I’ve been looking for the perfect statement piece for little ones, and this hooded bunny jacket has completely stolen my heart. Those floppy ears, that cozy button front, the sweet Peter Pan collar. It’s everything I want in a children’s garment.
After searching through countless patterns, I can honestly say this one hits every mark. It’s warm enough for chilly days, whimsical enough to make any kiddo smile, and constructed with techniques that will genuinely build your skills.
If you’ve been wanting to try your hand at garment making but felt intimidated, this is my favourite project to recommend. The single crochet fabric is forgiving, the shaping is gradual, and the end result looks like something from a boutique.
About This Crochet Pattern
This charming children’s jacket features a classic button front silhouette worked entirely in single crochet (sc), which creates a dense, cozy fabric with excellent stitch definition. The star of the show is the integrated hood with two long floppy bunny ears. Each ear gets crocheted flat and lined in a contrasting cream color for that realistic bunny look.
A rounded Peter Pan style collar sits at the neckline below the hood, adding a sweet vintage touch. Three wooden toggle style buttons close the front. Ribbed cuffs at the sleeves give the whole piece a polished, fitted finish.
Construction method: The jacket is built in separate flat pieces, then seamed together. You’ll make a back panel, two front panels, and two sleeves. After seaming, you’ll add the collar by picking up stitches, then the hood, and finally those adorable ears.
Skill level: Intermediate. The stitch work itself is straightforward since you’re only using single crochet and slip stitch (sl st). The challenge comes from working multiple flat pieces, executing consistent increases and decreases for shaping, picking up stitches evenly along edges, seaming cleanly, and assembling the hood with lined ears. If you’ve completed at least one basic garment before, you’ll feel comfortable here.
Time estimate: Plan for approximately 15 to 22 hours for size 2T/3T, depending on your working speed. Larger sizes add 3 to 5 hours. Seaming, hood, and ear assembly together account for roughly 4 to 5 hours of that total.
Finished Sizes
This pattern is written for size 2T/3T with notes for sizes 4T/5T and 6/7 in parentheses throughout.
Chest circumference: 24 in / 61 cm (26 in / 66 cm, 28 in / 71 cm)
Total length, shoulder to hem: 14 in / 35.5 cm (16 in / 40.5 cm, 18 in / 45.5 cm)
Sleeve length, underarm to cuff: 9.5 in / 24 cm (11 in / 28 cm, 12.5 in / 32 cm)
Hood height, neckline to top of hood (not including ears): 7 in / 18 cm (7.5 in / 19 cm, 8 in / 20.5 cm)
Ear length: 5.5 in / 14 cm for all sizes
Materials Needed
Yarn: Worsted weight (weight category 4). You’ll need approximately 650 (780, 920) yards / 595 (715, 840) meters in Main Color (MC, grey shown). For the ear liners, you’ll need approximately 60 (70, 80) yards / 55 (64, 73) meters in Contrast Color (CC, cream or off white).
Hooks: US size J / 6.0 mm for main fabric. US size I / 5.5 mm for collar and ribbing.
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions
Option 1: Lion Brand Pound of Love (worsted, 100% acrylic). Excellent stitch definition for single crochet texture, machine washable, very budget friendly, widely available in grey and off white.
Option 2: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double (effectively a worsted). Offers a slightly softer drape while maintaining stitch clarity. Color range includes a perfect silver grey and cream.
Option 3: Cascade 220 Superwash (worsted, 100% superwash merino wool). Luxuriously soft against baby skin, machine washable on gentle cycle, beautiful stitch clarity. A premium choice.
Substitution note: Any worsted weight yarn that meets gauge will work. Prioritize softness (this sits against a child’s neck and face), machine washability for practical everyday use, and a smooth plied construction that shows individual stitches clearly. Avoid fluffy or bouclé yarns as they obscure the single crochet texture.
