When I sat down to design this bag, I had a clear vision in my head. I wanted something that felt nostalgic and fresh at the same time. Something that combined the classic granny square construction my grandmother taught me with a modern, cheerful daisy motif that would make people smile.
I also wanted it to be practical. A bag you could actually use for farmers market runs, beach days, or just carrying your current project around. The structure needed to hold up, the size needed to be just right, and the whole thing needed to look like you spent way more time on it than you actually did.
I am SO pleased with how this turned out. The raised puff stitch daisies pop beautifully against that sky blue background, and the construction is way more straightforward than it looks. If you can make a granny square and you are ready to try something a little more decorative, this is your project.
Why You Will Love This Crochet Tote Bag Pattern
This daisy granny square tote bag hits that sweet spot between impressive and achievable. Each square features a textured center made with puff stitches, surrounded by chunky white petals, all framed in a classic granny square border. When you join them together, the seams create this gorgeous diagonal pattern that makes the bag look like it belongs in a boutique.
The bag uses DK weight cotton yarn, which gives it structure and durability. Cotton holds its shape beautifully and gets softer with every wash. Plus, it is perfect for a bag that might carry groceries, books, or your latest yarn haul.
At approximately 13 inches wide by 12 inches tall with a 3 inch gusset, this tote is genuinely useful. Not too big, not too small. The shoulder strap sits comfortably and the rounded silhouette is flattering whether you wear it on your shoulder or carry it by hand.
Skill Level
This pattern is rated intermediate. You should be comfortable working in the round, reading multi-part motif instructions, and maintaining consistent tension across many identical pieces.
Here is the good news though. If you have made granny squares before, you already have most of the skills you need. The only new technique might be the puff stitch, and I will walk you through that step by step below.
The main challenge is not difficulty. It is consistency. You will make 30 identical squares, so keeping your tension even matters. Take your time with the first few squares until you find your rhythm.
Time Estimate
Plan for approximately 25 to 35 hours of work, depending on your speed and how much TV you watch while crocheting. That breaks down to roughly 30 to 45 minutes per square, plus assembly and finishing time.
This is a wonderful project to work on over several weeks. Make a few squares each evening, and before you know it, you will have a pile ready to join.
Finished Measurements
Bag body: approximately 13 inches wide by 12 inches tall (33 cm by 30.5 cm), not including the strap
Strap: approximately 24 inches (61 cm) long from the top of the bag to the highest point of the strap loop
Gusset depth: approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm)
Materials Needed
Yarn
You will need DK weight cotton yarn in three colors:
Recommended Yarn Brands
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Dusty Blue, Rose, and White works beautifully here. It has excellent stitch definition and consistent color across dye lots.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in Washed Denim, Dusty Rose, and Paper White is another great choice. It is a smooth cotton-acrylic blend that holds its shape well after blocking.
We Are Knitters The Petite Wool (cotton blend version) in similar colorways gives you a slightly softer hand with a subtle sheen that makes the petals look extra lovely.
A note on substitutions: Stick with smooth yarns that have low stretch. Avoid anything fluffy or textured because it will hide your beautiful puff stitches. Always swatch first.
Hook
US size E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook, or whatever size you need to match gauge.
Additional Supplies
Gauge
One completed daisy granny square = 4 inches by 4 inches (10 cm by 10 cm) after light blocking.
Single crochet gauge: 18 sc and 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) with E-4 hook.
The square gauge is the most important measurement here. If your squares are consistently larger, go down a hook size. If they are smaller, go up. Take the time to check this before making all 30 squares.
Abbreviations Used (US Terms)
Let me break down every abbreviation you will see in this pattern:
Special Stitches
Puff Stitch (ps)
This stitch creates the textured, raised center of each daisy. It looks complicated but it is just a matter of building up loops and pulling through them all at once.
1. Yarn over, insert your hook into the indicated stitch or space.
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop to the height of a double crochet. You now have 3 loops on your hook.
3. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch or space again.
4. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 5 loops on your hook.
5. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch or space a third time.
6. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 7 loops on your hook.
7. Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops at once. One loop remains on your hook.
8. Chain 1 to close the puff stitch. This chain does NOT count as a stitch.
The key is pulling up your loops to a consistent height each time. Too tight and your puff will be flat. Too loose and it will be floppy. Practice a few before starting your first square.
Petal Stitch
This creates the white daisy petals in Round 2.
1. Slip stitch into the ch-1 space at the top of a puff stitch.
2. Chain 1, then work 5 double crochets into the same ch-1 space.
3. Slip stitch into the same ch-1 space to close the petal.
Work all 5 dc loosely for best results. You want the petal to puff out and look rounded, not cramped.
Granny Cluster
Work 3 double crochets into the indicated space. This counts as one granny cluster. You will use these in Rounds 3 and 4 to build the square frame around your daisy.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. You will make 30 daisy granny squares total: 12 for the front panel, 12 for the back panel, and 6 for the gusset strip.
