Okay, let’s talk about mandala crochet for a second. I know what you’re thinking. Those intricate circular designs with all the shells and arches look intimidating. Maybe you’ve scrolled past mandala patterns before because they seemed too complicated for your skill level. I’m here to tell you that if you can work a double crochet and count to twelve, you can absolutely make this bag.
The truth is, mandala crochet follows a logical rhythm. Once you complete the first few rounds and see the pattern emerging, everything clicks into place. Each round builds on the last in a way that actually makes sense. You’re not memorizing complicated sequences. You’re just repeating simple stitch groups around a circle.
This boho mandala tote with wooden handles breaks down into manageable chunks. You work two flat circles, join them together, add some structure rounds, and attach the handles. That’s it. The finished bag looks like something from a high-end boutique, but I promise the construction is more straightforward than it appears. Let’s walk through it together.
Why This Crochet Pattern Works So Well
The mandala medallion sits front and center on this tote, creating a stunning focal point that draws the eye. The combination of shell stitches, open lacework, and dense borders gives the design depth and visual interest without requiring advanced techniques. Everything here uses stitches you probably already know, just arranged in a beautiful way.
What I love most about this crochet tutorial is how the flat mandala transforms into a structured three-dimensional bag. The body rounds add density at the sides and base, so your tote holds its shape even when loaded with farmers market finds or beach day essentials. The wooden ring handles add that perfect bohemian touch while keeping the construction simple. No hardware, no zippers, no fussy closures.
The natural tan color mimics jute or raffia, giving the bag an organic, earthy feel. But you could easily work this in any color that speaks to you. A deep terracotta, soft sage, or crisp white would all look gorgeous.
Finished Size and Gauge Information
Your completed tote will measure approximately 14 inches wide by 13 inches tall, not including the handles. The handles add another 5 inches to the displayed height when you’re carrying it. The bag has a depth of about 3.5 inches at its widest point, giving you plenty of room for daily essentials.
Gauge is important for this project. After completing the first 5 rounds of the mandala motif, your work should measure approximately 4.5 inches in diameter. In single crochet (sc), aim for 13 stitches and 14 rows equaling a 4 inch square. If your gauge is off, your mandala will be the wrong size, which affects everything else. Adjust your hook size up or down until you hit these measurements.
Materials You’ll Need
Gather these supplies before you start:
Yarn: 3 skeins of bulky-weight yarn (weight category 5) in natural tan or sand color. You’ll need approximately 420 to 480 yards total. Cotton-blend or paper-raffia-style yarn works beautifully.
Hook: US size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook, or whatever size you need to achieve gauge.
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Ecru works well if you hold the yarn double throughout. You’ll need 3 skeins.
Paintbox Yarns Recycled Cotton Worsted in Stone is another solid choice, also held double. Grab 3 skeins.
Bobbiny Macrame Cord 3mm in Natural gives excellent structure and closely mimics that jute look. One 500-meter roll is plenty.
When substituting yarn, choose something smooth enough to slide through stitches easily but sturdy enough to hold the mandala shape. Cotton, paper, linen, jute, and recycled cotton blends all perform well. Avoid fuzzy or stretchy fibers.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me define every stitch before we dive into the step by step instructions:
ch: chain. Wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop on hook.
sl st: slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion.
sc: single crochet. Insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops.
hdc: half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops.
dc: double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.
tr: treble crochet. Yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, then yarn over and pull through two loops three times.
st(s): stitch(es)
sp(s): space(s)
sk: skip
rep: repeat
yo: yarn over
MR: magic ring. A technique for starting rounds that creates a tight, closed center.
blo: back loop only
flo: front loop only
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
pm: place marker
rnd: round
Special Stitches
Shell Stitch
Work 5 double crochets into the same stitch or space. This creates a fan-shaped group that forms the shell. You’ll use this constantly throughout the mandala portion.
Cluster (cl)
Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops. You now have 2 loops remaining on your hook.
Step 2: Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops. You now have 3 loops remaining on your hook.
Step 3: Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook. One cluster complete.
Picot
Chain 3, then slip stitch into the first chain you made. This creates a small decorative loop.
Standing Single Crochet
Make a slip knot and place it on your hook. Insert hook into the indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through both loops. This lets you start a new section of yarn without a joining chain.
Invisible Join
Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle. Insert the needle under both loops of the first stitch of the round from front to back. Pull through. Insert the needle down through the center of the last stitch you worked. Pull snug. This creates a seamless-looking join that’s nearly invisible.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. You’ll construct this bag in three phases: the mandala motif (rounds 1 through 14), the body shaping border (rounds 15 through 22), and the upper edge with handle attachment (rounds 23 through 27).
2. The mandala is worked in joined rounds. At the end of each round, join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting stitch, then chain as instructed to begin the next round. Do not turn unless I tell you to.
3. When joining rounds that begin with a double crochet, chain 3 counts as the first double crochet throughout.
4. You’ll make two identical panels through round 14, then join them at the sides and base in round 15 to form the three-dimensional bag body.
