Go dig through your yarn stash right now. That gorgeous cream skein you have been saving for something special? This is the project. This baby romper combines classic crochet construction with hand embroidered daisies that transform a simple garment into a true heirloom piece.
I want to be honest with you about this one. This is not a quick weekend project. You are looking at roughly 15 to 23 hours of work including the embroidery. But every single hour is worth it when you see that finished romper with its delicate blue and white flowers, those sweet ruffle shoulders, and those wooden buttons down the front.
The construction itself uses beginner friendly stitches throughout. If you can work single crochet and you are comfortable with basic shaping, you can absolutely make this. The embroidery is worked after assembly using simple techniques I will walk you through step by step.
Why This Romper Pattern Works So Well
The secret to this pattern is something called back loop only single crochet (BLO sc). When you work your single crochet into just the back loop of each stitch instead of both loops, you create a ridged fabric that looks remarkably like knit stockinette. It gives the romper that classic, polished appearance you see in high end baby boutiques.
The romper is constructed in separate pieces and then seamed together. You will make a back panel, a front panel with V neck shaping, two sleeves with adorable ruffle trim, and two leg tubes. This seamed construction gives you incredibly neat finishing and makes it much easier to get the fit just right.
Materials You Will Need for This Crochet Baby Romper
Yarn:
Hooks:
Notions:
A quick note on yarn selection: Avoid fuzzy or hairy yarns like mohair blends. They will obscure your beautiful embroidery work. You want something smooth with good stitch definition.
Gauge (Please Do Not Skip This)
With MC and E/4 hook in BLO sc:
To check your gauge, chain 25 and work BLO sc for 26 rows. Block lightly and measure the center section. If your gauge is off by even one stitch per four inches, your finished romper can differ by up to 1.5 inches in total circumference. For baby clothes, fit matters. Please swatch.
Finished Measurements (Size 0 to 3 Months)
Abbreviations and Special Stitches
Let me walk you through every stitch you will use in this pattern.
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
BLO sc = back loop only single crochet. This is the star of this pattern. When you look at a stitch from above, you see two loops forming a V shape. The back loop is the one farthest from you. Insert your hook under just that back loop, then complete your single crochet as normal. This creates a horizontal ridge on the front of your fabric.
sc2tog = single crochet two together. This is your decrease stitch. Insert hook in first stitch, pull up loop. Insert hook in next stitch, pull up loop. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three. You have turned two stitches into one.
sc inc = single crochet increase. Work two single crochets into the same stitch.
FLO sc = front loop only single crochet. The opposite of BLO, you work into the loop closest to you.
RS = right side (the pretty side that faces out)
WS = wrong side
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. The turning chain (ch 1) does NOT count as a stitch throughout this entire pattern
2. All main fabric rows are worked in BLO sc unless stated otherwise
3. Stitch counts in parentheses show your total after completing that row
4. Seaming is done with whipstitch on the wrong side or slip stitch on the right side. Pick one method and stay consistent
5. All embroidery is worked after the garment is fully assembled
Back Panel Instructions
The back panel is one rectangle worked from hem to shoulder with armhole shaping but no neck shaping.
Foundation: With MC and E/4 hook, ch 43.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (42 sc)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sc in each st across. Turn. (42 sc)
Rows 3 through 28: Repeat Row 2. (42 sc)
Your back panel body should measure approximately 5 inches tall. Now you begin armhole shaping.
Back Armhole Shaping
Row 29: Ch 1, sl st across first 3 sts, ch 1, BLO sc across to last 3 sts, leave last 3 sts unworked. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 30: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (34 sc)
Row 31: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (32 sc)
Row 32: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (32 sc)
Rows 33 through 44: Repeat Row 32. (32 sc)
Back Shoulder Shaping
Right Shoulder:
Row 45: Ch 1, BLO sc across first 10 sts only. Turn. Leave remaining sts on hold. (10 sc)
Row 46: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across. Turn. (9 sc)
Row 47: Ch 1, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (8 sc)
Fasten off. Place marker.
Left Shoulder:
With RS facing, skip center 12 sts of Row 44, rejoin MC in 13th stitch.
Row 45L: Ch 1, BLO sc across remaining 10 sts. Turn. (10 sc)
Row 46L: Ch 1, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (9 sc)
Row 47L: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across. Turn. (8 sc)
Fasten off. Place marker.
Front Panel Instructions
Foundation: With MC and E/4 hook, ch 43.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (42 sc)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (42 sc)
Rows 3 through 28: Repeat Row 2. (42 sc)
At Row 29, you divide for the V neck.
Right Front Half
Row 29 Right: Ch 1, sl st across first 3 sts, ch 1, BLO sc across next 18 sts only. Turn. Leave remaining 21 sts for left front. (18 sc)
Row 30R: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 31R: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (14 sc)
Row 32R: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across. Turn. (13 sc)
Row 33R: Ch 1, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (12 sc)
Row 34R: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (12 sc)
Row 35R: Ch 1, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (11 sc)
Row 36R: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (11 sc)
Row 37R: Ch 1, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (10 sc)
Rows 38R through 44R: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (10 sc)
Row 45R: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (10 sc)
Row 46R: Ch 1, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (9 sc)
Row 47R: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across. Turn. (8 sc)
Fasten off.
Left Front Half
With RS facing, rejoin MC in stitch 22 of Row 28.
