I don’t know about you, but I have a serious soft spot for tiny occasion dresses. There’s just something about a beautifully crafted toddler dress that makes my crafter heart sing.
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This Lavender Rose Bow Dress has all the charm you could want: a fitted bodice, a dreamy lace skirt, flutter sleeves, and the most adorable oversized bow at the waist. Plus those sweet coiled roses and leaves along the hem? Absolute perfection.
If you’ve been searching for a showstopper project that combines garment construction with decorative appliqué work, you’ve found it. Let’s dive into this gorgeous design together.
About This Pattern
This crochet dress pattern creates a stunning toddler dress sized for approximately 2 to 3 years old. The finished chest measures about 56 cm (22 inches), designed to fit a body chest of 50 to 52 cm with comfortable ease. The total length from shoulder to hem runs approximately 46 to 49 cm.
Important note: This is a design draft pattern that has not been crochet tested. I strongly recommend making a complete sample, measuring it carefully, and making any needed corrections before creating a final version or sharing with others. The AI generated design illustration shows the intended look, but stitch level details in your finished piece may vary slightly.
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout. The skill level sits at intermediate to advanced, involving garment assembly, lace edging, small shaped motifs, and detailed appliqué work. If you’ve made a few garments before and feel comfortable with shaping, you’ll do great here.
Materials You’ll Need
Yarn
You’ll be working with sport weight or fine weight cotton yarn, approximately 125 meters per 50 grams. Here’s the color breakdown:
The total yarn needed comes to approximately 1,050 meters before the small contrast amounts. Your actual usage may vary, so measure carefully on your sample.
Tools
Adjust your garment hook size as needed to achieve the correct gauge.
Gauge
Getting gauge right matters so much for garments. Your blocked gauge should be:
20 double crochet (dc) and 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm
To check your gauge, chain 32. Work a double crochet (dc) in the third chain from the hook and in each remaining chain across. You’ll have 30 dc. Continue working 18 rows total. Wash and dry your swatch exactly as you plan to care for the finished dress, then measure the central 20 dc and 12 rows.
If your measurements don’t match, change your hook size and swatch again. This step truly makes or breaks your finished fit, so please don’t skip it.
Abbreviations and Terminology
Let me walk you through all the stitches and terms you’ll encounter:
Counting rule: Your turning chain 1 or chain 2 does NOT count as a stitch anywhere in this pattern. When joining rounds, join to the first actual stitch. Mark that stitch and count every shaping row carefully.
Front Bodice Instructions
Rows 1 through 14
With lavender yarn and your 3.5 mm hook, chain 58.
Row 1: Work a dc in the third chain from hook and in each remaining chain across. (56 dc) Turn.
Rows 2 through 14: Chain 2, then dc in every stitch across. (56 dc) Turn after each row. Remember, do not work a stitch into your turning chain.
Armhole Shaping: Row 15
Slip stitch in the first 4 stitches. Chain 2, then dc in each of the next 48 stitches. Leave the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. (48 dc)
Those 4 unworked stitches on each side create a 2 cm underarm ledge.
Rows 16 through 20
Chain 2, dc in all 48 stitches. Turn after each row.
At gauge, your full panel should now measure about 16.7 cm tall. Place removable markers around the outermost 10 stitches at each edge. The central 28 stitches will form your neckline opening.
First Shoulder: Rows 21 through 26
Chain 2, dc in the first 10 stitches only. Leave the remaining 38 stitches unworked and turn. (10 dc)
Work 5 more rows of 10 dc, turning each row. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Second Shoulder: Rows 21 through 26
With the same face of the panel toward you, attach yarn at the opposite outer edge of Row 20. Working toward the center, chain 2 and dc across only the outermost 10 stitches. Turn.
Work 5 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.
Both shoulder straps should have 6 rows above Row 20.
Front Bodice Checkpoint
Take a moment to measure your front panel:
Don’t worry if the neckline looks square right now. Decorative edging added later will create a softer curved visual outline.
Back Bodice Instructions
Rows 1 through 14
Using lavender, make a second panel exactly as you did for the front: chain 58, work 56 dc each row for 14 rows. Mark the center point between stitches 28 and 29.
Left Half: Rows 15 through 23
Row 15: Slip stitch in the first 4 stitches. Chain 2, dc in the next 24 stitches, stopping at your center marker. Leave the other half unworked. Turn. (24 dc)
Rows 16 through 23: Chain 2, dc in each stitch. Turn. (24 dc) Fasten off.
Right Half: Rows 15 through 23
Return to the unworked half of Row 14. Attach yarn at the center marker and work toward the outer edge: chain 2, dc in the next 24 stitches, leaving the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. (24 dc)
Work Rows 16 through 23 the same as the left half. Fasten off.
The center edges stay separate to create your back opening.
Back Shoulders: Rows 24 through 26
On each half, attach yarn at the outer armhole edge of Row 23. Work dc across only the outermost 10 stitches. Leave the inner 14 stitches unworked. Turn.
