Lace crochet looks intimidating, but I promise you this heart table runner is more approachable than it appears. If you have ever scrolled past a filet crochet project thinking "that is way too advanced for me," I want you to pause right here.
Get the Ad-Free PDF Pattern
You can find the free pattern below, or you can purchase the ad-free printable PDF from my shop.
Get the Printable PDF →
This pattern breaks down into simple, repeatable steps. You are not working complicated charts or memorizing dozens of specialty stitches. You are building four identical heart motifs using basic double crochet (dc) and chain (ch) stitches, then surrounding each one with a pretty scalloped border. The filet lace effect comes from strategically placed chain spaces, not magic.
Whether you consider yourself an intermediate crocheter ready to level up or a confident beginner looking for a challenge, this pattern meets you where you are. I will walk you through every row, every stitch count, and every potential trouble spot so you can create a stunning burgundy and white table runner that looks like it belongs in a magazine.
About This Burgundy Heart Lace Table Runner
This romantic table runner features four individually crocheted filet hearts in rich burgundy, each surrounded by delicate white chain lace and scalloped edging. The hearts are joined with a modest overlap, creating a continuous runner that works beautifully as a centerpiece for Valentine’s Day, anniversaries, or year-round romantic decor.
The construction method uses shaped rows to create reproducible heart outlines. You will work from the lower point of each heart upward toward the cleft, increasing steadily to form the classic heart silhouette before shaping the two rounded lobes at the top.
Skill Level: Intermediate
Finished Dimensions: Each bordered heart measures approximately 30 to 35 cm wide and 31 to 34 cm tall. The completed runner spans roughly 110 to 120 cm long after accounting for 3 to 5 cm overlaps at each join.
Materials You Will Need
Gathering your supplies before you begin makes the whole process smoother. Here is everything you need to complete this table runner:
Yarn:
Hook: 3 mm crochet hook, or size needed to achieve gauge
Notions:
Yarn Note: Choose a mercerized cotton with distinct stitch definition. The crisp texture of mercerized cotton shows off lace stitches beautifully and holds its shape after blocking. Consistent yarn thickness across all your skeins is essential for matching motif sizes.
Gauge
Before committing to all four hearts, make a gauge swatch. Your gauge before edging should measure 20 dc x 11 rows = 10 cm (4 inches).
The heart body reaches a maximum width of 49 double crochet positions, which translates to approximately 24.5 cm at the widest point. If your gauge is off, adjust your hook size accordingly. A tighter gauge means you need a larger hook. A looser gauge means you need a smaller hook.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me break down every stitch and term used in this pattern:
Important: Turning chains do NOT count as a stitch unless a step explicitly says they do.
Heart Body Instructions (Make Four)
You will create four identical hearts. Work from the lower point upward toward the cleft. Chain 2 and turn before each new row. Remember, the ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch.
Work dc into stitches, and work 1 dc into each ch-1 space where a solid row is specified. The row count includes both dc and ch-1 positions.
Row 1 (Color A)
Ch 4, work 3 dc in fourth ch from hook. The unused chains serve as foundation only, not a fourth stitch.
Stitch count: 3 dc. Turn.
Row 2
Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc in middle st, 2 dc in last st.
Stitch count: 5 dc. Turn.
Rows 3 through 24: Shaping the Heart
Each row increases by 2 stitches total. Work 2 dc in the first stitch, work across the middle according to the lace rule below, then work 2 dc in the last stitch.
Formula: Row n has 2n+1 positions.
Check your counts: Row 6 = 13 positions, Row 12 = 25 positions, Row 18 = 37 positions, Row 24 = 49 positions.
The Lace Rule
This is what creates that beautiful openwork effect in your heart:
On rows divisible by 3 (that is rows 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, and 24), after working the first increase, work (ch 1, skip next position, dc in next position) as many times as possible before reaching the last 2 old positions. Then ch 1, skip the penultimate position, and work 2 dc in the last position.
All rows that are NOT divisible by 3 are solid dc rows.
Example for Row 3: 2 dc in first st, ch 1, skip 1, dc, ch 1, skip 1, 2 dc in last st = 7 positions total.
Rows 25 through 28: Even Rows
Work even over 49 positions with no increases.
Rows 25, 26, and 28: Dc in every position. (49 sts)
Row 27: Dc in first position, then work (ch 1, skip 1, dc in next) 24 times = 25 dc + 24 ch-1 spaces.
Do not increase on these rows. Fasten off at end of Row 28.
Shaping the Two Lobes
Now you will create the distinctive top curves of the heart by working each lobe separately.
Mark the Split
With RS facing, count across Row 28. Mark position 25 for the central cleft. Leave this position unworked. The left lobe uses positions 1 through 24. The right lobe uses positions 26 through 49.
Work each lobe separately. Remember, ch 2 never counts as a stitch.
Lobe Row 1
Join Color A at the outside edge for the first lobe and work dc in 24 positions. For the second lobe, join at the cleft side and work 24 positions so the same row instructions mirror naturally.
Stitch count: 24 sts. Turn.
Lobe Row 2
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 20 sts, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 22 sts. Turn.
Lobe Row 3
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 18 sts, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 20 sts. Turn.
Lobe Row 4
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 16 sts, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 18 sts. Turn.
Lobe Row 5
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 14 sts, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 16 sts. Turn.
Lobe Row 6
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 12 sts, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 14 sts. Turn.
