This is SUCH a satisfying project to make! I’m talking about a complete two-piece bikini set that looks absolutely stunning and works up faster than you’d ever expect. We’re talking triangle halter top, boy-short bottoms, adorable hibiscus flower appliqués, and those gorgeous braided rope ties with tassels. The whole thing comes together in about 14 to 20 hours.
If you’ve ever wanted to crochet your own swimwear, this is the pattern to start with. The main stitch is just single crochet through the back loop only. That’s it. That one simple technique creates the beautiful knit-look texture you see in the photos.
Whether you’re making this for yourself, a beach vacation, or as an impressive handmade gift, you’re going to love how professional the finished set looks. Let’s dive right in!
Why This Bikini Set Pattern Works So Well
The secret to this bikini set is the single crochet through the back loop only (sc-blo) technique. When you work single crochet into just the back loop of each stitch, you create horizontal ridges that mimic the look of knitted fabric. This gives the finished pieces excellent stretch recovery, which is exactly what you need for swimwear.
The construction is straightforward too. You’ll make the hibiscus flowers first and set them aside. Then you’ll work the bikini top starting with a ribbed underband, build the triangle cups upward from the band, and attach all the ties. The bottoms are worked flat as one big rectangle, then folded and seamed to create the shorts shape. Nothing complicated here.
I especially love the little details on this set. The twisted rope ties give it that beachy, bohemian vibe. The tassels on the bottom side ties add movement and visual interest. And those coral hibiscus flowers with their yellow stamens? Absolutely perfect against the turquoise yarn.
Skill Level and Time Commitment
This pattern is rated intermediate, but don’t let that scare you. If you can work a single crochet, decrease stitches, and sew pieces together, you have all the skills you need.
The main reason it’s not labeled beginner is that you need consistent tension for the knit-look texture to show up properly. You’ll also be doing some basic shaping, assembling multiple components, and making twisted cords. None of these are difficult, they just require attention to detail.
Plan for about 14 to 20 hours total. The flowers take 1 to 2 hours. The top takes 5 to 7 hours. The bottoms take 6 to 8 hours. Ties and finishing add another 2 to 3 hours. Spread it out over a week or binge it in a weekend. Your choice!
Finished Measurements
This pattern is written for a size Small/Medium (US 4/6), which fits a 32 to 36 inch (81 to 91 cm) bust and 34 to 38 inch (86 to 97 cm) hip.
Here are the specific finished dimensions:
Top underband: approximately 28 inches (71 cm) around, unstretched, with ties allowing adjustment
Top cup height: approximately 5 inches (13 cm) from band to apex
Top cup width at base: approximately 6 inches (15 cm) per cup
Bottoms: approximately 14 inches (36 cm) tall including fold-over band, approximately 30 inches (76 cm) hip circumference unstretched
Size customization tips are included at the end of the pattern for those who need adjustments.
Materials You’ll Need
Yarn:
Hooks:
Notions:
Recommended Yarn Options
Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend (52% cotton, 48% Modal, worsted weight, 339 yd / 310 m per 7 oz / 200 g skein). Two skeins in MC. This has excellent stitch definition and feels soft against skin.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double (100% acrylic, 137 yd / 125 m per 50 g ball). Four balls in MC. Budget-friendly and widely available.
Cascade 220 Superwash (100% superwash wool, 220 yd / 200 m per 100 g skein). Three skeins in MC. Superior stitch definition and elasticity for the best knit-look texture.
Choose a yarn with minimal halo and good stitch definition so the back-loop texture shows up clearly. Cotton or cotton-blend yarns work best for swimwear because they don’t stretch out excessively when wet.
Gauge (Critical!)
18 sc x 22 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in back loop only single crochet, after blocking.
I cannot stress this enough: gauge matters for this project. Even one stitch per inch difference will significantly change your finished bust and hip measurements. Make a 5-inch by 5-inch swatch, block it, and measure before you start. Trust me on this one.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Here are all the abbreviations used in this pattern, with plain-English definitions:
Special Techniques
sc-blo (Single Crochet Through Back Loop Only)
This is the main stitch for the entire set. Insert your hook into the back loop only of the indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook. This creates the knit-look horizontal ridge texture you see throughout the fabric.
Twisted Cord
This creates the rope-like ties. Cut yarn to four times the desired finished cord length. Fold in half and anchor the fold. Twist the two halves clockwise until the yarn begins to kink back on itself when you introduce slack. Fold the twisted length in half again, allowing it to twist around itself. Knot the ends together.
