This bohemian peplum top features a fitted mesh bodice, a granny square waistband, and dramatic bell sleeves with scalloped edges. The construction combines several techniques: working flat panels, joining granny squares, and picking up stitches in the round.
If you have experience with garment construction and feel comfortable reading detailed stitch counts, this project will challenge you in the best way. The finished piece looks like something from a high-end boutique, but you will make it yourself with cotton yarn and patience.
The cream colorway with sage green and dusty rose accents in the waistband creates that garden fairy aesthetic without overwhelming the delicate mesh fabric. Plan for 30 to 45 hours of work, grab your favorite cotton yarn, and let’s get started.
About This Crochet Pattern
This romantic top works from the top down, beginning with separate front and back bodice panels in an open mesh stitch. The panels are seamed at the sides, leaving armhole openings for the sleeves. A band of nine granny squares wraps around the natural waist, adding structure and color contrast. From there, a flowing peplum skirt is worked downward in the round, expanding through gradual increases to create that signature fairy silhouette.
The bell sleeves are picked up directly at the armholes and worked downward, widening dramatically through strategic increase rounds. Every edge, including the hem, cuffs, and neckline, receives a delicate scallop trim. A lace-up ribbon closure at the center front neckline completes the feminine design.
Important note: The open mesh fabric is not opaque. Plan to wear this over a camisole, bralette, or sewn lining.
Skill Level
This pattern is rated intermediate to advanced. You should feel comfortable with:
If you have completed three or four garment projects before, you can tackle this with patience and careful attention to the instructions.
Finished Measurements
The written instructions produce a size Medium with these finished dimensions:
Size customization tips are included at the end of the pattern.
Materials Needed
Yarn
Main Color (MC) in Cream:
Approximately 1,100 yards / 1,006 meters of fingering to light DK weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn
Accent Colors for Waistband Granny Squares:
Choose yarn with good drape and softness rather than stiffness. Mercerized cotton works beautifully for this project.
Yarn Suggestions
Option 1: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK (100% cotton, 142 yards per 50g ball). Purchase 8 balls MC plus 1 ball each of Colors B and C.
Option 2: Scheepjes Catona (100% mercerized cotton, 62 yards per 25g ball). This fingering weight option creates a more delicate fabric. Purchase 18 balls MC plus 2 balls each Colors B and C.
Option 3: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (100% mercerized cotton, 186 yards per 100g ball). Purchase 6 balls MC plus 1 ball each Colors B and C. This is the most widely available option.
Hooks
Notions
Gauge
Using US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook and MC:
Bodice and peplum mesh stitch: 20 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm
Granny square (completed 3-round square): 3.5 inches / 9 cm square, blocked
Gauge matters for garments. Even half a stitch difference per inch will significantly alter the fit. Go up a hook size if your gauge is too tight, down if too loose. Always swatch before beginning.
Abbreviations
Special Stitches for This Crochet Top Pattern
Mesh Stitch (Worked Flat)
The mesh stitch creates an open, net-like fabric. It works over a multiple of 4 stitches plus 1, with a turning chain of 5.
Row setup: Chain your foundation plus 4. Work 1 sc into the 5th chain from hook (the 4 skipped chains count as ch-3 space plus 1). Then work: ch 3, skip 3 chains, sc in next chain. Repeat "ch-3, skip 3, sc" to end.
Subsequent rows: Ch 5, turn. Sc into first ch-3 sp of previous row. Ch 3, sc into next ch-3 sp. Repeat across until you reach the turning chain sp. Work sc into that sp.
In the round: Replace the turning chain setup with ch 3 at the start, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 3, repeat around, sl st to first sc to close.
Scallop Edging
This creates the decorative wavy border at the hem, cuffs, and neckline.
Working into each sc or ch-sp along the edge: sl st into first st, ch 3, 4 dc in same st, skip 2 sts or 1 ch-sp, sl st into next st, ch 3, 4 dc in same st. Repeat across or around.
Granny Square (3 Rounds, 3.5 inches)
Round 1 (Color C): Magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times. Sl st to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off Color C. (4 clusters of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 2 (Color B): Join Color B in any ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp. Ch 1. [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in next corner sp, ch 1] 3 times. Sl st to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off Color B. (8 clusters of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 4 ch-1 side sps)
Round 3 (MC): Join MC in any ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp. Ch 1. 3 dc in ch-1 side sp. Ch 1. [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in corner sp, ch 1, 3 dc in side sp, ch 1] 3 times. Sl st to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off MC. (12 clusters of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
You need 9 squares for the waistband.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Step-by-Step Instructions
Section 1: Back Bodice Panel
The back bodice is worked flat in rows using the mesh stitch. It spans from side seam to side seam, measuring 18 inches wide and 7 inches tall.
