I don’t know about you, but I absolutely melt when I see tiny hats with animal ears. There’s just something about a baby in a bear beanie that makes everyone within a ten foot radius stop and say "awww."
This chunky bear ear baby beanie delivers all that cuteness with none of the frustration. The squishy texture comes from a simple two row repeat, and those little ears? Way easier than they look.
Whether you’re making one for a baby shower gift or stocking up for craft fair season, this pattern works up fast in that gorgeous plush chenille yarn everyone loves. Let me walk you through every single step.
Why This Bear Beanie Pattern Works So Well
The magic of this baby beanie comes down to two things: the yarn choice and the stitch pattern. That cloud-like, super squishy texture you see in the photos? It comes from using a bulky weight chenille yarn combined with something called the moss stitch.
The moss stitch (sometimes called linen stitch or granite stitch) creates a dense, textured fabric that looks way more complicated than it actually is. Once you get the rhythm down, your hands will be on autopilot while you binge your favorite show.
The back loop only (BLO) ribbing at the brim gives the hat that stretchy, professional finish that keeps it snug on little heads. And those adorable bear ears? They’re crocheted separately and sewn on at the end, so you can position them exactly where you want them.
Skill Level and Time Estimate
I’d call this pattern easy to intermediate. If you’ve never worked the moss stitch before, the trickiest part is remembering to insert your hook into the chain spaces rather than the stitches themselves. Once that clicks, you’re golden.
Experienced crocheters can finish this beanie in about 2 to 3 hours. If the moss stitch is new to you, give yourself 3 to 5 hours and don’t rush it. The extra time is worth it when you see that beautiful texture emerge.
Finished Sizes
This pattern includes three sizes to fit babies from newborn through toddler age:
The pattern is written for the Baby size with Newborn and Toddler adjustments noted in parentheses throughout, formatted as Newborn (Baby, Toddler).
Materials You’ll Need
Yarn
You’ll need bulky weight yarn (category 6) in approximately 80 (100, 120) yards / 73 (91, 110) meters. A chenille style or chunky plush yarn gives you that gorgeous cloud-like texture shown in the photos.
My top yarn recommendations:
1. Bernat Blanket yarn in Vintage White, Taupe, or Baby Blue. This is the closest match to the photos and what I personally reach for. Use your 9 mm hook with this one.
2. Lion Brand Pound of Love held with two strands together. This worsted weight yarn doubled up gives excellent stitch definition with the moss stitch.
3. Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky in Champagne White, Coffee Bean, or Slate Blue. Great budget friendly option with a smooth finish.
Quick substitution note: Any bulky weight yarn that’s soft, machine washable, and baby safe will work beautifully. Just avoid yarns with a fuzzy halo like mohair blends since they’ll hide your pretty stitch texture.
Hook
US Size N-13 / 9 mm crochet hook
If you’re working with a stiffer chenille yarn, you might need to size up to a US P-15 / 10 mm hook to keep your fabric soft and pliable. Always trust your gauge swatch over the suggested hook size.
Notions
Gauge
Getting gauge right is essential for a hat that actually fits. With your US N-13 / 9 mm hook and bulky yarn, work a moss stitch swatch:
9 pattern repeats x 8 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches / 10 cm x 10 cm
One pattern repeat equals one single crochet (sc) plus one chain 1 (ch 1). So you’re looking at 9 of those (sc, ch 1) pairs across 4 inches.
If your swatch is too small, go up a hook size. Too big? Go down a hook size. I know swatching isn’t the fun part, but trust me on this one.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me define every abbreviation before we dive in. No guessing games here.
Special Stitches Explained
The Moss Stitch (Worked in the Round)
This stitch creates that interlocked, textured grid you see in all the photos. Here’s how it works:
Setup Round: Work (sc in first st, ch 1, sk 1 st) around, ending with a sl st to the first sc to join.
Continuing Rounds: Work (sc in the ch-sp from the previous round, ch 1, sk the sc from the previous round) around. Always insert your hook into the ch-sp, not into the sc. Join with sl st to first sc at the end of each round.
