and joining all yoke squares, your joined yoke should lay flat and measure approximately 9.75 inches (24.75 cm) across the front, 3.25 inches (8.25 cm) tall at center front, with open armholes on each side. The piece should look like a rectangular loop when held up.
Body Lace Instructions
The body is worked in joined rounds picking up from the bottom edge of the joined yoke squares.
Setup Round (Picking Up from Yoke)
With right side facing, join MC with slip stitch to the bottom right corner chain 2 space of the front yoke strip.
Chain 3 (counts as double crochet).
Working across the bottom edge of all 6 yoke squares (3 front and 3 back), work as follows:
Into each chain 1 space along the bottom edge: 2 double crochet.
Into each corner chain 2 space at the joins between squares: 3 double crochet.
Into each outer corner chain 2 space (where front meets back at side seam): 2 double crochet.
Target stitch count: 72 stitches. This is divisible by 12 (the lace repeat unit), giving 6 complete repeats around the body.
Adjust by working 2 or 3 double crochet into corner spaces as needed to reach exactly 72 double crochet. Use stitch markers to count in groups of 12 as you go.
Join with slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3. (72 dc)
Body Lace Pattern
The body lace uses a 12 stitch shell fan repeat.
Round 1 (RS)
Chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Single crochet in first double crochet.
Chain 3. Skip 2 double crochet, shell (5 double crochet) in next double crochet, skip 2 double crochet, single crochet in next double crochet, chain 3, skip 2 double crochet, shell in next double crochet, skip 2 double crochet, single crochet in next double crochet, chain 3.
Repeat the pattern (shell, skip 2, single crochet, chain 3, skip 2) around for a total of 6 shells and 6 chain 3 arches.
Join with slip stitch to first single crochet. (6 shells = 30 dc, 6 sc, 6 ch-3 arches)
Round 2
Chain 3, turn (counts as double crochet). Work 2 double crochet in same single crochet (half shell).
Single crochet in center double crochet of next shell, chain 3, single crochet in center double crochet of following shell.
Work full shell (5 double crochet) in next single crochet, single crochet in center double crochet of next shell, chain 3, single crochet in center double crochet of next shell.
Continue around maintaining the offset shell placement. End with 2 double crochet in same stitch as beginning chain 3 to complete the half shell.
Join with slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3. (6 shells, 6 sc, 6 ch-3 arches)
Rounds 3 through 6
Continue alternating the shell placement as established in Rounds 1 and 2. The shells shift one position each round, creating the diamond lace texture. (6 shells, 6 sc, 6 ch-3 arches each round)
Increase Round (Round 7)
To flare the skirt for the A line silhouette, increase the stitch count to 84 stitches (7 repeats of 12).
Chain 3, turn. Work the established shell fan pattern around but work 2 shells with a single crochet between them into each chain 3 arch where you previously worked one shell. Specifically, in every other chain 3 arch, after the first shell, work single crochet in arch, chain 3, single crochet in arch, shell in same arch.
This adds 12 stitches total (one extra repeat). Join with slip stitch. (84 sts = 7 shells, 7 ch-3 arches)
Rounds 8 through 12
Continue shell fan lace pattern over 7 repeats (84 stitches structure). No shaping. (7 shells, 7 sc, 7 ch-3 arches each round)
Increase Round (Round 13)
Increase to 96 stitches (8 repeats of 12) using the same method as Round 7. (8 shells, 8 sc, 8 ch-3 arches)
Rounds 14 through 18
Continue shell fan lace pattern over 8 repeats (96 stitches structure). No shaping. (8 shells, 8 sc, 8 ch-3 arches each round)
Final Body Round (Round 19)
Work one round of single crochet across all structural stitches to create a firm base for the hem square attachment.
Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet of each shell, 1 single crochet in each single crochet, and 2 single crochet in each chain 3 arch.
Target: 96 single crochet. Adjust by adding or skipping 1 single crochet in the arches to hit exactly 96.
Join with slip stitch to first single crochet. (96 sc)
Checkpoint 2
After completing Round 19, the body should measure approximately 8.5 inches (21.5 cm) from the base of the yoke to the bottom edge of the lace body. The circumference at the hem base should measure approximately 16 inches (40.5 cm) laid flat.
Hem Daisy Square Border
The hem is formed by joining 8 daisy squares around the bottom circumference. The 96 single crochet hem base provides 12 single crochet per square (8 squares x 12 = 96), which aligns perfectly.
