This little dress has a name in my heart. I call it the Eleanor, after my grandmother who taught me my first chain stitch on her back porch one humid summer afternoon. She had a thing for scalloped edges and tiny wooden buttons, and I think she would have cried happy tears over this one.
I designed this pattern years ago for a friend’s baby shower, sketching it out in a spiral notebook during my lunch breaks. The original version was a bit of a mess, honestly. Too many increase rounds, sleeves that puffed a little too much. But I kept coming back to it, tweaking and rewriting until the shells lined up just right and the skirt flared into that perfect A-line shape.
Now it lives here, ready for you to make your own version. Maybe you will name yours too.
About This Baby Dress Pattern
This heirloom quality baby dress features a classic shell stitch pattern throughout, creating those beautiful fan shapes you see cascading down the skirt. The bodice is fitted with a center front opening secured by three wooden buttons. Short puffed sleeves cap the shoulders, and every single edge gets finished with a graceful scallop border for a cohesive, polished look.
The construction method is straightforward once you understand the flow. You will start at the yoke and work flat in rows for the bodice panels. After joining at the shoulders, you will pick up stitches at the waistline and work the skirt in rounds. The sleeves come last. You will pick up stitches around each armhole opening and work outward for just a few rounds before adding that final scallop trim.
This is an intermediate level project. You should be comfortable working both flat and in the round, reading stitch repeats, and picking up stitches around an opening. The shell stitch itself is not complicated once you get the rhythm going, but keeping everything aligned across rows takes some attention.
Finished Measurements
The pattern is written for three sizes to fit babies from newborn through their first year.
Newborn (0 to 3 months): Chest circumference 14 inches (35.5 cm), length from shoulder to hem 12 inches (30.5 cm)
Size 3 to 6 months: Chest circumference 16 inches (40.5 cm), length from shoulder to hem 13.5 inches (34 cm)
Size 6 to 12 months: Chest circumference 18 inches (45.5 cm), length from shoulder to hem 15 inches (38 cm)
All instructions are written for the 3 to 6 month size. Changes for Newborn and 6 to 12 months appear in parentheses as (Newborn / 6 to 12 months). When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.
Materials Needed
Yarn: Approximately 350 (300 / 420) yards or 320 (275 / 385) meters of DK weight yarn (CYCA 3). I recommend 100 percent mercerized cotton or a cotton blend for the best stitch definition and gentle drape.
Hook: US size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK (100 percent cotton, 276 yards per 100 g skein): Excellent stitch definition with a slight sheen. 2 skeins in Champagne White.
Drops Safran (100 percent combed Egyptian cotton, 175 yards per 50 g skein): Tightly spun, holds shell shapes crisp, blocks beautifully. 2 skeins in color 17 Off White.
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (100 percent mercerized cotton, 186 yards per 100 g skein): Widely available and machine washable. 2 skeins in Ecru.
Avoid fuzzy or halo yarns like mohair blends. They will obscure the pretty shell texture you are working so hard to create.
Gauge
18 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in half double crochet worked flat, blocked
1 shell repeat (5 dc) + 1 ch-1 space = approximately 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) wide
3 rows of shell stitch = approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) tall
Gauge matters a lot for a fitted garment like this. Please make a swatch at least 5 inches square, block it, and measure before you begin. Your future self will thank you.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me walk you through every abbreviation you will encounter. If you are newer to reading patterns, bookmark this section.
ch = chain. Wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop on hook. This is your foundation.
sl st = slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. Used for joining and moving across stitches invisibly.
sc = single crochet. Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops.
hdc = half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
dc = double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops. This is the main stitch of the dress.
sk = skip. Pass over that stitch without working into it.
sp = space. The gap created by chains in a previous row.
st(s) = stitch or stitches
rep = repeat
pm = place marker
beg = beginning
RS = right side. The pretty public-facing side.
WS = wrong side. The back or inside.
yo = yarn over. Wrap yarn around your hook.
