When I started designing this belt, I had a clear vision. I wanted something bohemian and vintage, sturdy enough to actually wear, and beautiful enough to become a statement piece. The medallion construction kept calling to me because each little circle feels like its own tiny accomplishment. You work one, then another, then suddenly you have this gorgeous lace strip taking shape in your hands. I am SO pleased with how it turned out. The scalloped edges, the brass buckle, the way it drapes over a flowy dress. This belt checks every box I had in mind.
If you have been wanting to try join-as-you-go techniques but felt intimidated, this project is perfect. Each medallion is small and manageable. You get plenty of practice before moving on to the next one. The repetition builds confidence fast.
I cannot wait for you to make your own. Let me walk you through everything you need to know.
About This Cream Lace Medallion Belt Crochet Pattern
This wide crochet belt features a horizontal strip of joined circular medallions worked in cream cotton thread. Each medallion is a small flat circle with radiating spokes and a scalloped outer edge. The medallions connect as you work using a join-as-you-go method, creating a lace band approximately 3.5 inches tall.
The buckle end features a sturdy slip stitch tab that threads through a brass rectangular center-bar buckle. The opposite end stays open so you can thread it through for adjustable sizing. The overall effect is bohemian and vintage. Wear it at your waist or hips over dresses, skirts, or high-waisted trousers.
Skill Level: Intermediate. You will need comfort with working in the round, joining rounds with slip stitches, executing a join-as-you-go technique, and working a neat slip stitch edging. The individual stitches are simple. Clean joins and consistent tension are what make the finished piece look polished.
Time Estimate: Approximately 6 to 9 hours for a medium belt of 26 to 28 inches, depending on your experience with join-as-you-go methods.
Finished Measurements
Small (fits waist 26 to 28 inches / 66 to 71 cm): approximately 30 inches / 76 cm total belt length, 3.5 inches / 9 cm wide. Uses 15 medallions.
Medium (fits waist 28 to 32 inches / 71 to 81 cm): approximately 34 inches / 86 cm total belt length, 3.5 inches / 9 cm wide. Uses 17 medallions.
Large (fits waist 32 to 36 inches / 81 to 91 cm): approximately 38 inches / 97 cm total belt length, 3.5 inches / 9 cm wide. Uses 19 medallions.
Width stays consistent across all sizes. You adjust length by adding or removing medallions. The instructions below are written for Medium.
Materials Needed
Yarn: Approximately 150 to 200 yards / 137 to 183 meters of size 10 crochet thread or fingering weight cotton yarn in cream or natural ecru. Exact amount depends on your chosen size.
Hook: US size 7 / 1.65 mm steel crochet hook (for size 10 thread) OR US size B-1 / 2.25 mm hook (for fingering weight cotton). Adjust as needed to match gauge.
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions
Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread Size 10 in Cream or Natural: A widely available, affordable cotton thread with consistent twist and good stitch definition. Approximately 350 yards per ball. One ball is more than sufficient.
DMC Petra Crochet Cotton Size 3 (used with B-1 hook): A 100% mercerized cotton with a smooth, lustrous finish that shows the lace texture beautifully. Approximately 306 yards per ball.
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (used with D-3 / 3.25 mm hook, see gauge note): A soft, matte-finish cotton. Using this weight will produce a slightly chunkier medallion. Adjust your gauge swatch accordingly and expect to use 180 to 220 yards.
Substitution note: Any smooth, non-stretchy cotton or cotton-blend yarn or thread in size 10, size 3, or fingering weight will work. Avoid fuzzy or heavily plied yarns that obscure stitch structure. The belt needs to hold its shape, so a high cotton content (80 percent or more) is strongly recommended over acrylic.
Gauge
Using size 10 crochet thread and a 1.65 mm steel hook: One completed medallion (Rounds 1 through 5) equals approximately 1.75 inches / 4.5 cm in diameter, point to point across the scalloped edge.
Using fingering weight cotton and a B-1 / 2.25 mm hook: One completed medallion equals approximately 2 inches / 5 cm in diameter.
Gauge is critical for this project because the belt width and length are determined entirely by medallion size. Work a sample medallion and measure before proceeding. Adjust hook size as needed.
Abbreviations
Here are all the abbreviations you will encounter, with plain-English explanations:
Special Stitches
These special stitches appear throughout the pattern. Read through them before you begin so you know what to expect.
Picot: Chain 3, slip stitch into the first chain made. This forms a small decorative loop. You will use this on the scalloped outer border of each medallion.
Beginning cluster (beg-cl): Chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet), yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch or space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops (you now have 2 loops remaining on hook), yarn over and draw through all 3 loops. This forms a 2-dc cluster to start the round.
