When I sat down to design this set, I had a clear vision in my head. I wanted a cardigan that felt nostalgic and handmade, something with that classic granny square charm but with a romantic twist. The heart motif needed to pop without being fussy, the construction had to be approachable for intermediate crocheters, and the whole thing had to look like a cozy heirloom piece you would actually want to wear.
I also knew I wanted a matching hat because, honestly, why stop at a cardigan when you can go all in? The bucket style with the ruffled brim felt like the perfect companion to those sweet scalloped edges on the sweater.
I am SO pleased with how this turned out. The pink and red hearts against the cream grid lines give it that vintage valentine vibe, and the ribbon tie at the neckline adds just the right amount of sweetness. If you have been wanting to try a granny square garment but felt intimidated, this crochet pattern breaks everything down into manageable pieces. Let me walk you through it.
About This Heart Granny Square Cardigan Pattern
This crochet pattern creates a complete matching set. You get a long sleeved cardigan built from individual heart granny squares plus a coordinating bucket hat with a ruffled brim. The cardigan body uses a join as you go method to connect squares into panels, while the sleeves are worked separately in solid granny stitch rounds. Every outer edge gets finished with a pretty scallop shell edging in red, and a satin ribbon ties at the neckline.
The hat is constructed from six wedge panels joined into a dome shape, finished with that same gorgeous ruffle detail at the brim.
Skill Level: Intermediate. You should be comfortable with granny square construction, color changes within rounds, join as you go assembly, seaming, working in the round, and decorative edging. Each technique on its own is accessible to a confident beginner, but combining them all in sequence requires intermediate experience. Do not let that scare you though. If you take it one section at a time, you will absolutely get through this.
Time Estimate: The cardigan takes approximately 30 to 40 hours for an average speed crocheter. The hat adds another 6 to 8 hours. Plan for a total of 36 to 48 hours for the complete set. This is definitely a project to spread across several evenings or a couple of weekends.
Finished Measurements
Cardigan:
Hat:
These measurements fit an adult size small/medium (US size 6 to 8). I have included customization tips later in this pattern if you need to size up or down.
Materials Needed
Yarn (worsted weight):
Hook: US size J-10 / 6.0 mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions
Option 1: Lion Brand Pound of Love (worsted weight, 100% acrylic, 1020 yards per 16 oz skein). This gives excellent stitch definition for the heart motifs. One skein each of Color A and Color B, plus one partial skein of Color C will cover your yardage requirements.
Option 2: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK worked on a J hook. Note that this is a DK yarn used at a tighter gauge than the ball band recommends, so swatch first. This option gives a slightly lighter drape for a more relaxed cardigan.
Option 3: Cascade 220 Superwash (worsted weight, 100% superwash wool, 220 yards per 100g skein). Excellent stitch definition and washable. You will need approximately 3 skeins of Color B, 3 skeins of Color A, and 2 skeins of Color C.
Substitution note: Any smooth worsted weight yarn with good stitch definition works well. Avoid yarns with heavy texture or halo, like mohair blends, as they will obscure the heart shapes within the granny squares.
Gauge
One Heart Granny Square (4 rounds as written): 4.5 in x 4.5 in / 11.5 cm x 11.5 cm blocked
Solid granny stitch fabric (for sleeves): 4 clusters x 4 rounds = 4 in x 4 in / 10 cm x 10 cm
Gauge is critical for this project. Your body panel dimensions depend entirely on the square size. If your square measures larger than 4.5 in, go down a half hook size. If smaller, go up a half hook size. Block a test square before cutting yarn or beginning assembly. Trust me on this one.
Abbreviations Used in This Crochet Pattern
Special Stitches
Granny Cluster (cl)
Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch or space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through two loops on hook (one double crochet made), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch or space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through two loops on hook, yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook. This creates two double crochets worked into the same space and counts as one cluster unit.
