This is a structured crossbody bag made from floral granny squares. You will use basic stitches plus puff stitches to create dimensional daisy motifs. The construction involves joining squares into panels, adding a gusset for depth, and attaching hardware for a polished finish.
The bag features a 2×3 grid of large coral and yellow daisies set against a cream background. Each square measures about 4.75 inches after blocking. The finished bag is approximately 10.5 inches wide by 11.5 inches tall by 3 inches deep.
This crochet pattern requires intermediate skills. You should be comfortable with the magic ring, color changes, working in rounds, and seaming pieces together.
Why You Will Love This Coral Daisy Crossbody Bag Pattern
The combination of cheerful colors and classic granny square construction makes this bag a real showstopper. The coral, blush pink, and golden yellow create flowers that pop against the neutral cream background. The puff stitch petals add beautiful texture and dimension that catches the light.
This crossbody bag is practical too. The three-inch gusset gives you plenty of room for your phone, wallet, keys, and a few extras. The leather strap with brass hardware adds a professional touch that elevates the handmade look. You can dress it up or down depending on the occasion.
I love that this project lets you practice multiple techniques in one satisfying make. You will work granny clusters, puff stitches, join-as-you-go seaming, and structured construction. By the end, you will have a bag you are genuinely proud to carry.
Materials Needed for Your Crochet Crossbody Bag
Yarn
You will need worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn in four colors:
Color A (Cream/Off-White): 350 yards (320 m)
Color B (Coral/Terracotta): 150 yards (137 m)
Color C (Blush Pink/Lavender-Pink): 80 yards (73 m)
Color D (Golden Yellow): 60 yards (55 m)
Cotton yarn works best for bags because it holds its shape and has excellent stitch definition. I recommend Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, We Are Knitters The Cotton, or Paintbox Yarns Simply DK Cotton held double for Color A.
Avoid fluffy or textured yarns for this project. You want crisp, clean stitches that show off the flower motif.
Hook
US Size G-6 (4.0 mm) for granny squares and main body
US Size F-5 (3.75 mm) optional for a tighter base and gusset
Notions
Gauge
Getting gauge right matters for this project. Your squares need to match so they join properly.
With US Size G-6 (4.0 mm) hook and worsted weight cotton:
16 single crochet stitches by 18 rows equals 4 inches by 4 inches (10 cm by 10 cm) in single crochet, blocked.
One completed Coral Daisy Granny Square equals 4.75 inches by 4.75 inches (12 cm by 12 cm) blocked.
If your square is significantly smaller or larger, adjust your hook size up or down by half a size and try again.
Skill Level
This pattern is rated intermediate. You should know how to:
Do not worry if some techniques feel unfamiliar. I will walk you through the special stitches step by step.
Abbreviations Used in This Crochet Tutorial
ch: chain, the foundation stitch that creates a loop on your hook
sl st: slip stitch, a flat joining stitch with no height
sc: single crochet, the shortest working stitch
hdc: half double crochet, medium height stitch
dc: double crochet, a taller stitch about twice the height of single crochet
tr: treble crochet, an even taller stitch
st(s): stitch(es)
sp(s): space(s)
BLO: back loop only, working into just the back loop of a stitch
FLO: front loop only, working into just the front loop
MR: magic ring, an adjustable starting ring
pm: place marker
rm: remove marker
RS: right side, the side that faces out
WS: wrong side, the inside
rep: repeat
sk: skip
tog: together
sc2tog: single crochet two stitches together (a decrease)
Special Stitches
Puff Stitch (puff-st)
This creates rounded bumps for the outer flower petals. It looks fancy but is just loops pulled up together.
Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into the designated space.
Step 2: Yarn over and pull up a loop to about 1/2 inch height. You have 3 loops on hook.
Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook into the same space again.
Step 4: Yarn over and pull up another loop to 1/2 inch. You have 5 loops on hook.
Step 5: Yarn over, insert into the same space one more time.
Step 6: Yarn over and pull up a loop to 1/2 inch. You have 7 loops on hook.
Step 7: Yarn over and draw through all 7 loops at once. You have 1 loop on hook.
Step 8: Chain 1 to close and secure. This closing chain does not count as a stitch.
The key is pulling up loops to the same height each time. This keeps your puffs uniform.
Granny Cluster (gr-cl)
This is the classic granny square building block: 3 double crochet stitches worked into the same space.
Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into the designated space.
Step 2: Yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops. First dc made.
Step 3: Repeat for second dc in same space.
Step 4: Repeat for third dc in same space.
You now have one granny cluster of 3 dc.
Standing Single Crochet (standing-sc)
This lets you join new colors without a slip stitch and starting chain.
Step 1: Make a slip knot on hook with new color.
Step 2: Insert hook into the designated stitch.
Step 3: Yarn over and pull up a loop.
Step 4: Yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.
Your first standing sc is complete.
Step by Step Instructions
Section 1: Coral Daisy Granny Square
Make 12 squares total. You need 6 for the front panel and 6 for the back panel.
