I don’t know about you, but I have a thing for bags that actually look handmade in the best way possible. Not the wobbly, questionable kind of handmade. The kind where people stop you and ask where you bought it.
This navy daisy tote is exactly that kind of project. Structured enough to carry your farmers market haul, pretty enough to get compliments from strangers, and satisfying enough to make you feel like a crochet genius when you’re done.
The combination of that deep navy blue with cheerful cream daisies just works. And yes, it takes some time and intermediate skills, but every single hour is worth it when you see this bucket tote sitting on your table, ready for its first outing.
About This Crochet Tote Bag Pattern
This structured tote bag features a navy blue body worked in the round from the bottom up using single crochet (sc) throughout. The dense fabric creates a firm bag that actually holds its shape, which is exactly what you want for everyday use.
The magic happens in the upper section where four granny square style daisy panels attach to the sides. Each panel showcases a large cream and golden yellow daisy that pops beautifully against the navy background. A twisted rope strap in navy and white adds visual interest, while a cluster of bobble flowers with a cream tassel finishes the whole piece perfectly.
The bucket tote silhouette is wider at the top than the base, giving it that classic market bag shape. There is no zipper or button closure, so everything stays accessible while you shop, travel, or run errands.
Skill Level
This pattern is rated intermediate. You should be comfortable working in the round, joining flat motifs to a crocheted body, working on an oval base, and creating three dimensional bobble flowers.
Nothing here is terribly complicated on its own. But the assembly requires patience and attention to detail. Clean finishing makes all the difference in how professional your finished bag looks.
If you have made granny squares and worked basic bags before, you are ready for this project.
Time Estimate
Plan for approximately 18 to 25 hours depending on your experience level. The daisy motifs and bobble flower embellishments take the most time. I recommend spreading this across several crafting sessions rather than trying to marathon it.
Finished Size
The completed tote measures approximately 12 inches wide x 10 inches tall x 5 inches deep at the base (30 cm x 25 cm x 13 cm), not including handles. The handles add approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of height above the bag opening.
This gives you a generously sized everyday bag perfect for books, produce, craft supplies, or whatever else you need to haul around.
Materials You Will Need
Yarn
Main Color (MC): Navy Blue, approximately 500 yards (457 m) of #4 medium weight cotton yarn
Color A (CA): Cream or Off White, approximately 200 yards (183 m) of #4 medium weight cotton yarn
Color B (CB): Golden Yellow, approximately 40 yards (37 m) of #4 medium weight cotton yarn
Recommended Yarn Brands
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Navy, Off White, and Goldenrod works beautifully. This 100 percent cotton yarn is mercerized for a smooth, polished finish that shows stitch definition clearly.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK Cotton in Sailor Blue, Champagne White, and Buttercup Yellow is another excellent choice. It achieves gauge with the recommended hook and produces a clean, crisp finish.
We Are Knitters The Cotton in Navy, Ecru, and Mustard creates beautiful stitch definition with a natural, slightly textured surface.
Substitution Note: Any #4 worsted or DK weight 100 percent cotton yarn will work. Avoid acrylic for this project. Cotton provides the firm, structured body necessary for the tote to hold its shape. Test your gauge carefully before beginning.
Hook
US Size G-6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook
Additional Materials
Gauge
With MC and US G-6 (4.0 mm) hook: 18 sc x 22 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches (10 cm x 10 cm) in single crochet, worked in the round.
To make a gauge swatch, chain 20 and work 22 rows of sc back and forth. Block lightly by dampening and pinning. Measure the center 18 stitches and center 22 rows. Adjust your hook size up if your gauge is too tight or down if too loose.
Abbreviations
ch = chain (wrap yarn over hook and pull through loop)
sl st = slip stitch (insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook)
sc = single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops twice)
tr = treble crochet
sc2tog = single crochet two together, a decrease stitch
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp = space
rep = repeat
pm = place marker
rnd = round
beg = beginning
rem = remaining
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
MC = main color (navy blue)
CA = color A (cream)
CB = color B (golden yellow)
Special Stitches
Bobble Stitch
This creates a raised, textured bump. You will use it in the daisy motif squares and the decorative bobble flowers.
Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch or space.
Step 2: Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
Step 3: Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain on hook).
Step 4: Repeat steps 1 through 3 four more times in the same stitch or space until you have 6 loops on hook.
Step 5: Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops at once. One bobble stitch complete.
Daisy Petal
This creates the long petals radiating from the daisy center.
Step 1: Working into the daisy center ring with CA, join yarn.
Step 2: Ch 1 (does not count as st). Work 1 sc into ring.
Step 3: Ch 10.
Step 4: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each of the next 9 ch (returning to the base).
Step 5: Sl st into the center ring to anchor the petal. One petal complete.
Granny Corner Shell
Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) all into the same chain 2 corner space. This creates the classic granny square corner.
Twisted Rope Handle
Step 1: Cut 8 strands of MC yarn, each 60 inches (152 cm) long.
Step 2: Fold in half so you have a bundle of 16 strands, 30 inches (76 cm) long.
Step 3: Secure one end to a fixed point. Twist the entire bundle tightly in one direction until it begins to kink.
Step 4: Fold the twisted bundle in half at its midpoint. It will coil around itself to form a rope.
Step 5: Knot both cut ends together. Trim evenly. This makes one handle approximately 14 inches (36 cm) long. Make two.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
The bag body is worked in continuous rounds from the bottom up. This means no turning and no joining slip stitch at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
The daisy motif panels are worked separately as granny square style units and then sewn onto the upper body of the bag after the body is complete.
The daisy center with petals is also worked separately and then sewn onto the center of each motif square.
All stitch counts appear in parentheses at the end of each relevant row or round, like this: (60 sc).
The base is worked as an oval using a starting chain, which creates the flat, rigid base visible in the finished bag.
When attaching motif panels to the bag body, align them carefully so the top edge of the panel sits 2 rows below the bag opening. Pin before sewing for best results.
Crochet Tote Bag Pattern Instructions
Part 1: Bag Base (Oval)
The base is worked in joined rounds using BLO sc to create a slight ridge that helps the side walls stand upright.
Foundation: With MC, ch 25.
Round 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of the next 23 ch. Work 3 sc in the last ch (corner). Rotate work to work along the opposite side of the foundation chain. Sc in each of the next 23 ch. Work 2 sc in the first ch (same as beginning). Join with sl st to first sc. (52 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as st throughout). Working in BLO, sc in next 23 sts. Work 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts (3 sts increased to 6 at one short end). Sc in next 23 sts. Work 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts (3 sts increased to 6 at other short end). Join. (58 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1. Working in BLO, sc in next 23 sts. [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times (3 increase points, adding 3 sts). Sc in next 23 sts. [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. Join. (64 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1. Working in BLO, sc in next 23 sts. [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. Sc in next 23 sts. [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. Join. (70 sc)
Round 5: Ch 1. Working in BLO, sc in next 23 sts. [Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. Sc in next 23 sts. [Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. Join. (76 sc)
Round 6: Ch 1. Working in BLO, sc in next 23 sts. [Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. Sc in next 23 sts. [Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. Join. (82 sc)
Checkpoint: After Round 6, your oval base should measure approximately 12 inches long x 5 inches wide (30 cm x 13 cm). If it is larger, switch to a smaller hook. If smaller, switch to a larger hook.
Part 2: Bag Body (Sides)
From Round 7 onward, work in both loops unless otherwise stated. Work in continuous rounds without joining. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.
Round 7: Sc in each st around. (82 sc)
Rounds 8 through 30: Sc in each st around. (82 sc each round)
Work these 23 rounds of even sc for the bag walls. The body will be approximately 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) tall after Round 30, measured from the base transition.
Round 31: Sc in each st around. (82 sc)
Rounds 32 through 38: Sc in each st around. (82 sc each round)
After Round 38, the bag body (not including base) measures approximately 7 inches (18 cm) tall.
Round 39 (Handle Anchor Round): Mark 4 positions for the handle attachment rings, spaced evenly at the front center and back center top of the bag. Each handle pair should be positioned 6 sts apart.