Standard Granny Corner
Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) all into one corner ch-2 space. This is the corner treatment used throughout all granny squares.
Standard Granny Side
Work (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into a side ch-1 space. This fills each side space on rounds beyond round 2.
Scallop Shell Edging (shell-edge)
Skip 2 stitches, work 5 dc into next stitch, skip 2 stitches, sl st into next stitch. Repeat across the edge. At corners, work 5 dc, ch 1, 5 dc into the corner stitch to turn.
Ruffle Round
Work 3 dc into every single stitch or ch-sp around. This triples the stitch count and creates the frill effect seen at the cuffs, hem, and hat brim.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. The cardigan body is constructed entirely from Heart Granny Squares. Each square is 4 rounds. Squares are joined using the JAYG method on the final round so that all join seams appear as ch-1 ridges on the right side, forming the cream grid lines visible in the finished piece.
2. The cardigan back panel is 4 squares wide by 4 squares tall (16 squares total).
3. Each cardigan front panel is 2 squares wide by 4 squares tall (8 squares per front panel, 16 squares total for both fronts).
4. The armhole opening is formed by leaving the top 2 squares of each side edge unjoined on that vertical edge only, creating a 2-square-tall opening on each side for sleeve insertion.
5. All color changes: drop old color, draw new color through final yo of last stitch, tighten. Do not cut yarn unless instructed.
6. Ch-3 at the beginning of a dc round counts as the first dc throughout unless otherwise noted.
7. All rounds are joined with a sl st to the top of the starting ch-3 or to the first stitch of the round unless otherwise noted.
Heart Granny Square Instructions
Make 40 total for the cardigan and 6 for the hat crown (modified as noted later).
Each square is worked in rounds with the RS always facing. Do not turn unless instructed.
Round 1 (Color C, heart center foundation)
Make a magic ring (or ch 4 and join with sl st to form a ring).
Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into ring, ch 2, (3 dc into ring, ch 2) 3 times. Join with sl st to top of starting ch-3. Fasten off Color C.
Stitch count: 4 groups of 3 dc with 4 ch-2 corner spaces = 12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps
Round 2 (Color C, begin heart shaping)
Join Color C with sl st to any ch-2 corner space.
Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into same ch-2 sp, ch 2, 3 dc into same sp (first corner made).
Ch 1.
Into next ch-2 corner sp: 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1.
Rep for remaining 2 corners.
Join with sl st to top of ch-3. Fasten off Color C.
Stitch count: 4 corners each with 6 dc and a ch-2 sp; 4 ch-1 side sps = 24 dc total, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 4 ch-1 side sps
A note about the heart illusion: The heart shape becomes visible through color placement. Rounds 1 and 2 in Color C form the heart body (the compact red center cluster). Rounds 3 and 4 in Color B and Color A frame the heart. This is a color-field heart granny square, not a stitch-sculpted heart. The heart shape reads from the compact red cluster in the center against the lighter background.
Round 3 (Color B, pink frame)
Join Color B with sl st to any ch-2 corner space.
Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into same ch-2 sp, ch 2, 3 dc into same sp (corner made).
Ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 side sp, ch 1.
(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into next ch-2 corner sp (corner made).
Ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 side sp, ch 1.
Rep from corner to corner 2 more times around.
Join with sl st to top of ch-3. Fasten off Color B.
Stitch count: 4 corners each with 6 dc, 4 side groups of 3 dc = 36 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 8 ch-1 side sps
Round 4 (Color A, cream outer border with JAYG)
Join Color A with sl st to any ch-2 corner space.
For a standalone square (first square of a panel, or any square not yet adjacent to a joined square):
Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into same ch-2 sp, ch 2, 3 dc into same sp (corner made).
(Ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp) across that side.
Rep around all 4 sides with corners as established.
Join with sl st to top of ch-3. Fasten off Color A.
