Looking for the perfect beach cover-up that actually looks handmade in the best way possible? This coral starfish crochet set is exactly what you need for summer days by the water, pool parties, or vacation packing. The open mesh grid keeps you cool while the starfish appliques and cowrie shells give everything that boho coastal vibe everyone loves right now.
The construction is simpler than it looks. You’ll work the mesh body in joined rounds, add sideways ribbing bands for structure, and finish with those adorable crocheted starfish sewn on top. Both pieces use DK weight cotton yarn and basic stitches arranged in a repetitive grid pattern.
This set works up beautifully as a gift for a beach-loving friend, a treat for yourself before vacation, or even a craft fair bestseller. The crop top takes roughly 8 to 12 hours and the shorts around 12 to 18 hours, so you can finish the whole set in a long weekend of dedicated stitching.
What You’ll Need: Materials List
Before you start, gather everything so you’re not hunting for supplies mid-project.
Yarn for Main Color (MC) in Coral/Terracotta:
Yarn for Contrast Color (CC) in White or Off-White:
Recommended Yarn Options:
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Terracotta and White works wonderfully here. It’s 100 percent mercerized cotton with excellent stitch definition, and it’s machine washable. At 186 yards per 100g skein, you’ll need 5 skeins of MC and 1 skein of CC.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in Melon Sorbet and Paper White is another great choice if you want something budget-friendly with beautiful stitch clarity.
Hooks:
Additional Supplies:
Gauge Information
Gauge is critical for a fitted garment like this. Please make a swatch before diving in.
Mesh Grid Stitch with G-6 / 4.0 mm hook:
Single Crochet Ribbing with E-4 / 3.5 mm hook:
Make a 5 inch square swatch in both stitch patterns. Adjust your hook size up or down if needed to match gauge.
Finished Measurements
Crop Top:
Shorts:
The set is designed with 1 to 2 inches of positive ease at the bust and hip. Remember, the mesh is very open and meant to be worn over a swimsuit or lined garment.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me break down every abbreviation you’ll encounter. If you’re newer to crochet, bookmark this section.
Special Stitches Explained
Mesh Grid Stitch
This is the star of the show. The mesh creates that beautiful open square lattice you see in the photos.
The repeat unit is: single crochet in next stitch or chain space, chain 2, skip 2 stitches.
When working in rounds, each round begins with chain 3 (this counts as single crochet plus chain 2) and ends with a slip stitch to the first single crochet.
When working in rows, each row begins with chain 3, turn. The chain 3 counts as your first single crochet plus chain 2 of the next repeat.
Counting tip: Each single crochet equals 1 mesh unit. Each chain-2 space equals 1 mesh unit. So one full repeat (1 sc + 1 ch-2 space) = 1 mesh unit total.
Single Crochet Ribbing
This creates that stretchy, ridged fabric at the bands that mimics knit ribbing.
Work single crochet in the back loop only across every row. The ribbing strip is worked sideways to the desired length, then joined to form a band. Stitches are picked up along the long edge to continue the main body.
Foundation Single Crochet (fsc)
This creates a foundation chain and first row of single crochet at the same time for a stretchier starting edge.
To work fsc: Chain 2. Insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 1 loop (this creates the chain), yarn over and pull through both loops (this creates the sc). For each subsequent fsc, insert hook under the 2 loops of the chain just created, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and pull through 1 loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. Repeat until you reach your target count.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. The crop top body is worked in one seamless piece in joined rounds from the hem upward, then divided for front and back panels worked separately in rows. Straps come last.
2. The shorts body is worked in joined rounds from the waistband downward. Leg openings are shaped by dividing the work and working each leg separately.
3. All ribbing bands are worked sideways as separate strips, then slip-stitched or seamed onto the main pieces.
4. The mesh stitch repeat is a multiple of 3 stitches plus 1. When picking up stitches along a ribbing edge, make sure your count fits this formula.
5. Stitch counts in parentheses at the end of each row or round refer to mesh units (for mesh sections) or sc stitches (for ribbing sections).
6. The pattern is written for size Small. Medium adjustments appear in brackets as [M] and Large as [L].
7. Block both pieces before attaching appliques to set the mesh grid evenly.
Crop Top Instructions
Section 1: Bottom Rib Band
Using MC and your E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, you’ll create a sideways ribbing strip.
Foundation: Work 8 foundation single crochet. (8 fsc)
Row 1: Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in back loop only across. (8 sc)
Repeat Row 1 until your ribbing strip measures:
Do not fasten off. With the right side facing you, join the short ends of the ribbon with a slip stitch seam to form a ring.
Checkpoint: Your rib band should be a firm, stretchy ring that lies flat and measures your target bust circumference when slightly stretched.
Section 2: Picking Up Stitches Along the Rib Band Top Edge
With the right side facing, using MC and your G-6 / 4.0 mm hook, join yarn at the seam.
