Olive Leaf Lace-Up Crochet Set Free Crochet Pattern

I’ve been on the hunt for the perfect summer crochet set for ages. You know the type. Something that looks boutique-worthy but actually comes together without a million complicated techniques. This olive leaf lace-up set is exactly what I was looking for, and I’m thrilled to share it with you today.

The combination of that gorgeous olive green with soft peach edging just works beautifully. The lace-up details on the sides give it that trendy, adjustable fit everyone loves. And that little leaf and berry applique at the center front? Chef’s kiss.

Whether you’re making this for beach days, festival season, or just because you deserve something pretty, this two-piece bralette and shorts set delivers. Let me walk you through everything you need to know to make your own.

About This Crochet Pattern

This coordinating set includes a halter bralette top with a flattering V-neckline and high-waist boy-short bottoms. Both pieces feature that eye-catching lace-up detail on the sides, giving you a customizable fit that actually works with your body.

The bralette is constructed from two mirrored cup panels that get joined at the center front. The underband works across the full width for structure and support. Halter ties cross at the back of the neck, so you get that classic summer silhouette.

The shorts start at the waistband and work downward in the round. They’re shaped for a high-rise fit that pairs perfectly with the cropped top. Both pieces get finished with contrast edging in that pretty peach shade, plus matching lace-up cording through the side eyelets.

The star of the show is definitely the three-dimensional applique. Those crocheted leaves and berries get worked separately and sewn to the center front of the bralette. It’s a small detail that makes the whole set look professionally designed.

Skill Level

This pattern is rated intermediate. The actual stitch work is simple single crochet (sc), which most crocheters have mastered early on. But the set requires confident shaping, working in both rows and rounds, and managing two yarn colors throughout.

If you’ve made a shaped garment before and feel comfortable reading patterns, you’ll do great here. Beginners with solid single crochet experience can absolutely tackle this with patience. Just take your time with the shaping sections and check your stitch counts at every checkpoint.

How Long Does It Take?

Plan for 12 to 18 hours total for the complete set. The bralette takes approximately 5 to 7 hours and the shorts take approximately 6 to 9 hours. The applique and all finishing work adds another 1 to 2 hours.

This isn’t a weekend afternoon project, but it’s not a months-long commitment either. Perfect for working on over a week or two while you binge your favorite show.

Finished Measurements

The pattern is written for a size Small/Medium, fitting a 32 to 36 inch (81 to 91 cm) bust, 26 to 30 inch (66 to 76 cm) waist, and 34 to 38 inch (86 to 97 cm) hip.

Bralette finished measurements:

Width across bust at widest point: approximately 13 inches (33 cm) each cup panel

Total front width: approximately 13 inches (33 cm) at underband, tapering to V

Center front length from underband to highest point of V: approximately 6.5 inches (16.5 cm)

Halter ties: approximately 18 inches (46 cm) each

Underband ties: approximately 12 inches (30 cm) each side

Shorts finished measurements:

Waistband circumference: approximately 28 inches (71 cm), stretches to fit 26 to 32 inches (66 to 81 cm)

Hip circumference: approximately 36 inches (91 cm)

Total length from waistband to leg opening: approximately 8 inches (20 cm)

Inseam: approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm)

Size Customization Tips

Need a different size? Here’s how to adjust.

For Large/XL (bust 36 to 40 inches, hip 38 to 42 inches): Add 6 stitches to the starting foundation chain of the bralette panels (3 on each side of center) and add 8 stitches to the starting round of the shorts. Work the leg shaping decreases 2 rows later than written.

For XS/S (bust 28 to 32 inches, hip 32 to 36 inches): Subtract 6 stitches from the bralette foundation and subtract 8 stitches from the shorts starting round. Work the leg shaping decreases 2 rows earlier than written.

For length adjustments to the shorts: Add or subtract rows in the straight body section only, between the hip shaping and the leg shaping. Each 2 rows adds or subtracts approximately 0.5 inch (1.3 cm).

For bralette cup depth: Add rows to the cup panels before working the V shaping rows. Each additional 2 rows adds approximately 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) of depth.

