This is a bubble stitch baby romper worked flat in two panels, then seamed. It uses DK weight cotton yarn and a 3.5 mm hook. The colorful rainbow stripes pop against a dusty rose base, and those adorable bobbles give it serious texture.
If you have been wanting to try the bubble stitch but felt intimidated, this project is a great way to learn. The stitch itself is simple once you get the rhythm. You will be churning out rows of cheerful bobbles before you know it.
The finished romper fits a 3 to 6 month old baby and features button closures down each side for easy diaper changes. It is practical, it is cute, and it makes an incredible handmade baby gift.
Why This Rainbow Baby Romper Pattern Works So Well
I love how this design balances visual interest with wearability. The bubble stitch creates those satisfying little bobbles that look impressive but are not difficult to execute. Each colored stripe sits between plain single crochet rows in the dusty rose base color, which gives your eyes a break and makes the pattern easy to follow.
The construction is straightforward. You work two identical flat panels from the top of the bib down to the leg openings. Then you seam them together and add straps. The side buttons mean parents can lay the romper flat for changes, which anyone who has wrestled a squirmy baby will appreciate.
Cotton yarn is essential here for breathability against baby skin. The DK weight gives you a fabric that is sturdy enough to hold the bubble texture but soft enough for comfort.
Skill Level and Time Estimate
This pattern is rated intermediate. You should be comfortable with working flat rows, changing colors cleanly, and maintaining consistent stitch counts across many rows. The bubble stitch requires you to work multiple yarn overs into a single stitch and then draw through all loops at once. It sounds tricky, but I promise it clicks after a few tries.
If you have completed at least two garment projects and can handle color changes without panicking, you are ready for this.
Time estimate: Approximately 18 to 25 hours depending on your speed. Do not rush the bubble rows. Take your time, and the texture will reward you.
Finished Measurements
This pattern is written for size 3 to 6 months.
Size customization tips are included at the end if you need to go smaller or larger.
Materials You Will Need
Yarn
DK weight yarn (CYCA 3 / Light), 100% cotton or cotton blend recommended.
Yarn Suggestions
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK works beautifully. You would need approximately 2 balls of Color A and 1 ball each of Colors B through F.
Scheepjes Catona gives gorgeous stitch definition with a lovely sheen. You would need approximately 4 balls of Color A and 1 ball each of Colors B through F.
Rico Design Ricorumi DK is soft, affordable, and perfect for baby garments. You would need approximately 4 balls of Color A and 1 to 2 balls each of Colors B through F.
Substitution tip: Choose any DK weight yarn that achieves gauge. Cotton or cotton blend is strongly recommended over pure acrylic for breathability. Avoid fuzzy yarns because the bubble texture will be obscured.
Hook
US size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook (adjust to meet gauge)
Notions
Gauge (Please Check This)
18 single crochet stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm, worked flat in single crochet with US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, blocked.
Bubble stitch gauge: 1 bubble stitch cluster + 1 single crochet = approximately 0.44 inches / 1.1 cm wide. 1 bubble stitch row + 1 plain single crochet row = approximately 0.4 inches / 1 cm tall.
Gauge is critical for this garment. Please swatch and adjust your hook size as needed before beginning. A romper that does not fit is just a very cute disappointment.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me walk you through every abbreviation you will encounter. If you are new to reading patterns, bookmark this section.
Special Stitches Explained
Bubble Stitch (BS)
This is where the magic happens. The bubble stitch creates a rounded bobble that pops to the front of the fabric. It is always worked on wrong side rows so the bobbles appear on the right side when you flip your work.
Step 1: Insert hook into the indicated stitch.
Step 2: Yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).
Step 3: Yarn over and pull up another loop in the same stitch (3 loops on hook). You have now started 2 incomplete double crochets in the same stitch.
Step 4: Yarn over and pull up another loop in the same stitch (4 loops on hook). You have 3 incomplete double crochets started.
Step 5: Yarn over and pull up a final loop in the same stitch (5 loops on hook). You have 4 incomplete double crochets.
Step 6: Yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on the hook.
Step 7: Chain 1 to close and secure the bubble. Do not count this chain 1 as a stitch.
The bubble stitch counts as 1 stitch in your total stitch count.
Alternating Bubble Row (ABR)
On wrong side rows designated as bubble rows, work: (sc 1, BS 1) repeat across, ending with sc 1 if stitch count requires. The bubble stitches and single crochets alternate so every bubble is separated by a single crochet on either side.
On right side rows between bubble rows, work plain sc across all stitches. These plain rows allow the bubbles to sit properly.
Button Loop (BL)
At the designated side edge position, work: ch 3, sl st into the same edge stitch. This creates a small loop through which the button shank passes.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Read these before starting. They will save you confusion later.
1. The romper is worked in two identical flat panels (front and back). Both use the same instructions.
2. Color changes: Change to the new color on the last yarn over of the last stitch of the current row. Cut and rejoin colors to keep floats clean since this is a baby garment. You can carry Color A loosely up the side edge between its uses.
3. The pattern begins at the bottom of the bib bodice, works down to the crotch, and the leg openings are shaped by working left and right leg portions separately.