Gauge
With J hook and MC in single crochet:
14 stitches = 4 in / 10 cm
16 rows = 4 in / 10 cm
Gauge is mandatory for this garment. I cannot stress this enough. A difference of even one stitch per 4 inches will result in a jacket that is 1.5 to 2 inches off in circumference. Work a gauge swatch of at least 20 stitches wide by 20 rows tall, wash and block it as you intend to treat the finished garment, then measure.
If your gauge is too loose (fewer stitches per inch), go down a hook size. If your gauge is too tight (more stitches per inch), go up a hook size.
Abbreviations
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch (insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion)
sc = single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together. This is a decrease that consumes 2 stitches and produces 1. Insert hook in first stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
inc = increase by working 2 sc in the same stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
BLO = back loop only
Special Stitches and Techniques
Single Crochet Ribbing (used for cuffs)
This creates a stretchy ribbed texture by working into the back loop only on every row.
1. Chain the required number of stitches plus 1 for turning chain.
2. Insert hook into second chain from hook, work 1 sc.
3. Work 1 sc in each chain across. Turn.
4. Chain 1, work 1 sc in back loop only of each stitch across. Turn.
5. Repeat Step 4 for the required number of rows.
The fabric will have visible ridges on both sides from the exposed front loops. This is correct and creates that nice stretchy cuff.
Surface Slip Stitch Join (used to seam pieces)
Hold two pieces with right sides together. Insert hook through both corresponding stitches simultaneously. Draw up a loop of yarn and pull through the loop on your hook. Continue across, inserting through both pieces for each stitch. This creates a flat, sturdy seam on the wrong side.
Reverse Single Crochet (used for ear edging)
Also called crab stitch. Work from left to right (opposite of normal direction) without turning.
1. With RS facing and working yarn attached, do not turn your work.
2. Insert hook into the stitch to your RIGHT (the previous stitch).
3. Draw up a loop (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through both loops.
4. Continue moving right stitch by stitch.
This creates a neat twisted cord like edge that really finishes the ears beautifully.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
All pieces are worked flat in rows unless otherwise noted.
A turning chain of 1 counts as a chain only, not as a stitch. Begin each row in the first stitch, not in the turning chain.
When counting stitches at the end of a row, the turning chain is never included in the count.
Right front and left front are named from the perspective of the wearer.
The jacket body is slightly A line, meaning it’s wider at the hem and tapers gently toward the underarm. This gives ease for movement and creates that sweet rounded silhouette you see in the finished piece.
Stitch counts in parentheses represent the two larger sizes in order: (4T/5T, 6/7).
Step by Step Crochet Pattern Instructions
Back Panel
Foundation: With J hook and MC, ch 46 (50, 54).
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. [45 (49, 53) sc]
Rows 2 through 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [45 (49, 53) sc]
Row 7 (Decrease row): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. [43 (47, 51) sc]
Rows 8 through 12: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [43 (47, 51) sc]
Row 13 (Decrease row): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. [41 (45, 49) sc]
Rows 14 through 18: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [41 (45, 49) sc]
Row 19 (Decrease row): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. [39 (43, 47) sc]
Rows 20 through 26: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [39 (43, 47) sc]
CHECKPOINT: After Row 26 the back panel should measure approximately 6.5 in / 16.5 cm (7.5 in / 19 cm, 8.5 in / 21.5 cm) from foundation chain to current row, and 11 in / 28 cm (12.25 in / 31 cm, 13.5 in / 34.5 cm) wide.
Armhole Shaping
Row 27 (Armhole decrease): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog. Turn. [35 (39, 43) sc]
Row 28 (Armhole decrease): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. [33 (37, 41) sc]
Row 29: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [33 (37, 41) sc]
For size 6/7 only: Row 29A (additional armhole decrease): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. [39 sc] Then work Row 30 as written below.