Joining the Hem Squares
With right side facing, position a completed daisy square below the hem base. Using MC and JAYG, work the final round of joining on the square’s top edge by slip stitching into each corresponding single crochet of the hem base.
Where the top edge of the square would have chain 1 spaces and corner spaces, replace those chain spaces with slip stitches into the appropriate hem base single crochet stitches.
Attach remaining 7 squares in sequence around the hem base using JAYG along each top edge. Join adjacent squares at their shared side edges simultaneously during the final round where they touch.
Fasten off all ends.
The lower edge of each square forms the scalloped bottom of the dress.
Armhole Edging
With right side facing and MC, join yarn with slip stitch at the bottom of one armhole opening.
Round 1
Chain 1. Work single crochet evenly around the entire armhole opening. Place 1 single crochet per chain 1 space along the side edges and 1 single crochet per corner chain 2 space.
Approximately 24 to 28 single crochet around each armhole. Adjust to an even number.
Join with slip stitch to first single crochet.
Round 2
Chain 1. Single crochet in first single crochet.
Picot (chain 3, slip stitch in first chain of chain 3). Single crochet in next single crochet.
Repeat (single crochet, picot) around.
Join with slip stitch to first single crochet. Fasten off.
Repeat for the second armhole.
Neck Edging and Button Loop
With right side facing and MC, join yarn at the bottom right of the back keyhole opening.
Round 1
Chain 1. Work single crochet evenly around the entire neckline. Place approximately 10 single crochet across the top edge of each square and 2 single crochet in each corner space.
Approximately 64 single crochet around total neckline including the keyhole edges.
At the center top of the back keyhole right edge: After working up the right keyhole edge, chain 5 (button loop), slip stitch back down into the first single crochet of the chain 5 to form a loop.
Continue single crochet around the left keyhole edge to close.
Fasten off.
Sew button onto the left keyhole edge corresponding to the button loop position.
Size Customization
To size down to 3 to 6 months: Remove one full lace increase round. Work only to Round 7 body lace without the Round 13 increase. This reduces hem circumference by approximately 12 stitches and shortens body height by approximately 2 inches (5 cm). Reduce hem squares to 7 and adjust hem base single crochet to 84.
To size up to 12 to 18 months: After Round 13 body lace, add a third increase round at Round 20 to reach 108 stitches (9 repeats). Work Rounds 21 through 26 plain before the final hem preparation round. Increase hem squares to 9.
To size up to 18 to 24 months: Follow the 12 to 18 month instructions, then add 4 more plain body rounds and increase hem squares to 9 or 10.
General rule: Each additional 12 stitches around the body adds approximately 2 inches (5 cm) of circumference. Each additional 2 body lace rounds adds approximately 0.6 inches (1.5 cm) of length.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all yarn ends securely using a tapestry needle. Go in two directions through the stitches to prevent ends from working loose during washing.
Wet blocking is strongly recommended:
Step 1: Submerge the completed dress in cool water for 10 minutes.
Step 2: Gently squeeze out water. Do not wring.
Step 3: Roll in a clean towel to remove excess moisture.
Step 4: Lay flat on blocking mats. Shape the dress to finished measurements. Pin the hem daisy squares to fully open and align the scalloped edge. Open the shell fan lace sections with your fingers to show the full pattern before pinning.
Step 5: Allow to dry completely, approximately 24 hours depending on humidity.
For the daisy squares specifically, pin each petal tip outward from the center to fully open the daisy shape. Use a single pin per petal tip. Remove pins only after fully dry.
Sew the button onto the back keyhole left edge using a double strand of CB yarn for a coordinating color detail.
Care Instructions
Machine wash on gentle cycle in cool water inside a mesh laundry bag. Use mild detergent designed for delicate fabrics. Do not use bleach or fabric softener. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Do not iron directly on the daisy squares. Steam blocking with a garment steamer may be used to refresh the dress between washes. Store folded flat, not on a hanger, to preserve the garment shape.
You Did It!
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I know garment construction can feel intimidating, but you have everything you need right here. Take it one step at a time, trust your skills, and do not skip the blocking. That is where the magic happens.
I would absolutely love to see your finished daisy dress. Tag me on Instagram or share your photos in my Facebook group. Seeing your creations is honestly the best part of my day.
If you loved this crochet daisy granny square baby dress pattern, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it again later. And please leave a comment below if you make one. I read every single comment and it makes my heart so happy to hear from you.