The 82 sts break into four sections of approximately 20 sts (front), 1 st (corner), 20 sts (side), 1 st (corner), 20 sts (back), 1 st (corner), 19 sts (side), 1 st (corner). Mark the center 6 sts of the front 20 st section and center 6 sts of the back 20 st section as handle attachment zones.
Sc in each st around. (82 sc)
Rounds 40 and 41: Sc in each st around. (82 sc each round)
Round 42 (Top Edging): Sl st in each st around. Join and fasten off MC.
Checkpoint: The finished bag body before handles and motifs should measure approximately 10 inches (25 cm) tall from the flat base surface to the top edge, and approximately 26 inches (66 cm) in circumference at the opening.
Part 3: Top Handles (Make 2)
With MC, ch 45.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (44 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (44 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Do not turn. Work sc evenly along the long side edge, sc in each ch of the foundation chain, and sc evenly along the other long edge. Sl st to first sc of Row 3. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
The finished handle should measure approximately 9 inches (23 cm) long and 0.75 inches (2 cm) wide.
Repeat for second handle.
Attachment: Fold each handle so both short ends align. Position them at the marked handle zones on Round 39 of the bag opening (front and back center, each handle end 3 sts apart from its partner end). Sew firmly in place using MC yarn and tapestry needle, weaving through several rows of the bag body for security.
Part 4: Daisy Motif Panels (Make 4)
Each panel is a granny square with a daisy motif worked into it. Make 4 total, one for each side of the bag.
Daisy Motif Square Base
With MC, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 2 dc into ring. Ch 2. [3 dc into ring, ch 2] 3 times. Join with sl st to top of beg ch 3. (12 dc, 4 ch 2 corner sps)
Round 2: Sl st to corner ch 2 sp. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same corner sp [granny corner shell]. Ch 1. [Granny corner shell in next corner sp, ch 1] 3 times. Join with sl st to top of beg ch 3. (4 corner shells, 4 ch 1 sps)
Round 3: Sl st to corner ch 2 sp. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same corner sp. Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1. [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1] 3 times. Join. (4 corner shells, 8 side shells total, 12 ch 1 sps)
Round 4: Sl st to corner ch 2 sp. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same corner sp. [Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp] twice, ch 1. [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner sp, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) twice, ch 1] 3 times. Join with sl st to top of beg ch 3. (4 corner shells, 8 side shells, 16 ch 1 sps)
Round 5 (MC border round): Ch 1. Working around the entire square, sc in each dc st and 2 sc in each ch 1 sp and (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch 2 sp. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off MC.
Approximate finished size of the square: approximately 5.5 inches x 5.5 inches (14 cm x 14 cm).
(56 sc, 4 ch 2 corner sps)
Daisy Center (Make 4, One Per Panel)
With CB, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 10 sc into ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (10 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join. (20 sc) Fasten off CB.
Join CA to any st of Round 2.
Round 3 (Petals): Ch 1. [Work 1 sc in next st, ch 10, starting in 2nd ch from hook sl st in each of next 9 ch, sl st back into same base st as sc] 20 times. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off CA, leaving a long tail.
You now have 20 petals radiating from the golden center circle.
To tack petals: Thread a tapestry needle with CA. Bring the tip of every other petal outward and tack it lightly to the square panel at the point where it naturally lands. This creates the layered daisy appearance.
Assembling Motif onto Square
Center the daisy onto the daisy motif square (the MC granny square), aligning it over the center. Sew the CB/CA daisy ring firmly to the center of the square using the long CA tail. Position the outermost petal tips so they extend to roughly half the distance between the center and the outer edge of the square and tack each petal in place with a small stitch.
Attaching Panels to Bag Body
Position each finished motif panel on one side of the bag, centered horizontally, with the top edge of the panel approximately 2 rounds below the bag opening (approximately at Round 36 of the body). The bottom edge of the panel should sit approximately at Round 12 of the body. Using MC yarn and tapestry needle, whipstitch all 4 edges of each panel firmly to the bag body.