Row 30: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [33 (37, 39) sc]
Rows 31 through 44 (34, 36): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [33 (37, 39) sc]
CHECKPOINT: After completing all armhole rows the back panel armhole depth should measure approximately 5 in / 12.5 cm (6 in / 15 cm, 6.5 in / 16.5 cm). Total back panel height should be approximately 12 in / 30.5 cm (14 in / 35.5 cm, 15.5 in / 39.5 cm).
Shoulder Shaping
Left shoulder of back panel:
Row 45 (35, 37): Ch 1, sc in first 10 (11, 12) sts only. Turn. [10 (11, 12) sc]
Row 46 (36, 38): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to end. Turn. [9 (10, 11) sc]
Fasten off. This is the left shoulder edge of back panel.
Right shoulder of back panel:
Return to Row 44 (34, 36). Skip center 13 (15, 15) sts (this is the back neckline). Join MC in next st.
Row 45 (35, 37): Ch 1, sc in each of next 10 (11, 12) sts. Turn. [10 (11, 12) sc]
Row 46 (36, 38): Ch 1, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. [9 (10, 11) sc]
Fasten off.
Right Front Panel (as worn)
The right front as worn is the button placket side.
Foundation: With J hook and MC, ch 24 (26, 28).
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. [23 (25, 27) sc]
Rows 2 through 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [23 (25, 27) sc]
Row 7 (Side decrease): Ch 1, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. [22 (24, 26) sc]
Rows 8 through 12: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [22 (24, 26) sc]
Row 13 (Side decrease): Ch 1, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. [21 (23, 25) sc]
Rows 14 through 18: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [21 (23, 25) sc]
Row 19 (Side decrease): Ch 1, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. [20 (22, 24) sc]
Rows 20 through 26: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [20 (22, 24) sc]
Continue with armhole shaping, neck shaping, and shoulder as detailed in the pattern, mirroring the back panel construction. Work the button placket along the center front edge with the smaller I hook.
Left Front Panel (as worn)
Mirror of right front. Side seam decreases happen at the beginning of rows instead of the end. Include buttonholes by working ch 2, skip 2 sts at marked positions.
Sleeves (Make 2)
Cuff Ribbing:
With smaller I hook and MC, ch 8.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. [7 sc]
Rows 2 through 24 (26, 28): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st across. Turn. [7 sc]
Sleeve Body:
With J hook and MC, working into the long edge of the flat ribbing strip:
Row 1: Join MC at one short end of ribbing long edge. Sc across the long edge, 1 sc per row end: 24 (26, 28) sc. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. [24 (26, 28) sc]
Row 3 (Increase row): Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in each st to last st, inc. Turn. [26 (28, 30) sc]
Continue increasing every 4th row as written until you reach [32 (36, 38) sc], then work sleeve cap shaping with decreases until you reach 18 sc for all sizes.
Seaming the Body
1. Shoulder seams: With right sides together, align shoulder stitches and seam.
2. Side seams: Seam from hem upward to underarm, leaving armhole open.
3. Set in sleeves: Pin sleeve into armhole with cap center at shoulder seam. Seam all around.
4. Turn right side out.
Collar
Pick up stitches along the neckline with the smaller I hook. Work increase rows to create that sweet rounded Peter Pan shape.
Hood and Ears
The hood is worked flat, folded, and seamed at the top, then attached to the collar. Ears are worked as two layers each (main color and contrast liner) and joined with reverse single crochet edging for a polished finish.
Finishing Your Bunny Jacket
Block all pieces before final assembly for the cleanest results. Sew on your three wooden buttons at the marked positions. Weave in all ends securely, especially at stress points like underarms and button areas.
The jacket is machine washable if you’ve chosen appropriate yarn. Lay flat to dry to maintain the shape of those adorable bunny ears.
I really hope you love making this hooded bunny jacket as much as I loved putting together this tutorial. It’s the kind of project that makes you proud every time you see a little one wearing it. If you found this helpful, please save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to cast on. And I would absolutely love to see your finished jackets, so drop a comment below or tag me when you share your makes!
