Daisy Market Tote Bag Free Crochet Pattern

Let me guess. You saw this bag, fell in love with those cheerful little daisies, and immediately thought "there is no way I can make that." I get it. The 3D flowers look fancy. The mesh body looks complicated. The whole thing screams advanced crocheter territory.

Here is the truth. If you can single crochet, double crochet, and work in the round, you can absolutely make this bag. The mesh pattern is just one simple repeat that you will memorize after two rounds. The daisies are small, quick motifs that you make separately and sew on at the end. No complicated color changes while you work. No confusing construction.

Whether you are an intermediate crocheter ready to level up or an ambitious beginner willing to take your time, this daisy market tote is completely within reach. I am going to walk you through every single step, explain every stitch, and make sure you have zero confusion along the way.

About This Crochet Pattern

This roomy market tote features a classic mesh body worked in the round from the bottom up. You start with a firm oval base, transition into an airy filet-style mesh that gives the bag its breathable structure, then add long shoulder straps worked directly from the top edge. The star of the show? Those gorgeous 3D daisy appliques scattered across the front and back.

The finished bag measures approximately 15 inches wide by 12 inches tall, with handles that give you a total drop of about 34 inches from bag bottom to top of the strap loop. Perfect for farmers market trips, beach days, or everyday carry.

Skill level: Intermediate. You need to be comfortable working in the round, reading mesh repeats, maintaining stitch counts in lacy patterns, and making small 3D motifs.

Time estimate: 12 to 18 hours total, spread across 3 to 4 sessions. The mesh body works up quickly once you memorize the repeat. Plan extra time for making the 16 to 20 daisies and hand sewing them on with care.

Materials You Will Need

Yarn:

Main Color (MC): 550 to 600 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn in natural, cream, or ecru

Daisy Petals (CC1): 80 to 100 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn in white

Daisy Centers (CC2): 30 to 40 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn in bright yellow

Daisy Leaves and Stems (CC3): 25 to 30 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn in sage green

Recommended yarns: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton works beautifully for this project. WeCrochet Dishie Worsted is another excellent option with crisp stitch definition.

Important note: Choose 100 percent cotton or a cotton-linen blend for best results. Acrylic alone will not hold the bag’s shape under load. Avoid fuzzy or textured yarns for the mesh body since the open stitch work requires smooth yarn to read clearly.

Hooks:

US size G-6 (4.0 mm) for body and straps

US size F-5 (3.75 mm) for daisy motifs

Additional supplies:

Tapestry needle for seaming and weaving ends

Scissors

4 to 6 locking stitch markers

Optional: one yard of lightweight cotton muslin for an interior lining

Gauge

With MC and US G-6 (4.0 mm) hook in mesh pattern:

One 6-stitch mesh repeat equals 1.5 inches wide

4 rows of mesh pattern equals 2 inches tall

Or equivalently: 14 stitches and 8 rows in single crochet (sc) equals 4 inches by 4 inches

Gauge matters here. A bag that is too large will sag and lose shape. A bag that is too small will not hold a meaningful load. Check gauge before beginning and adjust hook size as needed.

Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

Let me break down every abbreviation you will encounter in this pattern:

ch = chain: yarn over, pull through loop on hook

ch-sp = chain space: the gap created by chain stitches in the previous row

sl st = slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion

sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops

dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops

hdc = half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops at once

sc2tog = single crochet two together (a decrease): insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook in following stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook

dc2tog = double crochet two together (a decrease): yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, yarn over, insert hook in following stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook

sk = skip

st(s) = stitch(es)

rnd = round

RS = right side

WS = wrong side

pm = place marker

rep = repeat

rem = remaining

beg = beginning

Special Stitches

Mesh Pattern (worked in the round)

The mesh repeat is a multiple of 3 stitches plus 1. Each repeat unit equals: 1 dc, chain 2, skip 2 stitches (or ch-2 space from previous round), 1 dc.

At the end of each round, join with slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3. On the following round, chain 3 (counts as dc), chain 2, skip the chain 2 space, double crochet in next dc. Continue around.

This sounds more complicated than it is. Once you work two rounds, you will see the rhythm: dc, chain 2, skip, dc, chain 2, skip. That is it.

3D Daisy Motif

Each daisy has three parts: a petal ring, a center dome, and a leaf/stem accent. You make each part separately, then assemble before attaching to the bag.

Petal Ring (CC1 with smaller hook):

Make a magic ring (adjustable ring).

Round 1: Chain 1, work 10 sc into the ring, pull ring closed, join with slip stitch to first sc. (10 sc)

Round 2 (petals): (Chain 6, slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, hdc in last chain, slip stitch into same base sc as starting slip stitch, slip stitch into next sc) repeat 10 times. This creates 10 petals. At the end of round 2, fasten off CC1, leaving a 6-inch tail.

Center Dome (CC2 with smaller hook):

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Chain 1, work 6 sc into ring, join with slip stitch. (6 sc)

Round 2: Chain 1, 2 sc in each sc around, join with slip stitch. (12 sc)

Round 3: Chain 1, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 6 times, join with slip stitch. (18 sc)

Do not fasten off. Begin decreasing immediately to create dome shape:

Round 4: Chain 1, (sc in next sc, sc2tog) 6 times, join. (12 sc)

Round 5: Chain 1, (sc2tog) 6 times, join. (6 sc)

Stuff center lightly with a small amount of scrap yarn or a cotton ball if desired. This is optional but adds nice dimension. Fasten off CC2, leaving a 12-inch sewing tail.

