This sweater is STUNNING and you can absolutely make it yourself. I know cables in crochet can seem intimidating, but trust me when I say this project is more approachable than it looks. That gorgeous braided rope running down the front? It is easier to create than you might think.
This chunky cable turtleneck sweater is the kind of piece that makes people stop and ask, "Wait, you MADE that?" The oversized, boxy fit is incredibly cozy, and the balloon sleeves give it that modern, editorial look you see in high-end boutiques. It works up faster than you would expect because of the super bulky yarn.
If you have been crocheting for a while and want to level up your skills with a wearable showstopper, this is your project. Let me walk you through everything you need to know to create this beautiful sweater from start to finish.
About This Chunky Cable Turtleneck Sweater Pattern
This cropped, oversized pullover features a dramatic turtleneck collar and a stunning central cable panel on the front. The construction is straightforward once you understand the flow. You will work the body in the round from the bottom up, divide at the underarms, work the front and back yoke sections flat, then create the sleeves separately and seam them in. The tall, cozy turtleneck collar gets picked up and worked in the round at the very end.
The cable panel is the star of this crochet pattern. It mimics the look of a classic knitted rope cable, and you achieve it using front post double crochet (FPdc) stitches crossed in a specific pattern. The rest of the body uses a dense half double crochet (hdc) fabric that creates wonderful texture and drape.
Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced
This crochet tutorial requires comfort with working in the round, working flat, seaming, and executing post stitches. If you have never worked crochet cables before, I recommend practicing the cable cross technique on a small swatch first. Once it clicks, you will be amazed at how rhythmic and enjoyable it becomes.
Time Estimate: Approximately 25 to 40 hours depending on your speed and familiarity with post stitch cabling techniques.
Finished Measurements
This sweater has a finished chest circumference of 44 inches (112 cm) with generous oversized ease. Here are all the measurements you need:
This size fits approximately 36 to 42 inch (91 to 107 cm) body measurements due to the boxy, oversized ease.
Materials Needed
Yarn: Bulky weight (weight 5) or Super Bulky (weight 6) yarn with good stitch definition. You will need approximately 1,000 to 1,200 yards (915 to 1,097 meters) in cream or ecru.
Yarn Suggestions:
Important: Choose a plied or lightly twisted yarn rather than single-ply roving. Roving yarn pills quickly and does not hold cable crossings as sharply. Look for at least 50% wool content for elasticity and warmth.
Hooks:
Notions:
Gauge
Using 10 mm hook in half double crochet worked in the round:
Using 10 mm hook, the cable panel (over 14 stitches) measures 5.5 inches (14 cm) wide.
Gauge is mandatory for this garment. Even a small deviation will result in significant size differences. Work a swatch of at least 6 x 6 inches (15 x 15 cm), block it, and measure before beginning. Adjust hook size as needed.
Abbreviations
Let me define all the stitches and terms you will encounter in this step by step crochet pattern:
Special Stitches and Techniques
Half Double Crochet Back Loop Only Ribbing (hdc-blo ribbing)
This creates the stretchy ribbed texture used at hems, cuffs, and collar. Work all hdc stitches by inserting your hook only into the back loop of each stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. The unused front loop creates a horizontal ridge on the right side that mimics knit ribbing beautifully.
Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc)
Yarn over. Insert hook from front to back to front around the post (the vertical bar) of the indicated stitch in the previous row. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Then yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice to complete the stitch.
Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc)
Yarn over. Insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the indicated stitch in the previous row. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Then yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice.
Cable Cross Right (FPdc-cross-R)
This creates a right-leaning cable twist over 6 stitches:
1. Identify the next 6 cable stitches (posts from previous row).
2. Skip the first 3 post stitches.
3. Work FPdc around the 4th post stitch.
4. Work FPdc around the 5th post stitch.
5. Work FPdc around the 6th post stitch.
6. Return to the skipped stitches. Working behind the stitches just made, work FPdc around the 1st post stitch.
7. Work FPdc around the 2nd post stitch.
8. Work FPdc around the 3rd post stitch.
Six FPdc stitches total. The 3 right stitches cross over the top of the 3 left stitches.