Final stitch count per square: 4 corners each (6 dc + ch-2 sp), 3 side groups of 3 dc per side, 3 ch-1 side sps per side = 48 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 12 ch-1 side sps total
JAYG Method for Subsequent Squares
When joining a new square to an already completed square along a shared edge, replace each ch-2 corner sp on the shared side with: ch 1, sl st into corresponding corner ch-2 sp of adjacent square, ch 1. Replace each ch-1 side sp with: sl st into corresponding ch-1 sp of adjacent square (no chain; the sl st itself is the join). Continue remaining sides as normal standalone square. This creates the cream grid line appearance on the RS.
Cardigan Body Assembly
Back Panel
Join 16 squares into a 4 wide by 4 tall grid using JAYG on round 4. Orient all squares so the heart center points upward (ch-3 start corner at top left of each square when viewed RS up). Label the top edge as the shoulder edge and the bottom edge as the hem edge.
After completing the back panel, your piece should measure approximately 18 in / 45.5 cm wide and 18 in / 45.5 cm tall before edging.
Left Front Panel
Join 8 squares into a 2 wide by 4 tall grid. The right vertical edge of this panel (when worn) will be the center front edge. The left vertical edge will be joined to the back panel at the side seam.
Right Front Panel
Join 8 squares into a 2 wide by 4 tall grid. The left vertical edge of this panel (when worn) is the center front edge. The right vertical edge joins to the back panel at the side seam.
Side Seams
Hold back panel and left front panel with RS together. Using Color A and a tapestry needle, whipstitch through the outermost ch-1 sps and corner ch-2 sps along the left side edge of the back panel and the corresponding edge of the left front panel. Seam from hem edge upward, stopping after the second square from the top. Leave the top two square-heights open on each side: this is the armhole opening. Each armhole opening measures approximately 9 in / 23 cm tall (2 squares tall at 4.5 in each). Repeat for right front panel joined to right side of back panel.
After side seaming, your joined body should measure approximately 36 in / 91.5 cm around the chest at the widest, with two armhole openings each approximately 9 in / 23 cm tall and 4.5 in / 11.5 cm wide (one square width).
Checkpoint: Hold the piece up. The two front panels should hang open at center front with matching heart columns on each side of the opening. The armholes should be open square-edged gaps on each side. The body should reach from shoulder to hip.
Sleeve Instructions (Make 2)
The sleeves are worked in the round from cuff to underarm using solid granny stitch. You will use all Color B for the body, with Color A cuffs and Color C cuff edging.
Foundation
With Color A, ch 32. Join with sl st to first ch, being careful not to twist. (32 ch forming a ring)
Cuff Setup Round (Color A)
Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip 1 ch, (3 dc into next ch, skip 2 ch) around, ending with 2 dc into first ch to complete the final cluster evenly. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.
Stitch check: 32 foundation chains allow for 10 full 3-dc clusters with the ch-3 start counting as the first cluster position. (10 cluster groups)
Cuff Round 1 (Color A)
Ch 3, (3 dc into each ch-1 sp between clusters) around, placing 3 dc into each sp. End with joining sl st to top of ch-3. (10 cluster groups)
Cuff Round 2 (Color C)
Join Color C. Ch 3, (3 dc into each ch-1 sp) around. Join. (10 cluster groups)
Cuff Ruffle Round (Color C)
Ch 1, sc into each dc and each ch-1 sp around. Join. (40 sc)
Then: 3 dc into each sc around. Join.
This creates the ruffled cuff edge. Do not fasten off. Turn work so cuff ruffle hangs down and rejoin Color B at the cuff setup round to work upward toward the shoulder.
Sleeve Body (Color B, worked upward)
Join Color B to any ch-1 sp of cuff setup round.
Round 1 (Color B): Ch 3, 2 dc into same ch-1 sp (half-start), ch 1, (3 dc into next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join to top of ch-3. (10 clusters, 10 ch-1 sps)
Rounds 2 through 6 (Color B): Rep Round 1. No shaping. (10 clusters per round)
After 6 body rounds, begin sleeve increases to widen toward the underarm.