Special Stitches
These special stitch combinations are the building blocks of the entire dress. Master these and the rest flows naturally.
Shell Stitch
Work 5 double crochet (dc) stitches all into the same stitch or space. This creates a fan shape that forms one complete shell unit. Think of it as five tall stitches blooming out from a single point.
Half Shell
Work 3 dc all into the same stitch or space. You will use this at row beginnings and endings to create neat straight edges while keeping the shell pattern aligned.
Scallop Edging
This creates the decorative wave border visible on every edge of the dress.
Step 1: Slip stitch into the first stitch.
Step 2: Skip 2 stitches.
Step 3: Work 5 dc into the next stitch.
Step 4: Skip 2 stitches.
Step 5: Slip stitch into the next stitch.
Repeat Steps 2 through 5 across or around.
Shell Row Setup (WS)
Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in first st (half-shell made), sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2, shell in next st, sk 2, sc in next st. Repeat from sk 2 to end, finishing with sk 2, 3 dc in last st (half-shell made). Turn.
Shell Row (RS)
Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc in first dc (top of half-shell), sk 2, shell in next sc, sk 2, sc in center dc of next shell, sk 2, shell in next sc. Repeat across. Turn.
Alternating Shell Row (WS)
Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first sc (half-shell), sk 2, sc in center of next shell, sk 2, shell in next sc. Repeat across, ending with 3 dc in last sc (half-shell). Turn.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Read through these notes before starting. They will save you confusion later.
1. The bodice is worked flat as one piece with armhole spaces, then joined at the shoulders. The front opening runs along the center front vertical edge for button placement.
2. Ch 3 at the beginning of a dc row counts as the first dc throughout. Ch 1 at the beginning of an sc row does not count as a stitch.
3. Buttons are sewn to the left front. Button loops are created on the right front using the sc and ch-3 method.
4. The skirt is worked in rounds with the right side always facing. Do not turn at the end of skirt rounds.
5. The shell repeat requires specific stitch counts. For flat rows you need a multiple of 6 plus 3 stitches. For working in the round you need a multiple of 6 stitches.
6. Block aggressively after completion. Cotton benefits enormously from wet blocking, and the shells will only open to their full beauty after blocking.
Step by Step Instructions
Yoke Back Panel
The back is worked as one flat piece from the neckline down to the underarm.
Foundation chain: Ch 51 (45 / 57).
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. [50 (44 / 56) sc]
Row 2 (RS, setup row): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first sc (half-shell), sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, [sk 2 sc, shell in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc] 7 (6 / 8) times, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in last sc (half-shell). Turn.
[8 (7 / 9) shells + 2 half-shells]
Row 3 (WS): Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc in first dc (top of half-shell), [sk 2 dc, shell in next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in center dc of next shell] 7 (6 / 8) times, sk 2 dc, shell in next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in top of ch-3. Turn.
[8 (7 / 9) shells; 9 (8 / 10) sc]
Row 4 (RS): Ch 3, 2 dc in first sc (half-shell), [sk 2 dc, sc in center dc of shell, sk 2 dc, shell in next sc] 7 (6 / 8) times, sk 2 dc, sc in center dc of last shell, sk 2 dc, 3 dc in last sc. Turn.
[7 (6 / 8) shells + 2 half-shells]
Rows 5 through 10 (11 / 12): Continue alternating Rows 3 and 4 until back panel measures 3.5 (3 / 4) inches or 9 (7.5 / 10) cm from foundation, ending after a WS row.
Fasten off and mark each outer edge stitch with a stitch marker for armhole reference.
Checkpoint: The back yoke panel should measure approximately 11 (9.5 / 12.5) inches or 28 (24 / 32) cm wide and 3.5 (3 / 4) inches or 9 (7.5 / 10) cm tall before blocking.
Left Front Bodice Panel
Foundation chain: Ch 27 (25 / 29).
