I’ve been searching for the perfect winter coat pattern for little ones, and this Elsa-inspired hooded coat is hands down my favourite find. The dramatic flare, the delicate lace trim, the sweet crocheted roses on the hood. It checks every box for a fairy-tale garment that actually keeps a child warm.
This pattern creates a structured, fitted bodice that flows into a gorgeous A-line skirt. The attached hood features white roses and leaves, while the hem, cuffs, and hood edge all get a beautiful shell-and-picot lace treatment. There’s even a sweet bow at the center back waist. It’s the kind of heirloom piece that gets passed down through generations.
Fair warning: this is an intermediate to advanced project. But if you’ve completed at least one garment and feel comfortable reading stitch counts, you can absolutely tackle this with a bit of extra patience. I’ll walk you through every single step.
Why This Hooded Coat Pattern Works So Well
The dense single crochet fabric creates real warmth. Unlike lacy patterns that look pretty but let cold air through, this coat works as actual outerwear. The subtle woven texture gives it a polished, almost knitted appearance that photographs beautifully for portraits and holiday photos.
The construction is smart, too. You work the yoke pieces first, seam the shoulders, then join everything to work the body in rounds from the underarm down. This means minimal seaming and a smooth, professional finish. The sleeves get worked separately and attached, and the hood is worked flat before blocking and attaching.
The flare comes from gradual increases worked every few rounds, creating that smooth A-line silhouette without any sudden stitch jumps or puckering.
Skill Level and Time Commitment
This pattern requires comfort with working in both rows and rounds, seaming garment pieces, and constructing small three-dimensional embellishments like the roses and bow. Gauge matters critically because this is a fitted garment. A swatch is not optional here.
Expect to spend approximately 30 to 45 hours total for size 4T, depending on your experience level. The hood, roses, bow, and finishing details add extra time, so plan accordingly. This is a perfect project for cozy winter evenings spread over several weeks.
Finished Sizes for This Crochet Coat Pattern
The pattern is written for size 3T with instructions for sizes 4T, 5T, and 6 in parentheses throughout, formatted as: 3T (4T, 5T, 6).
Chest: 22 (23, 24, 25) inches / 56 (58.5, 61, 63.5) cm
Coat length, shoulder to hem: 18 (19, 20, 21) inches / 45.5 (48.5, 51, 53.5) cm
Sleeve length, underarm to cuff: 10 (11, 12, 13) inches / 25.5 (28, 30.5, 33) cm
Hood depth, center back to face opening: 7 (7.5, 8, 8) inches / 18 (19, 20.5, 20.5) cm
Hood height, crown to neckline: 9 (9.5, 10, 10) inches / 23 (24, 25.5, 25.5) cm
Materials Needed
Yarn (Main Color): Worsted weight (weight category 4), smooth, tightly spun yarn in light blue. You’ll need approximately 900 (1000, 1100, 1200) yards / 823 (915, 1006, 1097) meters.
Accent Yarn (White): Same weight, approximately 150 yards / 137 meters for lace trim, roses, bow, and hood edging.
Accent Yarn (Green): Small amount, approximately 15 yards / 14 meters for rose leaves.
Hooks:
Notions:
Yarn Recommendations
Budget-Friendly Option: Lion Brand Pound of Love in Pastel Blue. Machine washable, clean stitch definition, and one skein covers all sizes for the main color.
Soft Drape Option: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK used doubled. Two strands of DK create a soft worsted-weight fabric with superior drape and a slight sheen. Use in Powder Blue.
Premium Option: Cascade 220 Superwash in Blue Haze. The wool content gives beautiful stitch definition and blocks exquisitely. Purchase 5 (5, 6, 6) skeins for main color plus 1 skein for white.
Important: Avoid chenille, bouclé, or loosely spun singles. The stitch texture will be lost with fuzzy or textured yarns.
Gauge (Do Not Skip This)
19 sc x 22 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in single crochet, worked flat with US size G-6 / 4.00 mm hook, after light blocking.
To make a gauge swatch: Chain 24. Row 1: Single crochet (sc) in second chain (ch) from hook and in each ch across. (23 sc) Turn. Continue working sc rows until the piece measures at least 5 inches tall. Fasten off, weave ends, wet block lightly, and measure the center 4 inches in both directions.
If your swatch is too small (more stitches per inch), go up a hook size. If it’s too large (fewer stitches per inch), go down a hook size.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
beg – beginning
BLO – back loop only (inserting your hook into only the back loop of a stitch instead of both loops)
ch – chain (yarn over, pull through loop on hook)
ch-sp – chain space (the gap created by a chain in a previous row)
dc – double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
dec – decrease (sc2tog unless otherwise noted)
hdc – half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops)
inc – increase (2 sc in same stitch)
lp(s) – loop(s)
MC – main color (light blue)
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
rnd – round
RS – right side (the side that faces outward when worn)
sc – single crochet (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
sc2tog – single crochet two together (a decrease that combines two stitches into one)
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch (insert hook, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on hook)
sm – stitch marker
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over
Special Stitches for This Hooded Coat Pattern
Shell Stitch (used in lace edging)
Work 5 double crochets (dc) in the same stitch or space. This creates the fan shape in the hem and hood edging. When the pattern calls for a shell, always place all 5 dc in the indicated single stitch or chain space.
