This dress is SO CUTE, and I am beyond excited to share it with you today! Those flutter sleeves, the scalloped neckline, the sweet ribbed skirt. This is the kind of project that looks like it belongs in a boutique window, but you can absolutely make it yourself. If you have been wanting to create something truly special for a little one in your life, this is it. The construction is clever, the finished look is polished, and every single stitch is worth it.
I designed this two tone beauty with spring photos and special occasions in mind. But honestly? It is just as perfect for everyday adventures. The lavender bodice paired with that mint green skirt creates the sweetest color combination. And those flutter sleeves add just the right amount of whimsy without being fussy.
Let me walk you through everything you need to make this adorable toddler dress. From materials to the final scalloped hem, I have got you covered.
About This Crochet Pattern
This Lavender Ruffle Sleeve Toddler Dress is designed for toddlers aged 2 to 4 years. The construction moves from the top down, starting with a crocheted lavender bodice featuring decorative flutter sleeves and a scalloped neckline. The bodice joins seamlessly to a mint green ribbed skirt with a subtle flared hem that gives it that beautiful A-line silhouette.
One of my favorite details is the small keyhole opening at the back. It makes getting the dress on and off so much easier, which any parent will appreciate. The skirt uses front post and back post double crochet stitches to create that clean vertical ribbed texture you see in the photos.
Skill Level
This is an intermediate level pattern. You should be comfortable with working in the round, yoke shaping with increases, post stitches for ribbing, and picking up stitches along edges. The flutter sleeves involve a small multi step construction that requires careful attention. No advanced colorwork is needed, but the two color join and keyhole closure require careful finishing.
Time Estimate
Plan for approximately 12 to 18 hours depending on your crocheting speed and experience. This is not a quick weekend project, but every hour you invest shows in the final result.
Finished Measurements
This pattern is written for size 2T with the following finished measurements:
Size customization tips appear at the end of the instructions if you need to adjust.
Materials You Will Need
Yarn
Yarn Suggestions
Option 1: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Lavender and Mint. This 100% mercerized cotton DK yarn offers excellent stitch definition and is machine washable, making it ideal for children’s garments.
Option 2: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK in Dusty Lilac and Spearmint Green. A smooth, high twist cotton that produces crisp post stitch ribbing and consistent gauge. Affordable and widely available online.
Option 3: We Are Knitters The Petite Wool in Lavender and Sage. A soft DK weight wool cotton blend with a subtle halo that softens the texture beautifully. Hand wash recommended.
Substitution note: Choose any DK weight yarn that achieves the stated gauge. Natural fibers such as cotton or cotton blend are strongly recommended for durability, breathability, and ease of care in children’s clothing. Avoid yarns with excessive stretch, as this will distort the ribbed skirt.
Tools
Gauge
Getting gauge right is critical for this garment. Please take time to swatch both stitch patterns before beginning.
With US G-6 (4.0 mm) hook:
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me break down all the stitches and abbreviations you will encounter. If you are newer to crochet, take a moment to familiarize yourself with these before diving in.
Special Stitches Explained
These special stitches create the beautiful textures in this dress. Do not worry if they are new to you. I will walk you through each one.
Shell Stitch
Work 5 double crochet (dc) in the same stitch or space. This creates a fan shaped shell. When used in the ruffle, shells are placed every 3 stitches to create the scalloped flutter effect.
Scallop Edging
This creates the decorative scallop border at the neckline, sleeves, and hem.
1. Slip stitch into first stitch
2. Chain 1
3. Skip 1 stitch, work 5 dc in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, slip stitch into next stitch
4. Repeat step 3 across or around
Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc)
This stitch creates raised vertical ridges on the front of your work.
1. Yarn over
2. Insert hook from front to back to front around the post (the vertical bar) of the stitch below
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
4. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops
5. Yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops
The stitch sits in front of the fabric, creating that beautiful raised ridge.
Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc)
This is the partner to FPdc and creates the grooves in ribbing.
1. Yarn over
2. Insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch below
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
4. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops
5. Yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops
The stitch recedes behind the fabric, creating the paired groove of the rib.
2-dc Increase in Ribbing
Work 2 FPdc (or 2 BPdc, matching the rib column) around the same post. This adds one stitch to the rib count and is used sparingly at the waist to skirt transition to produce gentle flare.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Read through these notes carefully. They will save you confusion later.
The bodice is worked in joined rounds from the top down, beginning at the neckline. Yoke increases are worked at four raglan points (two front, two back) to shape the chest and armholes simultaneously.
The sleeves are not full sleeves. Each flutter sleeve is a small crocheted ruffle panel picked up from the armhole edge and worked outward, then edged with the scallop stitch.
