Last summer, my best friend asked me to make her something special for her garden party. She wanted something romantic, something that would make her feel like she stepped out of a cottage in the English countryside. I spent weeks sketching ideas, swatching different lace patterns, and testing daisy appliques until my fingers ached.
The result was this dress. And honestly? It might be the most beautiful thing I have ever created with a hook and yarn.
This crochet sundress combines a fitted bodice with a dreamy A-line skirt, finished with the sweetest three-dimensional daisy flowers along the neckline and hem. It is a labor of love that takes time and patience, but the finished piece is absolutely worth every single stitch.
About This Crochet Pattern
The Daisy Dreams White Crochet Sundress is a midi-length garment worked primarily in white cotton yarn. You will start at the top and work your way down, beginning with a structured bodice and transitioning into a gently flared skirt. The bodice features a sweetheart neckline with two separate cups that create that romantic heart-shaped curve. Thin spaghetti straps connect at the back where a decorative keyhole opening adds an elegant detail.
The skirt is where the magic really happens. You will work two distinct stitch patterns: a diamond mesh section at the hip that transitions into a wider open lattice pattern toward the hem. This combination creates natural movement and beautiful drape. The open lacework means you will want to wear this dress over a slip or line it for modesty.
What makes this dress truly special are the daisy appliques. Large three-dimensional daisies with white petals, yellow centers, and green leaves trim the hem. Smaller versions of these same flowers decorate the sweetheart neckline. Every single daisy is crocheted separately and attached by hand.
Skill Level
This pattern is rated Advanced Intermediate to Advanced. You should be comfortable reading both written instructions and crochet charts. You will need experience working flat pieces and joining them into rounds. The pattern requires understanding of garment shaping including sweetheart neckline curves, waist darts, and A-line flare. You will also construct three-dimensional applique flowers and maintain precise gauge throughout.
If you have successfully made a fitted garment top or dress before, you are well prepared for this project.
Time Estimate
Plan for 80 to 120 hours depending on your speed and experience level. The skirt lace sections become repetitive once you establish the pattern, but they require sustained attention to avoid dropped stitches within the mesh. The applique daisy construction adds approximately 8 to 12 additional hours to your total project time.
Finished Measurements
This pattern is written for a size Small with the following finished measurements:
Materials Needed
Yarn
Main Color (MC): White, 100 percent mercerized cotton, fingering to sport weight (approximately 450 to 550 yards per 100 g skein). You will need approximately 2,200 to 2,600 yards total for a size Small.
Color A: White, same yarn as MC (used for daisy petals, can be pulled from MC yardage)
Color B: Bright yellow, small amount, approximately 80 yards (daisy centers)
Color C: Medium green, small amount, approximately 120 yards (leaves and leaf accents)
Yarn Suggestions
Option 1: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100 percent cotton, 273 yards per 100 g). Select Pure White. The slight sheen of mercerized cotton works beautifully for this dress. Note that DK is slightly heavier than fingering, so swatch carefully and go down a hook size if needed.
Option 2: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in White (100 percent cotton, 186 yards per 100 g skein, sport weight). This yarn blocks beautifully and has excellent stitch definition for the lace sections.
Option 3: We Are Knitters The Cotton in Ecru or White (100 percent Pima cotton, fingering weight, 420 yards per 100 g). This is a luxury option with exceptional drape ideal for the skirt panels.
Choose a smooth, tightly plied 100 percent cotton yarn. Avoid fluffy, hairy, or textured fibers as they obscure the daisy appliques and mesh stitch definition.
Hooks
Use whichever hook achieves your correct gauge. The two hook sizes reflect the difference in stitch density between the solid bodice fabric and the open mesh skirt.
Additional Materials
Gauge
Bodice gauge (with smaller hook, US B-1 / 2.25 mm):
20 hdc x 22 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in half double crochet, blocked
Skirt mesh gauge (with larger hook, US C-2 / 2.75 mm):
One 6-stitch diamond mesh repeat = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm wide
16 rows of diamond mesh = 4 inches / 10 cm, blocked
Please swatch. This is a fitted garment. A difference of even one stitch per inch will result in a dress that does not fit as intended. Work a swatch of at least 6 x 6 inches in each stitch pattern, wet block the swatch, allow it to dry completely, then measure gauge.
Abbreviations
Special Stitches
Half Double Crochet Two Together (hdc2tog)
This is your decrease stitch for shaping. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Insert hook into following stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). Yarn over, draw through all 5 loops on hook. One stitch decreased.
Back Post Half Double Crochet (BpHdc)
Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around the post (the vertical bar) of the indicated stitch in the row below. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Front Post Half Double Crochet (FpHdc)
Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch in the row below. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Diamond Mesh Stitch (worked flat, multiple of 6 plus 3)
Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), skip 2 sts, dc in next st, (ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in next st) across. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first ch-2 sp, (ch 2, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp) across, end dc in 3rd ch of t-ch. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), sk first 2 sts, dc in next dc, (ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc in next st) across. Turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 for diamond mesh pattern.
