Daisy Granny Square Blue Tote Bag Free Crochet Pattern

I call this one the Sunny Day Tote, and it has quite the backstory. About three years ago, I sketched this design in a beat-up notebook while sitting in my grandmother’s garden, surrounded by actual daisies swaying in the breeze. She had always carried a handmade bag to the farmer’s market, and I wanted to create something that captured that same cheerful, carefree energy.

Daisy Granny Square Blue Tote Bag Free Crochet Pattern

The notebook sat in a drawer for ages until last spring when I finally brought it to life. I made the first one for my sister’s birthday, and she immediately asked for the pattern. That was my sign that this design needed to be shared.

Now it’s your turn to make your own Sunny Day Tote. This crochet pattern combines the timeless charm of granny squares with bright, bold daisy motifs that practically radiate happiness. Whether you carry it to the beach, the library, or the grocery store, this bag is guaranteed to spark joy and probably a few compliments too.

Why You’ll Love This Daisy Granny Square Tote Bag Pattern

This project hits the sweet spot between interesting and achievable. You’re not just making basic granny squares. You’re building each one from the center out, starting with a golden yellow puff stitch center, adding white petal rounds, and finishing with that gorgeous royal blue border that ties everything together.

The construction keeps things engaging without overwhelming you. You’ll make twelve identical squares, join them into two panels, stitch those panels together, add a scalloped border along the bottom, and attach the straps. Each step builds on the last in a satisfying way.

The finished bag measures approximately 13 inches wide by 12 inches tall, not including the strap. That’s the perfect size for carrying your current project, a good book, your wallet, and still having room for spontaneous thrift store finds.

Skill Level and Time Investment

I’d rate this pattern as intermediate level. You should be comfortable working in the round, changing colors within a single motif, and joining pieces together. If you’ve made granny squares before and tackled at least one colorwork project, you’re ready for this.

Expect to spend approximately 15 to 22 hours on this project from start to finish. That includes making all twelve squares, joining them, working the border, and creating the straps. I like to spread it out over a couple of weeks, making a square or two each evening while watching something cozy on television.

Materials You’ll Need

Gather these supplies before you start. Having everything ready makes the process so much smoother.

Yarn (Worsted Weight, Category 4):

  • Color A (Royal Blue): approximately 300 yards
  • Color B (Golden Yellow): approximately 80 yards
  • Color C (White): approximately 120 yards
  • Total: approximately 500 yards
  • Hook: US size J / 6.0 mm crochet hook

    Notions:

  • Yarn needle for weaving ends
  • Scissors
  • 4 to 6 locking stitch markers
  • Optional: lining fabric and sewing supplies if you want to add an interior lining
  • Yarn Suggestions

    Any smooth, non-splitty worsted weight yarn will work beautifully here. Avoid fluffy or heavily textured yarns since they’ll hide your pretty petal definition.

    Some specific recommendations:

    1. Lion Brand Pound of Love (100% acrylic) offers excellent stitch definition and vibrant colors

    2. Paintbox Yarns Simply DK at a slightly looser tension gives a smooth, matte finish

    3. WeCrochet Brava Worsted (100% acrylic) is budget-friendly and machine washable

    Gauge

    One completed daisy granny square should measure 4.25 inches by 4.25 inches using your J hook and worsted weight yarn, measured after light blocking.

    Alternatively, 14 double crochet stitches by 8 rows should equal 4 inches by 4 inches in standard double crochet fabric.

    Please, please check your gauge before diving in. If your squares are too small, go up a hook size. Too large? Go down. This ensures your finished bag matches the stated dimensions.

    Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

    Let me walk you through every abbreviation used in this pattern. No surprises, I promise.

  • ch: chain
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops)
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • dc: double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops)
  • tr: treble crochet
  • sp: space
  • ch-sp: chain space
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • rep: repeat
  • RS: right side
  • WS: wrong side
  • yo: yarn over
  • rnd: round
  • sk: skip
  • BLO: back loop only
  • FLO: front loop only
  • Special Stitches

    These two techniques are the secret sauce of this pattern. Don’t skip this section.