Picot (used in lace edging)
Chain 3, slip stitch in the first chain made. This creates a small decorative loop.
V-Stitch (used in skirt increases)
Work (dc, ch 1, dc) in the same stitch. This creates a gentle increase point within the flare section.
Invisible Decrease (sc2tog, invisible method)
Insert hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert hook into the front loop only of the following stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop through both front loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through all 3 loops. This creates a neater decrease than the standard method and works beautifully for the hood shaping.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. The coat is worked in pieces: Back Yoke, Left Front Yoke, Right Front Yoke, Body (worked as one piece in rounds from underarm down), two Sleeves, and the Hood. Pieces are seamed at the shoulders and underarms before the body rounds begin.
2. For single crochet rows, chain 1 at the beginning of each row. This chain does NOT count as a stitch unless otherwise noted.
3. The front bands (button band and buttonhole band) are worked as a final edging after all main pieces are assembled.
4. Size customization tip: Go through the pattern before beginning and circle or highlight your size’s numbers to avoid confusion mid-project.
5. Stitch markers: Place markers at the beginning of each round and at each increase point during flare sections to track your work.
6. The body flares through periodic increase rows. The transitions are gradual to create the smooth A-line silhouette.
7. Right side and wrong side: The RS faces outward. When working in rounds, the RS naturally faces you. When working flat rows for the yoke and hood, turn at the end of each row.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Back Yoke
Using MC and G-6 hook, chain 53 (56, 59, 62).
Foundation row (WS): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (52, 55, 58, 61 sc)
Rows 1-8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (52, 55, 58, 61 sc)
The back yoke should measure approximately 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm tall.
Armhole shaping, back:
Row 9 (RS): Ch 1, sk first st, sc in each st to last st, sk last st. Turn. (50, 53, 56, 59 sc)
Row 10: Ch 1, sk first st, sc in each st to last st, sk last st. Turn. (48, 51, 54, 57 sc)
Set aside back yoke. Fasten off and mark the center 24 (25, 26, 27) sts for the back neck. The remaining 12 (13, 14, 15) sts on each side are the back shoulder sections.
Right Front Yoke
Using MC and G-6 hook, chain 27 (29, 31, 33).
Foundation row (WS): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (26, 28, 30, 32 sc)
Rows 1-8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (26, 28, 30, 32 sc)
Neck and armhole shaping, right front:
Row 9 (RS): Ch 1, sk first st, sc across to last 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. Turn. (23, 25, 27, 29 sc)
Row 10: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc2tog, sc across to last st, sk last st. Turn. (20, 22, 24, 26 sc)
The right front shoulder section is 12 (13, 14, 15) sts wide. Set aside.
Left Front Yoke
Work as Right Front Yoke, reversing all shaping.
Foundation row (WS): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (26, 28, 30, 32 sc)
Rows 1-8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (26, 28, 30, 32 sc)
Row 9 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, sc2tog, sc across to last st, sk last st. Turn. (23, 25, 27, 29 sc)
Row 10: Ch 1, sk first st, sc across to last 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. Turn. (20, 22, 24, 26 sc)
Left front shoulder section is 12 (13, 14, 15) sts wide.
Shoulder Seaming
With WS together, use a yarn needle and MC to whipstitch or mattress stitch the 12 (13, 14, 15) shoulder sts of the right front yoke to the corresponding 12 (13, 14, 15) sts of the right back yoke. Repeat for the left side.
Checkpoint: After seaming both shoulders, the back neck opening spans 24 (25, 26, 27) sts. Lay the yoke flat. The back width should measure approximately 10 (10.75, 11.5, 12) inches / 25.5 (27.5, 29, 30.5) cm.
Body (Worked in Rounds from Underarm Down)
Join yarn to the bottom right edge of the right front yoke with RS facing.
Setup round: Ch 1, sc evenly across the bottom of the right front yoke picking up 26 (28, 30, 32) sts, place marker, sc across the bottom of the back yoke picking up 52 (55, 58, 61) sts, place marker, sc across the bottom of the left front yoke picking up 26 (28, 30, 32) sts, sl st to first sc to join. (104, 111, 118, 125 sc)
Note: You are now working in joined rounds. Do not turn unless instructed. The RS faces outward.
Round 1 (adjust to working total):
Working totals going forward: 108 (120, 120, 132) sc.
Rounds 2-4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join. (108, 120, 120, 132 sc)
Round 5 (increase round):
Rounds 6-9: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join. (120, 132, 132, 144 sc)
Round 10 (increase round):
Rounds 11-14: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join. (132, 144, 144, 156 sc)
Round 15 (increase round):
Rounds 16-20: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join. (144, 156, 156, 168 sc)
Round 21 (increase round):
Rounds 22-27: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join. (156, 168, 168, 180 sc)
Round 28 (increase round):
Rounds 29-35: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join. (168, 180, 180, 192 sc)
Size 3T and 4T: End body here (after round 35). Proceed to hem edging.