Materials Needed

Yarn A (Main Color): Olive green, approximately 350 yards (320 meters) of worsted weight yarn (Category 4)

Yarn B (Contrast Color): Peach or blush, approximately 150 yards (137 meters) of worsted weight yarn (Category 4)

Yarn Suggestions

Option 1: Lion Brand Pound of Love in Olive (100% acrylic, 1020 yards per 16 oz skein). Purchase 1 skein for Yarn A. Lion Brand Pound of Love in Peach or Yarn Bee Soft Secret in Blush for Yarn B.

Option 2: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK (100% acrylic, 137 yards/125 meters per 50g ball). This yarn works at a slightly tighter gauge. Use a 4.5mm hook and swatch carefully. Purchase 3 balls Olive and 2 balls Blush.

Option 3: WeCrochet Brava Worsted in Fern (100% acrylic, 218 yards/199 meters per 100g skein). Purchase 2 skeins Fern for Yarn A and 1 skein in Cream or Blush for Yarn B.

Substitution note: Any smooth, non-splitty worsted weight yarn in a tightly spun construction will produce the dense, even single crochet fabric shown. Avoid fluffy, bouclé, or highly textured yarns as they will obscure the stitch definition. Cotton or cotton-blend yarns work great for swimwear or beachwear and will add body. If using cotton, swatch first since cotton has less stretch. You may need to size up one hook size or add 4 to 6 stitches to accommodate.

Tools and Notions

Crochet hook: US Size J-10 / 6.0 mm for main fabric

Crochet hook: US Size I-9 / 5.5 mm for applique and edging

Yarn needle for seaming and weaving ends

Stitch markers (4 to 6)

Scissors

Measuring tape

Approximately 60 inches (152 cm) of peach or natural-toned cording or thick twisted cotton cord (4mm diameter) for lace-up sides on both pieces, OR work lace-up chains from Yarn B (instructions included)

Approximately 8 small wooden or peach plastic beads with holes large enough for yarn (optional, for berry applique accents)

Gauge

With US Size J-10 / 6.0 mm hook and Yarn A:

14 stitches x 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet, worked flat

Gauge is mandatory for this garment. I cannot stress this enough. A difference of even 1 stitch per 4 inches will alter the finished bust measurement by over 1 inch across the full width. Work a swatch of at least 20 stitches by 20 rows, wash and block it as you intend to treat the finished garment, and measure before beginning.

If your gauge is too loose (fewer stitches per inch), go down one hook size. If your gauge is too tight (more stitches per inch), go up one hook size.

Abbreviations

Let me break down every abbreviation you’ll encounter. If you’re newer to pattern reading, bookmark this section.

ch = chain: wrap yarn over hook and pull through loop on hook

sl st = slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion

sc = single crochet: insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops

sc2tog = single crochet two together (decrease): insert hook in next stitch, pull up loop, insert hook in following stitch, pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook (1 stitch decreased)

sc3tog = single crochet three together: insert hook in next stitch and pull up loop, repeat in next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 4 loops (2 stitches decreased)

inc = increase: work 2 sc in the same stitch

hdc = half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops

tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over and pull up loop, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops) three times

sk = skip

st(s) = stitch(es)

ch-sp = chain space

RS = right side

WS = wrong side

pm = place marker

BLO = back loop only

FLO = front loop only

rep = repeat

rem = remaining

approx = approximately

cont = continue

Special Stitches

Spike Single Crochet

Used at color change rows for contrast edging stripe. Insert hook into the stitch 1 row below the current working row (the completed row below), yarn over and pull up a long loop to the height of the current row, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This creates a visible contrast stitch that reaches down to anchor to the row below.

Lace-Up Chain

If not using separate cording: With Yarn B and Size I-9 hook, attach yarn at designated point. Chain until cord reaches desired length (approximately 36 chains per 8 inches). Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail for knotting. This creates a flat chain that laces through the side eyelets.

Side Eyelet

On designated eyelet rows in the shorts or bralette side panels, replace 2 sc with: ch 2, sk 2 sts. On the return row, sc 2 in the ch-2 space. This creates a small eyelet hole for lace-up threading.