Tassel
Wrap yarn around a 3-inch (8 cm) piece of cardboard 10 to 12 times. Slip a 6-inch (15 cm) length of yarn under all wraps at the top and tie tightly. Cut the loops at the bottom. Wrap a separate length of yarn around the tassel approximately half an inch (1.5 cm) below the tied top, knot securely, and trim.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. Every single crochet stitch in this pattern is worked through the back loop only unless otherwise noted.
2. A turning chain of 1 is used throughout. This turning chain does NOT count as a stitch.
3. The bikini top is worked in two separate triangle cup panels, joined to a ribbed underband, then ties are attached.
4. The bottoms are worked flat in a long rectangle, then seamed at the crotch, with the waistband folded over at the top.
5. All stitch counts appear in parentheses at the end of every row or round.
6. The right side (RS) of sc-blo fabric shows smooth V-shaped loops. The wrong side (WS) shows horizontal bar ridges.
Section 1: Hibiscus Flowers (Make 3 Total)
Using color A and smaller hook (3.5 mm):
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, 5 sc into ring, pull ring closed, sl st to first sc to join. (5 sc)
Rnd 2: Working sl st into each sc of Rnd 1 as base: (ch 4, 3 dc into 4th ch from hook, ch 3, sl st into base of those dc at the 4th ch, sl st into next sc) 5 times. (5 petals completed)
Fasten off color A, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail.
Flower Center
Using color B, ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 5 sc into ring, sl st to first sc to join. (5 sc)
Fasten off color B, leaving an 8-inch (20 cm) tail.
Sew the color B center piece onto the center of the flower, stitching through all layers to secure. Use the remaining color B tail to embroider a single straight stitch about half an inch (1.5 cm) long extending from the center outward over one petal to create the stamen. Weave in ends. Set all three flowers aside.
Checkpoint: Each finished flower should measure approximately 2.5 to 3 inches (6 to 8 cm) across petal tip to petal tip.
Section 2: Bikini Top Triangle Cup Panels (Make 2)
Each cup is worked flat, starting with a wide base and decreasing on both ends of every other row to create the triangle shape.
Using MC and larger hook (4.0 mm):
Foundation: Ch 29.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (28 sc)
Row 2 (RS): Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (28 sc)
Row 3: Sc2tog in first 2 sts, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (26 sc)
Row 4: Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (26 sc)
Row 5: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
Row 6: Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
Row 7: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
Row 8: Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
Row 9: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
Row 10: Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
Row 11: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (18 sc)
Row 12: Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (18 sc)
Row 13: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
Row 14: Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
Row 15: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
Row 16: Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
Row 17: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
Row 18: Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
Row 19: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
Row 20: Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
Row 21: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
Row 22: Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
Row 23: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
Row 24: Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
Row 25: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
Row 26: Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
Row 27: Sc2tog twice. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
Row 28: Sc2tog. (1 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Weave in the top apex tail.
Make a second cup panel identically.
Checkpoint: Each cup panel should measure approximately 6 inches (15 cm) wide at the base and approximately 5 inches (13 cm) tall from base to apex.
Section 3: Bikini Top Underband
The underband is a long horizontal ribbed strip that wraps around the underbust.
Using MC and larger hook:
Foundation: Ch 11.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
Row 2 (RS): Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
Repeat Row 2 until band measures 28 inches (71 cm) from starting edge. At S/M gauge this is approximately 126 rows total.
Final row: Sc-blo across. (10 sc)
Do not fasten off. Leave the band open at both short ends so ties can be attached.
Checkpoint: The band should be 10 stitches wide (approximately 2.2 inches / 5.5 cm tall after blocking) and 28 inches (71 cm) long.
Section 4: Bikini Top Assembly
Step 1: Lay the underband flat with RS facing up. Mark the center with a stitch marker. Measure 3 inches (8 cm) to the left and right of center and place markers.
Step 2: Position the first cup panel RS up, aligning its base edge (Row 1, the 28-stitch edge) along the top edge of the band, from the center marker to the 3-inch right marker.
Step 3: Using MC and yarn needle, whipstitch or mattress stitch the cup base to the top edge of the band.
Step 4: Repeat for the second cup panel on the left side of center.
