When I started sketching this bag, I had a clear vision. I wanted something that looked like a piece of art you could actually carry around. Something with that retro sunburst energy but in earthy, wearable colors. I also wanted it to be genuinely functional, with a real lining, proper hardware, and enough structure to hold your everyday essentials without flopping over.
The result is this Sunburst Stripe Hobo Bag, and I am SO pleased with how it turned out. Those bobble stitches radiating outward from the center create such satisfying texture. The rust, sage, and cream pinwheel pattern catches the eye without being too loud. And that leather handle with the brass hardware? It takes the whole thing from handmade project to statement accessory.
I designed this as an intermediate project because it does require some skills like working from a magic ring, managing multiple colors, and creating those puffy bobble stitches. But if you can follow a pattern and you are not afraid of a little color work, you can absolutely make this bag. Let me walk you through every single step.
What Makes This Crochet Bag Pattern Special
This hobo bag is constructed from two identical circular panels that feature a striking sunburst design. Each panel has eight wedge-shaped segments that radiate outward from a central ring. The wedges alternate between three colors in a pinwheel arrangement, creating that eye-catching spiral effect you see in the finished bag.
The construction method is clever. You crochet two flat circles, seam them together around three-quarters of their edges, and the natural curve of the joined panels creates the bag’s rounded shape. Add a box-bottom fabric lining, and suddenly you have real depth and structure. It is one of those designs where the engineering is almost as satisfying as the finished product.
The bobble stitch is the star here. Those raised, textured bumps pop outward and catch the light beautifully. They run in diagonal lines through each wedge section, adding visual interest and dimension that you simply cannot get with flat stitches.
Materials You Will Need for This Crochet Hobo Bag
Gather everything before you start. There is nothing worse than getting halfway through a panel and realizing you are short on yarn.
Yarn Requirements
You will need bulky weight yarn (weight 5) in three colors:
Cotton or cotton-blend yarn works best for bags. It holds its shape, resists stretching under weight, and gives you crisp stitch definition. Avoid fuzzy fibers like mohair or alpaca because they will hide your bobbles and cause the bag to sag over time.
Some yarn suggestions that work beautifully: Lion Brand Pound of Love, We Are Knitters The Petite Wool, or Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky. If you use worsted weight yarn instead of bulky, hold two strands together to achieve the correct gauge.
Hook and Notions
Hardware and Lining Supplies
Finished Size
The completed Sunburst Stripe Hobo Bag measures approximately 13 inches wide by 11 inches tall (excluding the handle), with a base depth of approximately 4 inches when the lining is inserted. In metric, that is about 33 cm wide by 28 cm tall with a 10 cm base depth. It is a perfect everyday size that holds your phone, wallet, keys, a small water bottle, and whatever else you need to carry.
Gauge Information
Getting gauge right matters a lot for this project. A panel that is too small will not be functional, and one that is too large will not hold its structure.
With your US K / 6.5 mm hook and bulky weight yarn:
For the sunburst panel specifically:
Make a gauge swatch before diving in. Trust me on this one.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me walk you through every abbreviation used in this crochet pattern. If you are newer to crochet, read through these definitions before starting.
Special Stitches
The Bobble Stitch (bo)
This pattern uses a 5-double-crochet bobble, which creates those gorgeous raised bumps. Here is how to work it:
1. Yarn over, insert hook into the indicated stitch or space
2. Yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
3. Yarn over, draw through 2 loops (2 loops remain). That is one incomplete double crochet.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 four more times into the same stitch. You now have 6 loops on hook.
5. Yarn over, draw through all 6 loops at once
6. Chain 1 to close and stabilize the bobble. This closing chain does not count as a stitch.
The bobble naturally pops to the wrong side as you work it. When you turn your work to the right side, the bobbles will pop outward correctly. Work all bobbles with the right side facing you.
Color Changes
Always change to your new color on the last yarn over of the final stitch in the current color. Pull the new color through to complete the stitch, then continue with the new color. This creates clean color transitions.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Read through these notes before starting. They will save you confusion later.