Scallop Edging
Work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) all in same stitch or space. Skip 2 stitches or spaces. Slip stitch into next stitch. Repeat for each scallop.
Three-Dimensional Daisy (Large, for Hem Border)
You will make 16 large daisies for the hem border.
Center
With Color B, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 10 sc into ring, sl st to first sc. Pull ring closed. (10 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc. (20 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around, sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color B. (30 sc)
Petals
Join MC with sl st to any st of center. (Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch, sl st back into base st of center, sl st into next st of center) 10 times. Fasten off and weave in ends. (10 petals total)
Three-Dimensional Daisy (Small, for Neckline Trim)
You will make 10 small daisies for the neckline border.
Center
With Color B, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 8 sc into ring, sl st to first sc. Pull ring closed. (8 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color B. (16 sc)
Petals
Join MC with sl st to any st. (Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sl st back into base st, sl st into next st) 8 times. Fasten off. (8 petals total)
Leaf Pattern
With Color C, ch 9. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, (sc, ch 2, sc) in last ch (tip of leaf). Working along opposite side of foundation ch: sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch, sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
Make 32 leaves for hem (2 per daisy) and 20 leaves for neckline (2 per small daisy).
Pattern Instructions
Bodice Front
Foundation: With MC and smaller hook, ch 87.
Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped ch-2 counts as first hdc) and in each ch across. Turn. (86 hdc)
Establish Bodice Pattern (Plain Hdc Fabric):
Row 2 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as hdc here and throughout), hdc in each st across, working last hdc into top of t-ch. Turn. (86 hdc)
Rows 3 through 10: Rep Row 2. Turn after each row. (86 hdc)
After completing Row 10, your piece should measure approximately 3.5 to 4 inches from the foundation chain edge when blocked. This is the lower bust section.
Waist Shaping (Decrease Rows)
Row 11: Ch 2, hdc in next 18 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 44 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in rem 20 sts, hdc into t-ch. Turn. (84 hdc)
Row 12: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (84 hdc)
Row 13: Ch 2, hdc in next 17 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 44 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in rem 19 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (82 hdc)
Row 14: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (82 hdc)
Row 15: Ch 2, hdc in next 16 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 42 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in rem 18 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (80 hdc)
Row 16: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (80 hdc)
Row 17: Ch 2, hdc in next 15 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 42 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in rem 17 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (78 hdc)
Row 18: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (78 hdc)
Waist Straight Section
Rows 19 through 22: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (78 hdc each row)
After completing Row 22, your bodice front should measure approximately 8 to 8.5 inches from foundation chain. This is the natural waist point.
Waist Shaping (Increase Rows)
Row 23: Ch 2, hdc in next 14 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 48 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in rem 14 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (80 hdc)
Row 24: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (80 hdc)
Row 25: Ch 2, hdc in next 14 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 48 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in rem 15 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (82 hdc)
Row 26: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (82 hdc)
Sweetheart Neckline Shaping
At Row 27, you will divide the bodice front into two cups for the sweetheart neckline shaping. Work Cup A (right side as worn) first, then Cup B.
Row 27 Cup A (RS): Ch 2, hdc in next 38 sts. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. (39 hdc including t-ch)
Row 28 Cup A: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc across. Turn. (38 hdc)
Row 29 Cup A: Ch 2, hdc across to last 3 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (37 hdc)
Row 30 Cup A: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc across. Turn. (36 hdc)
Row 31 Cup A: Ch 2, hdc across to last 3 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (35 hdc)
Row 32 Cup A: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc across. Turn. (34 hdc)
Row 33 Cup A: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (34 hdc)
Row 34 Cup A: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (34 hdc)
Fasten off Cup A.
Row 27 Cup B: With RS facing, skip the center 4 sts of Row 26 for center neckline dip (these form the V of the sweetheart neckline), join MC in next st.
Row 27 Cup B (RS): Ch 2, hdc in next 38 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (39 hdc)
Row 28 Cup B: Ch 2, hdc across to last 3 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (38 hdc)
Row 29 Cup B: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc across. Turn. (37 hdc)
Row 30 Cup B: Ch 2, hdc across to last 3 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (36 hdc)
Row 31 Cup B: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc across. Turn. (35 hdc)
Row 32 Cup B: Ch 2, hdc across to last 3 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (34 hdc)
Row 33 Cup B: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (34 hdc)
Row 34 Cup B: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (34 hdc)
Fasten off Cup B.
Checkpoint: After completing both bodice front cups, each shoulder edge should have 34 hdc stitches. The bodice front panel should measure approximately 12 to 12.5 inches tall from the foundation chain to the top of the shoulder edge. The piece should be approximately 16 inches wide at the bust and approximately 15.5 inches wide at the narrowest waist point.
Bodice Back
The bodice back is constructed as two separate panels to create the back keyhole opening, then joined below the keyhole.
