My daughter came home from school last spring absolutely heartbroken. Her best friend had this adorable butterfly purse from some boutique shop, and she wanted one just like it. When I saw the price tag online, I nearly choked on my coffee. Forty-five dollars for something I knew I could make myself.
So I grabbed my hooks and got to work. After a few late nights and some creative problem-solving, I had a butterfly bag that was even prettier than the original. My daughter’s face when she saw it? Priceless. Her friend asked where she got it, and honestly, that felt like the ultimate compliment.
Now I’m sharing this pattern with you because every kid deserves a whimsical butterfly bag, and every crafter deserves the satisfaction of making something this cute. Trust me, this project looks way more complicated than it actually is.
About This Crochet Pattern
This pink butterfly crossbody bag is designed as a flat, butterfly-shaped purse worked in rounds and rows. The finished piece features four distinct wing sections, a slim center body, delicate scallop edging, and a twisted rope shoulder strap. The gradient effect from dusty rose at the edges to cream at the centers creates that realistic butterfly look that makes this bag such a showstopper.
The bag opens along the center body seam and closes with a simple button. Two little antennae with bead tips add the perfect finishing touch. It’s structured enough to hold small treasures but lightweight enough for everyday wear.
Finished measurements: approximately 11 inches wide by 8 inches tall, excluding strap and antennae. The depth at the center body measures approximately 1 inch.
Skill Level
This pattern is rated intermediate. You should be comfortable working in continuous rounds on a foundation ring, reading shaping instructions, working increases and decreases to form irregular organic shapes, joining panels, and working a scallop border.
Here’s the good news though. No complex stitch patterns are used. The wing shaping requires attention to placement of increases and decreases, but if you can follow row-by-row instructions, you can absolutely make this bag.
Time Estimate
Plan for approximately 12 to 18 hours for an experienced intermediate crocheter. Your finishing time may vary depending on how quickly you work seams and weave in ends.
Materials Needed
Yarn:
Yarn Weight: DK weight (Light 3), approximately 220 to 230 yards per 100 gram skein
Hook: US Size E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions
Option 1: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK. This is 100 percent cotton with 273 yards per 100 gram skein. It offers excellent stitch definition and comes in a full range of pinks and cream. Look for Dusty Rose, Blush Pink, and Champagne White.
Option 2: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK. This 100 percent acrylic option has more forgiving tension if you’re still building confidence at this level.
Option 3: Drops Safran. This 100 percent cotton yarn has a slightly lighter hand but produces crisp stitch definition ideal for this structured project.
Substitution note: Any DK weight yarn with a smooth plied construction will work. Avoid fuzzy or textured yarns as they obscure the stitch definition that creates the wing gradient effect. Cotton or cotton-blend yarns are recommended because they give the bag structure and hold the flat shape well after blocking.
Gauge
18 single crochet (sc) by 20 rows equals 4 inches worked in continuous rounds, blocked.
To check your gauge, work a flat circle in continuous rounds of single crochet with your chosen yarn and hook. After 10 rounds, the circle should measure approximately 4 inches in diameter. Adjust hook size as needed. Gauge is important for achieving the stated finished size.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
Before we dive into the instructions, let me define every stitch you’ll need. I’m using US crochet terms throughout this pattern.
Special Stitches
Scallop Stitch (used in edging border):
Skip 1 stitch, work 5 double crochet in the next stitch, skip 1 stitch, slip stitch in the next stitch. This produces one scallop shell. The repeat uses 4 stitches total.
Invisible Decrease:
Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop only of the following stitch. You now have two front loops on your hook. Yarn over, pull through both front loops. You have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops. This counts as 1 stitch and is nearly invisible on the right side.
Popcorn Stitch (for wing texture detail dots):
Work 5 double crochet in the same stitch. Drop the loop from your hook. Insert your hook from front to back through the top of the first double crochet of the group. Pick up the dropped loop and pull it through. Chain 1 to close. This creates a raised bobble dot.
Pattern Notes
1. The bag is constructed in this order: Front Wing Panel, Back Wing Panel, Center Body Strip, Assembly and Seaming, Scallop Edging, Antennae, Strap attachment.