The key thing to remember: The sc and ch-sp positions swap every round. You’re always working your sc into the ch-sp from the round below. This creates that beautiful interlocked texture.
BLO Ribbing
Work sc in the back loop only of each stitch. This creates a stretchy, ridged texture that mimics knit ribbing and helps the brim hug baby’s head without being too tight.
Moss Stitch Decrease Unit
This is how we shape the crown. Insert hook into the ch-sp, yo and pull up a loop, insert hook into the next sc, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook, ch 1. This eliminates one full pattern unit from your count.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. The hat body is worked in joined rounds, not continuous spiral rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round if it helps you keep track.
2. You’ll work the brim first, then the body upward, then shape the crown with decreases.
3. When I say "(X units)" in the instructions, I mean X repetitions of (sc, ch 1). Each unit takes up 2 stitch positions around the round.
4. Chain 1 turning chains do NOT count as stitches in this pattern.
5. Ears are made separately and whip stitched to the top of the hat using the yarn tail.
Step by Step Crochet Instructions
The Brim
The brim is worked directly on a starting chain joined into a ring. No seaming required.
Foundation Chain: Chain 48 (56, 64). Taking care not to twist, join with sl st to form a ring.
Brim Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc in blo of each ch around, join with sl st to first sc. (48, 56, 64 sc)
Brim Round 2: Ch 1, sc in blo of each sc around, join with sl st to first sc. (48, 56, 64 sc)
Brim Round 3: Ch 1, sc in blo of each sc around, join with sl st to first sc. (48, 56, 64 sc)
Brim Round 4: Ch 1, sc in blo of each sc around, join with sl st to first sc. (48, 56, 64 sc)
Your brim should measure approximately 1.25 inches / 3 cm tall at this point. You’ll notice those pretty horizontal ridges forming from the BLO work.
Body Setup Round
This round transitions from the BLO ribbing to the moss stitch pattern. From here on, work through both loops.
Setup Round: Ch 1, (sc in first st, ch 1, sk 1 st) around, join with sl st to first sc. (24, 28, 32 units)
Body Rounds
Here’s where the texture really develops. Settle in and enjoy the rhythm.
Body Round 1: Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (24, 28, 32 units)
Body Round 2: Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (24, 28, 32 units)
Body Round 3: Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (24, 28, 32 units)
Body Round 4: Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (24, 28, 32 units)
Body Round 5: Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (24, 28, 32 units)
Body Round 6: Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (24, 28, 32 units)
Body Round 7: Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (24, 28, 32 units)
Body Round 8: Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (24, 28, 32 units)
Baby and Toddler sizes only: Work 1 (Baby) or 2 (Toddler) additional body rounds here, repeating the same instructions as Body Round 8, before proceeding to crown shaping.
Quick checkpoint: After the body rounds (before crown shaping), your hat body excluding the brim should measure approximately 4.5 (5, 5.5) inches / 11.5 (12.5, 14) cm tall.
Crown Shaping
Now we’ll decrease evenly to close the top of the hat. Take your time with these rounds.
Crown Round 1 (decrease round): Ch 1, work (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) 4 (5, 6) times, work 1 moss decrease unit, rep the sequence of (4 (5, 6) regular units, 1 decrease unit) around, ending with sl st to first sc.
Crown Round 2 (even round, no decrease): Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (20, 24, 28 units)
Crown Round 3 (decrease round): Ch 1, work (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) 3 (4, 5) times, work 1 moss decrease unit, rep the sequence around.
Crown Round 4 (even round): Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (16, 20, 24 units)
Crown Round 5 (decrease round): Ch 1, work (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) 2 (3, 4) times, work 1 moss decrease unit, rep the sequence around.
Crown Round 6 (even round): Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (12, 16, 20 units)
Crown Round 7 (decrease round): Ch 1, work (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) 1 (2, 3) time(s), work 1 moss decrease unit, rep the sequence around.