Cable Cross Left (FPdc-cross-L)
This creates a left-leaning cable twist over 6 stitches:
1. Identify the next 6 cable stitches.
2. Place the first 3 post stitches on a cable needle or spare hook and hold to the front of work.
3. Work FPdc around the 4th, 5th, and 6th post stitches.
4. Return to the held 3 stitches and work FPdc around each of the 3 held post stitches.
Six FPdc stitches total. The 3 left stitches cross over the top of the 3 right stitches.
Cable Panel (worked over 14 stitches)
The cable panel consists of 6 center FPdc cable stitches flanked by 4 BPdc stitches on each side. The cable crosses every 4 rows, alternating between right and left crosses for a braided appearance.
Repeat rows 1 through 4 for the full cable pattern.
Pattern Notes
This sweater is worked in two main sections: the lower body (worked in the round from hem to underarm) and the yoke (divided and worked flat for front and back separately). Sleeves are worked separately in the round and seamed in. The collar is worked in the round at the end.
The right side is always the outside of the garment. When working in the round, you work continuously with RS facing. When working flat for the yoke, you will turn at the end of each row.
The cable panel is worked only on the front piece. The back is worked entirely in hdc texture.
Turning chains: When working flat in hdc, chain 2 at the beginning of each row. This chain 2 does NOT count as a stitch in this pattern. Always work the first hdc into the first stitch at the base of the turning chain.
Instructions
Lower Body
The body is worked in the round from the hem upward. You begin with hem ribbing worked flat as a strip, join it into a ring, then work the body upward.
Hem Ribbing
Using 9 mm hook, chain 9.
Ribbing Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped ch does not count as st), hdc across. (7 hdc)
Ribbing Rows 2 through 50: ch 2, turn, hdc-blo across. (7 hdc)
After 50 rows, the ribbing strip should measure approximately 44 inches (112 cm) long. Join the short ends of the strip together with a sl st seam to form a ring.
Checkpoint: The joined ribbing ring should measure 44 inches (112 cm) in circumference and approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) tall.
Body Rounds
Using 10 mm hook, join yarn to any seam edge of the ribbing ring with a sl st. Work into the long edge of the ribbing strip.
Round 1 (set-up, RS): ch 2 (does not count as st here or throughout), working into the long edge of the ribbing, work 99 hdc evenly around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (99 hdc)
Place markers as follows: The round has 99 stitches. The front occupies stitches 1 through 50 (50 sts), the back occupies stitches 51 through 99 (49 sts). The cable panel is centered in the front 50 stitches: stitches 19 through 32 are the 14-stitch cable panel. Stitches 1 through 18 and 33 through 50 are plain hdc on the front.
Place marker at stitch 18/19 join and stitch 32/33 join for the cable panel edges.
Round 2 (RS): hdc 18, [work Cable Panel Setup over next 14 sts: BPdc 4, FPdc 6, BPdc 4], hdc 67. (99 sts)
The round structure: Stitches 1-18: hdc. Stitches 19-32: cable panel (14 sts). Stitches 33-50: hdc (18 sts). Stitches 51-99: hdc (49 sts).
Rounds 3 through 6: Continue in established pattern. For the cable panel stitches, work BPdc over BPdc posts and FPdc over FPdc posts from previous round (non-crossing rows). Work hdc over all other stitches. (99 sts each round)
Round 7 (Cable Cross Round): hdc 18, [BPdc 4, FPdc-cross-R, BPdc 4], hdc 67. (99 sts)
Rounds 8 and 9: Work in established pattern without cable crossing. (99 sts)
Round 10: Work established pattern, working FPdc over FPdc and BPdc over BPdc in cable panel. (99 sts)
Round 11 (Cable Cross Round): hdc 18, [BPdc 4, FPdc-cross-L, BPdc 4], hdc 67. (99 sts)
Rounds 12 and 13: Work established pattern. (99 sts)
Round 14: Work established pattern. (99 sts)
Continue repeating the 4-round cable cross sequence (cross-R on round 7, cross-L on round 11 pattern), working 4 non-cross rounds between each cable crossing round, until the body measures 14 inches (35.5 cm) from the top of the hem ribbing, ending on a non-cross round.
