THIS PATTERN IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPRESSIVE BABY PROJECTS I HAVE EVER MADE. Seriously. The finished piece looks like something from a professional newborn photography studio, but it works up in about 10 to 14 hours total. You get a full set here: a star-shaped blanket backing, a wrap-front cocoon swaddle, and the sweetest little pixie bonnet.
If you need a showstopper baby shower gift, this is it. New parents will absolutely lose their minds when you hand them this golden and peach starfish cocoon. It photographs beautifully, keeps baby cozy, and works as both a functional swaddle and an adorable photo prop.
The construction is easier than it looks, I promise. You are working separate pieces and joining them together, so there is nothing too tricky happening at any point. Let me walk you through every single step.
Why This Starfish Baby Cocoon Pattern Works So Well
The magic of this design is in the color placement. You use a warm golden amber yarn for the outer star points and a soft peach for the inner cocoon body. When baby is nestled inside, they become the center of a starfish. The visual effect is stunning.
The star base is worked in joined rounds, building five shaped arms outward from a central circle. The cocoon swaddle body uses simple flat rows with some diagonal shaping for that wrap-front look you see in the photos. Two wooden buttons fasten the front closed. The pixie bonnet is a separate piece worked from the back point forward, creating that adorable pointed elf hat shape.
Everything is primarily single crochet (sc), which means you get a dense, cozy fabric perfect for newborn skin. No fancy stitches required.
Skill Level
This pattern is rated intermediate. You should be comfortable with working in joined rounds, shaping with increases and decreases, working flat rows, and joining pieces with seams. None of the individual techniques are difficult. The challenge is keeping track of stitch counts across the five star points and following the wrap panel shaping carefully.
If you have made a basic amigurumi or a shaped garment before, you can absolutely handle this.
Finished Measurements
Star base: approximately 24 inches / 61 cm point to point across the full width
Cocoon swaddle body: approximately 9 inches / 23 cm wide at the widest point, 14 inches / 35.5 cm long from bottom to shoulder
Pixie bonnet: approximately 13 inches / 33 cm head circumference, fits newborn to 1 month
Size customization tips are included at the end of this pattern if you need to adjust for older babies.
Materials You Will Need
Yarn Color A (Golden Amber): approximately 400 yards / 366 m of worsted weight yarn, 100% cotton or cotton-acrylic blend
Yarn Color B (Soft Peach): approximately 500 yards / 457 m of the same yarn base in a soft peach or blush tone
Hook: US size J / 6 mm crochet hook
Notions: tapestry needle for weaving ends, two wooden shank buttons approximately 3/4 inch / 19 mm diameter, 6 stitch markers, scissors
Optional: blocking mats and pins
Yarn Suggestions
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Goldenrod (Color A) and Blush (Color B) works beautifully. It is worsted weight, 100% mercerized cotton, 186 yards / 170 m per 3.5 oz / 100 g skein. You will need 3 skeins of Color A and 3 skeins of Color B. This yarn has excellent stitch definition, is machine washable, and feels soft against newborn skin.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double throughout is another great option if you want access to more color choices. You will need 4 skeins of each color at 137 yards / 125 m per skein.
Choose yarn that is soft, non-scratchy, and machine washable. Avoid regular wool unless it is superwash treated. This item will need frequent laundering.
Gauge
16 sc x 18 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm worked in single crochet, blocked flat
To make a gauge swatch: Chain 22. Work single crochet across in rows for 22 rows. Block lightly. Measure the center 4 inches / 10 cm. Adjust your hook size up if your gauge is too tight or down if it is too loose. Gauge is critical on the cocoon swaddle body for correct sizing.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
beg: beginning
ch: chain, wrap yarn over hook and pull through the loop on your hook
ch-sp: chain space, the gap created by a chain in a previous row
dc: double crochet, yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops
hdc: half double crochet, yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops
inc: increase, work 2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch
MC: magic circle, an adjustable starting ring that can be pulled tight
pm: place marker
rem: remaining
rep: repeat
rnd(s): round(s)
RS: right side, the side that faces outward when worn
sc: single crochet, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook
sc2tog: single crochet two together, a decrease stitch. Insert hook into next stitch and pull up a loop. Insert hook into the following stitch and pull up a loop. Yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook. You have turned 2 stitches into 1.
sk: skip
sl st: slip stitch, insert hook, pull up loop, pull that loop directly through the loop already on your hook
sp: space
st(s): stitch(es)
WS: wrong side, the side that faces inward when worn
yo: yarn over, wrap yarn around hook from back to front
Special Techniques
Star Point Increase (spi): Work 3 single crochet stitches into the same stitch. This creates the outward-pointing tip shape at each star arm.
Invisible Join: After the final slip stitch join of a round, cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle. Insert needle under both loops of the first single crochet of the round. Pull through. Insert needle back down through the back loop only of the last slip stitch join. Pull snug. This creates a seamless-looking round end.