For Baby and Toddler only, continue:
Crown Round 8 (even round): Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (12, 16 units)
Crown Round 9 (decrease round): Work (1 regular + 1 decrease) repeated 4 times for Baby (from 12 to 8 units); work (2 regular + 1 decrease) repeated 4 times for Toddler (from 16 to 12 units). (8, 12 units)
For Toddler only:
Crown Round 10 (even round): Ch 1, (sc in ch-sp, ch 1, sk sc) around, join with sl st to first sc. (12 units)
Crown Round 11 (decrease round): Work (1 regular + 1 decrease) repeated 4 times, from 12 to 8 units. (8 units)
All sizes continue:
At this point all sizes have 8 units remaining (16 stitch positions).
Final Crown Round: Ch 1, work 8 moss decrease units evenly around, join with sl st to first sc. (4 units remain, 8 stitch positions)
Cut yarn leaving a 10 inch / 25 cm tail. Thread tail onto your yarn needle. Weave the needle through the front loop of each remaining stitch (8 stitches) around the crown opening. Pull tight to close the top completely. Knot securely and weave in the end to the inside of the hat.
Bear Ears (Make 2)
These sweet little ears are worked in continuous rounds without joining, using standard sc through both loops.
Rnd 1: MR, work 6 sc into ring, pull ring closed snugly. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5 (shaping round): (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 6: (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) around. (12 sc)
Sl st to next st to close round. Leave a 12 inch / 30 cm tail for sewing. Don’t stuff the ear. The chunky fabric holds its shape beautifully on its own.
Your finished ear should be a small rounded dome approximately 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm in diameter with a naturally cupped interior.
Attaching the Ears
Position the ears on the top of the hat, approximately 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm apart from each other at the center. They should sit just behind the front center of the hat top, with the cup of the ear facing downward so the dome faces upward.
Thread your 12 inch tail onto a yarn needle. Using a whip stitch, sew the base of each ear firmly to the hat top, working all the way around the ear base opening. Pull each stitch firmly so the ears won’t shift during use. Weave in the tail securely to the inside.
Both ears should stand upright and face forward, giving you that adorable bear silhouette.
Adding the Label (Optional)
That cute little "Baby Bear" leather label with the paw print? It goes on the front lower brim of the hat, positioned slightly right of center front.
Using a sewing needle and coordinating thread, stitch through the holes or corners of the label and through the ribbing of the brim. Knot securely on the inside. This finishing touch really takes the beanie from homemade to boutique quality.
Size Customization Tips
To size up: Add 8 stitches (4 units) to your starting chain for each size increment. This adds approximately 2 inches / 5 cm to the circumference. Add 1 to 2 additional even body rounds before crown shaping to increase height, and add one additional decrease and even round pair to the crown sequence.
To size down: Remove 8 stitches (4 units) from the starting chain. Remove 1 to 2 body rounds. Adjust the crown sequence accordingly.
To adjust height only: Simply add or remove even body rounds between the setup round and crown shaping. Each round adds approximately 0.5 inches / 1.3 cm of height.
Finishing and Care
Weave in all remaining ends securely, at least 1 inch in one direction and 1 inch in another direction to prevent unraveling.
Blocking (optional but recommended): For that polished, professional look, steam the hat over a balloon or hat form inflated to the finished circumference for 5 to 10 minutes. Don’t press the iron directly onto chenille yarns since they can melt or flatten. A light steam from 2 inches above the surface works perfectly.
Care instructions: Most recommended yarns are machine washable. Unless your yarn label specifies otherwise, machine wash cold on gentle cycle and lay flat to dry or tumble dry low. Do not iron directly.
You Did It!
Look at that adorable bear beanie! Whether you made it in cream, taupe, or baby blue (or went wild with a completely different color), you’ve created something that’s going to make someone incredibly happy.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I genuinely love seeing what you make, so please tag me on Instagram or share in our Facebook group when you finish yours. Seeing those little bear ears pop up in my feed absolutely makes my day.
If you loved this baby beanie crochet pattern, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it again when baby shower season hits. And if you make one (or three), I’d love to hear about it in the comments below. Happy hooking!