Step 5: Pin the hibiscus flowers onto the cups. Position one flower on the upper outer corner of each cup, approximately 1.5 inches (4 cm) from the apex and 1.5 inches (4 cm) from the outer side edge. Sew securely with the long tail.
Section 5: Bikini Top Ties
Halter Neck Ties (Make 2)
Each tie is a twisted cord, approximately 24 inches (61 cm) long finished. Cut 8 strands of MC, each 100 inches (254 cm) long. Divide into two groups of 4. Twist and fold to produce two cords approximately 24 inches each. Knot each end.
Attach one halter tie to the apex of each cup by threading the cord end through the apex stitch twice and knotting.
Side Ties (Make 4)
Each tie is a twisted cord, approximately 16 inches (41 cm) long finished. Cut 6 strands of MC, each 68 inches (173 cm) long per tie.
Attach two side ties to each short end of the underband, one at the top edge and one at the bottom edge of the band end.
Section 6: Boy-Short Bottoms
The bottoms are worked flat in one large panel, then folded and seamed.
Using MC and larger hook:
Foundation: Ch 137.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (136 sc)
Row 2 (RS): Sc-blo across. Ch 1, turn. (136 sc)
Rows 3 through 78: Rep Row 2. Ch 1, turn after each row. (136 sc each row)
Checkpoint: The bottoms panel should measure approximately 30 inches (76 cm) wide and 14 inches (36 cm) tall.
Crotch Shaping
Row 79: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (134 sc)
Row 80: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (132 sc)
Row 81: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (130 sc)
Row 82: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (128 sc)
Row 83: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (126 sc)
Row 84: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (124 sc)
Row 85: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (122 sc)
Row 86: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (120 sc)
Row 87: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (118 sc)
Row 88: Sc2tog, sc-blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (116 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 24-inch (61 cm) tail for seaming.
Bottoms Assembly
Step 1: Fold the panel in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, aligning the foundation chain edge with Row 88 edge.
Step 2: Using the long tail and yarn needle, seam the two short curved edges together using mattress stitch or whipstitch. Seam from the fold point inward for approximately 5 inches (13 cm) on each side.
Step 3: Fold the top 3.5 inches (9 cm) of the panel downward over the outside of the shorts to create the fold-over waistband.
Step 4: Sew the third hibiscus flower centered on the right hip of the waistband, approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the fold.
Bottoms Side Ties (Make 4)
Make 4 twisted cords, each approximately 14 inches (36 cm) long finished. Cut 6 strands of MC, each 60 inches (152 cm) per tie.
Attach one tie to each side at the waistband fold level, and one to each side at 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the fold.
Make 4 tassels. Attach one tassel to the end of each of the two lower side ties.
Size Customization Tips
For a larger cup size (C/D): Begin with Ch 35 (work 34 sc). Work the same decrease cadence but for 34 rows total, adding two extra plain rows after Row 14 and after Row 20.
For a smaller cup size (AA/A): Begin with Ch 23 (22 sc). Work decreases every row rather than every other row starting at Row 3.
For a larger hip (size L/XL): Begin the bottoms foundation with Ch 155 (154 sc) for approximately 34 inches (86 cm) hip circumference. Add 4 additional plain rows before crotch shaping.
For a longer torso: Add rows to the underband in 2-row increments.
For wider ties: Increase the number of strands per cord from 6 to 10.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all remaining ends securely, weaving in at least 3 different directions.
Wet blocking is strongly recommended. Submerge the finished pieces in cool water for 10 to 15 minutes. Gently press out excess water without wringing. Lay flat on a blocking mat or clean towels. Pin the cups and bottoms to the correct measurements. Allow to dry completely, 24 to 48 hours.
For the flowers, simply mist with water and reshape petals by hand.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Do not machine wash or wring. Press gently in a clean towel to remove water. Lay flat to dry away from direct sunlight. Do not dry clean or iron. Store flat or loosely rolled.
You Did It!
I hope you absolutely love making this tropical hibiscus bikini set crochet pattern. It’s such a rewarding project, and the finished set looks like something you’d find in a boutique. The combination of that beautiful knit-look texture, the rope ties, and those sweet hibiscus flowers creates something truly special.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern! If you make this bikini set, I would love to see your finished piece. Tag me on Instagram or share it in my Facebook group. Seeing your creations honestly makes my whole day.
Go ahead and save this crochet pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make this bikini set. I’d love to hear which colors you chose and how it turned out!