2. Each wing panel consists of two upper wings and two lower wings worked separately and then joined.
3. The color gradient is worked by changing yarn every 2 rounds. Begin with Color C (cream) at the center of each wing, add Color B after 4 rounds, then Color A for the outer rounds.
4. Work all wing pieces with right side facing throughout.
5. Stitch markers are essential. Place a marker at the tip of each wing point and move it up every round to track shaping.
6. When joining rounds, do not turn unless directed.
7. All four wing pieces (upper left, upper right, lower left, lower right) are worked twice total: once for the front panel and once for the back panel. Eight wing pieces total.
8. Color changes are made by working the last yarn over of the final stitch of the current color with the new color.
Step-by-Step Pattern Instructions
Section 1: Upper Wing (Make 4)
You’ll make two upper wings for the front panel and two for the back panel. The upper wing is an oval-rounded shape, wider than tall, with a pointed outer tip and a curved inner edge.
Begin with Color C (cream).
Foundation: Make a magic circle.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into magic circle, pull tail to close ring. Do not join. Place marker in last st. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) 6 times. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (24 sc)
Change to Color B at end of Rnd 4. Cut Color C, leaving a 6-inch tail.
Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: (Sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (36 sc)
Change to Color A at end of Rnd 6. Cut Color B.
Rnd 7: (Sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (42 sc)
Rnd 8: (Sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (48 sc)
Rnd 9: (Sc in next 7 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (54 sc)
Rnd 10: (Sc in next 8 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (60 sc)
Now begin shaping the upper wing into its asymmetric butterfly-wing shape.
Rnd 11: Sc in next 12 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 14 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 14 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 16 sts, dec over last 2 sts. (62 sc)
Rnd 12: Sc in next 15 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 16 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 13 sts, dec, sc in next 14 sts. (63 sc)
Rnd 13: Sc in next 20 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 18 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 10 sts, dec, sc in next 11 sts. (64 sc)
Rnd 14: Sc in next 25 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 20 sts, dec, sc in next 17 sts. (64 sc)
Rnd 15: Sc in next 30 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 18 sts, dec, sc in next 14 sts. (64 sc)
Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (64 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for seaming.
Checkpoint: Each upper wing should measure approximately 4.5 inches at widest point and 3.5 inches tall.
Section 2: Lower Wing (Make 4)
Make two for the front panel and two for the back panel. The lower wing is slightly smaller and more triangular.
Begin with Color C (cream).
Foundation: Make a magic circle.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into magic circle, pull tail to close. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) 6 times. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (24 sc)
Change to Color B at end of Rnd 4. Cut Color C.
Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: (Sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (36 sc)
Change to Color A at end of Rnd 6. Cut Color B.
Rnd 7: (Sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (42 sc)
Rnd 8: (Sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (48 sc)
Rnd 9: (Sc in next 7 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (54 sc)
Now shape into the lower wing profile.
Rnd 10: Sc in next 10 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 12 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 10 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 19 sts. (57 sc)
Rnd 11: Sc in next 13 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 14 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 10 sts, dec, sc in next 17 sts. (58 sc)
Rnd 12: Sc in next 16 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 15 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, dec, sc in next 14 sts. (59 sc)
Rnd 13: Sc in next 18 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 16 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, dec, dec, sc in next 11 sts. (59 sc)
Rnd 14: Sc in next 21 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 18 sts, dec, dec, sc in next 16 sts. (58 sc)
Rnd 15: Sc in next 24 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 16 sts, dec, dec, sc in next 14 sts. (57 sc)
Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (57 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for seaming.
Checkpoint: Each lower wing should measure approximately 4 inches at widest point and 3 inches tall.
Section 3: Assembling the Wing Panels
You’ll assemble one front panel and one back panel.
For the front panel:
Lay two upper wings side by side with right sides facing up. Inner curved edges should touch at the center. The upper wings are mirror images of each other. Using the 12-inch tail or a fresh length of Color A, whip stitch the inner 8 to 10 stitches of each upper wing together at the center join. The join should be approximately 1 inch wide.