    Puff Stitch (puff st)

    This creates those beautiful raised petals in the daisy center. Here’s how to work it:

    1. Yarn over, insert hook into the indicated stitch or space

    2. Yarn over and pull up a loop to the height of a double crochet (3 loops on hook)

    3. Yarn over again, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up another loop (5 loops on hook)

    4. Yarn over again, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up another loop (7 loops on hook)

    5. Yarn over and draw through all 7 loops on hook

    6. Chain 1 to close and secure the puff stitch

    Take your time with this one. The first few might feel awkward, but by your third or fourth daisy, you’ll be a puff stitch pro.

    Flat Slip Stitch Join

    This is how you’ll connect all your squares and panels. It creates a neat, slightly raised seam on the right side.

    Place two squares with right sides facing up. Insert your hook through the back loop of the corresponding stitch on both squares at the same time. Yarn over with your joining yarn and draw through both loops and the loop on your hook. Continue stitch by stitch across the edge.

    Scallop Stitch

    For the pretty border at the bottom of the bag: in the indicated stitch, work (sc, ch 2, 3 dc). This forms one complete scallop shell.

    Daisy Granny Square Instructions

    Make 12 squares total. Six for the front panel, six for the back.

    Round 1 (Color B, Golden Yellow)

    Make a magic ring (or chain 4 and join with slip stitch to form a ring).

    Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch).

    Work 8 sc into the ring.

    Join with slip stitch to first sc.

    Fasten off Color B, leaving a 4-inch tail.

    (8 sc)

    Round 2 (Color B, Golden Yellow)

    Join Color B to any stitch of Round 1.

    Chain 1.

    Work 2 sc in each stitch around.

    Join with slip stitch to first sc.

    (16 sc)

    Round 3 (Color C, White)

    This is where the magic happens. Drop Color B and join Color C to any stitch.

    Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch).

    Work 1 puff stitch in the same stitch as join. Chain 1 to close.

    Chain 1.

    Skip 1 stitch.

    (Puff stitch in next stitch, chain 1 to close, chain 1, skip 1 stitch) repeat around.

    Join with slip stitch to top of first puff stitch.

    Fasten off Color C.

    (8 puff stitches, 8 ch-1 spaces between petals)

    Round 4 (Color C, White)

    Join Color C to any ch-1 space between puff stitches.

    Chain 1.

    In the same ch-1 space: work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc). That’s one petal.

    In each remaining ch-1 space around: work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc).

    Join with slip stitch to first sc.

    Fasten off Color C.

    (8 petals, 40 stitches total)

    Checkpoint: Your daisy center should now be approximately 2 inches in diameter with 8 well-defined petals radiating from the golden center. Looking good? Let’s keep going.

    Round 5 (Color A, Royal Blue)

    Join Color A to the top dc (center stitch) of any petal.

    Chain 3 (counts as first dc).

    2 dc in same stitch.

    Chain 2 (corner chain-space).

    3 dc in same stitch. This completes your first corner.

    Important: Corners are placed at every other petal tip (petals 1, 3, 5, and 7).

    After completing the corner, work 1 dc in each of the remaining stitches of that petal and across the next non-corner petal, ending before the next corner petal tip. This gives you 9 dc along each side edge.

    At the next corner petal tip: work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

    Repeat this sequence for all 4 corners.

    Join with slip stitch to top of ch-3.

    (4 corners with ch-2 spaces, 9 dc along each side)

    Round 6 (Color A, Royal Blue)

    Slip stitch to first ch-2 corner space.

    Chain 3 (counts as dc).

    In same ch-2 space: work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). Corner 1 complete.

    Chain 1.

    Along each side: work 3 dc in the space between the next two dc clusters, then chain 1. Repeat this 3 times total (3 groups of 3 dc with ch-1 spaces between).

    At next ch-2 corner space: work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

    Repeat for all 4 corners.

    Join with slip stitch to top of ch-3.

    Fasten off Color A. Weave in all ends.