Lobe Row 7
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 10 sts, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 12 sts. Fasten off.
Work the second lobe exactly the same way. You should now have a symmetric heart with a 7-row cleft and two softly sloping tops.
Smoothing the Body Edge (Color A)
Join Color A at the lower point and sc evenly around the entire body. Here are your guidelines:
If your edging ruffles, reduce to 1 sc in selected row-ends. This is an eased edging, not a fixed-count round, so adjust as needed for a flat result.
Mark the point and cleft with stitch markers. Join and fasten off.
Open Lace and Scallop Border
This is where the white border transforms your burgundy hearts into elegant lace motifs.
Round 1: Color B Outline
Join Color B at the point. Sc in each edging stitch around. Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the middle point stitch. At the cleft, work sc2tog over the 2 central stitches.
Join to first sc. Lay the heart flat and record your edging count. You will want to match this count for the remaining hearts. A flat heart is more important than forcing a specific perimeter count.
Round 2: Mesh
Sl st into point space. Ch 1, work (sc, ch 5, sc) in the point.
Work around the heart: ch 5, skip 2 sts, sc in next st. Repeat this pattern around.
At the cleft, use ch 3 in place of ch 5 to draw it inward.
Adjust the final skip to 1 or 3 stitches if needed to make the round work out evenly. Join to first sc. Mark the point loop.
Round 3: Mesh
Sl st into first ch-5 loop. Ch 1, sc into loop.
Work around: ch 5, sc in next loop. Repeat around.
At the point, work (sc, ch 5, sc) in the marked point loop to add one extra loop. At the cleft, use ch 3 again.
Ch 5 and join to first sc. Lay flat before continuing to the next round.
Round 4: Fans
Sl st into first loop. In each loop around, work (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc).
In the cleft loop only, work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) instead to avoid crowding.
Join and fasten off. Each normal fan contains 9 stitches. The cleft fan contains 5 stitches.
Round 5: Fine Color A Edge
Join Color A anywhere along the scalloped edge. Sl st loosely in each fan stitch, working ch 1 between neighboring fans.
Join invisibly, fasten off, and weave in all ends.
Troubleshooting Tip: If your outer edge contracts or pulls in, use a larger hook for this round only.
Color Consistency
Keep all four heart centers in burgundy (Color A) and all four lace surrounds in white (Color B), with the same fine burgundy scallop outline on each. Consistent yarn thickness is essential for matching motif sizes across all four hearts.
Blocking Each Heart
Proper blocking makes a huge difference in the finished look of lace crochet.
1. Soak each completed heart briefly according to your yarn label instructions
2. Press gently in towels to remove excess water
3. Pin each piece to identical dimensions on your blocking mat
4. Shape the two lobes evenly
5. Gently open each lace loop with your fingers
6. Allow to dry completely before joining
Important: Do not stretch one heart to compensate for a different gauge. All four should match naturally.
Arranging and Joining the Four Motifs
Lay all four hearts facing the same direction with right sides up.
Place the point of heart 2 over the cleft of heart 1, overlapping about 3 to 5 cm. Repeat this arrangement for hearts 3 and 4.
Choose an overlap amount that hides the join while keeping both lobes of each heart visible. The total runner length equals 4 times the heart height minus 3 times the overlap.
Sewing the Joins
Using matching thread or split cotton yarn, make small whipstitches only where the two lace borders touch. Secure an area about 6 to 8 cm wide at each overlap.
Do not sew a hard straight seam through the centers. Keep joins flat with no dangling loops underneath. Lift gently to confirm all sections remain securely connected.
Care Instructions
Hand wash your finished runner in cool water if the yarn label allows. Avoid wringing, which can distort the lace.
Lay flat to dry and reshape all scallops while damp. Use colorfast yarn to prevent the darker burgundy center from bleeding into the pale white border.
When displaying your runner, place a protective layer beneath hot serving dishes to preserve your beautiful work.
Final Sample Review
Before considering your project complete, check these points:
Troubleshooting: Curling along the edges means the border needs more ease. Waves or ruffles mean you have too many edge stitches. Make adjustments as needed.
Record your finished dimensions and actual yarn consumption from your completed sample for future reference.
Tips for Success
Take your time with gauge. I know swatching feels tedious, but with four identical motifs to create, getting your gauge right from the start saves frustration later.
Count religiously. The stitch counts at each checkpoint (rows 6, 12, 18, 24) help you catch mistakes early. It is much easier to fix one row than to frog half a heart.
Block as you go. Consider blocking each heart before adding the lace border. This helps you see the true shape and catch any sizing inconsistencies between motifs.
Embrace the eased edging. The smoothing round around the heart body is flexible by design. Your goal is a flat, unpuckered edge, not a specific stitch count.
I hope this pattern inspires you to try something a little outside your comfort zone. This burgundy heart lace table runner makes a gorgeous gift for weddings, anniversaries, or anyone who appreciates handmade beauty. The combination of filet lace technique and scalloped borders creates a truly impressive finished piece.
If you make this pattern, I would absolutely love to see your finished runner. Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start, and please leave a comment below to share your progress or ask any questions. Happy crocheting!
Want a Quick & Easy Printable Version?
Get a clean, beautifully formatted PDF of this pattern — easy to follow step by step, ready to print or save on any device. No scrolling, no distractions, just the pattern.
Get the Printable PDF →