Part 5: Bobble Flower Cluster Embellishment
This decorative element is a cluster of 3 bobble flowers in MC, sewn together at their centers, with a cream tassel hanging below.
Bobble Flower (Make 3)
With MC, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as st). [Work 1 bobble st into ring, ch 1] 6 times. Join with sl st to top of first bobble. (6 bobbles, 6 ch 1 sps)
Round 2: Sl st into next ch 1 sp. Ch 2, 1 bobble in same sp. Ch 1. [1 bobble in next ch 1 sp, ch 1] 5 times. Join. Fasten off, leaving a tail. (6 bobbles, 6 ch 1 sps)
Each flower should measure approximately 1.5 inches (4 cm) in diameter.
Assembling Flower Cluster
Stack the 3 bobble flowers together with one on top and two side by side below it, forming a triangle grouping. Sew them together at their edges using MC yarn. Attach the cluster to the top right side of the bag at the base of the handle.
Cream Tassel
Cut 20 strands of CA, each 8 inches (20 cm) long.
Hold all strands together and fold in half. Use a separate 12 inch (30 cm) strand of CA to lash the bundle tightly approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the fold. Trim the tassel ends evenly to approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long.
Thread the folded loop end of the tassel through the base of the flower cluster and pull the tassel body through the loop to attach it using a lark’s head knot. The tassel should hang below the flower cluster approximately 3 to 4 inches (8 to 10 cm).
Part 6: Decorative Twisted Strap
This navy and white twisted rope strap attaches to the right side handle, draping diagonally across the bag front.
Cut 4 strands of MC and 4 strands of CA, each 36 inches (91 cm) long. Hold all 8 strands together alternating MC and CA. Follow the Twisted Rope Handle special stitch instructions to create a twisted rope approximately 16 inches (40 cm) long.
Tie an overhand knot at each end to secure. Thread one end through the base of the right handle and knot in place. Let the strap drape naturally toward the front right of the bag. Attach the lower end loosely to the right side of the bag at approximately Round 25, or leave it free hanging for a decorative effect.
Size Customization Tips
To make the bag taller: Add extra rounds in Part 2 between Rounds 30 and 38. Each additional round adds approximately 0.18 inches (4.5 mm) of height. Add them in pairs for visual balance.
To make the bag wider: Increase the foundation chain in Part 1 by 2 stitches per inch of width desired, and add corresponding increase points in Rounds 2 through 6 to keep the oval base proportional.
To make the bag larger overall: Scale up to a #5 bulky weight cotton yarn with a US J 10 (6.0 mm) hook. Gauge will shift to approximately 14 sc x 16 rows = 4 inches and the bag will finish approximately 25 percent larger.
To simplify: Omit the daisy panels and work the body in solid MC sc throughout. The construction and assembly steps for the body remain the same.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all yarn ends securely using a tapestry needle, running each tail in two opposite directions through the back of the work to prevent unraveling.
To block, fill the finished bag with plastic bags or a towel to hold its shape. Dampen the exterior lightly with a spray bottle of water. Gently shape the walls and base to be straight and even. Allow to dry completely at room temperature, which may take 24 hours for 100 percent cotton yarn.
If using the optional plastic canvas base insert, cut it to fit inside the base of the bag and place it flat at the bottom before loading the bag. It is not sewn in and can be removed for washing.
Care Instructions
Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cold water with a mild detergent, or hand wash in cool water. Lay flat or stuff with a towel to reshape, then air dry. Do not wring or twist. Do not tumble dry since cotton is prone to shrinkage under high heat. Store the bag stuffed lightly with tissue paper to maintain its bucket shape when not in use.
You Made It!
Thank you so much for choosing this daisy tote bag pattern. I really hope you love making it as much as I loved designing it. This bag is the kind of project that feels like a real accomplishment when you finish, and it is absolutely going to turn heads wherever you carry it.
If you make one, I would love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share your finished photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your creations honestly makes my entire day.
And if you want to come back to this pattern later, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start. I would also love to hear from you in the comments below. Let me know if you have any questions or just want to share how your tote turned out!