Pattern Instructions
Section 1: Star Base
The star base uses both Color A and Color B. Color B fills the central pentagon core and Color A extends out through each of the five arms. Work in joined rounds with the right side always facing.
Part 1A: Central Pentagon Core (Color B)
Rnd 1: Using Color B, make a magic circle. Ch 1 (does not count as st). Work 10 sc into the MC. Pull ring closed. Sl st to first sc to join. (10 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc to join. (20 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1. (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep around 10 times. Sl st to join. (30 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1. (Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep around 10 times. Sl st to join. (40 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1. (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep around 10 times. Sl st to join. (50 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1. (Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep around 10 times. Sl st to join. (60 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1. (Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep around 10 times. Sl st to join. (70 sc)
Rnd 8: Ch 1. (Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep around 10 times. Sl st to join. (80 sc)
Rnd 9: Ch 1. (Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep around 10 times. Sl st to join. (90 sc)
Rnd 10: Ch 1. (Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep around 10 times. Sl st to join. (100 sc)
Fasten off Color B. Leave a 6 inch tail. The circle should measure approximately 7 inches / 18 cm in diameter.
Checkpoint: Your Color B circle should be flat, smooth, and approximately 7 inches across. If it cups upward, your gauge is too tight. If it ruffles and does not lie flat, your gauge is too loose.
Part 1B: Star Arm Construction
Each star arm is built outward from 20 consecutive stitches of the Color B center circle. The 100-stitch circle divides evenly into 5 sections of 20 stitches each.
Place a stitch marker at stitch 1, stitch 21, stitch 41, stitch 61, and stitch 81.
Arm Construction (work the same for all 5 arms):
Join Color A with a sl st at the first marked stitch of any section. The arm is worked back and forth in turned rows. Chain 1, turn at end of each row. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
Row 1 (RS): Sc across the next 20 sts of the circle edge. Turn. (20 sc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (18 sc)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (14 sc)
Row 5 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (12 sc)
Row 6 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (10 sc)
Row 7 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (8 sc)
Row 8 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (6 sc)
Row 9 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (4 sc)
Row 10 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc2tog. Turn. (2 sc)
Row 11 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog. (1 sc)
Fasten off Color A leaving a 12 inch tail for seaming.
Repeat this arm construction for all 5 arms.
Checkpoint: Each arm should be approximately 4 inches / 10 cm long from base to tip. The full star should measure approximately 24 inches / 61 cm from tip to tip across opposite arms.
Joining Arms
Hold two adjacent arm side edges together. Using a tapestry needle and whip stitch, join from the outer tip of the arm gap down toward the center circle. Close the open V-shaped gaps between all arms so the star shape is defined. Weave in ends.
Star Base Edging (Optional But Recommended)
With RS facing, join Color A at any tip. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire outer perimeter of the star, working sc2tog at the inner valleys between arms and 3 sc at each outer tip stitch to keep the points sharp. Sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off. Weave ends.
Section 2: Cocoon Swaddle Body
The cocoon swaddle is worked primarily in Color B (Soft Peach).
Part 2A: Main Cocoon Body (Back Panel)
Ch 37.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (36 sc)
Rows 2 through 20: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (36 sc each row)
Row 21: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (34 sc)
Row 22: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (34 sc)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (32 sc)
Row 24: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (32 sc)
Row 25: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (30 sc)
Row 26: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (30 sc)
Row 27: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (28 sc)
Row 28: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (28 sc)
Row 29: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (26 sc)
Row 30: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (26 sc)
Row 31: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (24 sc)
Row 32: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (24 sc)
Row 33: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (22 sc)
Row 34: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (22 sc)
Row 35: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (20 sc)
Rows 36 through 38: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (20 sc each row)
Do not fasten off.
Checkpoint: After Row 38, your cocoon back panel should measure approximately 9 inches / 23 cm wide at the starting edge and taper to 5 inches / 12.5 cm wide at Row 38. Total length should be approximately 8.5 inches / 21.5 cm.
Part 2B: Right Front Wrap Panel
Row 39 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc across first 20 sts. Turn. (20 sc)
Leave remaining stitches unworked. You are now working only the right half.
Rows 40 through 42: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (20 sc each row)
Row 43: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across. Turn. (19 sc)
Row 44: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (19 sc)
Row 45: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across. Turn. (18 sc)
Row 46: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (18 sc)
Row 47: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across. Turn. (17 sc)
Row 48: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (17 sc)
Row 49: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 50: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 51: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across. Turn. (15 sc)
Row 52: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (15 sc)
Row 53: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc across. Turn. (14 sc)
Row 54: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (14 sc)
Row 55 (Buttonhole Row): Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 4 sts, ch 2, sk 2, sc in next 4 sts, ch 2, sk 2, sc in last 2 sts. Turn. (10 sc + 2 ch-2 spaces = 14 st equivalents)
Row 56: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp across. Turn. (14 sc)
Rows 57 through 60: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (14 sc each row)
Fasten off Color B.