Work 2 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.
The two 14 stitch inner gaps combine to create a 28 stitch back neckline.
Joining the Bodice
Block both panels to your target measurements. With right sides together, use mattress stitch to join each pair of 10 stitch shoulder tops. For mattress stitch, align your matching edges and pick up one small strand from each edge alternately with your tapestry needle. Tighten gradually so the seam lies flat without pulling the fabric shorter.
Join the side edges from the foundation row through Row 14 only, matching rows carefully. Keep all upper edges open for the armholes. Turn right side out.
Before moving to the skirt, your lower edge should have 56 foundation stitches on each panel, giving you 112 total around the bodice. Try the bodice on a dress form if possible to check chest ease and head access.
Skirt Construction
Round 1
With white yarn, join at a side seam of the 112 stitch lower bodice edge. Chain 2, then work 2 dc in every foundation stitch around. Join. (224 dc)
Round 2
Chain 2. Repeat the following 16 times: dc in next 13 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch. Join. (240 dc)
Round 3: Establishing the Lace Pattern
Chain 2. Repeat the following 60 times: dc in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, V-st in next stitch, skip 1 stitch. Join to first dc.
Each repeat uses 4 stitches from the previous round. You’ll end up with 60 single dc columns, 60 V-sts, and 60 chain 1 spaces, totaling 180 dc.
Rounds 4 through 24
Chain 2. Repeat the following 60 times: dc in next single dc column, skip the first dc of the V-st, work a V-st in its chain 1 space, skip its second dc. Join to first dc.
Keep those 60 repeat units consistent every round. Mark your first column stitch to avoid accidentally counting a V-st leg as your starting point. Turn after each round.
Hem Foundation
Chain 1, then work 1 sc in every dc and 1 sc in every chain 1 space around. Join. (240 sc)
Your lace body should measure around 20 cm. The blocked lace gauge may differ from your solid swatch, so measure before adding the border.
Flutter Sleeves
Sleeve Foundation
Use rose pink and your 3.5 mm hook. On one armhole, find the shoulder seam. Measure 6 cm down the front edge and 6 cm down the back edge from the shoulder. Mark both points.
Join yarn at the front marker. Work 30 sc evenly across the 12 cm upper arc to the back marker, crossing over the shoulder seam. Do not work around the lower underarm area.
Flutter Rows
Turn.
Row 2: Chain 2, work 2 dc in each sc across. (60 dc) Turn.
Row 3: Chain 2. Repeat the following 30 times: dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch. (90 dc) Turn.
Row 4: Chain 1, sc in every stitch across. (90 sc) Fasten off.
Repeat on the other armhole, matching your marked arc and stitch counts exactly. You’ll have a softly ruffled cap sleeve on each side.
Lace Hem Border
Hem Round 1
With rose pink, join in any of the 240 hem foundation sc. Chain 1 and sc in that same stitch.
Repeat the following 24 times: skip next 4 foundation stitches, work 11 tr in next stitch, skip next 4 foundation stitches, sc in next stitch.
The last sc location is your starting sc. Instead of making a second sc there, join to the first sc.
You’ll have 24 fans of 11 tr each, plus 24 sc anchors between them.
Hem Round 2
Chain 1, sc in same anchor. For each fan: chain 1, then work dc in each of its 11 tr with chain 1 between each dc, chain 1, sc in the next anchor.
On the last fan, join to the first sc instead of making a duplicate anchor. Each fan now has 11 dc and 12 chain 1 spaces.
Hem Round 3
Chain 1. Work sc in each sc anchor, each dc, and each chain 1 space around. Join and fasten off. (576 sc)
Keep your tension relaxed here. When blocking, shape each fan into smooth rounded scallops without pulling the skirt waist wider.
Coiled Rose Appliqués
Small Rose Petal Strip
With rose pink and your 3 mm hook, chain 42.
Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across. (41 sc) Turn.
Row 2: Chain 1, sc in first stitch. Repeat the following 10 times: skip 1 stitch, 5 dc in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, sc in next stitch.
You’ll have 10 petals and 11 anchoring sc. Fasten off, leaving a 35 cm tail for sewing.
Shaping the Rose
Starting at one short end, roll the strip with the scalloped petals pointing upward. Keep the first two petals tight for the center, then overlap the remaining petals more loosely as you go. Stitch through every layer across the underside to secure. Aim for a 4 to 5 cm finished flower. Don’t leave it as a loose spiral.
Larger Waist Rose
For the bow embellishment, make a second strip with chain 58. Work 57 sc in Row 1 and 14 petals in Row 2 using the same repeat pattern. Roll and sew, aiming for 6 to 7 cm.
Color Notes
Use rose pink for the main roses. For a two color bouquet effect, make half in lavender and half in rose pink. If you want a pearl like accent in the centers, embroider three tight pale stitches across each center rather than adding loose beads, which aren’t safe for children’s wear.