5. The wooden handles are not crocheted. You’ll attach them by folding the top edge over each ring and seaming it down.
6. Block your finished panels before joining them. Wet blocking helps the mandala lie flat and opens up the lace sections beautifully.
Boho Mandala Tote Crochet Pattern Instructions
Make 2 Panels (Front and Back Are Identical Through Round 14)
Round 1:
Start with a magic ring.
Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 11 dc into MR, pull ring closed, join with sl st to top of ch-3. (12 dc)
Round 2:
Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch-3. (24 dc)
Round 3:
Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] 11 times, join with sl st to top of ch-3. (36 dc)
Round 4:
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same st, ch 3, sk 2 sts, [sc in next st, ch 3, sk 2 sts] 11 times, join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-3 spaces)
Round 5:
Sl st into first ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 4 dc into same ch-3 sp (first shell made), ch 1, [shell of 5 dc into next ch-3 sp, ch 1] 11 times, join with sl st to top of ch-3. (12 shells, 12 ch-1 spaces)
Checkpoint: After round 5, your motif should measure approximately 4.5 inches in diameter. Adjust your hook size if needed before continuing.
Round 6:
Sl st across to ch-1 sp between first and second shell, ch 1, sc in same ch-1 sp, ch 5, [sc in next ch-1 sp between shells, ch 5] 11 times, join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-5 arches)
Round 7:
Sl st into first ch-5 arch, ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 6 dc into same arch (7 dc total in first arch), ch 1, [7 dc into next ch-5 arch, ch 1] 11 times, join with sl st to top of ch-3. (12 groups of 7 dc, 12 ch-1 spaces)
Round 8:
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same st as join, sc in next 2 dc, ch 3, sc in center (4th) dc of 7-dc group, ch 3, sc in next 3 dc, [sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sc in center dc, ch 3, sc in next 3 dc] 11 times, sl st to join (working last sc into ch-1 sp before the join). (84 sc, 24 ch-3 spaces)
Round 9:
Sl st across to first ch-3 sp, ch 4 (counts as dc plus ch 1), dc in same sp, ch 3, [dc, ch 1, dc] into next ch-3 sp (V-stitch made), ch 3, rep from first bracket 11 times (working V-stitch into each ch-3 sp, ch 3 between V-stitches), join with sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch-4. (24 V-stitches total, 24 ch-3 arches)
Round 10:
Sl st into first ch-1 sp of V-stitch, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc into same ch-1 sp (shell made), ch 2, sc into ch-3 arch between V-stitches in same pair, ch 2, [shell into ch-1 sp of next V-stitch, ch 2, sc into ch-3 arch, ch 2, shell into ch-1 sp of next V-stitch, ch 3, shell into ch-1 sp of next V-stitch, ch 2, sc into ch-3 arch, ch 2] 11 times, shell into ch-1 sp of last V-stitch, ch 3, join with sl st to top of ch-3. (24 shells, 24 ch-2 spaces, 12 sc, 12 ch-3 spaces)
Round 11:
Sl st to center (3rd) dc of first shell, ch 1, sc in same st, ch 4, sc in sc between shells of pair, ch 4, sc in center dc of next shell, ch 5 (crosses the ch-3 arch between pairs), [sc in center dc of next shell, ch 4, sc in sc, ch 4, sc in center dc of next shell, ch 5] 11 times, join with sl st to first sc. (36 sc, 24 ch-4 arches, 12 ch-5 arches)
Round 12:
Sl st into first ch-4 arch, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same arch (shell), ch 1, shell in next ch-4 arch, ch 2, sc in ch-5 arch, ch 2, [shell in next ch-4 arch, ch 1, shell in next ch-4 arch, ch 2, sc in ch-5 arch, ch 2] 11 times, join with sl st to top of ch-3. (24 shells, 12 ch-1 spaces, 24 ch-2 spaces, 12 sc)
Round 13:
Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc in same st as join, sc in next 4 dc (across first shell), sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next 5 dc (across second shell), 2 sc in each of next 2 ch-2 spaces with sc in center sc [work as: sc in ch-2 sp, sc in sc, sc in ch-2 sp], [sc across next 5 dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc across next 5 dc, sc in ch-2 sp, sc in sc, sc in ch-2 sp] 11 times, join with sl st to first sc. (168 sc)
Round 14 (Border Round):
Ch 1, sc in each sc around, working 3 sc into any noticeable corner-pull points to keep work flat. Do not add extra stitches unless the motif is pulling. Join with sl st to first sc. (168 sc)
Checkpoint: After round 14, each panel should measure approximately 12 to 13 inches in diameter and lie completely flat. Wet block both panels now before continuing to body construction.
Body Construction
Joining the Panels (Round 15)
Hold both panels with wrong sides facing each other. The right sides should face outward on both panels. You’ll join them along the lower three-quarters of the circumference, leaving the upper quarter open for the bag opening.