Work along the long top edge of the ribbing by working 1 single crochet into each row-end edge of the ribbing strip.
Target stitch counts after pickup:
All three sizes are divisible by 3, which satisfies the mesh repeat requirement. If your row-end count doesn’t match exactly, adjust by working 2 sc in some edge rows or skipping a row-end edge as needed.
Do not join yet. Place a marker in your first stitch.
Section 3: Mesh Body of Crop Top (Worked in Joined Rounds)
Setup Round: With your 96 [108, 120] sc already on the hook from the pickup round, slip stitch to the first sc to join into a round. (96 [108, 120] sc)
Rnd 1: Chain 3 (counts as first sc + ch 2), skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, chain 2, skip 2, sc in next sc across to last 2 sts, chain 2, skip 2, slip stitch to first sc of round. (32 [36, 40] mesh units)
Rnd 2: Slip stitch into first chain-2 space, chain 3 (counts as sc + ch 2), sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space around, chain 2, slip stitch to first sc under chain-3. (32 [36, 40] mesh units)
Repeat Rnd 2 for the mesh body.
Work Rnd 2 a total of 18 times for the mesh body height.
After 18 rounds, your mesh body should measure approximately 6.75 in / 17 cm tall from the top of the rib band.
Checkpoint: After the mesh body, your piece should measure approximately 7.5 in / 19 cm total from cast-on edge of rib band to top of last mesh round.
Section 4: Dividing for Front and Back Panels
At the end of the last mesh round, do not fasten off.
Total mesh units around = 32 [36, 40]. Divide evenly:
Place a stitch marker at the center right side (this marks the side seam) and another at the center left side.
Front Panel (Worked in Rows)
Turn work so the right side faces you.
Row 1 (RS): Chain 3 (counts as sc + ch 2), sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space across front panel only, ending with sc in last space of front panel, chain 2, turn. (16 [18, 20] mesh units)
Row 2 (WS): Chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space across, chain 2, turn. (16 [18, 20] mesh units)
Repeat Row 2 for 4 more rows, creating 6 rows total of front panel above the division point.
After 6 rows, the piece above the division point should measure approximately 2.25 in / 5.7 cm.
Now divide for the two straps.
Left Strap (Front)
Row 1: Chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, turn. (2 [3, 3] mesh units)
For size Small, the left strap is 2 mesh units wide (approximately 1.5 in / 3.8 cm). For Medium and Large, work 3 mesh units to maintain proportion.
Repeat the strap row for 8 rows total (approximately 3 in / 7.6 cm of strap length).
Fasten off. Leave a 12 in / 30 cm tail for seaming.
Right Strap (Front)
Skip the center 12 [12, 14] mesh units of the front panel (these form the neckline opening). Rejoin yarn at the last 2 [3, 3] mesh units on the right side of the front panel.
Row 1: Chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, turn. (2 [3, 3] mesh units)
Repeat the strap row for 8 rows total.
Fasten off. Leave a 12 in / 30 cm tail.
Back Panel (Worked in Rows)
Rejoin MC yarn at the right back edge (at the stitch marker).
Row 1 (RS): Chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space across back panel, chain 2, turn. (16 [18, 20] mesh units)
Row 2: Chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space across, chain 2, turn. (16 [18, 20] mesh units)
Repeat Row 2 for 12 rows total for the back panel. This makes the back panel taller than the front, which matches the finished design where the back rises higher.
After 12 rows, divide for back straps the same way as the front straps.
Left Back Strap
Row 1: Chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, turn. (2 [3, 3] mesh units)
Repeat for 2 more rows. (3 rows total)
Do not fasten off.
Hold the left back strap and left front strap with wrong sides together. Using a tapestry needle and MC tail, whip stitch or slip stitch the tops of the two straps together to join the shoulder.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Right Back Strap
Skip center 12 [12, 14] mesh units of back panel. Rejoin yarn at last 2 [3, 3] mesh units.
Row 1: Chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, turn. (2 [3, 3] mesh units)
Repeat for 2 more rows.
Join to right front strap as described above.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Section 5: Top Edge Finishing
With MC and your E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, work a single round of sc along the entire top opening (neckline and straps), working 1 sc into each sc of the mesh and 1 sc into each chain-2 space along the edge. Slip stitch to join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
This creates a neat, firm edge along the neckline and keeps the straps from stretching out.
Section 6: Bottom Edge
The bottom rib band was worked first and the mesh attached to it, so the lower edge already has a clean cast-on edge. If desired, work 1 round of sc in blo along this edge for a polished finish.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Crop Top Checkpoint: After all seaming and edging, the crop top should measure 9 in / 23 cm from hem to highest back point, and 32 [36, 40] in / 81 [91, 102] cm around the bust.
