Dragon Fruit Bat Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

I don’t know about you, but I have a serious weakness for amigurumi that makes people do a double take. The kind of project that sits on a shelf and starts conversations. The kind that makes someone lean in and say, "Wait, is that a bat made of fruit?"

Dragon Fruit Bat Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

This dragon fruit bat is exactly that kind of project. It combines two things that have no business being together, and somehow the result is absolutely adorable. A chubby little bat with wings that look like sliced dragon fruit, complete with embroidered seeds and leafy green accents.

If you have been looking for a pattern that lets you flex some intermediate skills while creating something genuinely unique, this is your project. The construction is satisfying, the finished piece is stunning, and you will absolutely want to make more than one.

About This Dragon Fruit Bat Crochet Pattern

This amigurumi pattern creates a seated bat approximately 6 inches tall by 9 inches wide with wings spread. The body mimics the bumpy pink exterior of a dragon fruit, while the spread wings reveal the white flesh interior with those distinctive black seeds. Green leaf clusters top the head like a crown and accent each wing tip.

The body and head are worked as one continuous piece using the amigurumi method, which means you work in continuous rounds without joining or turning. This creates a seamless spiral that gives your finished piece a clean professional look. The wings are the only flat pieces, worked in rows with color changes to create that beautiful fruit cross-section effect.

This pattern sits at an intermediate skill level. You should feel comfortable working in continuous rounds, maintaining consistent tension, changing colors within flat panels, and sewing amigurumi pieces together neatly. If you have completed at least two amigurumi projects and one color change project, you can absolutely tackle this with patience.

Expect to spend approximately 8 to 12 hours total, spread across multiple sessions. The wings take the longest due to the colorwork and seed embroidery. But trust me, the time investment is worth every minute.

Materials Needed

Yarn:

  • Color A (Magenta/Deep Pink): Approximately 180 yards of worsted weight yarn for the dragon fruit exterior
  • Color B (White/Off-White): Approximately 60 yards of worsted weight yarn for the dragon fruit flesh
  • Color C (Medium Green): Approximately 25 yards of worsted weight yarn for leaf accents
  • Black embroidery floss or thin black yarn for seed details
  • Hook: US size G/6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook

    Additional Supplies:

  • Two 9 mm black safety eyes
  • Polyester fiberfill stuffing, approximately 1.5 oz
  • Yarn needle with blunt tip and large eye
  • At least 3 stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Straight pins for assembly
  • Optional: small piece of cardboard to stiffen wings during construction
  • Yarn Suggestions

    Lion Brand Pound of Love in Rose and White works beautifully here. It has excellent stitch definition for amigurumi and comes in large quantities so your magenta will not run short. Pair with Lion Brand Basic Stitch in Grass for the green.

    Paintbox Yarns Simply DK is another great choice if you work at a tighter tension with the G hook or drop down to an F/5 (3.75 mm) hook. Their Lipstick Pink, White, and Grass Green match this design closely.

    Caron Simply Soft in Berry, White, and Leaf is widely available and easy to sew through during assembly.

    Whatever you choose, avoid fuzzy or hairy fibers like mohair blends. They obscure stitch definition and make counting a nightmare. Stick to smooth worsted weight or heavy DK yarn.

    Gauge

    5 single crochet stitches by 5 rows equals 1 inch (2.5 cm) when worked in continuous rounds with a G/6 (4.0 mm) hook. This translates to 18 single crochet by 22 rounds equaling 4 inches (10 cm).

    Gauge matters here. It ensures your finished bat is the correct size and that your fabric is tight enough to hide the stuffing inside. If your gauge is off, adjust your hook size up or down until you match.

    Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

    Before we dive into the pattern, let me walk you through every abbreviation you will encounter. I am defining them all upfront so you can reference this section anytime you need a refresher.

  • sc (single crochet): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. One stitch complete.
  • inc (increase): Work 2 single crochet stitches into the same stitch. This adds one stitch to your count.
  • dec (invisible decrease): Insert hook into the front loop only of the next stitch. Without completing that stitch, insert hook into the front loop only of the following stitch. You now have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through both front loops (2 loops remain). Yarn over and pull through both remaining loops. This consumes 2 stitches and produces 1 stitch.
  • ch (chain): Yarn over, pull through the loop on your hook. This creates one chain stitch.
  • sl st (slip stitch): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on hook in one motion.
  • MR (magic ring): An adjustable loop that allows you to close the center of your work tightly. Make a loop with the tail crossing behind the working yarn, insert hook through loop, yarn over with working yarn, pull up a loop, chain 1 to secure. Work your stitches into the ring, then pull the tail to close.
  • hdc (half double crochet): Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
  • BLO (back loop only): Work into only the back loop of the stitch instead of both loops.
  • FLO (front loop only): Work into only the front loop of the stitch.
  • st(s) (stitch/stitches)
  • rnd(s) (round/rounds)
  • RS (right side): The outer/public facing side of your work.
  • WS (wrong side): The inner/hidden side of your work.
  • pm (place marker)
  • rep (repeat)
  • Numbers in parentheses at the end of each round indicate your total stitch count. Numbers in brackets indicate a sequence to be repeated.