Part 2C: Left Front Wrap Panel
Rejoin Color B at Row 39 at the beginning of the left half section with RS facing.
Row 39 (RS): Ch 1. Sc across remaining 20 sts to end. Turn. (20 sc)
Rows 40 through 42: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (20 sc each row)
Row 43: Ch 1, turn. Sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (19 sc)
Row 44: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (19 sc)
Row 45: Ch 1, turn. Sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (18 sc)
Row 46: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (18 sc)
Row 47: Ch 1, turn. Sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (17 sc)
Row 48: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (17 sc)
Row 49: Ch 1, turn. Sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 50: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 51: Ch 1, turn. Sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (15 sc)
Row 52: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (15 sc)
Row 53: Ch 1, turn. Sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (14 sc)
Rows 54 through 60: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (14 sc each row)
Fasten off Color B.
Checkpoint: The cocoon body from Row 1 through Row 60 should measure approximately 14 inches / 35.5 cm in total length. The wrap panels should overlap at center front by approximately 3 inches / 7.5 cm.
Part 2D: Cocoon Bottom Seam
Fold the cocoon body so that Row 1 (starting edge) is at the bottom. Using a tapestry needle, whip stitch across the foundation chain edge to close the bottom of the cocoon.
Part 2E: Cocoon Side Seams
Fold the cocoon so RS are together. Join the side edges from the bottom closed edge up through approximately Row 20, leaving the upper portion open for the wrap opening.
Section 3: Pixie Bonnet
The bonnet is worked in Color B (Soft Peach).
Part 3A: Bonnet Body
Ch 2.
Row 1 (RS): Work 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Turn. (3 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (5 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (7 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (9 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (11 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (13 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (15 sc)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (17 sc)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (19 sc)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (21 sc)
Row 11: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (23 sc)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (25 sc)
Row 13: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (27 sc)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (29 sc)
Row 15: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (31 sc)
Row 16: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (33 sc)
Row 17: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (35 sc)
Row 18: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (37 sc)
Row 19: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (39 sc)
Row 20: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (41 sc)
Rows 21 through 32: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc each row)
Do not fasten off.
Part 3B: Face Opening Edging
Do not turn after Row 32. Work 1 row of sc evenly along the long curved face-opening edge of the bonnet by working 1 sc for every row end across the side edge. This is approximately 32 sc down one side. Fasten off.
Part 3C: Bonnet Assembly
Fold the bonnet in half along the center back. The pointed tip should be at top back. Whip stitch the back bottom edge together from the fold to close the back seam.
Part 3D: Bonnet Tie Edging (Optional)
Join Color B at right face-opening corner. Ch 25 for tie. Sl st back down the chain to create a reinforced cord. Fasten off. Repeat at left face-opening corner.
Section 4: Final Assembly
Step 1: Lay the star base flat with RS facing up. Identify the bottom center arm.
Step 2: Place the completed cocoon swaddle body on top of the star base, centered, with the bottom closed end positioned at the lower center of the star.
Step 3: Using Color B and a tapestry needle, whip stitch the back of the cocoon to the star base along the lower portion of the cocoon body, approximately the bottom 5 inches / 12.5 cm. The cocoon should remain pouched above the stitched zone.
Step 4: Sew two wooden buttons onto the right wrap panel at the buttonhole positions.
Step 5: The pixie bonnet is used separately and is not attached to the cocoon or star.
Blocking and Finishing
Weave in all remaining ends, working tails through at least 1 inch of stitches in two directions before trimming.
Blocking the star base: Submerge in cool water, gently squeeze out excess water without wringing, lay flat on blocking mats, and pin each of the five arm tips firmly outward to the correct 24 inch measurement. Allow to dry completely.
Blocking the cocoon: Lay flat on a mat, smoothing gently into shape without pinning. Allow to dry.
Blocking the bonnet: Place over a balloon or large round bowl to set the crown shape if desired.
Care Instructions
Machine wash on gentle cycle in cold water. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Do not iron directly on crochet fabric. Wash before use as a newborn item.
Size Customization Tips
Larger star base: Add 2 additional increase rounds to Part 1A, then work 2 additional rows on each arm before beginning decreases.
Longer cocoon: Add 6 additional plain rows after Row 20 before beginning taper decreases.
Wider cocoon: Start with Ch 41 instead of Ch 37.
Larger bonnet: Add 4 additional increase rows after Row 20 before beginning the straight rows.
Thank you so much for choosing this starfish baby cocoon swaddle crochet pattern! I hope you love making it as much as I loved designing it. If you make one, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group.
If this pattern made you smile, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I read every single one, and seeing your finished starfish cocoons truly makes my day!