2. Each square has 4 rounds. Rounds 1 and 2 create the daisy. Round 3 adds the white frame. Round 4 completes the blue granny square border.
3. All rounds are worked on the right side. Do not turn at the end of rounds unless I specifically tell you to.
4. Chain 3 at the beginning of a dc round counts as your first dc throughout this pattern.
5. When you fasten off between colors, leave a 6 inch tail for weaving in later. Weave all ends into the wrong side before final assembly.
6. The squares in the photo look like they are set on point (rotated 45 degrees), but they are actually joined in a standard grid. The diagonal appearance comes from the natural lines of the granny square pattern itself.
Daisy Granny Square Instructions
Make 30 total.
Use Color B (dusty rose) for Rounds 1 and 2.
Use Color C (white) for Round 3.
Use Color A (sky blue) for Round 4.
Round 1
With Color B, make a magic ring (or chain 4 and slip stitch to form a ring if you prefer).
Chain 1. This does not count as a stitch.
Work 8 puff stitches into the ring, placing a ch-1 closing at the top of each puff stitch.
After the 8th puff stitch, slip stitch to the top of the first puff stitch to join.
(8 puff stitches, 8 ch-1 spaces)
Round 2
Do not cut your yarn. Slip stitch into the first ch-1 space.
Work one petal stitch into each ch-1 space around as follows:
Into each ch-1 space: slip stitch, chain 1, 5 dc, slip stitch.
After completing the 8th petal, slip stitch to the base of the first petal to join.
Fasten off Color B.
(8 petals, each containing 5 dc)
Round 3
Join Color C with a slip stitch to any slip stitch join between two petals.
Chain 3. This counts as your first dc.
Work 2 dc into the same space. Your first cluster is complete.
Chain 2.
Now you will work around the square, treating 4 of the petal joins as corners and 4 as sides. The 8 petals create 8 join points. Designate every other join point as a corner.
At corner join points (4 total): Work 3 dc, ch 2.
At side join points (4 total): Work 3 dc, ch 1.
Work around as follows, starting at a corner join:
(3 dc, ch 2) into corner join, (3 dc, ch 1) into side join.
Repeat this sequence 3 more times around.
Slip stitch to the top of the ch-3 (beginning dc) to join.
Fasten off Color C.
(4 corner ch-2 spaces, 4 side ch-1 spaces, 8 granny clusters of 3 dc each)
Round 4
Join Color A with a slip stitch into any corner ch-2 space.
Chain 3. This counts as your first dc.
Work 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc into the same corner ch-2 space. Your first corner cluster pair is complete.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc into the ch-1 side space.
Chain 1.
Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the next corner ch-2 space.
Chain 1.
Work 3 dc into the next ch-1 side space.
Chain 1.
Repeat the (corner cluster pair, ch 1, side cluster, ch 1) sequence 2 more times around.
Slip stitch to the top of the ch-3 to join.
Fasten off Color A. Leave a long tail on squares you plan to join using JAYG.
(4 corner ch-2 spaces, 8 side clusters of 3 dc, 12 clusters total)
Checkpoint
Each completed square should measure 4 inches by 4 inches (10 cm by 10 cm) when lightly blocked. Adjust your hook size if needed before making all 30 squares.
Assembly Instructions
Step 1: Arranging Your Squares
Lay out your squares on a flat surface with right sides facing up.
Front panel: 12 squares in a 3 column by 4 row grid.
Back panel: 12 squares in a 3 column by 4 row grid.
Gusset strip: 6 squares in a 1 column by 6 row strip.
Step 2: Joining Squares Within Panels
You can join squares using the join as you go (JAYG) method while working Round 4 of each new square, or you can use the flat slip stitch join after all squares are complete.
JAYG Method:
When working Round 4 of a new square that shares an edge with a completed neighbor:
At each ch-1 side space along the shared edge, replace the ch 1 with: slip stitch into the corresponding ch-1 side space of the neighboring square, then continue.
At each ch-2 corner space along the shared edge, replace the ch 2 with: ch 1, slip stitch into the corresponding ch-2 corner space of the neighboring square, ch 1.
Flat Slip Stitch Join (for already completed squares):
Hold two squares with wrong sides together and right sides facing out.
Join yarn in the corner ch-2 space.
Working through both layers, single crochet across the shared edge, inserting your hook into corresponding spaces of both squares simultaneously.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Join all 12 front squares into a 3×4 grid.
Join all 12 back squares into a 3×4 grid.
Join all 6 gusset squares into a 1×6 strip.
Step 3: Joining Front and Back to Gusset
The gusset strip runs along the bottom of the bag and up both short sides.
Assign 2 squares to the left side gusset, 2 squares to the bottom gusset, and 2 squares to the right side gusset.
With right sides together (wrong side of bag facing out during joining), single crochet join the left edge of the front panel to the left side of the gusset strip. Then join the bottom edge of the front panel to the bottom of the gusset. Then join the right edge of the front panel to the right side of the gusset.
Repeat for the back panel, joining it to the opposite edges of the gusset strip.
Turn right side out.