Increase Rounds
Increase Round (worked every 4th round, 4 times total):
Ch 3, 2 dc into same sp, ch 1, 3 dc into next sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1) into next sp (increase made by working 2 cluster groups into one sp), continue (3 dc, ch 1) into each remaining sp to last sp, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1) into last sp (second increase made). Join. (12 clusters after first increase round)
Work 3 even rounds between each increase round.
Increase Round 2: Work 2 increases spaced evenly. (14 clusters)
Work 3 even rounds.
Increase Round 3: Work 2 increases evenly spaced. (16 clusters)
Work 3 even rounds.
Increase Round 4: Work 2 increases evenly spaced. (18 clusters)
Work 2 even rounds after final increase.
Total sleeve body rounds: 24 rounds of Color B
At 18 clusters wide, the sleeve circumference equals approximately 14 in / 35.5 cm at the cap. Fasten off Color B. Do not seam the top of the sleeve closed.
Sleeve Cap and Attachment
The sleeve top is not worked into a traditional cap. Instead, the flat top edge of the sleeve tube (18 clusters wide = approximately 9 in / 23 cm diameter when folded flat) is eased into the square armhole opening. Pin sleeve into armhole with RS together. Whipstitch into place using Color A, matching clusters to the ch-sps of the square edges. The sleeve is set in straight with no additional shaping. Repeat for second sleeve.
Cardigan Edging
All edging is worked with RS facing, starting at center bottom of left front panel, worked continuously up the left front, around the neckline, down the right front, and across the hem, ending at the starting point.
Edging Round 1 (Color B, foundation sc)
Join Color B to bottom corner of left front edge. Ch 1, sc evenly around entire outer perimeter of the cardigan: work 3 sc into each ch-2 corner sp of squares, 1 sc into each dc, 1 sc into each ch-1 sp, and 2 sc at each outer square corner. When reaching the center back neckline top, place a marker. At each center front corner, work 3 sc into the corner st. Join to first sc with sl st.
Approximate total: approximately 396 sc. Adjust to the nearest number divisible by 6 for the shell edging.
Edging Round 2 (Color C, scallop shell edging)
Join Color C. Work shell-edge stitch pattern around entire perimeter: (skip 2 sc, 5 dc into next sc, skip 2 sc, sl st into next sc) around, adjusting at corners to (5 dc, ch 1, 5 dc) into corner sc. Join and fasten off.
Neckline Ribbon
After the scallop edging, weave the ribbon through the ch-1 spaces between the two top center squares of the left front panel and the two top center squares of the right front panel, bringing both ends out at the center front neckline. Tie in a bow. Trim ribbon ends at an angle to prevent fraying.
Hat Instructions
The hat is constructed from six wedge panels worked flat, then joined into a dome, with a ruffled brim worked in the round.
Hat Crown Wedge (Make 6)
Each wedge incorporates a mini heart motif in the center.
Wedge Foundation:
With Color C, make a magic ring.
Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into ring, ch 2, 3 dc into ring, ch 2, 3 dc into ring. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (This is only 3 corner groups, not 4. The wedge is a truncated triangle.)
Fasten off Color C. (3 groups of 3 dc, 3 ch-2 sps)
Wedge Round 2 (Color B):
Join Color B to any ch-2 sp.
Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc (corner) into first ch-2 sp.
Ch 1, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc (corner) into next ch-2 sp.
Ch 1, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc (corner) into last ch-2 sp.
Ch 1. Join to top of ch-3. Fasten off Color B. (3 corners, 3 ch-1 side sps, 18 dc total)
Wedge Round 3 (Color A):
Join Color A to any ch-2 corner sp.
Work full round: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into each corner sp; (3 dc) into each ch-1 sp.
