Granny Square Tote Bag Free Crochet Pattern

I call this one the "Coastal Squares Tote" because of how those navy and teal colors remind me of ocean waves meeting the shore.

Granny Square Tote Bag Free Crochet Pattern

This pattern actually started as a quick sketch in my project notebook about three years ago. I wanted to create a bag that felt both vintage and modern, something that would turn heads at the farmers market but also hold up to daily use. The granny square construction seemed like the obvious choice because those little motifs are endlessly satisfying to make, and joining them together feels like assembling a beautiful puzzle.

The finished bag has become one of my most-used accessories, and I’m so excited to finally share the full pattern with you today.

Why You’ll Love This Granny Square Tote Bag Crochet Pattern

This project hits that sweet spot between mindless relaxation and just enough challenge to keep things interesting. Each individual granny square takes only 15 to 20 minutes to complete. That makes this perfect for TV watching, waiting rooms, or those little pockets of time throughout your day.

The boxy silhouette and fabric lining give this bag real structure. Unlike floppy crochet bags that sag under the weight of your stuff, this one holds its shape beautifully. The braided straps are sturdy enough to handle groceries, books, or whatever else you throw in there.

Best of all? If you can make a basic granny square, you already have 90% of the skills you need.

Skill Level

This pattern is rated intermediate. The granny square itself is beginner territory, but the overall project requires some additional skills.

You’ll need to be comfortable with making multiple motifs and joining them with consistent tension. The border rounds, braided straps, and fabric lining add a few extra steps beyond basic crochet. If you’ve made granny squares before and feel ready to level up, this is a fantastic weekend project.

Finished Size

Your completed tote bag will measure approximately 13 inches wide by 12 inches tall by 3.5 inches deep (33 cm x 30.5 cm x 9 cm). That’s not including the straps.

The straps extend approximately 22 inches / 56 cm from the top edge of the bag to the top of the strap loop. This length sits comfortably on your shoulder.

Each finished granny square measures approximately 4.75 inches / 12 cm after joining.

Materials You’ll Need

Yarn (Worsted Weight, Category 4):

  • Color A (Cream/Off-White): approximately 280 yards / 256 meters
  • Color B (Navy Blue): approximately 210 yards / 192 meters
  • Color C (Teal/Medium Blue): approximately 175 yards / 160 meters
  • Color D (Gray): approximately 210 yards / 192 meters
  • Color E (Light Gray/Silver): approximately 70 yards / 64 meters
  • Total yarn needed: approximately 945 yards / 864 meters

    Hook: US Size J-10 / 6.0 mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)

    Notions:

  • Yarn needle for weaving in ends and seaming
  • Scissors
  • 6 stitch markers
  • Straight pins and T-pins for blocking
  • Blocking mats
  • Measuring tape
  • Cotton canvas or quilting cotton for lining: approximately 0.5 yard / 0.5 meter of 44-inch-wide fabric
  • Sewing needle and coordinating thread
  • Sewing machine (optional but recommended for lining)
  • Yarn Suggestions

    Lion Brand Wool-Ease works beautifully for this project. The slight wool content gives excellent stitch definition and blocks like a dream. Try Fisherman for Color A, Navy for Color B, Teal for Color C, Oxford Gray for Color D, and Silver Heather for Color E.

    Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double creates a sturdy, firm fabric ideal for a structured tote. The 100% acrylic content makes your finished bag machine-washable.

    Cascade 220 Superwash produces crisp cluster stitches and withstands the weight of daily use. It blocks exceptionally flat.

    Substitution note: Any worsted weight yarn that achieves the stated gauge will work. Avoid loosely spun yarns since the open granny square structure benefits from good stitch definition. Cotton yarns will produce a heavier, less elastic fabric and may require sizing up half a hook size.

    Gauge

    One completed 4-round granny square should measure 5 inches by 5 inches / 12.7 cm by 12.7 cm after blocking. Measure from flat edge to flat edge, not point to point.

    Alternative gauge check: 14 double crochet stitches by 8 rows equals 4 inches / 10 cm in standard double crochet worked in rows.

