This is a fitted crochet crop top featuring Bulbasaur’s face on the front panel. It uses single crochet throughout, worked flat in two panels and seamed together. The design includes appliqué eyes, surface embroidery details, and an optional stuffed bulb for the back.
If you have been wanting to combine your love of Pokémon with your crochet skills, this is your project. The construction is straightforward despite the impressive finished look. You will need confidence with appliqué work, surface stitching, and seaming a fitted garment.
I am walking you through every single step today. Materials, gauge, stitch definitions, panel construction, all the embellishments, and the optional 3D bulb. Let’s get into it.
About This Bulbasaur Crochet Pattern
This wearable crop top brings the beloved first-generation Pokémon to life in yarn form. The front panel displays Bulbasaur’s iconic face with large red and white eyes, a curved smile, scattered dark teal spots, and pointed ears at the upper corners. A row of white tooth points along the bottom hem mimics the creature’s underbelly.
The back panel is simpler, featuring plain teal fabric with matching spots. For the full character effect, you can add the optional stuffed bulb that represents the seed pod on Bulbasaur’s back.
Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced
The basic stitch is single crochet worked flat, which is simple enough. But this project requires comfortable colorwork through appliqué, surface slip stitch embroidery, working with multiple yarn colors, sewing seams evenly on a fitted garment, and optional 3D construction. If you have completed three or four finished garment projects, you will find this manageable.
Time Estimate: Approximately 20 to 35 hours total. The panels take roughly 8 to 12 hours. Appliqué construction, embroidery, and finishing add another 12 to 20 hours.
Finished Measurements: This pattern produces a finished bust measurement of 32 to 34 inches (81 to 86 cm) with approximately 0 to 2 inches of ease. Body length from underarm to hem is approximately 7.5 inches (19 cm). Strap length is adjustable.
Materials Needed
Yarn
You will need DK weight yarn in five colors:
Yarn Suggestions:
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Mint, Jade, White, Cranberry, and Black works beautifully. This 100% mercerized cotton holds stitch definition well and keeps the fitted top stable with minimal stretch.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK (100% acrylic) in Spearmint, Grass Green, Paper White, Pillar Box Red, and Jet Black is a budget-friendly option. The slight acrylic stretch can make the top more comfortable for everyday wear.
WeCrochet Dishie DK (100% cotton) in Aloe, Grass, White, Serrano, and Black is another mercerized cotton option with excellent stitch definition.
Substitution note: Any DK weight yarn (approximately 200 to 220 yards per 100g skein) that meets gauge will work. Cotton or cotton-blend yarns are recommended for a top worn against skin. Avoid fuzzy or heavily textured yarns for the main panels since surface crochet details need a clean backdrop.
Hook
Notions
Gauge
18 sc x 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) worked flat in single crochet using Color A and US size E-4 (3.5 mm) hook, after blocking.
Gauge is mandatory for this garment. A difference of even one stitch per 4 inches will shift the finished bust measurement by approximately 1.5 to 2 inches over the full circumference. Swatch, wash, and block your swatch before beginning.
If your gauge is too tight (more stitches per inch), go up one hook size. If your gauge is too loose (fewer stitches per inch), go down one hook size.
Abbreviations
All terms use US crochet terminology:
Special Stitches
Tooth Point
This creates the white points along the bottom hem:
1. Join yarn at the base of the edging position
2. Chain 4
3. Single crochet in the 2nd chain from hook
4. Single crochet in the next chain
5. Single crochet in the next chain
6. Slip stitch into the main fabric to anchor
This creates a small pointed tab resembling a tooth.
Surface Slip Stitch
This technique creates the smile and outline details:
1. With the RS facing you, hold working yarn behind the fabric
2. Insert hook from front to back through the fabric at the starting point
3. Catch the yarn behind the fabric and pull a loop to the front
4. Move to the next position along your line. Insert hook from front to back
5. Pull up a new loop, then draw it through the loop already on hook
6. Continue in this manner to draw lines and curves on the fabric surface
7. At the end, cut yarn and pull tail through to the back. Weave in securely
Magic Ring
1. Make a loop with the yarn, crossing the working yarn over the tail
2. Insert hook through the loop, catch working yarn, pull up a loop
3. Chain 1 (or as specified) to begin working into the ring
4. Work the required stitches into the ring
5. Pull the tail to close the ring tightly
Pattern Notes
Both panels are worked flat, back and forth in rows, beginning with a foundation chain. Every row begins with a turning chain of 1. This turning chain does NOT count as a stitch. Work your first single crochet into the first stitch of the row.
Mark the RS of both panels with a removable stitch marker. The RS faces outward on the finished garment.