Final body round before underarm: Work 1 complete round in established pattern. (99 sts)
Checkpoint: The body in the round should measure approximately 14 inches (35.5 cm) tall from top of ribbing, plus the 3-inch (7.5 cm) hem ribbing = 17 inches (43 cm) total from cast-on edge to current row.
Underarm Division
On the next round, divide for front and back as follows.
Work across the first 50 stitches (the front), chain 4 for the underarm bridge, skip the next 0 stitches (no stitches are removed in this drop-shoulder construction), work across the remaining 49 stitches (the back), chain 4 for the second underarm bridge.
Fasten off. Do not join. The front and back are now worked separately flat.
Front Yoke
Using 10 mm hook, join yarn to the right edge of the front 50 stitches with RS facing.
Row 1 (RS): ch 2, hdc 18, [BPdc 4, FPdc 6, BPdc 4], hdc 18. (50 sts)
Row 2 (WS): ch 2, turn, hdc 18, [FPdc 4, BPdc 6, FPdc 4], hdc 18. (50 sts)
Note: On WS rows, the post stitch directions are reversed to maintain correct cable texture.
Row 3 (RS, Cable Cross): ch 2, turn, hdc 18, [BPdc 4, FPdc-cross-R, BPdc 4], hdc 18. (50 sts)
Row 4 (WS): ch 2, turn, hdc 18, [FPdc 4, BPdc 6, FPdc 4], hdc 18. (50 sts)
Row 5 (RS): ch 2, turn, hdc 18, [BPdc 4, FPdc 6, BPdc 4], hdc 18. (50 sts)
Row 6 (WS): ch 2, turn, hdc 18, [FPdc 4, BPdc 6, FPdc 4], hdc 18. (50 sts)
Row 7 (RS, Cable Cross): ch 2, turn, hdc 18, [BPdc 4, FPdc-cross-L, BPdc 4], hdc 18. (50 sts)
Row 8 (WS): ch 2, turn, hdc 18, [FPdc 4, BPdc 6, FPdc 4], hdc 18. (50 sts)
Continue alternating cable crosses every 4 RS rows until the front yoke measures 6 inches (15 cm) from the underarm division.
Front Neck Shaping
Row 1 of neck shaping (RS): ch 2, hdc 15, leave remaining stitches unworked for now. (15 sts, left shoulder)
Continue on left shoulder only:
Row 2 (WS): ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc to end. (14 sts)
Row 3 (RS): ch 2, turn, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (13 sts)
Row 4 (WS): ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc to end. (12 sts)
Work even on 12 sts for 2 more rows until left shoulder measures approximately 8 inches (20 cm) from underarm. Fasten off.
Return to the unworked stitches of the front yoke. The next center 20 stitches form the neck opening. Skip these 20 center stitches. Join yarn to the remaining 15 stitches.
Right shoulder:
Row 1 (RS): ch 2, hdc 15. (15 sts)
Row 2 (WS): ch 2, turn, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (14 sts)
Row 3 (RS): ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc to end. (13 sts)
Row 4 (WS): ch 2, turn, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (12 sts)
Work even on 12 sts for 2 more rows. Fasten off.
Back Yoke
Using 10 mm hook, join yarn to right edge of back 49 stitches with RS facing.
Row 1 (RS): ch 2, hdc across. (49 sts)
Continue working even in hdc, turning at end of each row, until back yoke measures 7 inches (18 cm) from underarm division.
Back Neck Shaping
Row 1 of neck shaping (RS): ch 2, hdc 12, leave remaining stitches unworked. (12 sts, right shoulder)
Work even on right shoulder for 1 more row. Fasten off.
Return to remaining stitches. Skip center 25 stitches for back neck opening. Join yarn to last 12 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): ch 2, hdc 12. (12 sts)
Work even for 1 more row. Fasten off.