Row 29 Left: Ch 1, BLO sc across 18 sts to last 3 sts, leave last 3 unworked. Turn. (18 sc)
Row 30L: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 31L: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (14 sc)
Row 32L: Ch 1, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (13 sc)
Row 33L: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across. Turn. (12 sc)
Row 34L: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (12 sc)
Row 35L: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across. Turn. (11 sc)
Row 36L: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (11 sc)
Row 37L: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across. Turn. (10 sc)
Rows 38L through 44L: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (10 sc)
Row 45L: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (10 sc)
Row 46L: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across. Turn. (9 sc)
Row 47L: Ch 1, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (8 sc)
Fasten off.
Sleeves (Make 2)
Foundation: With MC and E/4 hook, ch 27.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (26 sc)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (26 sc)
Rows 3 through 4: Repeat Row 2. (26 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc inc in first st, BLO sc across to last st, sc inc in last st. Turn. (28 sc)
Rows 6 through 8: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (28 sc)
Row 9: Ch 1, sc inc in first st, BLO sc across to last st, sc inc in last st. Turn. (30 sc)
Rows 10 through 22: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (30 sc)
Sleeve Cap Shaping
Row 23: Ch 1, sl st across first 3 sts, ch 1, BLO sc across to last 3 sts, leave last 3 unworked. Turn. (24 sc)
Row 24: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (22 sc)
Row 25: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (20 sc)
Row 26: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (18 sc)
Row 27: Ch 1, sc2tog, BLO sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (16 sc)
Row 28: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc2tog, BLO sc across to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog. Turn. (12 sc)
Row 29: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc2tog, BLO sc across to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog. Turn. (8 sc)
Fasten off, leaving long tail.
Sleeve Cuff Ribbing
With D/3 hook and RS facing, join MC at foundation edge.
Ribbing Row 1: Ch 1, work 26 sc evenly across. Turn. (26 sc)
Ribbing Row 2: Ch 1, alternate FLO sc and BLO sc across. Turn. (26 sc)
Ribbing Rows 3 through 6: Repeat Ribbing Row 2. (26 sc)
Fasten off.
Ruffle (Make 2)
This creates those beautiful shoulder frills.
With MC and E/4 hook, ch 25.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (24 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc inc in every st across. Turn. (48 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc inc in every st across. Turn. (96 sc)
Fasten off, leaving tail for seaming.
Leg Tubes (Make 2)
Foundation: With MC and E/4 hook, ch 31.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (30 sc)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. (30 sc)
Rows 3 through 30: Repeat Row 2. (30 sc)
Fasten off. Seam along long edge to form tube.
Leg Cuff Ribbing
With D/3 hook, join MC at foundation edge.
Ribbing Row 1: Ch 1, work 30 sc evenly around. Turn. (30 sc)
Ribbing Row 2: Ch 1, alternate FLO sc and BLO sc across. Turn. (30 sc)
Ribbing Rows 3 through 6: Repeat Ribbing Row 2. (30 sc)
Fasten off.
Button Placket
With MC and D/3 hook, ch 5.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (4 sc)
Rows 2 through 55: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (4 sc)
Fasten off.
Buttonhole Placket
Work same as button placket but add buttonholes:
Buttonhole Row: Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in last st. Turn.
Next Row: Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in last st. Turn. (4 sc)
Work 5 buttonholes evenly spaced approximately every 2 inches.
Assembly Instructions
1. Shoulder seams: Whipstitch front shoulders to back shoulders (8 sts each side)
2. Side seams: Join front and back from underarm to hem
3. Sleeve insertion: Pin sleeve caps into armholes, ease in fullness, whipstitch around
4. Ruffle attachment: Center ruffle strip over shoulder seam, whipstitch base in place
5. Leg seaming: Seam each leg tube along inseam
6. Crotch join: Attach leg tops to bodice bottom, seam inner legs together at center
7. Plackets and buttons: Attach both strips to center front, sew on wooden buttons
8. Weave in all ends
Embroidery Guide for the Daisy Details
This is where your romper transforms from lovely to absolutely breathtaking.
Lazy Daisy Stitch (for petals): Bring needle up at flower center. Insert back into same spot, bring tip up about 1/4 inch away while keeping floss looped under needle. Pull through gently. Secure with tiny anchor stitch. Work 6 to 8 petals radiating from center.
French Knot (for centers): Bring needle up at center. Wrap floss around needle twice. Insert tip back into fabric very close to exit point. Hold wraps taut and pull through carefully. Use golden yellow.
Stem Stitch (for stems): Work small overlapping stitches along stem line in green.
Placement Guide
Finishing and Care
Wet block your finished romper by submerging in cool water. Squeeze gently without wringing. Lay flat and pin to measurements. Let dry completely.
Machine wash on delicate in cold water or hand wash. Lay flat to dry. Never tumble dry or iron over embroidered areas.
Size Customization Tips
For 3 to 6 months: Add 4 stitches to back and front foundation chains. Add 2 rows before armhole shaping. Add 4 stitches to leg foundation.
For 6 to 9 months: Add 8 stitches to body panels. Add 4 rows before armholes. Add 4 stitches to sleeve foundation. Add 4 rows to leg tubes.
I hope this crochet baby romper pattern brings you as much joy to make as it will bring to whoever receives it. Those hand embroidered daisies truly make this piece something a family will treasure for generations.
If you loved this pattern, please save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And I would absolutely love to see your finished rompers! Drop a comment below or tag me on Instagram when you complete yours. Happy crocheting, friend.