Three-Quarter Leaf (for applique)

Make a magic ring or ch 4 and join to first ch to form ring.

Row 1: ch 1, sc 6 into ring, do not join. (6 sc)

Row 2: ch 4, turn, tr in 2nd st, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next 2. (6 sts in leaf shape)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in first 2, hdc in next, dc in next, 2 tr in last, ch 3, sl st in same tr (tip formed), rotate and work down other side: 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc 2, sl st to base. Fasten off, leaving tail for sewing.

Berry (worked in Yarn B, make 3)

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: ch 1, 6 sc in ring, join. (6 sc)

Round 2: inc in each st around, join. (12 sc)

Round 3: sc in each st around, join. (12 sc)

Round 4: sc2tog around, join. (6 sc)

Stuff lightly with yarn scraps or leave unstuffed for a flatter berry. Close opening by running yarn through remaining 6 sts and pulling tight. Fasten off, leaving tail for sewing.

Pattern Notes Before You Begin

1. The bralette is worked in two mirrored cup panels joined at center front, then the underband is worked across the full width. Halter ties are worked as chains or as narrow crocheted cords from the top corners of each cup.

2. The shorts are worked in the round from a foundation chain joined to form a loop at the waistband, worked downward.

3. All edging is worked in Yarn B using slip stitch or single crochet along finished edges at the end of construction, not as you go, unless otherwise stated.

4. The lace-up detail on the sides of both pieces is created by working eyelets at regular intervals on the left and right side edges of each piece. The cord or chain is threaded through after finishing in an X-pattern (cross-lace style).

5. When changing colors for edging, always join Yarn B with a slip stitch and work edging with the right side facing unless instructed otherwise.

6. Turn at the beginning of each new row with ch 1 (for sc rows). The turning chain does NOT count as a stitch in this pattern.

7. Check your stitch count at every checkpoint noted throughout the pattern.

8. The contrast trim color appears on: all outer edges of the bralette (neckline V, outer cup edges, underband), waistband top and bottom edge of shorts, leg opening edges, and the lace-up eyelets are lined with Yarn B slip stitches after threading.

Bralette Instructions

Left Cup Panel

The left cup panel is worked from the center bottom (widest point at the underband) up and to the left, tapering to the left shoulder halter point.

Foundation: With Yarn A and J-10 hook, ch 47.

Row 1 (RS): Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. (46 sc)

Row 2 (WS): ch 1, turn, sc across. (46 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across. (46 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (46 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc across. (46 sc)

Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (46 sc)

Begin right side (center front V) shaping:

Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc across to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (45 sc)

Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (45 sc)

Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc across to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (44 sc)

Row 10: ch 1, turn, sc across. (44 sc)

Row 11: ch 1, turn, sc across to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (43 sc)

Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc across. (43 sc)

Now begin shaping the upper cup slope while maintaining right-edge decreases:

Row 13: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (41 sc)

Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc across. (41 sc)

Row 15: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (39 sc)

Row 16: ch 1, turn, sc across. (39 sc)

Row 17: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (37 sc)

Row 18: ch 1, turn, sc across. (37 sc)

Row 19: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (35 sc)

Row 20: ch 1, turn, sc across. (35 sc)

Begin narrow halter strap column on left outer edge only:

Row 21: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (33 sc)

Row 22: ch 1, turn, sc across. (33 sc)

Row 23: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (31 sc)

Row 24: ch 1, turn, sc across. (31 sc)

Row 25: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (29 sc)

Row 26: ch 1, turn, sc across. (29 sc)

Row 27: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (27 sc)

Row 28: ch 1, turn, sc across. (27 sc)

Row 29: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (25 sc)

Row 30: ch 1, turn, sc across. (25 sc)

Row 31: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (23 sc)

Row 32: ch 1, turn, sc across. (23 sc)

Row 33: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (21 sc)

Row 34: ch 1, turn, sc across. (21 sc)

Row 35: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (19 sc)

Row 36: ch 1, turn, sc across. (19 sc)

Row 37: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (17 sc)

Row 38: ch 1, turn, sc across. (17 sc)

Row 39: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc 2. (15 sc)

Row 40: ch 1, turn, sc across. (15 sc)

Now work straight halter strap:

Row 41: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to end. (14 sc)

Row 42: ch 1, turn, sc across. (14 sc)

Row 43: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to end. (13 sc)

Row 44: ch 1, turn, sc across. (13 sc)

Work strap section (4 stitches wide):

Row 45: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 9 sts, leave remaining 9 sts unworked. (4 sc)

Rows 46 to 85: ch 1, turn, sc across. (4 sc each row, approximately 10 inches of strap)

Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail.