    Pattern Instructions

    Body and Head (Make 1, Color A)

    The body begins at the bottom and is worked upward in one continuous piece. Always use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless instructed.

    Rnd 1: MR, work 6 sc into ring, pull ring closed. (6)

    Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)

    Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] rep 6 times. (18)

    Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] rep 6 times. (24)

    Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] rep 6 times. (30)

    Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] rep 6 times. (36)

    Rnds 7 through 11: Sc in each st around. (36)

    Rnd 12: [Sc 4, dec] rep 6 times. (30)

    Rnd 13: Sc in each st around. (30)

    Rnd 14: [Sc 3, dec] rep 6 times. (24)

    Begin stuffing the body firmly now. Continue adding small amounts of stuffing every few rounds rather than all at once.

    Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (24)

    Rnd 16: [Sc 2, inc] rep 6 times. (30)

    Rnd 17: [Sc 4, inc] rep 6 times. (36)

    Rnd 18: [Sc 5, inc] rep 6 times. (42)

    Rnds 19 through 22: Sc in each st around. (42)

    Checkpoint: After Rnd 21, the head circumference should measure approximately 8.5 to 9 inches around.

    Safety Eye Installation: Place eyes between Rnds 19 and 20, approximately 7 to 8 stitches apart on the front center of the face. Lock the washers firmly on the inside before continuing.

    Rnd 23: [Sc 5, dec] rep 6 times. (36)

    Rnd 24: [Sc 4, dec] rep 6 times. (30)

    Rnd 25: [Sc 3, dec] rep 6 times. (24)

    Add final stuffing now, filling the head firmly.

    Rnd 26: [Sc 2, dec] rep 6 times. (18)

    Rnd 27: [Sc 1, dec] rep 6 times. (12)

    Rnd 28: [Dec] rep 6 times. (6)

    Fasten off, leaving a 6 inch tail. Thread on a yarn needle, weave through the 6 remaining front loops, pull tight to close, and weave in the end on the inside.

    Ears (Make 2, Color A)

    Rnd 1: MR, work 6 sc into ring, pull ring closed. (6)

    Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)

    Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] rep 6 times. (18)

    Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (18)

    Rnd 5: [Sc 1, dec] rep 6 times. (12)

    Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (12)

    Rnd 7: [Dec] rep 6 times. (6)

    Do not stuff. Flatten the opening and pinch the top slightly to give a rounded triangular ear shape. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

    Arms (Make 2, Color A)

    Rnd 1: MR, work 5 sc into ring, pull ring closed. (5)

    Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (10)

    Rnds 3 through 5: Sc in each st around. (10)

    Rnd 6: [Sc 3, dec] rep 2 times. (8)

    Do not stuff. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Flatten the opening.

    Tail (Make 1, Color A)

    Ch 8.

    Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 7. (7)

    Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc 7. (7)

    Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc 2, dec, sc 1, dec. (5)

    Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc 5. (5)

    Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, dec, sc 2. (4)

    Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc 4. (4)

    Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, dec, sc 1. (3)

    Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc 3. (3)

    Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, dec. (2)

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Fold in half lengthwise and whipstitch the long edge closed to form a small cone.

    Leg Nubs (Make 2, Color A)

    Rnd 1: MR, work 5 sc into ring. (5)

    Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (10)

    Rnds 3 and 4: Sc in each st around. (10)

    Fasten off with a long tail. Do not stuff. Flatten.

    Wings (Make 2, Colors A and B)

    Each wing is worked flat in rows. The white section represents dragon fruit flesh while the magenta forms the skin border. After completing the panel, you will add surface vein lines and embroider seeds.

    Wing Panel:

    With Color A, ch 21.

    Row 1 (RS): Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 20. (20)

    Rows 2 and 3: Ch 1, turn, sc 20. (20)

    Rows 4 through 8: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 in Color A, change to Color B, sc 16 in Color B, change to Color A, sc 2 in Color A. (20)

    Row 9: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 1 in Color A, sc 14 in Color B, sc 1 in Color A, dec. (18)

    Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 in Color A, sc 14 in Color B, sc 2 in Color A. (18)

    Row 11: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 1 in Color A, sc 12 in Color B, sc 1 in Color A, dec. (16)

    Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 in Color A, sc 12 in Color B, sc 2 in Color A. (16)

    Row 13: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 1 in Color A, sc 10 in Color B, sc 1 in Color A, dec. (14)

    Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 in Color A, sc 10 in Color B, sc 2 in Color A. (14)

    Row 15: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 1 in Color A, sc 8 in Color B, sc 1 in Color A, dec. (12)

    Row 16: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 in Color A, sc 8 in Color B, sc 2 in Color A. (12)

    Row 17: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 1 in Color A, sc 6 in Color B, sc 1 in Color A, dec. (10)

    Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 in Color A, sc 6 in Color B, sc 2 in Color A. (10)

    Row 19: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 1 in Color A, sc 4 in Color B, sc 1 in Color A, dec. (8)

    Row 20: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 in Color A, sc 4 in Color B, sc 2 in Color A. (8)

    Row 21: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 1 in Color A, sc 2 in Color B, sc 1 in Color A, dec. (6)

    Row 22: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 in Color A, sc 2 in Color B, sc 2 in Color A. (6)

    Row 23: Ch 1, turn, dec in Color A, sc 2 in Color B, dec in Color A. (4)

    Row 24: Ch 1, turn, sc 1 in Color A, sc 2 in Color B, sc 1 in Color A. (4)

    Row 25: Ch 1, turn, sc 1 in Color A, dec in Color B, sc 1 in Color A. (3)

    Row 26: Ch 1, turn, sc 3 in Color A. (3)

    Row 27: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 1. (2)

    Row 28: Ch 1, turn, sc 2. (2)

    Row 29: Ch 1, turn, dec. (1)

    Fasten off Color A with a long tail.

    Wing Edging: With Color A, join yarn at the bottom right corner of the wing. Work a single crochet border around the outer edges, placing 1 sc per row end on diagonal edges and 1 sc per stitch along top and bottom. At the pointed tip, work 1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc to turn the corner neatly. Do not edge the straight attachment edge. Slip stitch to join, fasten off.

    Checkpoint: Each wing panel should measure approximately 3.5 inches tall by 4 inches wide.

    Wing Vein Lines: With Color A, work surface slip stitches from the center bottom of each wing diagonally toward each upper corner, creating 2 vein lines that divide the white section into three triangular segments.

    Seed Embroidery: Using black embroidery floss and straight stitch, embroider small oval seed shapes scattered across the white sections. Each seed uses 2 to 3 parallel stitches approximately 3 mm long. Place 10 to 14 seeds per wing.

    Leaf Crown (Make 1, Color C)

    Ch 4. Working into the 2nd ch from hook, work [1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc] into that same ch, sl st to the 4th ch. This forms one petal.

    Without cutting yarn, ch 4 again from the same base, work [1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc] into 2nd ch from hook, sl st to base. Repeat to make 6 total petals from the same base point.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Pull the tail through the center to gather all petals together and knot firmly.

    Wing Tip Leaf Accents (Make 4, Color C)

    Ch 4. Work [1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc] into 2nd ch from hook, sl st to base. Repeat to make 3 petals from the same base.

    Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail. Make 4 total.

    Assembly Instructions

    Work in this order to keep the piece manageable.

    Step 1: Position each ear on top of the head approximately 4 stitches from center and 2 rounds down from the top. Sew firmly using whipstitch.

    Step 2: Center the leaf crown between the ears on the very top of the head. Sew down through the base into the head several times.

    Step 3: Confirm safety eye washers are fully secured.

    Step 4: Position flattened arms on either side of the body at approximately Rnds 16 to 17. Sew in place.

    Step 5: Position leg nubs on the front lower body at approximately Rnds 6 to 7. Sew in place.

    Step 6: Sew the narrow end of the tail to the bottom center back of the body.

    Step 7: Hold each wing against the side of the body with the straight unedged edge running vertically. The top of the wing should align with approximately Rnd 15. Pin and sew using whipstitch.

    Step 8: Sew one small leaf cluster at the upper outer corner of each wing and one at the pointed tip of each wing.

    Step 9: Check all pieces are securely attached by pulling gently on each sewn part.

    Finishing and Care

    Weave in all remaining yarn ends, burying the tails at least 1 inch into the work and changing direction once before trimming.

    If your wings appear curled after assembly, lightly mist with water, shape flat, and allow to dry pinned to a foam mat. Do not steam press.

    For washing, hand wash in cool water with gentle soap. Squeeze out excess water without wringing. Reshape and lay flat to dry. Keep away from the dryer.

    This item contains safety eyes and is intended for decorative use or for children age 3 and above when eyes are properly secured. For younger children, replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes using black yarn.

    Dragon Fruit Bat Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

    Size Customization

    Want a bigger bat? Use bulky weight yarn with an I/9 (5.5 mm) or J/10 (6 mm) hook for a bat approximately 9 to 10 inches tall.

    Prefer something smaller? Use fingering or sport weight yarn with a C/2 or D/3 (2.75 to 3.25 mm) hook for a bat approximately 3.5 to 4 inches tall. Perfect for ornaments or keychains. Use 6 mm safety eyes instead.

    To adjust wing size proportionally, add or subtract 2 stitches to the starting chain in increments of 2 and adjust shaping rows accordingly.

    Thank you so much for choosing this dragon fruit bat crochet pattern. I hope making this little creature brings you as much joy as designing it brought me. If you create one, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group.

    If you loved this pattern, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below once you make yours. I read every single one, and your photos always make my day.

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