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. [26 (24 / 28) sc]
Row 2 (RS, setup): Ch 3, 2 dc in first sc (half-shell), sk 2, sc in next sc, [sk 2, shell in next sc, sk 2, sc in next sc] 3 (2 / 3) times, sk 2, shell in next sc, sk 2, 3 dc in last sc (half-shell). Turn.
[4 (3 / 4) shells + 2 half-shells]
Continue in shell pattern as established, mirroring Rows 3 and 4 of back, for the same number of rows as the back. End after a WS row. Fasten off and mark outer armhole edge.
Right Front Bodice Panel
Work exactly as left front panel. Fasten off and mark outer armhole edge.
Joining Yoke at Shoulders
Lay pieces flat with back panel in center, left front to the left, right front to the right.
Right shoulder seam: With right sides together, align the right edge of the right front panel to the right edge of the back panel. Using a yarn needle and mattress stitch or slip stitch join with hook, seam the top 3 (2.5 / 3.5) inches or 7.5 (6.5 / 9) cm of each edge together. This leaves an armhole gap at the lower portion of each side edge.
Left shoulder seam: Repeat for left shoulder, joining left front to back.
Neckline Edging
With RS facing, join yarn at right front inner edge. Ch 1, sc evenly around neckline opening, placing 1 sc per stitch or row end as appropriate. Work 3 sc into each shoulder corner. Join with sl st to first sc. Do not turn.
Scallop round: Sl st into first sc, [sk 2 sc, 5 dc into next sc, sk 2 sc, sl st into next sc] around. Fasten off.
Button Band and Buttonhole Band
Left front band (button side): With RS facing, join yarn at lower left edge of left front panel. Ch 1, work sc evenly up the center front vertical edge to the neckline. Turn. Work 1 more row sc. Fasten off.
Right front band (buttonhole side): With RS facing, join yarn at neckline edge of right front panel. Ch 1, work sc evenly down the center front vertical edge to the lower right edge. Turn.
Buttonhole row: Ch 1, sc in first 3 sc, [ch 3, sk 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc] twice, ch 3, sk 3 sc, sc in last 3 sc. Turn.
Final band row: Ch 1, sc in each sc and 3 sc into each ch-3 sp across. Fasten off.
Sew 3 wooden buttons to left front band aligned with buttonholes.
Joining Skirt
With RS facing, join yarn at the right side seam. Ch 1, work sc evenly across the entire lower edge of bodice, working across right front, across back, across left front, joining into a round with sl st to first sc.
Target stitch counts:
Adjust your pickup count to reach the target. The multiple of 6 is mandatory for the shell pattern. Place marker at join point.
Skirt
The skirt is worked in rounds with RS always facing.
Round 1 (setup): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in same sc as join (shell begun), [sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, sk 2 sc, shell in next sc] around, ending sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, sk 2 sc, join with sl st to top of ch-3. [12 (14 / 16) shells; 12 (14 / 16) sc]
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, [sk 2 dc, shell in next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in center dc of next shell] around, join with sl st to first sc. [12 (14 / 16) shells; 12 (14 / 16) sc]
Round 3: Ch 3, 4 dc in same sc (shell), [sk 2 dc, sc in center dc of shell, sk 2 dc, shell in next sc] around, ending sk 2 dc, sc in center of last shell, sk 2 dc, join to top of ch-3. [12 (14 / 16) shells]
Rounds 4 and 5: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 without increase.
Increase Round A (Round 6): Ch 3, 4 dc in first sc (shell made), sc in center of next shell, [shell in next sc, sc in center of next shell] 3 (3 / 4) times, shell in next sc, sc in center of next shell, shell in SAME sc just used (increase point 1), [shell in next sc, sc in center of next shell] 4 (4 / 4) times, shell in next sc, sc in center of next shell, shell in SAME sc (increase point 2), continue to last sc position, shell in last sc, sc in center of last shell, shell in SAME last sc (increase point 3), join with sl st to top of ch-3.
After this round: 15 (17 / 19) shells. [90 (102 / 114) sts]
Work 4 rounds even in shell pattern.