Mark the 42nd stitch from center-top on both the left and right sides. These markers define your top opening. The remaining 84 stitches of each panel (the bottom half) will be joined together.
With RS of front panel facing you, join yarn with a sl st to the right marker stitch.
Working through both layers, sc through both layers in each st across the bottom 84 stitches to the left marker. (84 sc joining seam)
Do not fasten off. Continue sc along the top edge of the front panel from left marker to right marker: sc in each of the 84 sts across the top opening edge of the front panel. (84 sc)
Join with sl st to first joining sc. (168 sc total)
Now work separately along the top edge of the back panel: attach yarn to left marker stitch of back panel top edge, sc in each of the 84 sts across the top edge of back panel to right marker. Fasten off. (84 sc on back top edge)
Round 16 (Sides and Base Density Round):
Sc in each sc around the full perimeter. (168 sc)
Round 17:
Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next 2 sts] around to last st, ch 1, sk last st, join with sl st to top of ch-3. (112 dc, 56 ch-1 spaces)
Round 18:
Sl st into first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp] around, end ch 3, join with sl st to first sc. (56 sc, 56 ch-3 arches)
Round 19:
Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in same ch-3 arch, [3 dc in next ch-3 arch] around, join with sl st to top of ch-3. (168 dc)
Round 20:
Ch 1, sc in each dc around, join with sl st to first sc. (168 sc)
Round 21:
Sc in each sc around. (168 sc)
Round 22:
Sc in each sc around. (168 sc)
Checkpoint: After round 22, your joined bag body should measure approximately 13 inches tall from the base seam to the top edge and approximately 14 inches wide when laid flat.
Top Edge and Handle Attachment
Round 23 (Top Edge Stabilization):
Ch 1, sc in each sc across top of front panel (84 sc), then sc in each sc across top of back panel (84 sc), working both top edges as a single joined round. Join with sl st to first sc. (168 sc)
Round 24:
Ch 1, sc blo in each sc around. (168 sc)
Round 25:
Ch 1, sc in each sc around. (168 sc)
This creates a firm triple-layer top band that’s rigid enough to fold over the wooden handles.
Round 26 (Handle Placement Round):
Divide the top edge into two halves of 84 stitches each. Each half will wrap over one wooden handle ring.
For the front handle: Hold the first wooden ring against the inside top edge of the front panel, centered across the 84 front stitches. Fold the top band over the ring to the inside. Using your yarn needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch or slip stitch through the folded edge, catching the stitches of round 22 on the inside. Work across all 84 stitches, securing the ring firmly inside the folded casing.
Repeat for the back handle using the back panel’s 84 stitches.
Round 27 (Optional Picot Finish):
If you want a decorative edge along the visible fold line at the handle attachment, join yarn at the corner of the handle attachment. [Sc in next 2 sts, picot (ch 3, sl st in first ch)] across each side. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Size Customization Tips
To make the bag wider: Add 12 more stitches evenly in round 13. Every 12 stitches added at this stage adds approximately 1.5 inches to the circumference.
To make the bag taller: After round 22, add additional rounds of sc before beginning the handle attachment rounds. Each round of sc adds approximately 0.5 inches of height.
To make the bag shallower: Skip rounds 17 and 18 and work rounds 19 onward directly after round 16.
To use larger wooden handles (6 inch rings): Work 4 rows of the top band instead of 3 to give more casing depth before folding.
To make a mini version: Use weight 3 DK yarn with a US size G-6 (4.0 mm) hook. Your finished bag will be approximately 9 inches wide by 8 inches tall.
Finishing Your Boho Mandala Tote
Weave in all yarn tails securely using your yarn needle. Bury tails through multiple stitches in different directions to prevent unraveling.
Blocking: Wet both panels thoroughly with cool water before joining. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Lay flat on a blocking mat and pin to dimensions of 12.5 inches diameter. Allow to dry completely, which takes 12 to 24 hours. This step is essential for the mandala to lie flat and for the lace sections to open fully.
After assembly and handle attachment, lightly mist the finished bag with water and reshape. Stuff with tissue paper or a towel to hold the bag’s 3D shape while it dries.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with gentle detergent. Do not machine wash. Reshape while damp and allow to air dry flat or hung over a towel rack. Do not tumble dry or iron directly on the crochet. If the bag stretches over time from heavy use, wet block it back to shape. Store stuffed with tissue paper to maintain the bag’s structure. Keep away from prolonged direct sunlight to prevent color fading.
You’ve Got This
Thank you so much for choosing this boho mandala tote crochet pattern for your next project. I genuinely hope the step by step breakdown made this design feel achievable, because it truly is. Once you get into the rhythm of those shell rounds, the mandala almost seems to crochet itself. I’d love to see your finished bags, so please tag me on Instagram or share your photos in our Facebook group.
If this pattern caught your eye, go ahead and pin it to your crochet board on Pinterest so you can find it when you’re ready to cast on. And if you make one, drop a comment below. I love hearing which yarn colors you choose and seeing how the mandala turns out in your hands. Happy crocheting!