Pointed Leaves
With sage green and your 3 mm hook, chain 9.
Working along one side of the chain: slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, then work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the last chain.
Continue along the opposite side of the same chain: hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in next, slip stitch in last. Fasten off with a sewing tail.
Embroider a straight vein down the center if you like.
Tiny Filler Flowers
With a contrast color and your 3 mm hook, make a magic ring. For a magic ring, make an adjustable loop around two fingers, insert your hook through it, and draw up the working yarn. Chain 1, then work over both strands of the loop.
Repeat 5 times into the ring: chain 2, 2 dc, chain 2, slip stitch.
Pull the tail to tighten the center, fasten off, and sew the center securely. Embroider a contrasting center using three short straight stitches.
Appliqué Quantities and Placement
Make the following:
Keep the dress back plain so it stays comfortable when the child is seated.
Lay your blocked dress flat. Mark the front center and both side seams. Arrange your motifs 3 to 5 cm above where the lace hem begins, distributing them evenly between the side seams.
Overlap only the leaf bases, not their tips. Baste everything in place first, then sew around all edges and through every layered center with small matching stitches. Take your time here to make sure everything is secure.
Large Bow Construction
Bow Rectangle
With rose pink and your 3.5 mm hook, chain 74.
Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook and across. (73 sc)
Rows 2 through 18: Chain 1, sc in each stitch. Turn. (73 sc)
Fasten off. Block the rectangle to about 36 x 7 cm. Fold the two short ends to meet at the center back with about 1 cm overlap and stitch together.
Center Wrap
Chain 9. Sc in second chain from hook and across. (8 sc) Work 8 rows total, turning each time.
Pinch the middle of your bow rectangle into three folds. Wrap the small strip around it and sew its ends together on the back. Stitch through the folded layers to secure.
Bow Tails
For each tail, chain 11. Sc in second chain from hook and across. (10 sc)
Work 34 rows total, or until each tail measures 15 cm long. On the last row, skip the first stitch and sc in the remaining 9 for a softly angled end. Fasten off. Turn the angled corner under if needed.
Attaching the Bow
Sew the tail tops behind the bow. Position the bow at the front waist and angle the tails downward and outward. Sew the bow center and both outer loops securely to the dress.
Stitch each tail along its entire length and at its lower end, keeping it flat against the skirt without stretching the lace. For child safety, every part of the bow must be firmly attached.
Neckline Edging
Using lavender or your chosen trim color, join at the back neck. Work 1 sc per horizontal stitch and approximately 2 sc per dc row end around the neck, excluding the vertical center back slit.
At inner corners, work sc2tog across the corner if needed to help it lie flat. Join.
Work one more round of sc around. Join and fasten off.
The exact stitch count depends on your blocked row gauge. Just keep both sides symmetrical.
Back Opening Bands
Along each vertical back slit edge, work 2 sc into each dc row end for Rows 15 through 23. (18 sc)
Turn. Work 2 more rows of 18 sc. Fasten off.
Lightly block both bands so they overlap by about 1 cm without pulling the back panel.
Closures
Sew three snaps through small soft backing patches at the following positions:
Align both halves of each snap before stitching. Cover any exposed backing edges with soft fabric so nothing scratches the child’s skin. Test that the opening allows easy dressing without straining the neckline.
Final Blocking and Finishing
Weave in all your yarn ends by threading them through several stitches, reversing direction, and securing. Trim close.
Wash according to your yarn label instructions. Gently press out water in a towel. Never wring.
Pin the bodice to 56 cm chest circumference. Ease the skirt outward without stretching the waist. Shape the lace scallops, sleeve ruffles, and all appliqués into their final positions. Dry completely on a flat surface.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water if compatible with all your materials. Support the wet garment fully and dry flat. Never hang while wet, as the weight will stretch the fabric.
Before each wear, check all snaps, seams, and appliqué attachments. Repair any loose parts before use.
Safety Reminder
The illustration may show decorative beads or ribbon. For a child worn garment, always substitute embroidered centers for beads, stitch sash and bow tails completely flat, and secure every single appliqué edge thoroughly.
Use this dress with a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress wherever the lace fabric is open. This design is occasion clothing and is not suitable for sleepwear.
Sample Review Checklist
Before considering this dress complete, measure and record:
Verify your stitch counts match these targets:
I hope you enjoy creating this beautiful Lavender Rose Bow Dress! It’s definitely a labor of love, but the finished result is absolutely worth every stitch. The combination of the lace skirt, flutter sleeves, and those gorgeous floral appliqués makes this dress a true heirloom piece.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I would absolutely love to see your finished dresses! If you make one, please share a photo with me on Instagram or Facebook. There’s nothing better than seeing these designs come to life in your hands.
If you loved this pattern, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you’re ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make this dress. I’d love to hear how it turned out for you!
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