    Checkpoint: Each completed square should measure 4.25 inches by 4.25 inches. Block lightly by misting with water and pinning to measurements before joining.

    Joining Squares Into Panels

    You’ll create two panels: one front, one back. Each panel is a 2-column by 3-row grid of 6 squares.

    Lay out your squares before you start joining. I like to take a photo so I remember which goes where.

    Joining Squares Horizontally (Within Each Row)

    Hold two adjacent squares with right sides facing up.

    Join Color A to the corner ch-2 space of the right edge of the left square.

    Using the flat slip stitch join: insert hook through the ch-2 corner space of the left square and the corresponding ch-2 corner space of the right square simultaneously. Pull up a loop and slip stitch.

    Continue working slip stitch through the back loop of each corresponding dc stitch and through each ch-1 space along the shared edge.

    At the far corner ch-2 space, slip stitch through both corner spaces.

    Fasten off.

    Joining Rows Vertically

    Once you have 3 horizontal rows of 2 joined squares each, join the rows using the same flat slip stitch method.

    Work from left corner to right corner across the full width of the panel.

    Checkpoint: Each completed panel should measure approximately 8.5 inches wide by 12.75 inches tall.

    Joining Front and Back Panels

    Place front and back panels with wrong sides together and right sides facing outward.

    Join Color A to the top-right corner ch-2 space of one side edge.

    Work flat slip stitch join down the right side edge, across the bottom edge, and up the left side edge.

    Leave the top edge entirely open.

    At each bottom corner, work 3 slip stitches into the corner ch-2 spaces to turn neatly.

    Fasten off and weave in ends.

    Scalloped Border

    Join Color A to the bottom-left corner of the bag front.

    Round 1: Work sc evenly across the bottom edge, working into each slip stitch of the join seam. Work 3 sc into each bottom corner space. Target 60 sc across the bottom (adjust to nearest number divisible by 4).

    Round 2 (Scallop Round):

    Chain 1.

    Sc in first stitch.

    Skip 1 stitch.

    In next stitch: work (sc, ch 2, 3 dc). Scallop 1 complete.

    Skip 1 stitch.

    Sc in next stitch.

    Repeat (skip 1 stitch, scallop in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, sc in next stitch) across.

    End with sc in last stitch.

    Fasten off.

    (15 scallops)

    Strap Instructions

    Make 2 strap sections, each 22 inches long.

    Foundation: Chain 8.

    Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn. (7 sc)

    Row 2: Chain 1, sc in each stitch across. Turn. (7 sc)

    Repeat Row 2 until strap measures 22 inches.

    Optional finishing: Work 1 row of sc along each long edge to neaten.

    Strap Attachment

    Position one strap end at the top-left corner of the front panel, on the inside of the bag, overlapping approximately 1.5 inches down from the top edge.

    Sew securely using a box stitch pattern (stitch a rectangle, then sew an X within it for strength).

    Attach the other end to the top-right corner of the front panel.

    Repeat with the second strap on the back panel.

    Finishing and Care

    Weave in all remaining ends, burying tails at least 1 inch in two directions.

    For acrylic yarn, steam blocking works best. Hold your garment steamer 1 to 2 inches above the surface. Never press down directly.

    Care instructions: Machine wash gentle cycle in cold water. Lay flat to dry or tumble dry on low. Store stuffed loosely with tissue paper to maintain shape.

    Daisy Granny Square Blue Tote Bag Free Crochet Pattern

    Size Customization Tips

    Want a larger bag? Use a 3×3 grid (9 squares per panel) for a bag approximately 12.75 inches square. Add roughly 40 yards per additional square.

    Want a clutch? Try a 2×2 grid and shorten or skip the strap entirely.

    Thank you so much for choosing this daisy granny square tote bag crochet pattern for your next project. I truly hope you love making it as much as I loved designing it. If you give it a try, I’d absolutely love to see your finished bag. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your versions genuinely makes my day.

    If this pattern is calling your name but you’re not quite ready to start today, go ahead and pin it to your favorite Pinterest board so you can find it easily later. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I read every single comment and love hearing which color combinations you choose.

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