Shorts Instructions
Section 1: Waistband
Using MC and your E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, work a sideways ribbing strip.
Foundation: Work 12 foundation single crochet. (12 fsc)
Row 1: Chain 1, turn. Single crochet in back loop only across. (12 sc)
Repeat Row 1 until your waistband strip measures:
Do not fasten off. Join short ends with a slip stitch seam to form a ring.
Drawstring Eyelet Row
With the right side facing and using your E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, work 1 round of sc along the top long edge of the waistband, spacing sc evenly to match the hip stitch count. At the center front, work (sc, chain 2, skip 2 sc, sc) to create a small eyelet opening for the drawstring.
Slip stitch to join. Fasten off.
Section 2: Picking Up Stitches Along the Waistband Bottom Edge
With the right side facing and your G-6 / 4.0 mm hook, join MC at the seam along the bottom long edge of the waistband.
Target stitch counts:
Adjust spacing of pickup sc as needed to hit your target count.
Slip stitch to join into a round. Place a marker at the join.
Section 3: Mesh Hip Body (Worked in Joined Rounds)
Rnd 1: Chain 3 (counts as sc + ch 2), skip 2, sc in next sc, chain 2, skip 2, sc in next sc around, chain 2, slip stitch to first sc under chain-3. (34 [38, 42] mesh units)
Rnd 2: Slip stitch into first chain-2 space, chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space around, chain 2, slip stitch to first sc. (34 [38, 42] mesh units)
Repeat Rnd 2 for a total of 20 rounds of mesh hip body.
After 20 rounds, the hip mesh body should measure approximately 7.5 in / 19 cm from the bottom of the waistband.
Checkpoint: The total rise from top of waistband to end of mesh should be approximately 9.5 in / 24 cm including waistband depth.
Section 4: Dividing for Legs
Mark the center front (directly below the drawstring eyelet) and center back.
Front Crotch Panel (Worked in Rows)
Row 1 (RS): Chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space across front 17 [19, 21] mesh units, chain 2, turn. (17 [19, 21] mesh units)
Row 2: Chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space across, chain 2, turn. (17 [19, 21] mesh units)
Crotch Shaping for Front Panel:
Row 3 (decrease row): Chain 1, sc2tog over first sc and first chain-2 space (insert hook in sc, pull up loop, insert hook in chain-2 space, pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops), chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space across to last 2 units, chain 2, sc2tog over last chain-2 space and last sc, turn. (15 [17, 19] mesh units)
Row 4: Chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space across, chain 2, turn. (15 [17, 19] mesh units)
Row 5 (decrease row): Repeat Row 3 decrease at both ends. (13 [15, 17] mesh units)
Row 6: Work even. (13 [15, 17] mesh units)
Fasten off. This forms the front crotch panel.
Back Crotch Panel (Worked in Rows)
Rejoin MC at right back edge.
Row 1 (RS): Chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space across back 17 [19, 21] mesh units, chain 2, turn. (17 [19, 21] mesh units)
Row 2: Work even. (17 [19, 21] mesh units)
Row 3 (decrease row): Decrease 1 mesh unit at each end as per front crotch Row 3. (15 [17, 19] mesh units)
Row 4: Work even. (15 [17, 19] mesh units)
Row 5 (decrease row): Decrease 1 mesh unit at each end. (13 [15, 17] mesh units)
Row 6: Work even. (13 [15, 17] mesh units)
Do not fasten off. Fold front and back crotch panels with wrong sides together. Using MC, slip stitch through both layers along the bottom 13 [15, 17] mesh units to join the crotch seam.
Fasten off.
Section 5: Legs (Worked in Joined Rounds)
The two leg openings are each worked in the round from the crotch join outward.
With the right side facing and your G-6 / 4.0 mm hook, join MC at the right side of the crotch seam.
Work sc evenly around the leg opening. Target:
Rnd 1 of leg mesh: Chain 3 (counts as sc + ch 2), skip 2, sc in next sc, chain 2, skip 2, sc in next sc around, chain 2, slip stitch to first sc. (16 [18, 20] mesh units)
Rnd 2: Slip stitch into first chain-2 space, chain 3, sc in next chain-2 space, chain 2, sc in next chain-2 space around, chain 2, slip stitch to first sc. (16 [18, 20] mesh units)
Repeat Rnd 2 for a total of 3 rounds of leg mesh. The leg mesh should measure approximately 1.25 in / 3.2 cm.
Section 6: Leg Hem Rib Band
At the end of the last leg mesh round, switch to your E-4 / 3.5 mm hook.
Work 6 rounds of sc in blo around each leg opening for the ribbed hem.
Rnd 1: Single crochet in each sc and chain-2 space around leg opening edge, slip stitch to join. Count should return to the original pickup count: 48 [54, 60] sc.