4. Stripe color sequence for bubble rows: Color B (cream), Color C (yellow), Color D (coral), Color E (mint), Color F (teal). This 5 color sequence repeats twice through the body.
5. Each bubble stripe consists of: 1 wrong side bubble row in the stripe color, framed by 1 right side plain sc row in Color A on each side.
6. Turning chains: For sc rows, chain 1 and turn. The turning chain does NOT count as a stitch.
7. Block both panels before seaming to ensure even dimensions.
Crochet Pattern Instructions
The Front Panel
Bodice Section (Bib Top)
With Color A, make a foundation chain of 37 chains.
Row 1 (RS): Starting in the 2nd chain from hook, sc across. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc across all stitches. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 5 (RS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (36 sc)
Rows 1 through 5 form the ribbed appearance top band of the bib. It should measure approximately 1 inch / 2.5 cm tall.
Bodice Stripe Section
Row 6 (WS, bubble row): Join Color B at beginning of row. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) repeat across. Turn. (36 sts total: 18 sc + 18 BS)
Row 7 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across all 36 sts. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 8 (WS, bubble row): Join Color C. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across. Turn. (36 sts)
Row 9 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 10 (WS, bubble row): Join Color D. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across. Turn. (36 sts)
Row 11 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 12 (WS, bubble row): Join Color E. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across. Turn. (36 sts)
Row 13 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 14 (WS, bubble row): Join Color F. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across. Turn. (36 sts)
Row 15 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (36 sc)
Checkpoint: After Row 15, the bib section should measure approximately 3.5 inches / 9 cm from the top edge. You have completed one full rainbow stripe sequence.
Body Expansion Rows
Now you will begin expanding the width to form the rounded bubble romper body shape.
Row 16 (WS): Ch 1. Work 3 sc in first st (increase), sc across to last st, work 3 sc in last st (increase). Turn. (40 sc)
Row 17 (RS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (40 sc)
Row 18 (WS, bubble row): Join Color B. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across. Turn. (40 sts)
Row 19 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (40 sc)
Row 20 (WS): Ch 1. Work 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, work 2 sc in last st. Turn. (42 sc)
Row 21 (RS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (42 sc)
Row 22 (WS, bubble row): Join Color C. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across. Turn. (42 sts)
Row 23 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (42 sc)
Row 24 (WS): Ch 1. Work 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, work 2 sc in last st. Turn. (44 sc)
Row 25 (RS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (44 sc)
Row 26 (WS, bubble row): Join Color D. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across. Turn. (44 sts)
Row 27 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (44 sc)
Row 28 (WS): Ch 1. Work 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, work 2 sc in last st. Turn. (46 sc)
Row 29 (RS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (46 sc)
Row 30 (WS, bubble row): Join Color E. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across. Turn. (46 sts)
Row 31 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (46 sc)
Row 32 (WS): Ch 1. Work 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, work 2 sc in last st. Turn. (48 sc)
Row 33 (RS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (48 sc)
Row 34 (WS, bubble row): Join Color F. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across. Turn. (48 sts)
Row 35 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (48 sc)
Checkpoint: After Row 35, the panel should measure approximately 7 inches / 18 cm from the top edge and approximately 10.5 inches / 26.5 cm wide. This is the widest point.
Widest Body Rows
Row 36 (WS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (48 sc)
Row 37 (RS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (48 sc)
Row 38 (WS, bubble row): Join Color B. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across. Turn. (48 sts)
Row 39 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (48 sc)
Row 40 (WS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (48 sc)
Row 41 (RS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (48 sc)
Row 42 (WS, bubble row): Join Color C. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across. Turn. (48 sts)
Row 43 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (48 sc)
Row 44 (WS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (48 sc)
Row 45 (RS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (48 sc)
Row 46 (WS, bubble row): Join Color D. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across. Turn. (48 sts)
Row 47 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (48 sc)
Leg Opening Shaping
Now divide the panel into left and right leg sections. You will work each leg opening separately.
Checkpoint: Before beginning leg shaping, the panel should measure approximately 9.5 inches / 24 cm from the top edge.
Right Leg Section
Row 48 (WS): Ch 1, sc across first 22 sts only. Leave remaining 26 sts unworked. Turn. (22 sc)
Row 49 (RS): Ch 1, sc2tog (decrease at inner leg edge), sc across to end. Turn. (21 sc)
Row 50 (WS, bubble row): Join Color E. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (20 sts)
Row 51 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc2tog, sc across to end. Turn. (19 sc)
Row 52 (WS): Ch 1, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (18 sc)
Row 53 (RS): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc across to end. Turn. (17 sc)
Row 54 (WS, bubble row): Join Color F. Ch 1, (sc 1, BS 1) across, working sc2tog at the end as a decrease. Turn. (16 sts)
Row 55 (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across all sts. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 56 (WS): Ch 1, sc across all sts. Turn. (16 sc)
Fasten off Color A. Place a stitch marker at each end of Row 56 to mark the crotch edge.