1. Make two identical panels. The front and back of the bag are the same.
2. The sunburst has 8 wedge segments. Each wedge is worked in its own color, and each gains stitches on every increase round to maintain the flat circular shape.
3. Color sequence matters. Reading clockwise from the top, the wedges are colored: Color A, Color B, Color C, Color A, Color B, Color C, Color A, Color B. This creates the pinwheel effect with no two adjacent wedges sharing a color.
4. Color changes happen at wedge boundaries, not at the end of rounds. You can manage this with separate yarn butterflies or by fastening off and rejoining at each wedge. The fastening-off method is cleaner and recommended for beginners.
5. All rounds are worked with the right side facing you unless otherwise noted.
6. Use different colored stitch markers for the beginning of each round and for each wedge boundary. This helps you track both simultaneously.
Step by Step Crochet Pattern Instructions
Panel (Make 2)
Foundation
Using Color A, make a magic ring (also called a magic circle). This is an adjustable loop that you work your first stitches into, then pull tight to close the center hole.
Round 1
Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), work 16 sc into the magic ring. Pull the ring closed snugly. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch to mark the beginning. Place 7 additional stitch markers after every 2nd stitch to mark the 8 wedge boundaries (stitches 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15 are your wedge-start stitches). Do not join. Work in a continuous spiral for Rounds 1 through 3.
(16 sc)
Color assignment for wedges 1 through 8 clockwise:
Round 2
Working in established wedge sections, for each wedge: work 2 sc into each stitch of that wedge (2 increases per wedge, 16 increases total). Move stitch markers to the first stitch of each wedge as you work. Join with sl st to first sc.
(32 sc total, 4 sc per wedge)
Round 3
For each wedge: sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st (1 increase at start and 1 increase at end of each wedge). Move markers.
(48 sc total, 6 sc per wedge)
Checkpoint: After Round 3, the panel should measure approximately 3 inches / 7.5 cm across. If yours is significantly different, adjust your hook size before continuing.
Round 4
For each wedge: sc in first st, bo in next st, sc in next 2 sts, bo in next st, 2 sc in last st.
(56 sts total, 7 sts per wedge)
Note: Each bobble counts as 1 stitch. The closing chain does not count.
Round 5
For each wedge: 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, bo in next st, sc in next 2 sts, bo in next st, sc in last st.
(64 sts total, 8 sts per wedge)
Round 6
For each wedge: sc in first 2 sts, bo in next st, sc in next 2 sts, bo in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st.
(72 sts total, 9 sts per wedge)
Round 7
For each wedge: 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, bo in next st, sc in next 3 sts, bo in next st, sc in next 2 sts.
(80 sts total, 10 sts per wedge)
Checkpoint: After Round 7, the panel should measure approximately 7 to 7.5 inches / 18 to 19 cm across.
Round 8
For each wedge: sc in first 3 sts, bo in next st, sc in next 2 sts, bo in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st.
(88 sts total, 11 sts per wedge)
Round 9
For each wedge: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, bo in next st, sc in next 3 sts, bo in next st, sc in next 3 sts.
(96 sts total, 12 sts per wedge)
Round 10
For each wedge: sc in first 3 sts, bo in next st, sc in next 3 sts, bo in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st.
(104 sts total, 13 sts per wedge)
Round 11
For each wedge: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, bo in next st, sc in next 4 sts, bo in next st, sc in next 4 sts.
(112 sts total, 14 sts per wedge)
Checkpoint: After Round 11, the panel should measure approximately 11 to 11.5 inches / 28 to 29 cm across.
Round 12
For each wedge: sc in first 4 sts, bo in next st, sc in next 3 sts, bo in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st.
(120 sts total, 15 sts per wedge)
Fasten off all colors and weave in ends securely. The panel is complete.
Complete the second panel identically.
Final Checkpoint: Both panels should measure approximately 13 inches / 33 cm across and match each other in size and shape.
Assembling Your Sunburst Hobo Bag
Seaming the Panels
1. Lay both panels with wrong sides together and right sides facing outward. Align the wedge boundaries so the sunburst patterns match.
2. Using Color A and starting at a point that will become the bottom-left corner of the bag opening, work a surface slip stitch seam through both panels simultaneously with your 6.5 mm hook.