Cluster (cl): Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch or space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops remain on hook). Then yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch or space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops. Finally, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. This is a 2-dc cluster worked into the same location.
Join-As-You-Go Scallop Join (JAYG join): When attaching a new medallion to a completed one during Round 5, you will replace one Picot with this joining technique. Chain 1, slip stitch into the corresponding Picot of the adjacent completed medallion, chain 1, slip stitch into the base stitch of the current medallion (back where you started the join sequence). This creates a flat, nearly invisible connection between two adjacent Picots.
Shell: Work 5 double crochet into the same stitch or space. This creates a fan-shaped group of stitches.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. All medallions are worked in rounds, from center outward, with the right side always facing you. Do not turn between rounds unless instructed.
2. Each round begins with a standing stitch or beginning chain as indicated, and ends with a slip stitch into the top of the beginning stitch to close the round.
3. The belt is constructed left to right (or right to left, as you prefer). Medallion 1 is completed fully through Round 5. All subsequent medallions are joined to the previous one during Round 5 using the JAYG join at the two side Picots that align horizontally.
4. The scalloped top and bottom edges of the belt are created naturally by the outer round of the medallion. No additional edging is required for the main belt body.
5. Stitch counts are given at the end of each round in parentheses.
6. For a cleaner finish, leave a 6-inch tail when starting each medallion. Weave these tails in diagonally on the wrong side after blocking.
Medallion Pattern Instructions
Medallion 1 (Completed Fully, No Joining)
Round 1: Using a magic ring (MR), work 12 single crochet (sc) into the ring. Pull the tail to close the ring. Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc to join. (12 sc)
Round 2: Chain 3 (this counts as a double crochet here and throughout). Work 1 double crochet (dc) into the same stitch. Work 2 dc into each remaining stitch around. Sl st into the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. (24 dc)
Round 3: Chain 1, sc into the same stitch. Chain 3, skip 1 stitch, sc into the next stitch. Repeat [ch 3, skip 1 stitch, sc into next stitch] around, ending with ch 3. Sl st into the first sc to join. (12 sc, 12 ch-3 spaces)
Round 4: Sl st into the first ch-3 space. Work beginning cluster (beg-cl) into that same ch-3 space. Chain 3, work cluster (cl) into the same ch-3 space. Chain 2. [Work cl, ch 3, cl into the next ch-3 space. Ch 2.] Repeat from brackets around. Sl st into the top of the beg-cl to join. (24 clusters, 12 ch-3 spaces, 12 ch-2 spaces)
Round 5 (Scalloped Outer Edge, No Joining): Sl st into the first ch-3 space. Chain 1. Into that same ch-3 space work [sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc]. This is one scallop. Into the next ch-2 space work [sc, Picot, sc]. Repeat [scallop into ch-3 space, then sc/Picot/sc into ch-2 space] around all 12 ch-3 spaces and 12 ch-2 spaces. Sl st into the first sc of the round to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Each medallion has 12 scallops and 12 Picot points alternating around its circumference. The Picots on the top and bottom form the decorative wavy edge of your belt. The Picots on the left and right sides are used for joining.
Checkpoint 1
After completing Medallion 1, lay it flat. It should measure approximately 1.75 inches / 4.5 cm across (or 2 inches / 5 cm if using fingering weight). The scalloped edge should lie flat without ruffling or cupping. If it ruffles, go up a hook size. If it cups, go down a hook size.
Identifying Your Joining Picots
Look at your completed medallion. The two Picots that fall directly on the horizontal center line (at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions) are your joining Picots. Because the medallion has 12 Picot points, these are Picot 1 (at 9 o’clock / left side) and Picot 7 (at 3 o’clock / right side), counting from the starting slip stitch of Round 5 as Picot 1. Mark these with a stitch marker or colored thread before joining subsequent medallions.
Medallion 2 Through Final Medallion (Joining as You Go)
Medallion 2 is worked identically through Round 4. Round 5 is modified to join to Medallion 1.
Round 5 of Medallion 2 (Joining to Medallion 1 on the Right Side):
Begin Round 5 as for Medallion 1 until you reach the joining Picot position that will align with the right-side Picot (Picot 7 at 3 o’clock) of Medallion 1.
At that position, instead of a standard Picot, work a JAYG join: ch 1, sl st into the corresponding right-side Picot of Medallion 1, ch 1, sl st back into the base stitch of the current medallion.
Continue working scallops and Picots around the remainder of Medallion 2. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Note: Only one Picot per medallion-to-medallion connection is joined (the one at the 9 o’clock position of the new medallion joins to the 3 o’clock position of the previous medallion). This single join aligns the medallions horizontally in a single straight strip.