Back Panel Right (as worn, left as viewed from front):
Foundation: With MC and smaller hook, ch 45.
Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (44 hdc)
Rows 2 through 10: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (44 hdc each row)
Back Waist Shaping Decrease Rows:
Row 11: Ch 2, hdc in next 18 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in rem 23 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (43 hdc)
Row 12: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (43 hdc)
Row 13: Ch 2, hdc in next 17 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in rem 23 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (42 hdc)
Row 14: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (42 hdc)
Row 15: Ch 2, hdc in next 16 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in rem 23 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (41 hdc)
Row 16: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (41 hdc)
Row 17: Ch 2, hdc in next 15 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in rem 23 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (40 hdc)
Row 18: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (40 hdc)
Waist Straight Section:
Rows 19 through 22: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (40 hdc each row)
Back Waist Increase Rows:
Row 23: Ch 2, hdc in next 14 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in rem 24 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (41 hdc)
Row 24: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (41 hdc)
Row 25: Ch 2, hdc in next 14 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in rem 25 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (42 hdc)
Row 26: Ch 2, hdc across. Turn. (42 hdc)
Keyhole Opening Rows:
Rows 27 through 32: Ch 2, hdc across, maintaining straight edge at center back. Turn. (42 hdc each row)
At Row 33, work neckline shaping for back right panel:
Row 33: Ch 2, hdc across to last 8 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts, hdc in t-ch. Turn. (41 hdc)
Row 34: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc across. Turn. (40 hdc)
Fasten off.
Back Panel Left: Work exactly as Back Panel Right from Foundation through Row 34. Fasten off.
Joining Bodice Side Seams
Lay the bodice front flat with right side facing up. Align the bodice back right panel at the right side seam of the front (with right sides together). Using MC and a tapestry needle, mattress stitch the side seam from the bottom foundation chain edge upward, stopping approximately 9 inches from the top (leaving the upper 5 inches open for the armhole). Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the left side seam using the Back Panel Left.
If you are inserting a zipper, install the invisible zipper in the left side seam at this stage.
Waist Joining Round
With RS facing, attach MC with a sl st to any st along the bottom edge of the joined bodice.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 168 sc evenly spaced around the entire bottom edge of the bodice, sl st to first sc. Do not turn. (168 sc)
Important: 168 divides evenly by 6 (for the diamond mesh repeat) and by 8 (for the open lattice repeat). Ensure your stitch count is exactly 168 before proceeding.
Skirt Section
Switch to larger hook (US C-2 / 2.75 mm) for all skirt sections.
Diamond Mesh Hip Section:
Skirt Rnd 1: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), skip first 2 sc, dc in next sc, (ch 2, skip 2 sc, dc in next sc) around, ch 2, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5. (56 dc, 56 ch-2 sps)
Skirt Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, (2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc) around to last sp, 2 dc in last ch-2 sp, sl st to top of beg ch-3. (168 dc)
Skirt Rnd 3: Ch 5, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, (ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc) around, ch 2, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5. (56 dc, 56 ch-2 sps)
Skirt Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 2. (168 dc)
Skirt Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 3. (56 dc, 56 ch-2 sps)
Continue working the diamond mesh pattern, then transition to the open lattice stitch for the lower portion of the skirt. The skirt naturally flares due to the open mesh construction.
Finishing and Assembly
Attaching Daisies
Position the 16 large daisies evenly spaced around the hem. Use white sewing thread or matching yarn to secure each daisy in place. Attach two leaves behind each daisy, positioning them on either side of the flower.
Position the 10 small daisies evenly along the sweetheart neckline, following the curve. Attach two leaves behind each small daisy.
Blocking
Wet blocking is essential for this dress. Soak the completed dress in lukewarm water for 15 to 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Lay flat on blocking mats and pin to measurements. Allow to dry completely before wearing.
Do not skip blocking. Wet blocking transforms the lace sections from stiff, bunched fabric into a flowing, open, and elegant skirt.
Pattern Notes
All turning chains in the bodice hdc sections count as the first hdc of that row unless stated otherwise. On the following row, work into the top of the turning chain to maintain stitch count.
The dress is designed to be worked at a firm tension in the bodice sections to provide structure and support. Maintain consistent tension throughout. For the skirt, a slightly looser tension is intentional to allow drape and flow in the mesh sections.
The back features a keyhole opening at center back between the shoulder blades. If you prefer no keyhole, simply join both back panels at Row 27 and work as one piece from that row forward.
A Few Final Thoughts
I cannot tell you how many compliments my friend received at her garden party. Everyone wanted to know where she got her dress, and she was so proud to say it was handmade just for her. That moment made every single hour of work worthwhile.
This crochet sundress pattern is a true heirloom piece. It takes time, patience, and dedication, but the result is something you will treasure forever.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. I truly hope you love making it as much as I loved designing it. If you give it a try, I would absolutely love to see your finished dress! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in our Facebook group. Seeing your creations always makes my day.
If you loved this pattern, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make this dress. I would love to hear how it turns out for you!