Round 1 (Color D, Golden Yellow)
Make a magic ring (MR).
Chain 3 (counts as first dc).
Work 11 dc into the MR.
Pull MR closed.
Sl st to top of beginning ch-3 to join.
(12 dc total, including ch-3)
Round 2 (Color D, Golden Yellow)
Do not turn. Work in BLO for this round only.
Sl st into BLO of first dc.
Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch).
Work 2 sc into BLO of each dc around.
Sl st to first sc to join.
(24 sc)
Round 3 (Color C, Blush Pink)
Fasten off Color D. Join Color C with a standing sc into any stitch.
This round forms the inner petal layer. Work into the front loops left unworked in Round 2.
Sl st to first unworked FLO of any Round 1 dc.
Ch 3, work 1 dc into same FLO.
Ch 1.
*Work 2 dc into next unworked FLO, ch 1.
Rep from * around all 12 unworked FLO stitches.
Sl st to top of beginning ch-3 to join.
(12 two-dc clusters, 24 dc plus 12 ch-1 sps)
Checkpoint: The center should look like a small flower with yellow surrounded by blush pink petals. About 1.5 inches in diameter.
Round 4 (Color B, Coral)
Fasten off Color C. Join Color B with standing sc into any ch-1 sp from Round 3.
Ch 2, work 1 dc into same sp.
*Work (dc, ch 1, dc) into each ch-1 sp around.
Rep from * to end.
Sl st to first dc to join.
(12 V-stitches, 24 dc total plus 12 ch-1 sps)
Round 5 (Color B, Coral, Puff Stitch Petals)
Do not fasten off Color B. Sl st into ch-1 sp.
Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch).
Work 1 puff-st into same ch-1 sp.
Ch 1 to close puff-st.
Ch 2.
*Work 1 puff-st into next ch-1 sp. Ch 1 to close. Ch 2.
Rep from * around remaining 10 ch-1 sps.
Sl st to top of first puff-st to join.
(12 puff stitches, 12 ch-2 sps between puff stitches)
Checkpoint: The piece should look like a rounded daisy with coral puff-stitch petals. About 3.5 inches across.
Round 6 (Color A, Cream, Granny Square Frame)
Fasten off Color B. Join Color A with sl st into any ch-2 sp between puff stitches.
This round transforms the flower into a square. Designate 4 of the 12 ch-2 sps as corner positions, evenly spaced. Between each pair of corners, you have 2 side sps.
Begin at a corner ch-2 sp:
In corner sp: work (gr-cl, ch 2, gr-cl).
Ch 1.
In next ch-2 sp (side sp): work 1 gr-cl.
Ch 1.
In next ch-2 sp (side sp): work 1 gr-cl.
Ch 1.
*In next ch-2 sp (corner sp): work (gr-cl, ch 2, gr-cl).
Ch 1.
In next ch-2 sp: work 1 gr-cl.
Ch 1.
In next ch-2 sp: work 1 gr-cl.
Ch 1.
Rep from * 2 more times.
Sl st to top of first gr-cl to join.
Fasten off Color A, leaving a long tail for seaming.
(16 gr-cl clusters total, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 8 ch-1 side sps)
Checkpoint: Each square should measure 4.25 inches before blocking, 4.75 inches after blocking. Make sure all 12 squares match in size.
Section 2: Joining Squares Into Panels
Each panel is a 2-column by 3-row grid.
Join-As-You-Go Method
When working Round 6 on squares that connect to already-completed squares, modify the chain spaces at joining edges:
For a ch-2 corner space where two squares meet: work ch-1, sl st into the ch-2 corner sp of the adjacent square, ch-1.
For a ch-1 side space between clusters: work sl st into the corresponding ch-1 side sp of the adjacent square. No chain before or after.
Assembly Order
Number your square positions left to right, top to bottom:
Position 1 (top-left), Position 2 (top-right)
Position 3 (mid-left), Position 4 (mid-right)
Position 5 (bottom-left), Position 6 (bottom-right)
1. Work Square 1 fully through Round 6. Fasten off.
2. Work Square 2, joining its left edge to Square 1’s right edge during Round 6.
3. Work Square 3, joining its top edge to Square 1’s bottom edge during Round 6.
4. Work Square 4, joining its top edge to Square 2’s bottom edge AND its left edge to Square 3’s right edge during Round 6.
5. Work Square 5, joining its top edge to Square 3’s bottom edge.
6. Work Square 6, joining its top edge to Square 4’s bottom edge AND its left edge to Square 5’s right edge.
Repeat this exact process for the back panel using Squares 7 through 12.
Checkpoint: Each panel should measure approximately 10.5 inches wide by 15 inches tall after blocking.
Section 3: Panel Border and Shaping
Work a single crochet border around each panel to create the slight taper.
With Color A and G-6 hook, join yarn to the top-right corner ch-2 sp of one panel.