CHECKPOINT: After the left cup panel body (through Row 44), your piece should measure approximately 11 inches (28 cm) tall at the outer edge and taper sharply to the right (center V) side. The full bottom width should measure approximately 13 inches (33 cm).

Right Cup Panel

Work to mirror the left cup panel. All shaping is reversed: decreases that were at the left (outer) edge are now at the right (outer) edge, and the V-neck shaping decreases that were at the right edge move to the left.

Foundation: With Yarn A and J-10 hook, ch 47.

Row 1 (RS): Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. (46 sc)

Rows 2 to 6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (46 sc each row)

Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to end. (45 sc)

Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (45 sc)

Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to end. (44 sc)

Row 10: ch 1, turn, sc across. (44 sc)

Row 11: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to end. (43 sc)

Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc across. (43 sc)

Row 13: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (41 sc)

Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc across. (41 sc)

Row 15: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (39 sc)

Row 16: ch 1, turn, sc across. (39 sc)

Row 17: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (37 sc)

Row 18: ch 1, turn, sc across. (37 sc)

Row 19: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (35 sc)

Row 20: ch 1, turn, sc across. (35 sc)

Row 21: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (33 sc)

Row 22: ch 1, turn, sc across. (33 sc)

Row 23: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (31 sc)

Row 24: ch 1, turn, sc across. (31 sc)

Row 25: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (29 sc)

Row 26: ch 1, turn, sc across. (29 sc)

Row 27: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (27 sc)

Row 28: ch 1, turn, sc across. (27 sc)

Row 29: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (25 sc)

Row 30: ch 1, turn, sc across. (25 sc)

Row 31: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (23 sc)

Row 32: ch 1, turn, sc across. (23 sc)

Row 33: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (21 sc)

Row 34: ch 1, turn, sc across. (21 sc)

Row 35: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (19 sc)

Row 36: ch 1, turn, sc across. (19 sc)

Row 37: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (17 sc)

Row 38: ch 1, turn, sc across. (17 sc)

Row 39: ch 1, turn, sc 2, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (15 sc)

Row 40: ch 1, turn, sc across. (15 sc)

Row 41: ch 1, turn, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (14 sc)

Row 42: ch 1, turn, sc across. (14 sc)

Row 43: ch 1, turn, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (13 sc)

Row 44: ch 1, turn, sc across. (13 sc)

Row 45: ch 1, turn, sc 4 on the right outer 4 sts only, leaving center 9 sts unworked. (4 sc)

Rows 46 to 85: ch 1, turn, sc across. (4 sc each row)

Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail.

Joining the Cup Panels

Hold both panels with right sides facing up. Align the V-shaped inner edges (the decreasing edge of each panel). Using Yarn A and a yarn needle, whip stitch the two inner V edges together along the center front seam from the underband up to approximately Row 20, creating the center V point of the bralette. Leave the upper portion (Row 20 and above) open and unjoined. This creates the open V neckline. Alternatively, use a sl st join with hook for a visible ridge on the right side.

CHECKPOINT: After joining, the bralette front panel should measure approximately 13 inches (33 cm) wide at the bottom and taper to a V approximately 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) tall at center.

Underband

The underband is worked directly across the bottom of both joined cup panels, picking up stitches along the foundation chain edge.

With RS facing and Yarn A, attach yarn at the right outer edge of the right cup panel bottom.

Row 1 (RS): Working across the bottom edge of both joined panels, sc evenly across, picking up 1 sc per foundation chain stitch. You should pick up 46 sts from the right panel and 46 sts from the left panel for a total of 92 sc. (92 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (92 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across. (92 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (92 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc across. (92 sc)

Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (92 sc)

Fasten off Yarn A.