Size 5T and 6 only, continue:
Round 36 (increase round):
Rounds 37-42: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join. (192, 204 sc)
All sizes: Do not fasten off. Proceed to hem edging.
Checkpoint: Measure the coat from the shoulder seam to the current working round. It should measure approximately 16 (17, 18, 19) inches / 40.5 (43, 45.5, 48.5) cm. The body should be visibly flared and A-line in silhouette.
Hem Edging (All Sizes)
Switch to white yarn and F-5 hook.
Round 1 of edging (foundation): Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join. (168, 180, 192, 204 sc)
Round 2 of edging (shells): Ch 1, sk 2 sts, work shell (5 dc) in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from around, sl st to join. (28, 30, 32, 34 shell repeats)
Round 3 of edging (picots): Sl st to top of first dc of first shell. Ch 1, sc in first dc of shell, picot, sc in second dc, picot, sc in third dc (center dc), picot, sc in fourth dc, picot, sc in fifth dc, picot, sc in sc between shells; rep from around, sl st to join.
Fasten off white yarn. Weave in ends.
Sleeves (Make 2)
Using MC and G-6 hook, chain 29 (31, 33, 35).
Foundation row (WS): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (28, 30, 32, 34 sc)
Rows 1-4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (28, 30, 32, 34 sc)
Row 5 (increase row): Ch 1, inc in first st, sc across to last st, inc in last st. Turn. (30, 32, 34, 36 sc)
Rows 6-9: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (30, 32, 34, 36 sc)
Continue in this manner, working an increase row every 5th row, until the sleeve measures 10 (11, 12, 13) inches from the foundation chain. Work even (without increases) for the final few rows if needed to reach the correct length.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. Fold the sleeve in half lengthwise with WS together and seam the underarm using mattress stitch or whipstitch. Attach sleeves to the armhole openings, matching the underarm seam to the center underarm of the body.
Special Elements: Crocheted Rose (Make 3 in White)
Using F-5 hook and white yarn:
Step 1: Chain 31.
Step 2, Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, (dc, dc, dc) in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch. This completes the first petal. Continue across in the following sequence for each of 4 more petals: sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, (dc, dc, dc) in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch. You will have 5 petals total. (30 worked sts)
Step 3: Fasten off leaving a 12-inch tail.
Step 4: Beginning at the starting end, roll the strip tightly into a spiral to form the rose shape. Use the long tail to whipstitch through the base several times to secure. Knot firmly.
Leaf (Make 6 in Green, 2 Per Rose Cluster)
Using F-5 hook and green yarn:
Chain 8.
Row 1: Sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in last ch. Do not turn. Working along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in last ch.
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Bow (Make 1 in White for Center Back)
Using G-6 hook and white yarn:
Chain 37.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (36 sc) Turn.
Rows 2-8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (36 sc) Turn.
Fasten off. This is the bow rectangle.
Pinch the rectangle at its center and wrap a separate length of white yarn around the middle several times, cinching firmly. Tie off tightly at the back.
Center Knot: Chain 9, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across (8 sc), work 3 rows total. Wrap this small rectangle around the cinched center of the bow. Seam the ends together at the back.
Bow Tails (Make 2): Chain 21, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across (20 sc), work 3 rows. Fasten off. Attach one tail behind each side of the bow at an angle, allowing it to drape slightly.
Assembly and Finishing
1. Block all pieces lightly before final assembly. Wet blocking works best for wool yarns. For acrylic, steam blocking or a cool tumble in the dryer works well.
2. Attach the hood to the neckline, centering it at the back neck and easing the front edges along the front neck slope.
3. Work the front bands (button band and buttonhole band) along the center front edges.
4. Sew buttons to correspond with buttonholes.
5. Attach the three roses with leaves to the hood edge as shown in the finished piece, positioning them asymmetrically near the face opening.
6. Attach the bow to the center back at the waist.
7. Add white lace trim to the hood edge and sleeve cuffs using the same shell-and-picot edging as the hem, or attach pre-made lace ribbon.
8. Weave in all remaining ends.
Tips for Success with This Crochet Tutorial
Check your gauge repeatedly. Measure again after completing the yoke, after the first few body rounds, and before starting the hem edging. Catching a gauge issue early saves heartache.
Use lifelines. Thread a length of scrap yarn through all your stitches every 10 rounds or so. If you need to rip back, you’ll only lose a small section.
Block before attaching embellishments. The roses, leaves, and bow will sit more naturally on blocked fabric.
Take breaks. This is a marathon, not a sprint. The coat will be beautiful whenever you finish it.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. I truly hope you love making this magical little coat as much as I loved designing it. If you create one, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in our Facebook group. There’s nothing better than seeing these patterns come to life in your hands.
If this pattern made your heart sing, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you’re ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I read every single comment and love hearing about your projects!
