I’ve been looking for the perfect summer table runner pattern for ages, and this sunflower granny square design is absolutely my favorite find. The dimensional petals, the cheerful colors, and that gorgeous scalloped border make it look far more complicated than it actually is.
If you’ve been wanting to try something beyond basic granny squares but felt nervous about the jump, this is your project. The construction is straightforward once you understand the petal technique, and the results are genuinely stunning.
I rounded up everything you need to know right here, from the magic ring center to that beautiful lace edge. Let’s make something gorgeous for your table.
Why This Sunflower Table Runner Works So Well
This table runner is built from twenty individual granny squares, each featuring a raised sunflower motif that actually pops up from the fabric. The petals stand forward, creating texture you can see and feel. When you join all twenty squares in a four by five grid and add the scalloped border, you get a piece that looks like it belongs in a farmhouse magazine.
The color combination does a lot of heavy lifting here. Rust brown centers ground each flower. Bright yellow petals catch the light. Sage green frames the bloom like leaves. And cream ties everything together while creating that beautiful lacy edge.
Finished size: approximately 14 inches wide by 22 inches long after blocking. Each square measures about 3.25 inches before joining.
This is an intermediate level project. You should be comfortable with working in the round, changing colors, and following multi-step instructions. If you’ve made a few basic granny squares and want to level up, you’re ready for this.
Materials You’ll Need
Yarn (DK to light worsted weight, Size 3 to Size 4):
Recommended yarn options:
Hook: US size E-4 (3.5 mm) for squares and joining. Optional US size D-3 (3.25 mm) for border if your tension runs loose.
Notions:
Gauge
One completed sunflower square should measure 3.25 inches by 3.25 inches after blocking. In half double crochet worked flat, 18 stitches and 14 rows should equal 4 inches using a size E-4 hook.
Gauge matters here because twenty squares add up quickly. If your squares are too small, go up a hook size. Too large, go down a hook size. Make one test square before committing to all twenty.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me walk you through every stitch you’ll use. I’m defining each one so you never have to guess.
ch = chain. Wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop on hook. This is your foundation move.
sl st = slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion. Used for joining rounds.
sc = single crochet. Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops.
hdc = half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
dc = double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops.
tr = treble crochet. Yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), then yarn over and pull through 2 loops three times until one loop remains.
MR = magic ring. Also called magic loop or adjustable ring. This creates a tight, closed center for working in the round.
FPdc = front post double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post (the vertical bar) of the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, then complete as a regular double crochet.
FPtr = front post treble crochet. This is the star of the show. It creates those dimensional petals. Yarn over twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the designated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops three times. The stitch leans forward and stands up from the fabric.
ch-sp = chain space. The gap created by a chain in the previous round.
sk = skip. Pass over a stitch without working into it.
The Sunflower Granny Square Pattern
You’ll make 20 identical squares. Each one follows the same color sequence: rust brown for the center rounds, yellow for the petals, sage green for the background, and cream for the final frame.
Round 1 (Color A, Rust Brown)
Make a magic ring. Chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet). Work 11 dc into the ring. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Pull the ring tail to close the center tightly. (12 dc)
Round 2 (Color A, Rust Brown)
Do not turn. Chain 1. Work 1 sc into the same stitch as the join. Work 2 sc into each remaining stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color A and weave in the end. (24 sc)
Round 3 (Color B, Bright Yellow, Petal Round)
This is where the magic happens. Join Color B with sl st to any stitch of Round 2. Chain 1.
Now you’ll work front post treble crochets around the posts of the Round 2 stitches, not into the tops. Work 1 FPtr around the next Round 2 stitch, ch 1. Repeat this sequence around all 24 stitches: FPtr, ch 1, FPtr, ch 1, and so on.
Join with sl st to first FPtr. Fasten off Color B. (24 FPtr, 24 ch-1 spaces)
The petals will naturally stand forward from the fabric surface. That’s exactly what you want. The chain between each petal creates separation for a realistic sunflower look.
Round 4 (Color C, Sage Green)
Join Color C with sl st into any ch-1 space between petals. Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch).
Here’s the key: you’re working behind the petals, into those ch-1 spaces. Push the petals toward you as you work. Work 1 hdc into each ch-1 space around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (24 hdc)
The green round should be visible as a ring around the base of the petals when you look at the right side.
Round 5 (Color D, Cream)
This round transforms your circle into a square. Join Color D with sl st to any hdc. Chain 3 (counts as first dc).
Work 2 more dc into the same stitch. You now have 3 dc total in this stitch. Ch 2. This is your first corner.
Work the pattern around:
Repeat this sequence 2 more times.
Work 1 dc into each of the next 5 hdc. Work 2 dc into the same stitch as the beginning ch-3 to complete the final corner. Ch 2. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.