Leaf/Stem Accent (CC3 with smaller hook):

Chain 8. Sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next 2 chains, hdc in next 2 chains, dc in last 2 chains. This is one leaf. Chain 4 for stem. Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail.

Assembly: Place the petal ring flat. Center the CC2 dome on top of the petal ring and whipstitch firmly through both layers using the CC2 sewing tail. The dome covers the center hole and anchors the petals in place. Weave in the petal ring tail.

Crochet Pattern Instructions

Section 1: Oval Base

With MC and G-6 hook, chain 21.

Round 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in each of next 18 chains (19 sc along first side), 3 sc in last chain (corner), now sc in each of next 18 unused loops along underside of chain, 2 sc in same first chain, join with slip stitch to first sc. Do not turn. (42 sc)

Round 2: Chain 1, sc in each of first 19 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 19 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc, join with slip stitch to first sc. (46 sc)

Round 3: Chain 1, sc in each of first 19 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 19 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, join with slip stitch to first sc. (50 sc)

Round 4: Chain 1, sc in each of first 19 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, sc in each of next 19 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, join with slip stitch. (56 sc)

Round 5: Chain 1, sc in each of first 19 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times, sc in each of next 19 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times, join with slip stitch. (62 sc)

Round 6: Chain 1, sc in each of first 19 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 3 times, sc in each of next 19 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 3 times, join with slip stitch. (68 sc)

Checkpoint: Your oval should measure approximately 8 inches long and 5 inches wide. It should lie flat without cupping or ruffling. If it cups, your tension is too tight. If it ruffles, your tension is too loose.

Do not fasten off.

Section 2: Mesh Body

Transition Round: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 16 stitches, dc2tog over next 2 stitches, dc in next 31 stitches, dc2tog over next 2 stitches, dc in each remaining stitch to end, join with slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3. (66 dc)

Mesh Round 1: Chain 5 (counts as dc plus chain 2), skip next 2 dc, (dc in next dc, chain 2, skip next 2 dc) 21 times, join with slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning chain 5. (22 dc, 22 ch-2 spaces)

Mesh Round 2: Slip stitch into first chain 2 space, chain 5 (counts as dc plus chain 2), (dc in next dc, chain 2, skip chain 2 space) 21 times, join with slip stitch to 3rd chain of beginning chain 5. (22 dc, 22 ch-2 spaces)

Mesh Rounds 3 through 24: Repeat Mesh Round 2 for a total of 24 mesh rounds. This produces approximately 12 inches of body height.

Checkpoint: After Mesh Round 24, the bag body should measure approximately 12 inches tall from the base edge. You should have 22 open mesh squares around the circumference.

Section 3: Top Edge Reinforcement

Top Edge Round 1: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in the same dc as join, sc in each of next 2 chains of the chain 2 space, (sc in next dc, sc in each of next 2 chains of chain 2 space) 21 times, join with slip stitch to first sc. (66 sc)

Top Edge Round 2: Chain 1, sc in each sc around, join with slip stitch to first sc. (66 sc)

Top Edge Round 3: Chain 1, sc in each sc around, join with slip stitch to first sc. (66 sc)

Do not fasten off. Place stitch markers to mark the 8-stitch strap attachment zones on both the front and back of the bag.

Section 4: Straps

Strap 1:

Attach MC with slip stitch to the outer edge of the front strap zone. Chain 1.

Row 1 (WS): Sc in each of the next 8 stitches, turn. (8 sc)

Row 2 (RS): Chain 1, sc in each of 8 sc, turn. (8 sc)

Repeat Row 2 until the strap measures 22 inches from the pickup edge.

At the end of the final row, do not fasten off. Hold the strap across the bag interior and align it with the 8-stitch zone on the back edge. Join with slip stitch through both the last strap stitch and the corresponding top edge stitch of the back strap zone. Continue slip stitching across all 8 stitches to secure. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Strap 2: Repeat for the second strap, working from the back strap zone to the front strap zone.

Section 5: Daisy Motifs and Attachment

Make 18 daisies total following the 3D Daisy Motif instructions above.

Lay the blocked bag flat. Plan placement for 9 daisies on the front face and 9 on the back face. Place them in a scattered pattern, neither perfectly aligned nor randomly chaotic. Aim for 3 loose diagonal rows of 3, slightly staggered.

Using a tapestry needle and the sewing tail from each daisy center dome, whipstitch the daisy firmly to the bag mesh. Stitch around the full perimeter of the petal ring to secure.

Using the CC3 tail from each leaf accent, stitch the leaf and stem diagonally between flowers to connect them visually.

Finishing and Blocking

Weave in all ends securely on the wrong side. Weave each tail in at least two directions to prevent unraveling.

To block: Submerge the finished bag in cool water for 10 to 15 minutes. Gently press out excess water by rolling the bag in a clean towel. Do not wring. Stuff the bag with plastic bags or newspaper to hold the oval shape. Lay flat on a blocking mat or clean towel. Use rust-proof pins to pin the top edge open and the strap ends flat. Allow to dry completely, which takes 24 to 48 hours for cotton.

Blocking opens the mesh beautifully and sets the daisies firmly in place.

Care Instructions

Machine wash on the gentle cycle in cold water. Lay flat to dry. Do not put in the dryer since heat will shrink cotton and distort the bag shape. Do not dry clean. Iron on low if needed.

I really hope you love making this daisy market tote as much as I loved writing this pattern for you. It is such a satisfying project, and those little daisies never fail to make me smile. If you make one, please save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily later. And I would absolutely love to see your finished bags, so drop a comment below or tag me on social media when yours is complete!