Tulip Garden Tote Bag Free Crochet Pattern

I don’t know about you, but I have a serious weakness for bags that make people stop and ask, "Wait, did you make that?" This tote is exactly that kind of project. Six little crocheted tulips in shades of purple, a creamy structured body, and that sweet scalloped edge at the top.

Tulip Garden Tote Bag Free Crochet Pattern

The best part? It looks far more complicated than it actually is. If you’ve dabbled in Tunisian crochet before and made even one small amigurumi, you have all the skills you need. The bag comes together in two flat panels, the tulips are worked separately, and then everything gets assembled at the end.

This is the kind of project that feels like a treat to work on. Grab your favorite cotton yarn, settle into your comfy spot, and let’s make something beautiful together.

About This Tulip Tote Bag Crochet Pattern

This structured tote features a cream body worked entirely in Tunisian simple stitch, which creates that distinctive dense, woven-looking fabric you can see in the finished piece. The technique gives the bag excellent structure and a professional appearance that standard crochet simply cannot replicate.

Six three-dimensional tulip appliques decorate the front panel. Three are worked in deep violet purple and three in soft lavender, alternating across the design for visual interest. Each tulip has its own sage green stem and two little leaves. The back panel stays plain, keeping the design balanced and the construction manageable.

The top edge features a pretty scallop border that adds a feminine touch without overwhelming the tulip motif. Two sturdy handles complete the look, making this bag practical for everyday use.

Finished measurements: Approximately 14 inches wide by 13 inches tall (excluding handles) by 3 inches deep. The handles add about 10 inches of length above the bag opening.

Skill Level

This pattern is rated intermediate. You should be comfortable with Tunisian simple stitch, standard single crochet, working in the round for the tulip heads, and basic seaming techniques.

If you have never tried Tunisian crochet before, I recommend practicing a small swatch first. The technique uses a special long hook and works differently from regular crochet, but once you understand the forward pass and return pass rhythm, it becomes almost meditative.

Estimated time to complete: 15 to 20 hours total, including both panels, all six tulips with stems and leaves, seaming, edging, and handles.

Materials Needed

Yarn

You will need worsted weight cotton yarn (Category 4) in four colors:

  • Main Color (MC): Off-white or cream, approximately 400 yards (365 m)
  • Color A (CA): Deep violet purple, approximately 60 yards (55 m)
  • Color B (CB): Soft lavender purple, approximately 60 yards (55 m)
  • Color C (CC): Sage green, approximately 40 yards (37 m)
  • Yarn suggestions that work beautifully for this project:

    1. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Ecru, Violet, Lavender, and Fern

    2. Paintbox Yarns Simply Worsted in Vanilla Cream, Violet Purple, Wisteria Purple, and Pistachio Green

    3. WeCrochet Dishie Worsted in Bare, Deep Violet, Fairy Tale, and Thyme

    Choose a smooth, plied cotton or cotton-blend yarn. Avoid fuzzy or loosely spun yarns because Tunisian simple stitch requires clear stitch definition for the return pass.

    Hooks

  • Size 5.0 mm (H-8) Tunisian/Afghan hook for body panels
  • Size 5.0 mm (H-8) standard crochet hook for edging, handles, tulips, leaves, and stems
  • Additional Supplies

  • Yarn needle for weaving ends and sewing appliques
  • 4 to 6 stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Optional: 2 pieces of stiff plastic canvas cut to 14 x 3 inches for base support
  • Optional: lining fabric with sewing needle and thread
  • Gauge

    Body panels in Tunisian simple stitch: 14 stitches and 12 rows = 4 inches (10 cm), blocked.

    Always make a gauge swatch before beginning. Tunisian fabric draws in significantly during the forward pass and must be measured after the return pass. Block your swatch before measuring for accurate results.

    Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

    Before we dive in, let me define every abbreviation you will encounter:

  • ch = chain
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • tr = treble crochet
  • inc = increase (work 2 sc in the same stitch)
  • dec = invisible decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 stitches, draw up loop, yarn over, pull through all loops)
  • sk = skip
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side
  • rep = repeat
  • tss = Tunisian simple stitch
  • Rnd = round
  • MR = magic ring (an adjustable loop; work stitches into the loop, then pull tail to close)
  • FLO = front loop only
  • BLO = back loop only
  • Special Stitches Explained

    Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS)

    This stitch works in two passes. You never turn your work.

    Forward Pass: Insert your hook from right to left under the vertical bar of the next stitch. Draw up a loop and leave it on the hook. Repeat across the row until all loops are on the hook.

    Return Pass: Yarn over, pull through 1 loop (this closes the edge stitch). Then yarn over and pull through 2 loops repeatedly until 1 loop remains. That remaining loop counts as the first stitch of your next forward pass.

    Scallop Stitch

    Skip 2 stitches, work 5 dc in the next stitch, skip 2 stitches, slip stitch in the next stitch. Repeat this sequence for the decorative top edge.

    Tunisian Bind Off

    At the end of your final forward pass, instead of working a return pass, slip stitch into each vertical bar across. This creates a firm, even edge.

    Pattern Instructions

    Front and Back Panels (Make 2 Identical)

    Using your Tunisian hook and MC, chain 50.