Top edge: Work 1 sc into each dc and 1 sc into each ch-1 sp across the top edge of the two top squares. At each corner ch-2 sp, work 2 sc. At the interior join point, work 1 sc. (approximately 34 sc)
Right side edge: Work 1 sc into each cluster and each sp along the right edges. At each horizontal join, work 1 sc into the join sp. (approximately 50 sc)
Bottom edge: Work 1 sc into each dc and ch-1 sp across the bottom. At the interior join point, work 1 sc. (approximately 34 sc)
Left side edge: Mirror the right side edge. (approximately 50 sc)
At each outer corner of the panel, work 2 sc to turn.
Sl st to first sc to join. Do not fasten off.
Second round for taper: On the left and right side edges only, work sc2tog at 2 evenly spaced points along each side, reducing each side by 2 stitches.
After the sc2tog round:
Top edge: 34 sc
Each side edge: 46 sc
Bottom edge: 34 sc
4 corner sts: 8 sc
Total: approximately 168 sc
Fasten off. Repeat for the second panel.
Section 4: Base and Gusset
The gusset creates the bag’s depth.
With Color A and G-6 hook, chain 14.
Row 1 (RS): Sc into second ch from hook and into each ch across. Turn. (13 sc)
Rows 2 onward: Ch 1, turn. Sc into each sc across. (13 sc per row)
Continue until the strip measures approximately 33.5 inches (about 150 rows at gauge). This wraps around both side edges and the bottom.
Pin the gusset around three sides of one panel before fastening off. It should fit snugly. Adjust rows if needed.
Fasten off, leaving a 24-inch tail for seaming.
Section 5: Assembling the Bag
Hold front and back panels with wrong sides facing each other.
Position the gusset strip around the perimeter: start at the top-right corner of the front panel, run down the right side, across the bottom, and up the left side.
Using Color A yarn and tapestry needle, seam the gusset to the front panel using whip stitch. Work through both layers. At corners, ease the gusset to turn without stretching.
After the front is attached, attach the back panel to the other long edge of the gusset.
The top remains open. The short ends of the gusset sit at the top corners.
Checkpoint: The assembled bag should be approximately 10.5 inches wide by 11.5 inches tall by 3 inches deep.
Section 6: Top Edge Finishing
With Color A and G-6 hook, join yarn at one top corner with a standing sc.
Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire top opening. (approximately 90 to 94 sc)
Sl st to first sc to join.
Second round: Ch 1, sc into each sc around. Sl st to first sc to join. (90 to 94 sc)
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Section 7: Closure
Option A, Magnetic Snap: Mark center front and center back of the top edge. Insert the female half on the inside center front, about 1/2 inch below the top edge. Insert the male half on the inside center back. Reinforce with fabric or felt behind each snap plate.
Option B, Zipper: Pin a 10-inch zipper to the inside top edge. Hand-sew with backstitch, working through the yarn edge and catching the zipper tape. Tuck ends into corners.
Section 8: Strap Attachment
Position one leather tab on the outside of the left upper-side edge, centered on the gusset width, about 1 inch below the top edge. Secure with stitching or rivets.
Repeat for the right side.
Attach the swivel clip ends of your leather strap to each tab’s D-ring.
Crocheted strap alternative: With Color A and G-6 hook, chain 8. Work in sc until the strap measures 48 inches. Work a border round of sc around the entire strap. Fasten off and attach to the top corners.
Finishing and Blocking
Block all 12 granny squares before assembly. Wet-block by submerging in cool water, pressing out moisture, and pinning to 4.75 by 4.75 inches. Allow to dry fully.
After assembly, lightly mist the finished bag and shape by hand. Stuff the interior with a plastic bag or towels to maintain the box shape while drying.
Weave all ends at minimum 2 inches through the wrong side. For cotton yarn, a small dab of fabric glue prevents unraveling.
Care Instructions
Hand wash only in cool water with gentle detergent. Do not wring. Press out excess water between towels. Reshape and air dry flat or stuffed with a towel. Do not tumble dry or dry clean. Remove the leather strap before washing. Store with tissue paper inside to maintain shape.
Size Customization Tips
Wider bag: Add one column of squares for a 3-wide by 3-tall grid. Increases width to approximately 15.25 inches.
Taller bag: Add one row for a 2-wide by 4-tall grid. Increases height to approximately 15.25 inches.
Phone-sized pouch: Use a 1×2 grid per panel (4 squares total). Approximately 5 inches wide by 9.5 inches tall.
Shallower clutch: Reduce gusset starting chain to 8 (7 working sc).
Deeper tote: Increase gusset starting chain to 20 (19 working sc).
I hope this coral daisy crossbody bag brings you as much joy to make as it does to carry. The combination of colorful flowers and practical construction makes it a project worth every stitch. Thank you for choosing this pattern, and I cannot wait to see your finished bags.
If you love this crochet tutorial, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it whenever you are ready to start. And please leave a comment below when you finish yours. I would love to hear which colors you chose and how it turned out!