The skirt is worked as a flat panel in rows using front post and back post double crochet ribbing, then seamed at the center back. This gives the skirt its clean vertical pleated appearance.
The keyhole back opening is formed naturally during yoke construction by working the back bodice flat for a short section, then joining. A button or snap is sewn at the top.
All yarn joins are made at the beginning of a round or row. Weave in ends securely.
When transitioning from Yarn A to Yarn B at the waist, join Yarn B with a slip stitch and fasten off Yarn A neatly.
The pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.
A turning chain of 1 counts as a single crochet throughout the bodice. A turning chain of 2 does not count as a stitch in the skirt ribbing.
Step by Step Instructions
Section 1: Neckline Foundation and Yoke
With Yarn A and US G-6 hook, chain 61.
Foundation Row (RS): Starting in second chain from hook, sc in each chain across. Turn. (60 sc)
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (60 sc)
These two flat rows create the back neckline before joining to work in the round. The keyhole opening will remain at the center back.
Place markers as follows to define raglan sections:
Reset Stitch Distribution (60 sc total):
Join to Work in the Round
Row 2 (RS, joining row): Ch 1, sc across 60 sts. At end of row, carefully join the two short ends of the foundation to form a circle by slip stitching the last stitch to the first stitch of the foundation row. This closes the neckline ring. The keyhole gap at the center back is intentional and will be finished later. Now work in joined rounds. (60 sc)
Neckline Edging
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (60 sc)
Scallop Edging Round (neckline):
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sl st in first st, (sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sl st in next st) 15 times, join with sl st. Fasten off Yarn A temporarily (leave long tail).
60 sts divided by 4 sts per scallop repeat = 15 repeats exactly. Neckline edging complete.
Rejoin Yarn A with a sl st at the base of the neckline to continue the yoke body downward.
Yoke Body
Work the yoke from the base of the neckline downward. Re-establish 60 working stitches at the base of the neckline edging by picking up sc through the round below the edging round.
Setup Rnd: Join Yarn A, ch 1, sc evenly around the pre-edging round, placing stitch markers at raglan points. (60 sc total, 4 markers placed)
Raglan Increase Rounds
Each increase round: sc to 1 st before marker, inc in next st, sm, inc in next st, continue. 8 increases per round (2 at each of 4 raglan points). The round begins and ends at the center back join.
Rnd 1 (Increase Rnd): Sc to 1 st before marker, inc, sm, inc; rep from 4 times, sc to end of rnd, join. (68 sc)
Rnd 2 (Plain Rnd): Sc in each st around, join. (68 sc)
Rnd 3 (Increase Rnd): Sc to 1 st before marker, inc, sm, inc; rep from 4 times, sc to end, join. (76 sc)
Rnd 4 (Plain Rnd): Sc in each st around, join. (76 sc)
Rnd 5 (Increase Rnd): Sc to 1 st before marker, inc, sm, inc; rep from 4 times, sc to end, join. (84 sc)
Rnd 6 (Plain Rnd): Sc in each st around, join. (84 sc)
Rnd 7 (Increase Rnd): Sc to 1 st before marker, inc, sm, inc; rep from 4 times, sc to end, join. (92 sc)
Rnd 8 (Plain Rnd): Sc in each st around, join. (92 sc)
Rnd 9 (Increase Rnd): Sc to 1 st before marker, inc, sm, inc; rep from 4 times, sc to end, join. (100 sc)
Rnd 10 (Plain Rnd): Sc in each st around, join. (100 sc)
Stitch distribution after Rnd 10:
Checkpoint: After completing Rnd 10, the yoke should measure approximately 3.5 to 4 inches (9 to 10 cm) from the neckline. Stitch count should be exactly 100 sc.
Separate Sleeves from Body
Rnd 11 (Separation Rnd): Sc across 15 right back sts, chain 6, skip 18 right sleeve sts (pm these 18 sts on a holder), sc across 34 front sts, chain 6, skip 18 left sleeve sts (pm on holder), sc across 15 left back sts, join. The 6 ch bridges each armhole underarm.
Stitch count for body after separation: 15 + 6 + 34 + 6 + 15 = 76 sc.
Rnd 12: Sc in each sc and each ch around (treat each ch as a sc), join. (76 sc)
Lower Bodice
Rnds 13 through 22 (10 rounds): Sc in each st around, join each rnd. (76 sc)
Work all 10 rounds without increases. This creates the straight lower bodice section from underarm to waist.
Checkpoint: After Rnd 22, the bodice should measure approximately 7 inches (18 cm) from the neckline. Stitch count should be exactly 76 sc.
Fasten off Yarn A after Rnd 22.