    Gauge matters here! If your square measures larger than 5 inches, try a smaller hook. If it’s smaller than 5 inches, go up a hook size.

    Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch = chain
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
  • dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
  • sp = space
  • ch-sp = chain space
  • rep = repeat
  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side
  • beg = beginning
  • rem = remaining
  • sk = skip
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • yo = yarn over
  • 3-dc cl = 3-double-crochet cluster (see Special Stitches)
  • Special Stitches

    3-Double-Crochet Cluster (3-dc cl)

    This stitch creates the classic granny square "bump." You’re essentially working three incomplete double crochets into the same spot, then finishing them all at once.

    Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch or space.

    Step 2: Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).

    Step 3: Yarn over and draw through 2 loops only (2 loops remain on hook).

    Step 4: Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch or space.

    Step 5: Yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).

    Step 6: Yarn over and draw through 2 loops only (3 loops remain on hook).

    Step 7: Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch or space.

    Step 8: Yarn over and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook).

    Step 9: Yarn over and draw through 2 loops only (4 loops remain on hook).

    Step 10: Yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

    One 3-dc cl complete! Each cluster counts as one unit.

    Flat Slip-Stitch Join

    This joining method creates a raised seam on the right side that forms the visible grid lines you see in the finished bag.

    Hold two finished squares with wrong sides facing each other. Working through both layers simultaneously, insert hook under the top loops of corresponding edge stitches on both squares. Yarn over with joining yarn and draw through both stitches and through the loop on hook.

    Braided Strap

    Cut 12 lengths of Color D yarn, each measuring 3 times the desired finished strap length plus 6 inches. Fold each length in half to create a loop. Group all loops into 3 bundles of 4 strands each (8 individual strands per bundle). Anchor the grouping at a fixed point and braid the 3 bundles in a standard 3-strand braid to the desired length. Knot firmly at each end. Trim ends to 0.5 inch and tuck under when attaching.

    Color Sequence Guide

    The finished bag uses three distinct square colorways distributed across the panels. All squares share a cream outer round, which creates clean joining lines.

    Square Type 1 (Navy Center)

  • Round 1: Color B (Navy)
  • Round 2: Color C (Teal)
  • Round 3: Color A (Cream)
  • Round 4: Color A (Cream)
  • Square Type 2 (Teal Center)

  • Round 1: Color C (Teal)
  • Round 2: Color E (Light Gray)
  • Round 3: Color A (Cream)
  • Round 4: Color A (Cream)
  • Square Type 3 (Gray Center)

  • Round 1: Color E (Light Gray)
  • Round 2: Color B (Navy)
  • Round 3: Color C (Teal)
  • Round 4: Color A (Cream)
  • Total squares needed: 27 squares. Make approximately 9 of Type 1, 9 of Type 2, and 9 of Type 3. Arrange them in an alternating pattern for visual interest.

    Step-by-Step Granny Square Instructions

    Begin each square with a magic ring (also called an adjustable slip ring). Wrap yarn around two fingers twice, insert hook, pull up a loop, chain 3, then work Round 1.

    Round 1

    Using your Round 1 color, make a magic ring.

    Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout). Work 2 dc into ring. Ch 2. Work (3 dc, ch 2) 3 times into ring. Sl st to top of beg ch-3 to join. Pull tail to close ring.

    Stitch count: 12 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces

    Round 2

    Join Round 2 color to any ch-2 corner space with a standing dc.

    In same ch-2 sp: work 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc (first corner made).

    Ch 1.

    Work (in next ch-2 sp: 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) 3 times.

    Sl st to top of first dc to join. Fasten off.

    Stitch count: 24 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces, 4 ch-1 side spaces

    Round 3

    Join Round 3 color to any ch-2 corner space with a standing dc.

    In same ch-2 sp: work 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc (corner made).

    Ch 1. 3 dc into next ch-1 sp. Ch 1.

    Work (in next ch-2 sp: 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc. Ch 1. 3 dc into next ch-1 sp. Ch 1) 3 times.

    Sl st to top of first dc to join. Fasten off.

