Go raid your yarn stash right now. That soft blue and pretty pink you have been saving for something special? This is the project. The Pastel Heart Baseball Cap combines straightforward single crochet construction with a structured brim that actually holds its shape. You will work in the round from the crown down, then switch to back and forth rows for the visor.
This is an intermediate level pattern, and I want to be honest about that upfront. If you have made a few hats or amigurumi projects already, you have the skills to tackle this. The techniques include working in a continuous spiral, shaping a dome with increases, and creating a flat brim panel. Nothing scary, just a few different methods combined into one really satisfying project.
The finished cap looks like something you would buy at a boutique, not make at home with a hook and some yarn. That little crocheted heart applique on the front adds the sweetest touch. Let me walk you through exactly how to make one.
Why This Crocheted Baseball Cap Works So Well
Most crocheted hats are beanies. There is nothing wrong with beanies, but sometimes you want something with a bit more structure and a lot more personality. This baseball cap gives you that classic visor shape while still being completely handmade.
The secret is in the tight single crochet fabric. When you work single crochet at a firm gauge, you get a fabric stiff enough to hold its shape without being cardboard-like. The crown curves naturally from the increase shaping, and the brim stays put thanks to multiple rows of dense stitches.
You can even add a plastic or cardboard insert to the brim for extra stiffness. I will explain that optional step later in the pattern.
Materials You Will Need
Gather these supplies before you start:
Yarn:
Hook:
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions:
Lion Brand Pound of Love works beautifully for this project. Choose Pastel Blue for Color A and Pastel Pink for Color B. The 100% acrylic gives excellent stitch definition and durability. Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double also works well if you want more color options.
Whatever yarn you choose, pick something smooth and tightly spun. Fuzzy or loosely spun yarns will obscure your stitches and make counting difficult.
Gauge
18 single crochet stitches by 20 rows equals 4 inches / 10 cm worked in the round.
Gauge matters a lot here. A cap worked at the wrong gauge will not fit properly. Take time to swatch in the round rather than flat, since many crocheters work at different tensions depending on the method.
Finished Size
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me define every stitch abbreviation you will encounter. I am including plain English explanations so nothing catches you off guard.
BLO means back loop only. When you look at a stitch from above, you see two loops. The back loop is the one farthest from you. Working in the back loop only creates a horizontal ridge.
ch stands for chain. This is your basic foundation stitch.
dc means double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops twice.
hdc stands for half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all three loops at once.
inc means increase. For this pattern, work 2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
MR refers to magic ring, also called an adjustable loop. This creates a tight closed center for working in the round.
pm means place marker.
rnd stands for round.
sc is single crochet. Insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.
sc2tog is single crochet two together, which decreases your stitch count by one. Insert hook in next stitch and pull up a loop. Without completing the stitch, insert hook in the following stitch and pull up another loop. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and draw through all three loops.
sl st means slip stitch. Insert hook, pull up a loop, and draw it directly through the loop on your hook.
st(s) means stitch or stitches.
Special Techniques
Magic Ring (MR)
Make a loop with the yarn so the tail end is behind the working end. Insert your hook through the center of the loop from front to back. Pull up the working yarn through the loop. Chain 1. This chain does not count as a stitch. Work the required number of stitches into the center of the loop. Pull the tail end firmly to close the ring before continuing.
If the magic ring intimidates you, you can substitute by chaining 2 and working your stitches into the second chain from the hook. The center will not close as tightly, but it works fine.
Crocheted Heart Applique
Chain 2. In the second chain from hook, work all of the following into that single chain: 3 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, 2 hdc, 3 sc. Slip stitch to join into a loop at the base. Fasten off and leave a 12 inch tail for sewing. The finished heart measures approximately 1 inch wide.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
This cap is worked in continuous rounds, which means you do not join at the end of each round unless told to. Use a removable stitch marker in the last stitch of each round and move it up as you go. This keeps you from losing your place.
The chain 1 at the beginning of a round does not count as a stitch throughout this entire pattern.
Color A (blue) is used for the crown and body. Color B (pink) is used for the brim, button top, and heart applique.
Step by Step Crochet Pattern Instructions
Section 1: Crown Button (Color B)
Work this small button first. It covers the center join at the top of the cap.
Make a magic ring with Color B.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into the MR, pull ring closed, sl st to first sc to join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st around, sl st to join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each st around, sl st to join. (12 sts)
Fasten off Color B, leaving a 10 inch tail. Set aside.
Checkpoint: The button disc should measure approximately 0.75 inch in diameter. It should be flat and round.
Section 2: Crown (Color A)
The crown is worked in a continuous spiral. Do not join rounds.