Stitch count check: Each side between corner ch-2 spaces has 11 dc. Four sides total 44 dc, plus 4 corner ch-2 spaces. (44 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)
Round 6 (Color D, Cream)
Chain 3 (counts as first dc). Work 1 dc into each of the next 2 dc. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the corner ch-2 space.
Work the pattern around:
Repeat around remaining 3 sides. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off Color D.
Stitch count check: Each side now has 15 dc between corner spaces. Four sides total 60 dc, plus 4 corner ch-2 spaces. (60 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)
Joining Your Squares
Lay out all 20 squares in a grid that is 4 columns wide and 5 rows tall. Make sure all sunflowers face the same direction before you start joining.
Step 1: Join Squares Into Rows
You’ll create 5 horizontal strips of 4 squares each.
Hold two squares with wrong sides together, right sides facing out. Using Color D and your E-4 hook, work a flat slip stitch join across one shared edge.
Start by working a sl st through both corner ch-2 spaces together. Then sl st through each corresponding pair of dc stitches across the side (15 sl sts). End with a sl st through both corner ch-2 spaces at the far end. Fasten off.
Per seam: 1 sl st in corner + 15 sl sts across + 1 sl st in corner = 17 sl sts total
Continue joining until you have 5 strips of 4 squares.
Step 2: Join Rows Together
Take Row 1 and Row 2 strips. Hold with wrong sides together. Work the flat slip stitch join across the long shared edge.
At intersection points where square seams meet, work 1 sl st through both seam junctions to secure neatly.
Join all 5 rows together the same way.
After joining: Your assembled runner should measure approximately 13 inches wide by 20.5 inches long before the border.
The Scalloped Border
The border creates that beautiful lace edge. Work entirely in Color D in one continuous round.
Border Round 1 (Foundation)
Join Color D with sl st to any corner ch-2 space. Chain 1.
Work 1 sc into the corner ch-2 space. Work 1 sc into each dc across each side, working 1 sc into each joining seam point as you pass over them. Work 3 sc into each corner ch-2 space.
Total: approximately 296 sc around the entire perimeter.
Join with sl st to first sc. Do not fasten off.
Border Round 2 (Chain Arch Preparation)
Chain 1. Work 1 sc into the first sc.
Work the pattern around: Skip 2 sc, ch 3, 1 sc into next sc. Repeat around.
At corners: Work 1 sc into first corner sc, ch 3, 1 sc into center corner sc, ch 3, 1 sc into third corner sc.
Total: approximately 102 ch-3 arches around the entire piece.
Join with sl st to first sc.
Border Round 3 (Scallop Round)
Chain 1. Work 1 sc into the same sc.
Work the pattern around: Work 5 dc into the next ch-3 arch (this forms one scallop). Work 1 sc into the next sc. Repeat around all arches.
Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color D.
Total: 102 scallops of 5 dc each, plus 102 sc between them.
Blocking Your Finished Runner
Blocking transforms your work from handmade to heirloom quality. It evens out your stitches, opens up the scallops, and helps the petals stand properly.
For cotton yarn (wet blocking):
Submerge the runner in cool water. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Roll in a clean towel and press. Lay flat on blocking mats and pin to 14 inches by 22 inches. Pin each scallop point outward. Allow to dry completely, usually 12 to 24 hours.
For acrylic blends (steam blocking):
Pin the runner to dimensions on blocking mats. Hold a steam iron 1 to 2 inches above the surface and apply steam evenly. Do not press the iron directly onto the crochet. Allow to cool completely before unpinning.
Care Instructions
For cotton: Machine wash gentle cycle, cool water, lay flat to dry. No tumble drying.
For acrylic: Machine wash gentle cycle, tumble dry on low.
Store flat or loosely rolled rather than folded to preserve the petal definition.
Tips for Success
Color changes: Fasten off completely after each color and weave in ends as you go. Carrying yarn on the wrong side can distort your squares.
Petal round troubleshooting: If your petals don’t pop forward, make sure you’re working around the post of the stitch, not into the top. The hook goes from front to back to front around that vertical bar.
Square consistency: Make one square first and measure it. If it’s not close to 3.25 inches, adjust your hook size before making the remaining 19.
Border tension: If your scalloped edge ruffles, your tension is too loose. If it pulls inward, it’s too tight. Adjust hook size for Round 3 only if needed.
Make It Your Own
Longer runner: Add another row of 4 squares for each additional 3.25 inches of length.
Wider runner: Add another column for each additional 3.25 inches of width.
Square centerpiece: Use a 4 by 4 grid (16 squares) for a roughly 14 inch square piece.
Larger squares: Go up one hook size and use worsted weight yarn for squares around 4 to 4.5 inches each.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I genuinely hope you love making it as much as I loved putting it together for you. These sunflowers bring so much warmth to any space, and I can already imagine how beautiful yours will look on your table.
If you make this runner, I would absolutely love to see it. Share your photos on Instagram or tag me on Facebook. There’s nothing better than seeing these designs come to life in your hands.
Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to start, and please leave a comment below if you give it a try. Happy crocheting!