    Foundation Row Forward Pass: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, draw up a loop, draw up a loop in each remaining ch across. (50 loops on hook)

    Foundation Row Return Pass: Yarn over, pull through 1 loop. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops across until 1 loop remains. (49 tss)

    Row 1 Forward Pass: Draw up a loop under each vertical bar across. (50 loops on hook)

    Row 1 Return Pass: Yarn over, pull through 1. Yarn over, pull through 2 across. 1 loop remains. (49 tss)

    Rows 2 through 38: Repeat Row 1 Forward and Return Passes. (49 tss each row)

    After Row 38, your panel should measure approximately 13 inches tall.

    Bind Off Row: With 1 loop on hook, sl st into each vertical bar across. (49 sl sts) Fasten off.

    Important: Block both panels to 14 x 13 inches before seaming. Pin to measurements, mist with water, and allow to dry completely.

    Assembling the Bag Body

    Place front and back panels together with wrong sides facing each other (right sides facing out on both sides).

    Bottom Seam: Using MC and standard hook, join yarn at one bottom corner. Work sc seam along the bottom edge, inserting hook through both layers. (49 sc) Fasten off.

    Right Side Seam: Join MC at bottom right corner. Work 38 sc up the right side, spacing evenly at approximately 1 sc per Tunisian row. Fasten off.

    Left Side Seam: Repeat for the left side. (38 sc)

    Scallop Top Edging

    Using standard hook and MC, join yarn with sl st at the top right corner of the bag opening, RS facing.

    Pickup Round: Work sc evenly around the entire top opening: 49 sc across front panel top edge, 1 sc in corner, 49 sc across back panel top edge, 1 sc in corner. Join with sl st to first sc. (100 sc total)

    Scallop Edging Front: With RS of front panel facing, join MC at right top corner.

    Row 1: Sl st in first sc, (skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 2 sc, sl st in next sc) 8 times. Fasten off. (8 scallops)

    Scallop Edging Back: Repeat for back panel. (8 scallops)

    Handles (Make 2)

    Using MC and standard hook, chain 90.

    Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across. Turn. (89 sc)

    Rows 2 through 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (89 sc each row)

    After Row 4, fold the strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together.

    Joining Row: Working through both layers, sc along the long edge to join. (89 sc)

    Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for attaching.

    Handle Placement: Position each handle end approximately 3.5 inches from each side edge of the bag. Sew firmly to the inside of the bag top edge using a rectangle and X pattern for security.

    Tulip Appliques (Make 6: 3 in CA, 3 in CB)

    Using standard hook and CA (or CB), make a magic ring.

    Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR, pull ring closed. (6 sc)

    Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)

    Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) 6 times. (18 sc)

    Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (24 sc)

    Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (24 sc)

    Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (24 sc)

    Rnd 7 (petal shaping): (Sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts) 3 times. (24 sts)

    Rnd 8: Sl st in each st around. (24 sl sts) Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail.

    Pinch the base slightly flat and use the tail to partially close the opening.

    Stems (Make 6)

    Using CC and standard hook, chain 14.

    Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across. Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail. (13 sc)

    Leaves (Make 12)

    Using CC and standard hook, make a magic ring.

    Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 10 sc in MR, pull ring closed, join with sl st to first sc. (10 sc)

    Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in last st. Turn. (10 sts)

    Rnd 3: Ch 1, sl st in first st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail. (10 sts)

    Applique Placement

    Lay the front panel flat with RS facing up.

    Stem placement: Arrange 6 stems vertically across the lower portion of the front panel. Position bottoms approximately 1 inch above the bottom seam. Space stems from left edge as follows: 1.5 inches, 3 inches, 5 inches, 7.5 inches, 10 inches, 12 inches. Vary heights slightly for a natural look.

    Leaf placement: Attach 2 leaves per stem, one on each side, positioned about one-third up the stem. Angle outward at approximately 45 degrees.

    Tulip placement: Alternate CA and CB tulips across the six stems. Position each tulip head so its base overlaps the top of its stem by about 0.25 inch. Sew firmly around the base perimeter.

    Finishing Your Tulip Garden Tote

    Weave in all remaining ends. For cotton yarn, weave in at least two directions to prevent unraveling.

    For final blocking, lightly mist the entire bag exterior with water. Shape by hand to ensure square corners and flat sides. Stuff loosely with plastic bags or a towel to hold the boxy shape while drying.

    If desired, slip stiff plastic canvas pieces into the base for added structure.

    Care Instructions

    Hand wash in cool water with gentle detergent. Press flat between towels to remove excess water. Reshape and dry flat. Never tumble dry, as heat will distort the Tunisian fabric and shrink cotton fibers. Store stuffed with tissue paper to maintain shape.

    Tulip Garden Tote Bag Free Crochet Pattern

    A Few Final Tips

    This tote bag crochet pattern creates such a stunning finished piece. The combination of Tunisian stitch structure and those sweet dimensional tulips makes it a true showstopper. Take your time with the gauge swatch and blocking steps. Cotton yarn can be stubborn, but proper blocking makes all the difference in achieving that professional, polished look.

    Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I genuinely hope you love making it as much as I loved designing it. If you create your own Tulip Garden Tote, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in our Facebook group. Seeing your finished pieces is honestly the best part of sharing patterns.

    If this pattern caught your eye, go ahead and pin it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And if you do make one, drop a comment below. I read every single one, and I would love to hear how your tulips turned out!

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