Assembly Checkpoint
Your bag body should now measure approximately 13 inches wide by 12 inches tall by 3 inches deep. The top opening will be slightly V-shaped at the center front and back.
Top Border Instructions
Join Color A with a slip stitch at one top corner of the bag, right side facing.
Round 1: Chain 1. This does not count as a stitch. Work 1 sc into each dc, 1 sc into each ch-1 space, and 2 sc into each ch-2 corner space around the entire top opening. Slip stitch to first sc to join. Count your stitches and write down the number.
You should have approximately 80 to 90 sc depending on your exact join placement.
Round 2: Chain 1. Single crochet in each sc around. Slip stitch to first sc to join. (Same count as Round 1.)
Round 3: Chain 1. Single crochet in each sc around. Slip stitch to first sc to join. (Same count as Round 1.)
Fasten off Color A. Join Color C with a slip stitch.
Round 4: Chain 1. Single crochet in each sc around. Slip stitch to first sc to join. (Same count as Round 1.)
Fasten off Color C. Weave in ends.
Shoulder Strap Instructions
The strap is worked as a long, narrow flat strip.
Foundation chain: With Color A, chain 121.
Row 1 (RS): Single crochet in the 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn. (120 sc)
Row 2: Chain 1. Single crochet in each sc across. Turn. (120 sc)
Row 3: Chain 1. Single crochet in each sc across. Turn. (120 sc)
Row 4: Chain 1. Single crochet in each sc across. Turn. (120 sc)
Do not fasten off Color A.
Strap Edging
Join Color C at one short end.
Work 1 sc in each sc across the long top edge (120 sc), 3 sc in the corner, 4 sc along the short end, 3 sc in the corner, 1 sc in each sc across the long bottom edge (120 sc), 3 sc in the corner, 4 sc along the other short end, 3 sc in corner.
Slip stitch to first sc to join. Fasten off Color C. Weave in ends.
(Approximately 258 sc around the perimeter)
Attaching the Strap
Position the strap so each short end sits at the top inner corner of the bag. One end goes at the front-left top corner, the other at the front-right top corner. The strap loops over the back of the bag.
Using Color A and your yarn needle, sew each strap end securely to the corresponding top corner. Stitch through at least 8 to 10 sc on the strap and 8 to 10 corresponding stitches on the bag top border.
The attachment point should align with the junction of the first and second squares from each top corner.
Reinforce by sewing through the layers a second time in a box stitch pattern.
Strap Checkpoint
The completed strap should measure approximately 24 inches (61 cm) from the top of the bag to the top of the strap loop.
Size Customization Options
For a smaller bag (approximately 10 inches wide by 9 inches tall):
Use a 2×3 grid per side (6 squares per panel, 4 gusset squares). Reduce the strap foundation chain to 97 stitches. Your yardage will decrease by approximately 30 percent.
For a larger bag (approximately 16 inches wide by 14 inches tall):
Use a 4×4 grid per side (16 squares per panel, 8 gusset squares). Extend the strap foundation chain to 145 stitches. Increase Color A yardage to approximately 550 yards.
To make larger squares:
Add a Round 5 in Color A on each square. Work (3 dc cluster, ch 1) on sides and (3 dc cluster, ch 2) on corners. This increases each square by approximately 0.75 inches per side. Adjust your yardage by approximately 20 percent.
Finishing and Blocking
1. Weave in all remaining yarn ends securely on the wrong side of the work.
2. Fill a basin with cool water and a small amount of wool wash or gentle soap. Submerge the finished bag and gently press to saturate.
3. Remove and press out excess water without wringing. Roll in a clean towel and press again.
4. Pin the bag to a foam blocking mat or lay flat on a clean surface. Shape each square to 4 inches by 4 inches. Make sure the bag body is square and the top opening is even.
5. Allow to dry completely. This takes at least 24 hours.
Optional Lining
Cut two pieces of fabric to 13.5 by 12.5 inches and one gusset strip to 3.5 by 13.5 inches. Sew with a 0.25 inch seam allowance, press seams, and hand stitch the lining into the bag along the top border with a whip stitch.
Care Instructions
Machine wash on a delicate or gentle cycle in cold water if using cotton or cotton-blend yarn. Place the bag inside a mesh laundry bag for protection.
Alternatively, hand wash in cool water with gentle soap.
Do not tumble dry. Reshape and lay flat to dry.
Do not iron directly on the puff stitches or petals. The heat will flatten your beautiful texture.
Store folded or hanging to maintain shape.
Final Thoughts on This Daisy Granny Square Crochet Pattern
This tote bag is one of those projects that looks incredibly impressive but builds on techniques you probably already know. The puff stitch daisies add just enough of a learning curve to keep things interesting, and the final result is something you will genuinely want to use every day.
I hope you love making this as much as I loved designing it. Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project.
If you make this daisy granny square tote bag, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your finished projects is honestly one of the best parts of sharing patterns.
Do not forget to save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start. And if you make this bag, please leave a comment below. I love hearing how your projects turn out and seeing which color combinations you choose.