Foundation chain: Using MC and E-4 hook, chain 93.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 5th ch from hook. [Ch 3, skip 3 ch, sc in next ch] 21 times. Ch 3, skip 3 ch, sc in last ch. Turn. (23 sc anchor points, 22 interior ch-3 sps)
Rows 2 through 17: Ch 5, turn. Sc in first ch-3 sp. [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 21 times. Sc in 2nd ch of turning ch-5. Turn. (23 sc anchor points per row)
Checkpoint: After Row 17, your panel should measure approximately 7 inches tall and 18 inches wide. Set aside without fastening off.
Section 2: Front Bodice Panel with Lace-Up Neckline
The front panel is worked in two halves to create the lace-up opening at center front.
Right Front Half
Foundation chain: Using MC and E-4 hook, chain 51.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 5th ch from hook. [Ch 3, skip 3 ch, sc in next ch] 10 times. Ch 3, skip 3 ch, sc in last ch. Turn. (12 sc anchor points, 11 interior ch-3 sps)
Rows 2 through 8: Ch 5, turn. Sc in first ch-3 sp. [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 10 times. Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch of turning ch-5. Turn. (12 sc anchor points)
Do not fasten off.
Left Front Half
Work Rows 1 through 8 exactly as for Right Front Half. Do not fasten off.
Joining the Front Halves
Row 9 (Joining row): On the Left Front Half, ch 5, turn. Sc in first ch-3 sp. [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 10 times. Ch 3. Now join to Right Front Half: sc in the ch-3 sp at the center edge of Right Front Half. [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 10 times. Sc in 2nd ch of turning ch-5 of Right Front Half. Turn. (24 sc anchor points, 23 interior ch-3 sps)
Rows 10 through 17: Ch 5, turn. Sc in first ch-3 sp. [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 22 times. Sc in 2nd ch of turning ch-5. Turn. (24 sc anchor points, 23 interior ch-3 sps)
Checkpoint: Your front panel should now match the back: 7 inches tall and 18 inches wide, with a 4-inch lace-up column at center front.
Section 3: Assembling the Bodice
With RS facing, align the front and back panels.
Left side seam: Join yarn at the lower left corner. Sl st through both layers along the side edge for the full 7-inch height, working 1 sl st per row end. Fasten off.
Right side seam: Repeat on the right side.
Leave armhole openings unsewn. The joined bodice now forms a tube: 36 inches circumference at the bust, 7 inches tall.
Neckline edging: Join MC at the right back corner of the neckline. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the neckline opening. Work approximately 44 sc across the back neckline and 22 sc down each front lace-up edge. At the beginning and end of the lace-up opening, work a small ch-3 loop as a ribbon anchor. Fasten off.
Section 4: Waistband Granny Squares
Make 9 granny squares following the instructions in Special Stitches. Each finished square measures 3.5 inches.
Join-as-you-go on Round 3: When working Round 3 of squares 2 through 9, join to the previous square along one side edge. Replace each ch-1 between clusters with: sl st into the corresponding ch-1 sp of the adjacent square. At shared corners, replace ch-2 with: ch 1, sl st into corner ch-2 sp of adjacent square, ch 1.
After all 9 squares are joined, close the strip into a ring by joining the final square to the first square.
Attach the waistband: Position the granny square ring at the lower edge of the bodice. Using MC and a yarn needle, whipstitch the upper edge of the granny square band to the lower edge of the bodice.
Section 5: Peplum
The peplum is worked in the round downward from the waistband.
Foundation round: With RS facing and using MC and E-4 hook, join yarn at any corner ch-2 sp of the waistband lower edge. Work 2 sc in first corner sp, 3 sc in each of the 3 lower clusters of the first square, 1 sc in each ch-1 between clusters, 1 sc in join between squares. Repeat for all 9 squares, then sl st to first sc. (90 sc in foundation round)
Round 1: Sl st into first sc. Ch 3, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc. [Ch 3, skip 3 sc, sc in next sc] 21 times. Ch 3, sl st to beg sc. (22 ch-3 sps, 22 sc)
Rounds 2 through 4: [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] around. Sl st to first sc. (22 ch-3 sps, 22 sc)
Round 5 (increase round): Work [ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in same ch-3 sp] at 5 evenly spaced points around. (27 ch-3 sps, 27 sc)
Rounds 6 through 8: Work straight. (27 ch-3 sps, 27 sc)
Round 9 (increase round): Work an increase at every 5th ch-3 sp. (32 ch-3 sps, 32 sc)
Rounds 10 through 12: Work straight. (32 ch-3 sps, 32 sc)
Round 13 (increase round): Work an increase at every 6th ch-3 sp. (37 ch-3 sps, 37 sc)
Rounds 14 through 18: Work straight. (37 ch-3 sps, 37 sc)
Checkpoint: The peplum should measure approximately 9 inches from the waistband.