Checkpoint 2
After Medallions 1 and 2 are joined, the pair should lie flat with no twisting or pulling at the join. The scalloped top and bottom edges should both wave consistently. Total width of the two-medallion strip should be approximately 3 to 3.5 inches / 7.5 to 9 cm. This confirms you are joining at the correct Picots.
Continue working and joining medallions in this manner until you reach your desired count:
Checkpoint 3
After all medallions are joined and before working the buckle tab, lay the belt flat and measure end to end. Medium belt should measure approximately 32 to 33 inches / 81 to 84 cm (the finished belt with tab will reach approximately 34 inches including tab). If it is too short, add one or two medallions. If it is too long, work fewer medallions next time.
Buckle Tab Instructions
The buckle tab is a narrow rectangular panel worked in slip stitch ribbing to create a firm, dense fabric sturdy enough to hold the buckle in place.
Foundation: At the starting end of the belt strip (the left side of Medallion 1), join yarn to the center of the leftmost medallion on the wrong side, at the horizontal center. Chain 1.
Row 1 (WS): Work 10 sc evenly across the leftmost end of the belt, inserting hook into the edge stitches and chains to create a stable base. Turn. (10 sc)
Note: 10 sc across the 3.5-inch / 9 cm belt width creates a firm tab. If your medallion end measures slightly wider or narrower, adjust to the nearest even number that spans the full width.
Rows 2 through 12: Chain 1, turn. Working in the back loop only (BLO), sc across. Turn. (10 sc per row)
The tab should measure approximately 1.25 inches / 3 cm long after 12 rows. This is the length needed to fold around the buckle bar with sufficient overlap for sewing.
Do not fasten off.
Attaching the Buckle: Fold the tab around the center bar of the buckle so the wrong side of the tab faces the wrong side of the belt. The tab wraps over the top bar of the buckle and the raw edge meets the starting foundation edge of the belt.
Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whipstitch the final row of the tab to the foundation row of the tab, encasing the buckle bar inside the fold. Pull firmly for a secure attachment. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Checkpoint 4
After attaching the buckle, hold the belt by the buckle and let it hang. The belt body should hang straight. The buckle should sit perpendicular to the belt length with the prong bar accessible. The tab should show no puckering or twisting.
Finishing the Opposite End
The opposite end of the belt (the right side of the final medallion) is the insertion end that threads through the buckle. No additional finishing is required beyond weaving in the end of the final medallion.
Optional: Work 1 round of sc around the tip of the final medallion only (working into the existing scallop stitches and chains) to create a slightly firmer edge. This helps the end feed through the buckle cleanly.
Blocking Your Belt
Wet blocking is strongly recommended for cotton lace. It makes a huge difference in how professional your finished belt looks.
1. Submerge the completed belt in cool water and allow it to soak for 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Gently press out excess water in a clean towel. Do not wring or twist.
3. Lay the belt flat on a blocking mat. Using rust-proof pins, pin the top and bottom scalloped edges at each Picot point to straighten and open the lace.
4. Pin the belt to its finished dimensions: 3.5 inches / 9 cm wide, and the appropriate length for your size.
5. Allow to dry completely (12 to 24 hours).
6. Remove pins. The belt will hold its shape once dry.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with a gentle soap. Do not machine wash or dry. Lay flat to dry. Do not iron directly on the lace. If pressing is needed, use a damp cloth and press on the wrong side.
Size Customization Tips
To lengthen the belt by one size or for a longer fit, add 2 medallions (approximately 3.5 to 4 inches / 9 to 10 cm of additional length). To shorten, remove 2 medallions.
For a smaller or larger buckle, adjust the tab stitch count to match the buckle width. A 1-inch buckle requires approximately 6 to 7 sc across. A 2-inch buckle requires approximately 12 to 13 sc across.
To make the belt wider (like a corset-style wide belt), work two rows of medallions instead of one. Join along both the horizontal Picots and one set of vertical Picots between the two rows. Work Row A of medallions first, fully joined to one another. Then work Row B, joining each new medallion to the corresponding medallion in Row A at the top-center Picot and bottom-center Picot positions. This creates a belt approximately 7 inches total width.
You Did It!
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. I hope you love wearing your finished belt as much as I loved designing it. There is something deeply satisfying about creating an accessory this beautiful with just a hook and some thread.
If you make this cream lace medallion belt crochet pattern, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in our Facebook group. Seeing your creations is the best part of my day.
And if you want to come back to this pattern later, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it whenever inspiration strikes. Drop a comment below if you give it a try. I read every single one and love hearing how your projects turn out!