Now lay the two lower wings beneath the upper wings with inner top edges touching at center. Align so that the top edge of each lower wing overlaps the bottom inner edge of the upper wing by approximately 4 stitches. Whip stitch the lower wings together at center (8 to 10 stitches), then tack the upper and lower wing pairs together at the center point with 3 to 4 stitches.
Repeat for the back panel.
Section 4: Center Body Strip (Make 1)
Use Color C (cream) throughout.
Ch 7.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (6 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sc)
Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 8 inches from beginning. This is approximately 40 rows at gauge.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.
Button Loop: Attach Color C at the top center of the body strip on the front-facing edge. Ch 8, sl st in same stitch to form a loop. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Sew the button to the corresponding position on the front panel at the center top of the body.
Section 5: Joining Panels and Body Strip
Hold front and back panels together with wrong sides facing each other. Insert the body strip between them vertically at the center.
Using Color A and a yarn needle, whip stitch one long edge of the body strip to the inner center edge of the front panel. Work from top to bottom. Then whip stitch the opposite long edge of the body strip to the inner center edge of the back panel.
Using Color C, align the outer edges of the front and back panels and whip stitch them together around the full outer perimeter, leaving the top center body opening unworked. Work the seam through the back loops only of both panels.
Section 6: Scallop Edging
Work in Color C around the entire outer perimeter of the assembled bag.
Foundation Round: Join Color C with sl st at any inner seam point. Ch 1, sc evenly around entire outer perimeter, working approximately 1 sc per stitch on flat sections and 2 sc in corner or tip stitches. Sl st to first sc to join. Target: (192 sc)
Scallop Round: Ch 1. Work the following repeat around: (sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sl st in next st) 48 times. Sl st to first sl st to join. Fasten off. (48 scallop shells)
At sharp wing tip points, work the 5 dc of the scallop directly into the tip stitch to help the edging turn neatly.
Section 7: Wing Dot Accents (Optional)
On each wing of the front panel only, attach Color B with a sl st approximately 1 inch in from the outer Color A section, in the Color B gradient zone.
Work 1 popcorn stitch in the next stitch. Fasten off. Work 1 popcorn per upper wing and 1 per lower wing, positioned symmetrically.
Section 8: Antennae (Make 2)
Using Color C, ch 20. Sl st back in each ch to create a firm cord. Thread a wooden bead onto the tail and knot tightly beneath the bead.
Attach each antenna to the top center of the body strip, approximately 1/2 inch apart. The antennae should arch upward and outward.
Section 9: Strap Attachment
Cut two lengths of Color C yarn, each approximately 8 inches. At the top of the center body strip on each side, fold one yarn length in half and loop it through the fabric using a lark’s head knot.
Thread the cotton rope strap through both loops. Tie an overhand knot at each end of the rope to prevent it from pulling through.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all yarn ends securely, working the tails back through 2 to 3 inches of adjacent stitches in the same color zone.
To block, lightly mist the entire bag with cool water from a spray bottle. Gently pat the wings flat on a blocking mat. Pin each wing tip outward to emphasize the butterfly shape. Allow to dry completely, 24 to 48 hours.
Do not stretch the scallop edging during blocking. The scallops will naturally relax and fan open as the piece dries. Cotton yarns will stiffen slightly after blocking, which helps the bag maintain its structure.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with gentle detergent. Do not wring. Press gently between two clean towels to remove excess water. Lay flat to dry, reshaping wings as needed. Do not machine wash or tumble dry.
Size Customization Tips
To make the bag larger: Use worsted weight yarn with a US Size G-6 (4 mm) hook. All stitch counts remain the same. Finished size will increase to approximately 13 to 14 inches wide.
To make a child size: Use fingering weight yarn with a US Size B-1 (2.25 mm) hook. Finished size will decrease to approximately 7 to 8 inches wide.
To deepen the bag interior: Work the center body strip wider. For each additional 1 inch of depth, add 4 more rows to the body strip width.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I truly hope you love making this butterfly bag as much as I loved designing it. If you give it a try, I would absolutely love to see your finished piece. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group.
If this pattern caught your eye, go ahead and pin it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I read every single comment and it makes my day to see your creations come to life!