Rnds 2-6: Chain 1, sc in blo of each sc around, slip stitch to join. (48 [54, 60] sc each rnd)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat for the second leg.
Section 7: Drawstring
Cut white cotton cord to 30 in / 76 cm OR crochet a chain of 120 chains in CC. Fasten off, leave 1 in / 2.5 cm tails.
Thread the drawstring through the eyelet at the center front of the waistband, passing it through the interior of the waistband band. Pull both ends out through the eyelet so they hang at center front. Tie each end in a small knot to prevent fraying. Tie in a bow.
Shorts Checkpoint: Completed shorts should measure 11 in / 28 cm in total rise (waistband top to crotch seam) and 34 [38, 42] in / 86 [97, 107] cm around the hip.
Starfish Applique Instructions
Make 3 to 4 large starfish and 3 to 4 small starfish. All are made with CC yarn and your E-4 / 3.5 mm hook.
Small Starfish (approximately 1.75 in / 4.5 cm tip to tip)
Create a magic ring. Chain 1, work 10 sc into ring. Slip stitch to first sc to join. (10 sc)
You will work each arm across 2 sc of this center ring.
Arm (make 5, working into the ring sc):
Row 1: Join yarn into any 2 consecutive sc of the ring. Chain 1, sc in same sc, sc in next sc, turn. (2 sc)
Row 2: Chain 1, increase in first sc, sc in last sc, turn. (3 sc)
Row 3: Chain 1, sc across, turn. (3 sc)
Row 4: Chain 1, sc2tog, sc in last sc, turn. (2 sc)
Row 5: Chain 1, sc2tog. (1 sc)
Fasten off. Rejoin in the next 2 sc of the ring and repeat for the next arm. Repeat until all 5 arms are complete.
After all 5 arms are complete, weave in all ends. Lightly press flat.
Large Starfish (approximately 2.75 in / 7 cm tip to tip)
Create a magic ring. Chain 1, work 10 sc into ring. Slip stitch to join. (10 sc)
Arm (make 5):
Row 1: Join into any 2 consecutive ring sc. Chain 1, sc in each, turn. (2 sc)
Row 2: Chain 1, increase in first sc, sc in last sc, turn. (3 sc)
Row 3: Chain 1, increase in first sc, sc, sc in last sc, turn. (4 sc)
Row 4: Chain 1, sc across, turn. (4 sc)
Row 5: Chain 1, sc2tog, sc, sc in last sc, turn. (3 sc)
Row 6: Chain 1, sc2tog, sc in last sc, turn. (2 sc)
Row 7: Chain 1, sc2tog. (1 sc)
Fasten off. Repeat for remaining 4 arms.
Weave in all ends.
Attaching Appliques and Shells
Referring to the photos for placement, pin the starfish and cowrie shells onto the blocked crop top and shorts before sewing.
Crop top placement:
Shorts placement:
Using CC yarn and your tapestry needle, whip stitch each starfish firmly through all 5 arm tips and through the center to the mesh fabric. Take care to stitch through mesh bar strands rather than pulling the mesh out of shape.
For cowrie shells: Thread CC yarn through the shell opening or drilled hole. Stitch the shell to the mesh at your desired placement, passing yarn through the shell twice for security. Knot on the wrong side.
Tips for Success
Blocking matters. Seriously, block both pieces before attaching the appliques. This sets the mesh grid evenly and makes the whole set look professionally made.
Count your stitches. The mesh is repetitive, which is both good and bad. Good because it’s meditative. Bad because it’s easy to zone out and lose track. Count at the end of every round for the first few rounds until you get into a rhythm.
Choose smooth yarn. Fuzzy or hairy fibers will obscure the open mesh grid pattern. Stick to smooth cotton or cotton-blend yarns for the best stitch definition.
Try it on as you go. Since this is a fitted garment, trying on the crop top and shorts periodically helps you catch fit issues before you’ve invested hours of work.
Skill Level and Time Investment
This pattern is rated intermediate. The mesh grid stitch itself is simple and repetitive, but you need to be comfortable with working in the round, seaming, creating three-dimensional appliques, and managing shaping at the straps and waistband.
Time estimates:
Final Thoughts on This Crochet Beach Set Pattern
I hope this coral starfish crochet crop top and shorts pattern brings you as much joy to make as it does to wear. The combination of simple mesh construction and those sweet coastal embellishments creates something truly special for your summer wardrobe.
Thank you so much for choosing to make this pattern. I genuinely appreciate every single maker who takes time out of their busy life to create something handmade. If you make this set, I would absolutely love to see your finished pieces! Tag me on Instagram or share in our Facebook group so I can celebrate your work.
If this pattern caught your eye, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you’re ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make this set. I love hearing about your yarn choices, any modifications you made, and how the fit worked out for you. Happy crocheting!