Join shoulders using mattress stitch or sl st seam on WS, matching 12 shoulder stitches on each side.
Sleeves (make 2)
Cuff Ribbing
Using 9 mm hook, chain 9.
Cuff Ribbing Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc across. (7 hdc)
Cuff Ribbing Rows 2 through 20: ch 2, turn, hdc-blo across. (7 hdc)
After 20 rows, the cuff strip measures approximately 18 inches (45.5 cm). Join the short ends with a sl st seam to form a ring.
Sleeve Body
Using 10 mm hook, join yarn to long edge of cuff ring with sl st.
Round 1 (set-up): ch 2, work 40 hdc evenly around the cuff edge. Join with sl st to first hdc. (40 hdc)
Round 2: ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. (40 hdc)
Round 3 (increase round): ch 2, [hdc 4, 2 hdc in next st] 8 times. Join. (48 hdc)
Rounds 4 through 6: Work even in hdc. Join. (48 hdc)
Round 7 (increase round): ch 2, [hdc 5, 2 hdc in next st] 8 times. Join. (56 hdc)
Rounds 8 through 10: Work even in hdc. Join. (56 hdc)
Round 11 (increase round): ch 2, [hdc 6, 2 hdc in next st] 8 times. Join. (64 hdc)
Rounds 12 through 14: Work even in hdc. Join. (64 hdc)
Round 15 (increase round): ch 2, [hdc 7, 2 hdc in next st] 8 times. Join. (72 hdc)
Rounds 16 through 18: Work even in hdc. Join. (72 hdc)
Round 19 (increase round): ch 2, [hdc 8, 2 hdc in next st] 8 times. Join. (80 hdc)
Rounds 20 through 35: Work even in hdc. Join. (80 hdc)
Continue until the sleeve measures 20 inches (51 cm) from the top of the cuff ribbing. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.
Sleeve Seaming
Align the final round of each sleeve with the armhole opening on the body. Pin the sleeve into the armhole, matching center of sleeve cap to shoulder seam. Seam using yarn needle and mattress stitch, easing fullness evenly. Repeat for second sleeve.
Turtleneck Collar
Using 9 mm hook, join yarn at right shoulder seam with RS facing.
Pick-up Round: ch 2, working around the entire neck opening, pick up and hdc as follows. Front neck: Pick up 20 sts across center front neck opening, and 4 sts down each front neck slope = 28 sts across front neck. Back neck: Pick up 25 sts across center back neck opening, and 2 sts at each back neck corner = 29 sts across back neck. Total: 57 sts. Join with sl st to first hdc.
Adjusted round 1: Work 1 rnd of hdc evenly, adjusting to 56 sts total by working 2 hdc together once at one point to even out the count. (56 hdc)
Collar Rounds 2 through 16: ch 2, hdc-blo around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (56 hdc each round)
Continue until collar measures 9 inches (23 cm) tall. Fasten off and weave in end.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all yarn ends using a yarn needle, going in two different directions through the fabric to secure them.
Soak the finished sweater in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Roll the sweater in a clean dry towel and press firmly to remove more water.
Lay the sweater flat on a blocking mat or clean dry surface. Shape to the measurements listed above. Gently tug the cable panel flat and even. Stretch the collar to its full height and let it dry folded over naturally.
Allow to dry completely before wearing.
Size Customization Tips
To make the sweater larger or smaller, adjust the circumference of the starting hem ribbing. The body stitch count should accommodate the cable panel (14 sts) plus even hdc panels on each side.
To lengthen the body, work more rounds before the underarm division. Each 4 rounds adds approximately 2.25 inches (5.7 cm) of length.
To adjust sleeve length, change the number of even rounds worked after the final increase round.
I hope you love making this chunky cable turtleneck sweater as much as I loved designing it. It is the kind of project that feels like a real accomplishment when you try it on for the first time. Thank you so much for choosing this pattern!
If you make this sweater, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo on Facebook. Seeing your creations genuinely makes my day.
Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start, and please leave a comment below if you have any questions or want to share your finished piece. Happy crocheting!