Section 2: Keyhole Back Finishing
The keyhole opening at the center back should now be reinforced. Using Yarn A and a yarn needle, carefully work a row of single crochet around the keyhole edges: join Yarn A at the bottom of the keyhole opening, ch 1, sc evenly up one side (approximately 6 sc), work 3 sc in the top corner, sc evenly down the other side. Fasten off. Sew a small button or attach a snap at the top of the keyhole. Weave in all ends.
Section 3: Skirt
The skirt is worked as a flat ribbed panel in turned rows of FPdc and BPdc, then seamed at the center back.
Picking Up Stitches for Skirt
Join Yarn B with a sl st at the waist edge of the bodice at the center back. Working along the bottom edge of the bodice (into the bottom loops of Rnd 22), pick up and sc evenly around: 76 sc total. Join with sl st to first sc. (76 sc)
For the flat skirt panel, turn and work as flat rows. Do NOT join at the end of rows.
Skirt Foundation Row
Foundation Row (RS, Yarn B): Ch 2 (does not count as st), dc in each sc across. Turn. (76 dc)
Row 1 (WS): Ch 2, (BPdc in next dc, FPdc in next dc) across. Turn. (76 sts)
On WS rows, BPdc and FPdc are swapped relative to RS appearance so the vertical ridges appear continuous.
Row 2 (RS): Ch 2, (FPdc in next st, BPdc in next st) across. Turn. (76 sts)
Rows 1 and 2 form the rib pattern. Repeat these two rows for the skirt length.
Rows 3 through 6: Rep Rows 1 and 2 twice. (76 sts each row)
Skirt Flare Increase Rows
Increase Row 1 (Row 7, RS): Ch 2, (rib 18 sts in pattern, work 2 FPdc in next st) 4 times, rib to end. Turn. (80 sts)
Rows 8 through 12: Work even in established rib pattern. (80 sts each row)
Increase Row 2 (Row 13, RS): Ch 2, (rib 19 sts in pattern, work 2 FPdc in next st) 4 times, rib to end. Turn. (84 sts)
Rows 14 through 20: Work even in established rib pattern. (84 sts each row)
Increase Row 3 (Row 21, RS): Ch 2, (rib 20 sts in pattern, work 2 FPdc in next st) 4 times, rib to end. Turn. (88 sts)
Rows 22 through 32: Work even in established rib pattern. (88 sts each row)
Hem Scallop Edging
With RS facing, working across the bottom edge of the skirt, join Yarn A with a sl st in first st.
Hem Edging Row: Ch 1, (sl st in next st, sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st) across to last st, sl st in last st, fasten off.
88 sts divided by 4 = 22 repeats exactly.
Checkpoint: The dress should measure approximately 18 inches (46 cm) from neckline to hem.
Seam the Skirt
Fold the skirt panel with right sides together, aligning the two short ends at the center back. Using Yarn B and a yarn needle, seam the center back skirt edges together using a whip stitch or slip stitch seam, leaving the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) open to align with the keyhole opening. Secure ends.
Section 4: Flutter Sleeves
The 18 held sleeve stitches from each armhole plus the 6 underarm chain stitches form the armhole opening. Total armhole sts per side: 18 + 6 = 24 sts.
Join Yarn A at the underarm with a sl st.
Sleeve Setup Round:
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc around the entire armhole opening (18 held sts + 6 underarm chain sts), join with sl st. (24 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (24 sc)
Flutter Ruffle:
The flutter is worked as a ruffle from the armhole edge outward, increasing aggressively to create the beautiful gathered effect. Work shell stitches around the armhole edge, then finish with the scallop edging to match the neckline and hem.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
Finishing Your Toddler Dress
Weave in all remaining ends securely. Block the dress gently if desired, laying flat and shaping the skirt to hang properly. The ribbing will relax slightly after blocking, giving the skirt its beautiful drape.
Give your finished dress a light steam or wet block to even out the stitches and help the scalloped edges lay flat.
Tips for Success
Take your time with the yoke. The raglan shaping is the foundation of the entire dress. Count your stitches after every increase round.
Mark your raglan points clearly. Use different colored stitch markers for each section if it helps you keep track.
Check gauge for both stitch patterns. The bodice and skirt use different stitches with different gauges. Swatch both.
Practice post stitches first if you are not comfortable with them. The ribbed skirt depends on consistent FPdc and BPdc tension.
This crochet toddler dress pattern creates such a special garment. Whether you are making it for your own little one, a grandchild, or a gift, it is guaranteed to become a treasured piece.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern! I absolutely love seeing your finished projects. If you make this sweet dress, please share a photo with me on Instagram or in our Facebook group. Seeing these little dresses come to life in your yarn choices makes my whole day.
Do not forget to pin this Lavender Ruffle Sleeve Toddler Dress crochet pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And if you have any questions along the way, drop a comment below. I would love to hear from you!