Increase Round B (Round 11): Work as Increase Round A, adding 3 increase points evenly spaced.
After this round: 18 (20 / 22) shells. [108 (120 / 132) sts]
Work 4 rounds even.
Increase Round C (Round 16): Add 3 more increase points.
After this round: 21 (23 / 25) shells. [126 (138 / 150) sts]
Work 5 rounds even.
The skirt should measure approximately 7.5 (8.5 / 9.5) inches or 19 (21.5 / 24) cm from the waistline.
Skirt Hem Scallop
Setup round: Ch 1, sc in each dc and each sc around the hem edge, working 5 sc across each shell (1 in each dc) and 1 sc in each sc between shells. Join with sl st to first sc. [126 (138 / 150) sc]
Scallop round: Sl st in first sc, [sk 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2 sc, sl st in next sc] around. Join with sl st. Fasten off. [21 (23 / 25) scallops]
Sleeves (Make 2)
With RS facing, join yarn at the bottom of the armhole opening at the side seam.
Pickup round: Ch 1, work sc evenly around the armhole opening. Target stitch count: 36 (30 / 42) sc. Join with sl st to first sc. [36 (30 / 42) sc]
Sleeve Round 1: Ch 3, 4 dc in same sc (shell), [sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, sk 2 sc, shell in next sc] around, ending sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, sk 2 sc, join. [6 (5 / 7) shells; 6 (5 / 7) sc]
Sleeve Round 2: Ch 1, sc in join, [sk 2, shell in next sc, sk 2, sc in center of shell] around, join. [6 (5 / 7) shells; 6 (5 / 7) sc]
Sleeve Round 3: Ch 3, 4 dc in first sc, [sk 2, sc in center of shell, sk 2, shell in next sc] around, ending sc in center of last shell, sk 2, join. [6 (5 / 7) shells]
Rounds 4 and 5: Continue alternating Rounds 2 and 3.
Sleeve scallop edging:
Setup round: Ch 1, sc in each dc and each sc around sleeve lower edge. [36 (30 / 42) sc]
Scallop round: Sl st in first sc, [sk 2, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2, sl st in next sc] around. [6 (5 / 7) scallops] Fasten off.
Finishing Your Baby Dress
Weave in all ends securely using your yarn needle. Go in at least 2 directions through the yarn to prevent unraveling. Trim ends close.
Sew three wooden buttons to the left front button band, aligning each button directly opposite the corresponding buttonhole. Position buttons approximately 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) from the band edge with the top button about 0.5 inch below the neckline scallop.
Blocking Instructions
Wet blocking is strongly recommended and will transform your finished dress. Submerge the dress in cool water and allow to soak for 20 minutes. Do not wring. Gently press out excess water by rolling in a clean towel.
Lay flat on a blocking mat. Pin the scalloped hem out so each scallop point is stretched to its full depth. Pin the sleeve scallops similarly. Open the shell motifs across the skirt with your fingers. Allow to dry completely, which typically takes 12 to 24 hours, before unpinning.
I promise you the dress will look dramatically better after blocking. The shells open to twice their pre-blocked depth. Trust the process.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with a gentle delicate wash. Do not wring or twist. Reshape and lay flat to dry. Cotton can be machine washed on a delicate cycle in a mesh laundry bag if needed. Do not tumble dry. Cool iron on the reverse side if needed. Store folded flat.
Time Estimate
Expect to spend approximately 12 to 18 hours on this project depending on your experience level. Break it into sessions if you need to. The bodice panels go quickly, and the repetitive skirt rounds are perfect for working while watching something.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I truly hope you love making it as much as I loved designing it. If you finish your own Eleanor dress, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo on Facebook so I can cheer you on.
If this pattern is calling your name but you are not quite ready to start today, go ahead and pin it to your crochet board on Pinterest so you can find it later. And if you do make one, please drop a comment below. I read every single one and it makes my whole day to hear about your creations.