Eye appliqués are worked in the round as flat circles and sewn on after panels are seamed. Spot patches are also flat appliqués sewn on. The smile, nostrils, and eye outlines are worked in surface slip stitch after all appliqués are attached. Tooth points are added as the final finishing step.
Stitch counts appear in parentheses at the end of each row.
Front Panel Instructions
The front panel begins at the hem and is worked upward. It is 36 stitches wide, producing a panel approximately 8 inches (20.3 cm) wide at gauge.
Foundation: With Color A and E-4 hook, chain 38.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (36 sc)
Rows 3 through 4: Rep Row 2. Turn after each row. (36 sc)
These first 4 rows form the lower hem area for the tooth edging.
Rows 5 through 38: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (36 sc)
You now have 38 rows total. The panel measures approximately 7.5 inches (19 cm) tall. Do not fasten off yet.
Checkpoint: After Row 38 the front panel should measure approximately 7.5 inches tall and 8 inches wide. If measurements differ by more than 0.5 inch, recheck gauge before continuing.
Front Panel Upper Shaping
The top edge divides into three sections: left strap zone (4 stitches), center neckline (28 stitches), and right strap zone (4 stitches).
Row 39: Ch 1, sc in first 4 sts, sl st in next st to anchor, fasten off. (Left strap zone established)
Rejoin Color A to stitch 5 of Row 38.
Row 39 center: Ch 1, sc in each of next 28 sts, sl st in following st. Fasten off.
Rejoin Color A to stitch 33 of Row 38.
Row 39 right: Ch 1, sc in each of last 4 sts. Fasten off. (Right strap zone)
Back Panel Instructions
Work exactly as the Front Panel through Row 38, following all the same instructions with Color A. Work Row 39 upper shaping the same as the Front Panel.
Checkpoint: Both panels should be identical in dimensions: approximately 8 inches wide and 7.5 inches tall before seaming.
Seaming the Panels
With Color A threaded on a tapestry needle, use a whip stitch or mattress stitch to seam the two panels together along both side edges (Rows 1 through 38). Leave the top edge entirely open. Leave the bottom hem edge open for the tooth edging.
After seaming, the tube should have a total circumference of approximately 32 inches and stand approximately 7.5 inches tall.
Straps (Make 2)
With Color A and E-4 hook (or D-3 hook for tighter straps), chain 5.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (4 sc)
Rows 2 through 75: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (4 sc)
75 rows at gauge produces a strap approximately 15 inches (38 cm) long. Adjust length by adding or removing rows. Try on the top and pin straps before finalizing length.
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for sewing.
Sew one end of each strap to the left and right strap zones on the front panel top edge. Sew the opposite end of each strap to the corresponding zones on the back panel. Straps can cross slightly over the shoulder or attach straight.
Ear Appliqués (Make 2)
With Color B (dark teal) and E-4 hook, chain 2.
Round 1: Work 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (3 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Inc in first st, sc in next st, inc in last st. (5 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Inc in first st, sc in each st to last st, inc in last st. (7 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (7 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (7 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Shape each ear into a triangle by folding the base slightly. Sew one ear to the upper left corner of the front panel and one to the upper right corner, angling them inward approximately 20 to 25 degrees from vertical.
Spot Appliqués
Small Spot (Make 7 total: 4 for front, 3 for back)
With Color B and E-4 hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull ring closed. Sl st to join. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around. Sl st to join. (12 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail. Creates a circle approximately 1 inch in diameter.
Oval Spot (Make 5 total: 3 for front, 2 for back)
With Color B and E-4 hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull ring closed. Do not join.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Inc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, inc in last st. (8 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (8 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail. Creates an oval approximately 0.75 x 1.4 inches.
Spot placement on front panel (measured from bottom-left corner):
Spots should not overlap the eye appliqués.
Spot placement on back panel: Distribute 5 spots across the back, leaving clear space at upper center back for the optional bulb.
Sew all spots using a whip stitch around each perimeter.
Eye Appliqués (Make 2 Sets)
Eye White (Make 2)
With Color C (white) and E-4 hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 8 sc into the ring. Pull closed. Sl st to join. (8 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around. Sl st to join. (16 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, (sc in next st, inc in next st) 8 times. Sl st to join. (24 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) 8 times. Sl st to join. (32 sc)
Fasten off. Each eye white measures approximately 2.2 inches in diameter.
Eye Iris (Make 2)
With Color D (deep red) and E-4 hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 8 sc into the ring. Pull closed. Sl st to join. (8 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around. Sl st to join. (16 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, (sc in next st, inc in next st) 8 times. Sl st to join. (24 sc)
Fasten off. Each iris measures approximately 1.6 inches in diameter.