    Stitch count: 36 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces, 8 ch-1 side spaces

    Round 4

    Join Round 4 color (Color A) to any ch-2 corner space with a standing dc.

    In same ch-2 sp: work 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc (corner made).

    Ch 1. 3 dc into next ch-1 sp. Ch 1. 3 dc into next ch-1 sp. Ch 1.

    Work (in next ch-2 sp: 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc. Ch 1. 3 dc into next ch-1 sp. Ch 1. 3 dc into next ch-1 sp. Ch 1) 3 times.

    Sl st to top of first dc to join. Fasten off.

    Stitch count: 48 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces, 12 ch-1 side spaces

    Checkpoint 1: After completing all 27 squares and blocking each to 5 inches by 5 inches, lay them out before joining. Front panel: 3 x 3 grid. Back panel: 3 x 3 grid. Right side: 1 x 3 stack. Left side: 1 x 3 stack. Bottom: 3 x 1 row.

    Joining the Squares Into Panels

    Work all joins using Color D (Gray) and the flat slip-stitch join method.

    Joining Squares in a Row

    Hold two squares WS together, aligning one full edge. Working through both layers, sl st through both top loops of each corresponding stitch along the edge. At corners, sl st through both ch-2 corner spaces together. Work 1 sl st per dc stitch and 1 sl st per ch-1 sp along the edge. Fasten off.

    Each seam produces approximately 17 sl sts.

    Join 3 squares in a row for each row of the front panel. Join 3 rows together to form the 3 x 3 front panel. Repeat for back panel. Join 3 squares in a column for each side panel. Join 3 squares in a row for the bottom panel.

    Checkpoint 2: Front/back panels should measure approximately 14.5 inches x 14.5 inches / 37 cm x 37 cm. Side panels: 4.75 inches x 14.5 inches / 12 cm x 37 cm. Bottom: 14.5 inches x 4.75 inches / 37 cm x 12 cm.

    Assembling the Bag Body

    Using Color D and the flat slip-stitch join:

    Step 1: Join the bottom panel to the front panel along one long edge (the bottom edge of the front).

    Step 2: Join the bottom panel to the back panel along the opposite long edge.

    Step 3: Join the right side panel to the right edge of the front panel and then to the right edge of the back panel. At the bottom corners, work a single sl st through all available loops to close the corner point.

    Step 4: Join the left side panel to the left edge of the front panel and then to the left edge of the back panel. Close bottom corners.

    Step 5: Join the bottom short edges of both side panels to the short ends of the bottom panel.

    Your bag body is now a 3D box open at the top!

    Checkpoint 3: The assembled bag body should measure approximately 13 inches wide x 12 inches tall x 3.5 inches deep. All four bottom corners should be closed with no gaps.

    Top Border

    Join Color D to any top corner of the bag with a sl st.

    Round 1 (SC Border)

    Ch 1 (does not count as st). Work 1 sc into every dc and 1 sc into every ch-1 sp across the top edge. Work 3 sc into each outer corner of a square where the edge meets the strap attachment zone. Work 1 sc into each seam join point. Continue around all four sides of the top opening. Sl st to first sc to join.

    Stitch count: 136 sc

    Round 2

    Ch 3 (counts as dc). Dc in each sc around. Sl st to top of beg ch-3.

    Stitch count: 136 dc

    Round 3

    Ch 1. Sc in each dc around. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color D.

    Stitch count: 136 sc

    Outer Edge Border (Optional)

    Join Color D to any bottom outer corner. Work sc evenly along all outer vertical and horizontal seam edges on the outside of the bag, working through both seam layers to encase the flat join seam. Work 3 sc into each outer corner. This creates the clean gray edging visible along all panel joins.

    Strap Construction

    Make 2 straps.

    For each strap, cut 24 lengths of Color D, each 150 inches / 381 cm long (approximately 4.2 yards each). Fold each length in half to create a doubled strand. You’ll have 24 doubled strands total per strap.

    Divide into 3 groups of 8 doubled strands (16 individual strand ends per group).