Make a magic ring with Color A.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into MR, pull ring closed. Do not join. Place marker in last st. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Inc, sc 1) repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: (Inc, sc 2) repeat 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: (Inc, sc 3) repeat 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: (Inc, sc 4) repeat 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: (Inc, sc 5) repeat 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: (Inc, sc 6) repeat 6 times. (48 sts)
Rnd 9: (Inc, sc 7) repeat 6 times. (54 sts)
Rnd 10: (Inc, sc 8) repeat 6 times. (60 sts)
Rnd 11: (Inc, sc 9) repeat 6 times. (66 sts)
Rnd 12: (Inc, sc 10) repeat 6 times. (72 sts)
Rnd 13: (Inc, sc 11) repeat 6 times. (78 sts)
Rnd 14: (Inc, sc 12) repeat 6 times. (84 sts)
Checkpoint: After Round 14, the crown circle should measure approximately 7.5 inches in diameter when laid flat.
Section 3: Upper Body (Color A)
Now you work even rounds to build the depth of the cap.
Rnds 15 through 22: Sc in each st around. (84 sts each round)
Checkpoint: After Round 22, the cap body should measure approximately 5.5 inches from crown center to working edge.
Section 4: Lower Body and Band (Color A)
Rnds 23 through 26: Sc in each st around. (84 sts each round)
After Round 26, sl st in the next stitch and fasten off Color A. Leave a 6 inch tail.
Checkpoint: Full cap body height from crown center to lower edge should measure approximately 7.5 inches.
Section 5: Brim Fold Ridge and Brim (Color B)
Join Color B with a sl st to any stitch at the lower edge.
Rnd 27 (Fold Ridge Round): Ch 1, work 1 sc in BLO of each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (84 sts)
Mark the Front Brim Panel: The brim is worked across only the front 42 stitches. Place a marker at the center front stitch, then count 21 stitches to each side. Those 42 stitches between the outer markers form your brim panel.
Brim Rows (worked back and forth):
Turn your work and begin working back and forth across only the front 42 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in each of the next 42 sts. (42 sts)
Rows 2 through 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (42 sts each row)
Do not fasten off. The brim should measure approximately 2.75 inches from the fold ridge.
Brim Edging: If using a brim insert, cut it to fit now (approximately 2.75 by 6 inches curved shape). Fold the brim in half along the ridge round with the insert inside. Work sc evenly around the outer brim edge: 42 sts across the bottom, approximately 14 sc down one side edge, and approximately 14 sc up the other side. Sl st to join. (approximately 70 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Section 6: Lower Edge Finishing (Color B)
Return to the lower edge of the cap body. Join Color B at the left side edge of the brim where it meets the cap side.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around the remaining back 42 sts of the cap lower edge, working neatly across the brim join edges. Sl st to join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around the entire lower opening, sl st to join. (84 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Section 7: Heart Applique (Color B)
Make 1 heart following the special stitch instructions earlier. Position the heart on the center front panel, approximately 1.5 inches up from the brim fold ridge. The point of the heart faces downward. Sew securely using whip stitches around the perimeter. Weave in ends inside the cap.
Section 8: Crown Button Attachment
Position the pink button disc over the center top of the cap, covering the magic ring closure. Sew it in place with small stitches around the outer edge. Weave in all ends.
Finishing and Blocking Your Baseball Cap
Weave in all remaining ends on the wrong side, working the tails in at least two different directions to prevent unraveling.
For acrylic yarn, do not wet block. Instead, gently steam from 2 to 3 inches above the fabric and shape over a rounded bowl or balloon inflated to head size. Allow to dry completely.
For cotton yarn, soak in cool water for 10 minutes, gently squeeze out excess water, and shape over a head sized form. Allow to dry completely.
Curl the brim gently over your hand to create the classic curved visor shape.
Care Instructions
Machine wash on gentle cycle in cool water if your yarn label permits. Reshape immediately after washing. Do not tumble dry or iron directly on the surface. Store stuffed lightly with tissue paper to maintain the dome shape.
Size Adjustments
For a larger head: Continue adding increase rounds following the pattern (inc, sc X) repeated 6 times. Each additional round adds approximately 1.3 inches to circumference.
For a smaller head: Stop increase rounds earlier. For a child size of approximately 19 inches, stop at Round 12 (72 sts).
For a longer brim: Add more rows in Section 5. Every 2 rows adds approximately 0.45 inch of depth.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern. I really hope you love making and wearing your Pastel Heart Baseball Cap as much as I loved designing it. If you make one, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo on Facebook. Nothing makes my day like seeing your finished projects.
Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you give it a try. I always love hearing how it turned out for you.