Eye Pupil (Make 2)
With Color E (black) and D-3 hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull closed. Sl st to join. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around. Sl st to join. (12 sc)
Fasten off. Each pupil measures approximately 0.85 inch in diameter.
Assembling the Eyes
1. Center the iris on top of the eye white. Pin in place
2. Sew the iris to the eye white around its perimeter using Color D
3. Center the pupil on top of the iris. Pin in place
4. Sew the pupil to the iris using Color E
5. Place the completed eye assembly on the front panel. Position eyes approximately 1.5 to 2 inches down from the top edge, centered horizontally, spaced approximately 0.5 inch apart
6. Sew the entire assembled eye unit to the front panel around the outer perimeter
Surface Embroidery Details
All surface embroidery uses Color E (black) and the surface slip stitch method.
Eye Outlines: Work surface slip stitches just outside the perimeter of each eye white to create a black outline ring.
Upper Eyelids: Above each eye, work a slightly arched curved line approximately 3 to 4 stitches above the eye perimeter.
Nostrils: At approximately 1 inch below the eye whites, centered between them, make two small clusters of 2 to 3 surface slip stitches each.
Smile: Starting approximately 0.5 inch below the nostril marks, work a gentle upward-curving smile line spanning approximately 2.5 to 3 inches. The smile curves upward at both ends.
Corner Mouth Marks: At each end of the smile, add a small upward-flicking line of 2 to 3 surface stitches.
Bottom Hem Tooth Edging
With Color C (white), join yarn to any stitch along the foundation chain edge.
Step 1: Sc across the entire bottom edge, working 1 sc into each stitch of the foundation chain. (72 sc total around the bottom circumference)
Step 2: Work tooth points every 4 stitches across the front panel only (9 tooth points total). The back panel receives only the plain sc row.
For each tooth point position: Skip 2 sts, work Tooth Point into next st, skip 1 st. Repeat.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Optional Back Bulb
This stuffed sphere represents the seed pod on Bulbasaur’s back.
With Color B and E-4 hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull closed. Do not join; place marker. (6 sc)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)
Round 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) 6 times. (18 sc)
Round 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (24 sc)
Round 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (30 sc)
Round 6: (Sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (36 sc)
Round 7: (Sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (42 sc)
Round 8: (Sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (48 sc)
Rounds 9 through 14: Sc in each st around. (48 sc)
Round 15: (Sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog) 6 times. (42 sc)
Round 16: (Sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog) 6 times. (36 sc)
Round 17: (Sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog) 6 times. (30 sc)
Round 18: (Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog) 6 times. (24 sc)
Stuff firmly with polyester fiberfill.
Round 19: (Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) 6 times. (18 sc)
Round 20: (Sc in next st, sc2tog) 6 times. (12 sc)
Round 21: Sc2tog 6 times. (6 sc)
Fasten off. Thread tail through remaining 6 sts and pull closed.
The finished bulb measures approximately 3.5 to 4 inches in diameter.
Surface detail: Using Color A and surface slip stitch, work 6 to 8 radiating curved lines from the top center of the bulb outward to create the segmented appearance.
Attach the bulb to the center upper back, approximately 1.5 to 2 inches down from the top edge. Reinforce attachment stitches generously since the bulb adds weight.
Size Customization Tips
To increase bust size, add stitches in multiples of 2 to each panel. Adding 4 stitches total per panel adds approximately 1 inch to the finished circumference.
To decrease bust size, subtract stitches in multiples of 2 from each panel.
To lengthen the body, add more rows between Row 4 and Row 38. Each additional 2 rows adds approximately 0.4 inch.
To lengthen straps, increase the number of rows. Each 5 additional rows adds approximately 1 inch.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all yarn tails securely on the WS, working at least 1.5 inches in two different directions.
Wet block both panels by submerging in cool water, gently squeezing out excess water, laying flat on a blocking board, and pinning to finished dimensions. Allow to dry completely.
For cotton yarns, light steam blocking with an iron held 1 to 2 inches above the surface can further even out the fabric. Do not press directly onto the crochet.
Care Instructions
For cotton or cotton-blend yarns: Machine wash cold on gentle cycle, lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry.
For acrylic yarns: Machine wash warm on gentle cycle, lay flat to dry or tumble dry on low heat.
For the stuffed back bulb: Hand wash only, allow to air dry completely.
Store flat or folded to avoid stretching the straps.
Thank you so much for choosing this Bulbasaur crochet crop top pattern for your next project. I genuinely hope you enjoy making it as much as I enjoyed designing every little detail. If you make one, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo on Facebook.
This pattern is definitely one to save for later when you are ready to tackle it. Pin it to your favorite crochet board on Pinterest so you can find it easily. And if you have any questions or want to show off your finished top, drop a comment below. I read every single one!