Underband tie extension (right side): Attach Yarn A at right edge of underband. Ch 42. Fasten off. This is the right tie.

Underband tie extension (left side): Attach Yarn A at left edge of underband. Ch 42. Fasten off. This is the left tie.

Bralette Edging

With Yarn B and Size I-9 hook, RS facing:

Step 1, Neckline and outer cup edges: Starting at the base of the center V join, work sc evenly up the right inner V edge, around the top of the right cup, down the outer right side edge, along the bottom of the right cup panel foundation, along the underband edges, up the outer left side edge, around the top of the left cup, and back down the left inner V edge to the center V base. Work approximately 1 sc per row along vertical edges and 1 sc per stitch along horizontal edges. At corners, work 3 sc into the corner stitch to keep fabric flat. At the deepest point of the V at center front, work sc3tog to pull in the V point neatly.

Step 2, Underband bottom edge: With Yarn B, work 1 sc in each stitch across the bottom of the underband. (92 sc)

Step 3, Halter strap edging: With Yarn B, work 1 sc in each row along both long sides of each halter strap, and 3 sc across the top end of each strap.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Bralette Lace-Up Eyelets

The side lace-up is created at the side edges of the bralette (the outer edges of each cup panel where the bralette would sit at the sides of the torso, below Row 20 and down through the underband).

Mark 6 evenly spaced eyelet points along the right outer edge of the right cup panel, starting at Row 4 and ending at Row 20, spacing them approximately 2 to 3 rows apart.

At each marked point, with Yarn B, sl st into the edge stitch, ch 3, sl st into the edge stitch 2 rows below. This creates a small loop/eyelet ring. Repeat for all 6 points on the right side.

Repeat on the left outer edge of the left cup panel.

Thread a 24-inch length of cording or Yarn B chain through the eyelets in an X-lace pattern from bottom to top. Tie ends in a bow at the top.

Bralette Applique

Leaf (make 2 to 3 using the Three-Quarter Leaf special stitch, worked in Yarn B):

Work as described in Special Stitches. Each leaf should measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) long. Arrange 2 to 3 leaves in a fan shape at center front of bralette, approximately at Row 4 from the underband, with the base of the leaves meeting at a central point. Pin and sew down firmly with Yarn B threaded on a yarn needle.

Berry (make 3 using Berry special stitch, worked in Yarn B):

Work as described in Special Stitches. Each berry should be approximately 0.75 inch (2 cm) in diameter. If using beads, thread a bead onto the closure yarn before pulling the opening closed so the bead sits inside the berry, giving weight and a shiny accent. Sew 3 berries clustered at the base of the leaf arrangement, with their tails hidden under the leaves.

CHECKPOINT: The finished bralette front panel should measure approximately 13 inches (33 cm) wide x 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) tall at center with halter straps approximately 10 inches (25.5 cm) long before the chain extension.

Shorts Instructions

Waistband

With Yarn A and J-10 hook, ch 100. Join with sl st to first ch to form ring, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: ch 1, sc in each ch around, join with sl st to first sc. (100 sc)

Round 2: ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (100 sc)

Round 3: ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (100 sc)

Round 4: ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (100 sc)

This creates the waistband cuff, approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) tall. The waistband will roll or fold naturally. If you prefer a crisp edge, work Round 1 in BLO for a fold line.

Shorts Body

Continue working in the round, increasing for hips:

Round 5: ch 1, (sc 9, inc) rep 10 times around, join. (110 sc)

Round 6: ch 1, sc around, join. (110 sc)

Round 7: ch 1, sc around, join. (110 sc)

Round 8: ch 1, sc around, join. (110 sc)

Round 9: ch 1, (sc 10, inc) rep 10 times around, join. (120 sc)

Round 10: ch 1, sc around, join. (120 sc)

Round 11: ch 1, sc around, join. (120 sc)

Round 12: ch 1, sc around, join. (120 sc)

Round 13: ch 1, (sc 11, inc) rep 10 times around, join. (130 sc)

Round 14: ch 1, sc around, join. (130 sc)