3. Seam three-quarters of the circumference (approximately 90 stitches, about 270 degrees of the circle). Leave the top quarter unseamed for the bag opening.
(Approximately 90 surface sl sts)
4. Fasten off and weave in ends.
5. The round panels naturally form a rounded-square bag shape when seamed.
Checkpoint: The opening should span approximately 12 to 13 inches across the top.
Top Edge Border
1. With right side facing, join Color C with a sl st to the first unseamed stitch at the right edge of the bag opening.
2. Border Round 1: Working across the top opening through both layers where they overlap at corners, sc evenly around the entire opening. Target stitch count is 52 sc. Join with sl st to first sc.
(52 sc)
3. Border Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc.
(52 sc)
Fasten off Color C. Weave in ends.
Attaching D-Ring Tabs
Position the two D-ring tabs on the inside of the bag at the top edge, one at each upper corner (approximately 1.5 inches from each corner toward center). Thread each tab through its D-ring, fold in half, and align both raw ends inside the bag at the top border.
Using a tapestry needle and double strand of Color A or C, whipstitch each tab firmly to the inside top edge. For extra security, add Chicago screws or rivets at this point.
Fabric Lining Instructions
The lining gives this bag its structure and depth. Do not skip this step.
1. Cut two pieces of lining fabric, each 14 inches wide by 12 inches tall
2. Cut one base piece, 14 inches wide by 5 inches tall
3. With right sides together, sew the two main lining pieces along both side seams using a 0.5 inch seam allowance
4. Sew the base piece to the bottom edges of the main panels, creating a box-bottom lining
5. Install the magnetic snap on the inside front and back of the lining, centered horizontally, approximately 1 inch down from the top edge
6. Fold the top edges down by 0.5 inches, press, fold down again by 0.5 inches, press
7. Insert the lining into the bag with wrong sides of lining facing wrong sides of crochet panels
8. Hand stitch the lining to the bag using a whipstitch or ladder stitch. The lining top should sit approximately 0.25 inches below the crochet edge
Handle and Strap Attachment
Attach the leather top handle by threading each end through the corresponding D-ring. Secure according to manufacturer instructions.
Attach the crossbody strap by clipping the swivel hooks onto the D-rings.
Blocking and Finishing Your Crochet Bag
Wet blocking is recommended before seaming. Soak each panel in cool water for 15 to 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Lay flat on a foam blocking board, pin to target dimensions (approximately 13 inches across), and allow to dry completely. This usually takes about 24 hours.
Blocking evens out the bobble texture, flattens the panels, and ensures both match in size.
Weave in all ends using your tapestry needle. Run each tail at least 2 to 3 inches through the backs of adjacent stitches in two different directions before trimming.
Size Customization Options
To make the bag larger: Continue the established increase pattern with additional rounds. Each round adds 8 stitches total and approximately 0.5 to 0.75 inches to the diameter. Adjust lining dimensions accordingly.
To make the bag smaller: Stop at Round 10 for a compact version measuring approximately 11 inches across. Reduce lining to 12 inches by 10 inches.
To change the depth: The box depth depends entirely on the lining. Increase the base panel from 5 inches to 7 inches for a deeper base without changing the crochet panels.
Care Instructions for Your Finished Bag
Hand wash in cool water with gentle detergent. Reshape and lay flat to dry. Do not machine wash or tumble dry. Do not iron directly on the crochet surface. For spot cleaning, use a damp cloth with mild soap and blot dry.
Store the bag stuffed with tissue paper to maintain its shape. Condition the leather hardware periodically to prevent cracking.
You Did It!
Thank you so much for making this Sunburst Stripe Hobo Bag with me. I genuinely hope you love the finished result as much as I do. There is something incredibly satisfying about carrying a bag you made yourself, especially one with this much personality.
If you make this crochet bag pattern, I would absolutely love to see your version. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in our Facebook group. Seeing your color choices and finished bags is honestly one of my favorite parts of designing.
If you loved this pattern, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it later. And drop a comment below once you have made yours. I read every single one, and I cannot wait to hear how it turns out for you!