Scallop hem: Sl st into first sc anchor point. [Ch 3, 4 dc in same sc, skip next ch-3 sp, sl st into next sc anchor point] around. Sl st to beg sl st. Fasten off.
Section 6: Sleeves (Make 2)
Sleeves are worked in the round from the armhole openings.
Foundation round: With RS facing, join MC at the underarm point. Ch 1, work sc evenly around the armhole opening, 1 sc per row end. Sl st to first sc. (36 sc)
Round 1: Ch 3, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc. [Ch 3, skip 3 sc, sc in next sc] 8 times. Ch 3, sl st to beg sc. (9 ch-3 sps, 9 sc)
Rounds 2 through 5: Work straight in mesh. (9 ch-3 sps, 9 sc)
Round 6 (increase round): [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in same ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times. Sl st to first sc. (12 ch-3 sps, 12 sc)
Rounds 7 through 10: Work straight. (12 ch-3 sps, 12 sc)
Round 11 (increase round): Increase at every 4th ch-3 sp. (15 ch-3 sps, 15 sc)
Rounds 12 through 16: Work straight. (15 ch-3 sps, 15 sc)
Round 17 (increase round): Increase at every 5th ch-3 sp. (18 ch-3 sps, 18 sc)
Rounds 18 through 22: Work straight. (18 ch-3 sps, 18 sc)
Round 23 (increase round): Increase at every 6th ch-3 sp. (21 ch-3 sps, 21 sc)
Rounds 24 through 28: Work straight. (21 ch-3 sps, 21 sc)
Round 29 (increase round): Increase at every 7th ch-3 sp. (24 ch-3 sps, 24 sc)
Rounds 30 through 34: Work straight. (24 ch-3 sps, 24 sc)
Round 35 (final increase round): Increase at every 8th ch-3 sp. (27 ch-3 sps, 27 sc)
Rounds 36 through 40: Work straight. (27 ch-3 sps, 27 sc)
Scallop cuff edging: Sl st to first sc anchor point. [Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, skip 1 ch-3 sp, sl st into next sc anchor point] around. Sl st to beg sl st. Fasten off.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Checkpoint: Both sleeves should measure 18 inches from armhole to scallop edging and bell out dramatically at the cuff.
Section 7: Finishing
Ribbon lace-up: Thread approximately 1.5 yards of cream satin ribbon through the center front eyelets, beginning at the lower eyelet and lacing upward. Tie in a bow at the top neckline. Trim ribbon ends on a diagonal.
Side seam reinforcement: Using a yarn needle and MC, work a row of whipstitch along the inner side seams to stabilize.
Weave in all ends securely, pulling each end through at least 5 stitches in different directions.
Blocking Your Finished Top
Wet blocking is essential. Cotton yarn responds dramatically to wet blocking, and the open mesh will not reach full drape without it.
1. Fill a basin with cool water and submerge the garment
2. Gently press to saturate without wringing or twisting
3. Support the garment as you lift it from water
4. Lay flat on a blocking mat or clean towels
5. Pin to the finished measurements, placing pins at hem scallops, cuff scallops, and shoulder corners every 2 to 3 inches
6. Allow to dry completely (12 to 24 hours)
Do not wear until fully dry.
Care Instructions
Machine wash on gentle cycle in cool water. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, wring, or hang wet, as cotton stretches under its own weight. If pressing is needed, use a pressing cloth and low steam.
Size Customization Tips
To size up (Large, XL): Add mesh repeats to the foundation chain of both bodice panels. Each additional repeat adds approximately 1.6 inches to bust circumference. Add one more granny square to the waistband for each full size up.
To size down (Small, XS): Remove mesh repeats from the foundation chain. For size Small, remove 2 repeats from each panel and remove one granny square from the waistband.
For a longer peplum: Add 2 to 4 straight rounds between each increase round.
For wider sleeves: Add an additional increase round after Round 35.
Always re-swatch if changing hook size or yarn weight.
You Did It!
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I know it requires time and concentration, but the result is absolutely worth every stitch. When you finish your cream crochet fairy top, I would love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share in my Facebook group. Your makes always inspire me and help other crafters see what is possible.
If this pattern is calling to you, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I read every single comment and love hearing about your color choices, sizing adjustments, and proud finished pieces. Happy crocheting!