Fasten off Color A. (3 corners, 6 side ch-1 sps, 27 dc total)
Join the Wedges
Hold two wedges with RS together. Using Color C and a tapestry needle, whipstitch one vertical side edge of each wedge together using the outermost dc loops. Join all 6 wedges in a chain, then join the last wedge back to the first to form the dome.
Hat Crown Top
Thread Color C through the magic ring tails at the top of each wedge, pull firmly to close the crown hole, and knot securely. Weave in ends on the WS.
Hat Body (Brim Foundation Rounds)
The joined base edge of the 6 wedges forms the circumference for the brim. 6 wedges x 9 edge sts = 54 sts around.
With RS facing, join Color B to any base edge st.
Hat Body Round 1 (Color B): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into same st, ch 1, (3 dc into next st, ch 1) around. Join. Aim for 18 cluster groups. (18 clusters)
Hat Body Round 2 (Color B): Ch 3, 2 dc into first ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc into next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join. (18 clusters)
Hat Body Round 3 (Color C): Rep Round 2. (18 clusters)
Hat Brim Ruffle
Round 1 (Color C): Ch 1, sc into each dc and ch-1 sp around. Join. (72 sc)
Round 2 (Color C): 3 dc into each sc around. Join. (216 dc)
Round 3 (Color C): Ch 1, sc into each dc around. Join. (216 sc)
Round 4 (Color C): Shell-edge round: (skip 2 sc, 5 dc into next sc, skip 2 sc, sl st into next sc) around. 216 sc divided by 6 = 36 complete shell repeats. Join and fasten off.
Size Customization Tips
To go up one full size (large/extra-large, approximately 42 to 44 in chest):
Add one square column to each front panel (making each front panel 3 squares wide by 4 squares tall). This adds 8 additional squares total and increases the chest circumference by approximately 9 in / 23 cm. Adjust sleeve foundation chain upward by 6 chains (to 38 ch = 12 starting clusters) and begin with 2 additional increase rounds.
To go down one size (extra-small/small, approximately 34 in chest):
Remove one square from the width of each front panel and reduce the back panel to 3 squares wide by 4 squares tall. Reduce sleeve foundation chain by 3 to 6 chains accordingly.
To lengthen the body:
Add one full row of squares to the bottom of the back and both front panels. Each additional row adds approximately 4.5 in / 11.5 cm of length and requires 8 additional squares.
To adjust the hat size:
For a larger hat, add one additional Color A round to each wedge before joining.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all yarn ends securely on the WS using a tapestry needle, working each tail in two directions for at least 1 in / 2.5 cm.
Wet blocking: Submerge the cardigan and hat in cool water with a small amount of wool wash or gentle detergent. Gently press out water without wringing. Roll in a clean dry towel to remove excess moisture. Lay flat on a blocking mat and pin to the finished dimensions. Use rust-proof pins to open the scallop shells at the hem, cuff, and brim. Allow to dry completely (24 to 48 hours).
Steam blocking (for wool or wool-blend yarns): After pinning to dimensions, hold a steam iron approximately 1 in above the surface and apply steam in slow passes. Do not press the iron directly onto the crochet. Allow to cool and dry completely before removing pins.
Care Instructions
Machine wash cold on a delicate cycle in a mesh laundry bag. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, iron, or dry clean unless the yarn label specifically permits it. If using a wool yarn, hand wash in cool water only and lay flat to dry. Store folded, not hung, to preserve the shape of the granny square panels.
Final Thoughts on This Heart Granny Square Cardigan Crochet Pattern
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I hope you love making this set as much as I loved designing it. The combination of those sweet hearts, the cozy granny stitch sleeves, and the feminine ruffle details makes this cardigan and hat set truly special.
If you make this crochet pattern, I would absolutely love to see your finished piece. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your versions of my designs is one of the best parts of this whole journey.
Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start, and please drop a comment below if you make it. I love hearing which colors you chose and how the project turned out for you. Happy crocheting!