Right Leg Border
With RS facing, join Color A at the inner leg corner. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire right leg opening, working approximately 1 sc per row end on vertical edges and 1 sc per stitch on horizontal edges. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Left Leg Section
Return to the unworked stitches left after Row 47. With WS facing, skip the center 4 sts (the crotch gusset space) and rejoin Color A in the next stitch.
Row 48L (WS): Ch 1, sc across remaining 22 sts. Turn. (22 sc)
Row 49L (RS): Ch 1, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (21 sc)
Row 50L (WS, bubble row): Join Color E. Ch 1, sc2tog at beginning, (sc 1, BS 1) across remaining sts. Turn. (20 sts)
Row 51L (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (19 sc)
Row 52L (WS): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc across remaining sts. Turn. (18 sc)
Row 53L (RS): Ch 1, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (17 sc)
Row 54L (WS, bubble row): Join Color F. Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 1, (BS 1, sc 1) across remaining sts. Turn. (16 sts)
Row 55L (RS): Join Color A. Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 56L (WS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (16 sc)
Fasten off.
Left Leg Border
Work the same as Right Leg Border. Join at the inner leg corner and work sc evenly around the leg opening. Fasten off and weave in ends.
The Back Panel
Work the back panel using the exact same instructions as the front panel, from Row 1 through Row 56L including both leg sections. The back panel is identical to the front panel. Make 1 back panel.
Straps (Make 2)
With Color A, make a foundation chain of 7.
Row 1 (RS): Starting in 2nd chain from hook, sc across. Turn. (6 sc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (6 sc)
Repeat Row 2 until strap measures 9 inches / 23 cm from beginning (approximately 45 rows total).
Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch / 30 cm tail for sewing.
Finishing Your Baby Romper
Blocking
Before assembling, wet block both panels and the two straps. Soak them in cool water for 15 minutes. Gently press out excess water in a towel. Lay flat and pin to the correct finished measurements. Allow to dry completely, 12 to 24 hours.
Seaming
With right sides facing outward and wrong sides together, hold the front and back panels together. Using Color A and a tapestry needle, seam both side edges using a whip stitch or mattress stitch from the bottom of the bib top downward on each side. Stop approximately 1 inch / 2.5 cm from the widest point of each side to leave room for button loop openings.
Button Loops on Front Panel Side Edges
With Color A and RS of front panel facing, join yarn at one side edge at the top of the side opening below the bodice.
Work: 1 sc into edge, (ch 3, sl st into same st) to form loop, sc 3 into edge, (ch 3, sl st) to form loop, sc 3 into edge, (ch 3, sl st) to form loop, sc 3 into edge, (ch 3, sl st) to form loop, then sc down remaining edge to leg opening. Fasten off.
Repeat on opposite side edge.
Adjust spacing so the 4 loops fall evenly along the side opening. Approximately 5 to 6 rows between each loop position.
Sewing Buttons on Back Panel
Sew 4 buttons to the back panel side edge on each side, positioned to align exactly with the 4 button loops on the front panel. Use strong cotton thread that matches Color A.
Attaching Straps
Position one strap at each top corner of the back panel, approximately 1 inch / 2.5 cm in from the edge. Fold the strap end over the top edge and whip stitch securely to the wrong side. The strap should cross over the shoulder and attach to the front panel top edge approximately 1 inch / 2.5 cm in from the front edge. Fold and sew strap end to wrong side of front panel the same way. Sew one decorative large button through the strap and front panel at the front attachment point. Repeat for the second strap.
Crotch Seam
Align the crotch edges of the front and back leg panels (Row 56 edges) and seam together using a flat slip stitch seam or whip stitch. The 4 unworked center stitches form the crotch gusset width.
Weaving in Ends
Weave in all loose yarn ends on the wrong side, working ends in at least 2 directions to prevent unraveling.
Final Blocking
Lightly steam or wet block the assembled romper to even out seams and settle the bubble stitches. Allow to dry flat.
Size Customization Tips
To size up to 6 to 12 months: Add 6 stitches to the starting foundation chain (43 chain instead of 37, for 42 working sc). Continue adding 2 stitches every expansion row, ending at 54 sc instead of 48 sc. Add 2 additional rows at the widest body section before leg shaping. Extend strap length to 10 inches / 25.5 cm.
To size down to 0 to 3 months: Subtract 4 stitches from the starting chain (33 chain instead of 37, for 32 working sc). Reduce expansion rows to reach a maximum of 42 sc instead of 48 sc. Remove 2 rows from the widest body section. Reduce strap length to 8 inches / 20 cm.
Always adjust bubble stitch rows so stitch count remains divisible by 2.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with a gentle baby safe detergent. Do not wring. Press flat in a clean towel to remove excess water. Lay flat to dry away from direct sunlight. If using machine washable yarn, a gentle cool cycle in a mesh laundry bag is acceptable. Do not tumble dry. Do not iron directly over bubble stitches.
You Did It!
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. I hope you love making this rainbow striped baby romper as much as I loved designing it. The bubble stitch really does get easier with practice, and those cheerful rainbow stripes are worth every color change.
If you make one, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your finished projects genuinely makes my day.
Go ahead and save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And if you have any questions or want to share your progress, drop a comment below. I always love hearing from you!