    Knot all 3 groups together at one end. Anchor to a fixed surface. Braid the 3 groups in a standard 3-strand braid, pulling each pass firmly to keep even tension, until the braid measures 50 inches / 127 cm.

    Knot at the end. Trim tails to 1 inch / 2.5 cm on each end. Fold the tails back over the knot and wrap tightly with a 12-inch length of Color D several times, then thread the wrapping yarn through itself to lock.

    Attaching Straps

    Position each strap so both ends sit on the inside of the bag, centered over the first and third squares of each panel. Each strap end should be approximately 2 inches / 5 cm from the outer edge of the top border.

    Using Color D and a yarn needle, sew each strap end securely to the inside of the top border, passing the needle through the strap braid and the top border rows multiple times in an X pattern. Pull firmly.

    Checkpoint 4: Hold the bag by the straps with light tension. The bag should hang level with both straps parallel.

    Lining Instructions

    Cut Fabric Pieces

  • Front/back lining: Cut 2 pieces, each 15.5 inches x 13.5 inches / 39.5 cm x 34.5 cm
  • Side lining: Cut 2 pieces, each 5.5 inches x 13.5 inches / 14 cm x 34.5 cm
  • Bottom lining: Cut 1 piece, 15.5 inches x 5.5 inches / 39.5 cm x 14 cm
  • All pieces include 0.5 inch / 1.3 cm seam allowance.

    Sewing the Lining

    Step 1: With RS together, sew one side panel piece to the right edge of the front panel piece using a 0.5-inch seam. Repeat for the left side.

    Step 2: Sew the back panel piece to the remaining long edges of both side panels.

    Step 3: Pin and sew the bottom piece to the lower edges of the front, back, and side panels. Clip corners.

    Step 4: Turn under the top edge of the lining box by 0.5 inch all around and press flat.

    Step 5: Insert the lining into the bag with wrong sides together. The folded top edge should sit just below the bottom edge of the top border. Pin in place.

    Step 6: Using a sewing needle and coordinating thread, slip-stitch the lining to the inside of the top border row all the way around, catching the crochet stitches every 0.5 inch.

    Blocking and Finishing

    Blocking Individual Squares

    Wet block each completed square by soaking in cool water for 10 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water in a towel (do not wring). Pin each square to a blocking mat using rust-proof T-pins, pulling to exact 5-inch by 5-inch dimensions. Allow to dry completely, at least 24 hours.

    Final Blocking

    After assembly and before inserting the lining, mist the assembled bag body lightly with water using a spray bottle. Shape to dimensions by stuffing the bag firmly with plastic bags or crumpled paper. Smooth all panels and allow to dry fully.

    Weave in all ends securely on the wrong side. For ends at color changes within squares, weave in opposite directions for at least 1 inch before trimming.

    Care Instructions

    For wool or wool-blend yarn: Hand wash in cool water with wool wash. Lay flat to dry. Do not wring, tumble dry, or hang.

    For acrylic or cotton yarn: Machine wash on gentle cycle in cool water. Tumble dry on low or lay flat to dry. Do not iron directly.

    Reshape the bag while damp if it loses its boxy structure after washing. Stuffing with towels and allowing to dry flat will restore the original shape.

    Granny Square Tote Bag Free Crochet Pattern

    Tips for Customizing Your Tote

    Want a smaller bag? Use a 2 x 3 grid per panel instead of 3 x 3, or reduce to a 3-round granny square (approximately 3.75 inches per side).

    Want a larger bag? Add a fourth row to each panel (3 x 4 grid) or work a 5-round granny square. Each additional round adds approximately 1.25 inches per side.

    Switching to bulky weight yarn with a US N-15 / 10 mm hook will produce squares approximately 7 inches per side, perfect for a larger market tote.

    I really hope you love making this granny square tote bag as much as I loved designing it. There’s something deeply satisfying about watching those individual squares come together into a functional, beautiful bag you’ll use for years.

    If you make this pattern, I’d absolutely love to see your creation! Tag me on Instagram or share it in my Facebook group. Seeing your color combinations and finished projects is honestly the best part of my day.

    Go ahead and save this crochet pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I love hearing how your projects turn out!

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