I found this design tucked away in my project folder with the working title "birthday princess" scribbled across the top. It started as a sketch for my niece’s third birthday, inspired by those gorgeous golden-trimmed gowns you see in storybooks. The ruby red and warm gold combination felt so regal, so perfect for a little one who loves to twirl.
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After months of refining the bodice shaping and getting those flutter sleeves just right, I finally have a pattern I’m proud to share. I’ve named it the Ruby Gold Princess Dress because honestly, what else could it be called? This dress is pure fairy tale magic in yarn form.
Fair warning: this is not a quick weekend project. But if you’re ready for a rewarding challenge that results in the most stunning toddler dress you’ve ever made, keep reading. Every stitch is worth it.
About This Ruby Gold Princess Dress Crochet Pattern
This crochet pattern creates a breathtaking occasion dress sized for toddlers approximately 2 to 3 years old. The finished piece features a fitted two-panel bodice, a gloriously full gathered skirt, delicate flutter sleeves, and an intricate lace hem border. Coiled roses, pointed leaves, and decorative cord detailing complete the princess-worthy look.
The target finished chest measures 56 cm (22 inches), designed for a body chest of 50 to 52 cm with 4 to 6 cm of ease. The shoulder-to-hem length runs about 46 to 49 cm, with a bodice depth of approximately 22 cm. Always choose your size by measurements rather than age.
Skill level: Intermediate to advanced. You’ll work garment assembly, lace edging, small shaped motifs, and detailed appliqué. If you’ve made a few garments before and feel comfortable with shaping, you’re ready for this beautiful challenge.
Materials You’ll Need
Yarn
You’ll need sport weight or fine weight cotton yarn, approximately 125 meters per 50 grams. Here’s your planning allowance:
Total approximately 1,050 meters before small contrasts. Combine allowances when colors repeat. Your actual usage must be measured on your sample.
Tools
Adjust your garment hook size to achieve the correct gauge.
Gauge
Blocked gauge: 20 dc and 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm
To make your swatch: Chain (ch) 32. Work a double crochet (dc) in the 3rd chain from hook and in each remaining chain (30 dc). Work 18 rows total. Wash and dry as you would the finished garment, then measure the central 20 dc and 12 rows. Change your hook size and re-swatch until both dimensions match.
Getting gauge right is essential for proper fit. Don’t skip this step!
Abbreviations and Terminology
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout. Let me walk you through each abbreviation:
Important counting rule: Turning ch 1 or ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch anywhere in this pattern. Join rounds to the first actual stitch. Mark that stitch and count every shaping row.
Numbers in brackets are repeats. Numbers in parentheses at row ends are stitch counts.
Front Bodice Instructions
Rows 1 through 14
With ruby red and your 3.5 mm hook, ch 58.
Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook and each remaining ch. (56 dc) Turn.
Rows 2 through 14: Ch 2, dc in every st. (56 dc) Turn after each row.
Do not add a stitch into the turning chain.
Armhole Row 15
Sl st in the first 4 stitches. Ch 2, dc in each of the next 48 stitches. Leave the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. (48 dc)
The 4 unworked stitches on each side form a 2 cm underarm ledge.
Rows 16 through 20
Ch 2, dc in all 48 stitches. Turn.
At gauge, the full panel is now about 16.7 cm tall. Place removable markers around the outermost 10 stitches at each edge. The central 28 stitches form the neckline opening.
First Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26
Ch 2, dc in the first 10 stitches. Leave the remaining 38 stitches unworked and turn. (10 dc)
Work 5 further rows of 10 dc, turning each row. Fasten off with a sewing tail.
Second Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26
With the same face of the panel toward you, attach yarn at the opposite outer edge of Row 20. Work toward the center: ch 2 and dc across only the outermost 10 stitches. Turn.
Work 5 further rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.
Both straps must have 6 rows above Row 20.
Front Bodice Checkpoint
Decorative neckline cords added later can create a curved visual outline over this square structural opening.
Back Bodice Instructions
Rows 1 through 14
Using ruby red, make a second panel exactly as Front Rows 1 through 14: 56 dc each row. Mark the center between stitches 28 and 29.
Left Half, Rows 15 through 23
Row 15: Sl st in first 4 sts. Ch 2, dc in next 24 sts, stopping at the center marker. Leave the other half unworked. Turn. (24 dc)
Rows 16 through 23: Ch 2, dc in each st. Turn. (24 dc)
Fasten off.
Right Half, Rows 15 through 23
Return to the unworked half of Row 14. Attach at the center marker and work toward the outer edge: ch 2, dc in the next 24 sts, leaving the final 4 sts unworked. Turn. (24 dc)
Work Rows 16 through 23 as for the left half. Fasten off.
The center edges remain separate to create the back opening.
Back Shoulders, Rows 24 through 26
On each half, attach yarn at the outer armhole edge of Row 23 and dc across the outermost 10 sts. Leave the inner 14 sts unworked. Turn.
Work 2 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.
The two 14-st inner gaps make a 28-st back neckline.
Joining the Bodice
Block the panels to the target measurements. With right sides together, join each pair of 10-st shoulder tops using mattress stitch. For mattress stitch, align matching edges and pick up one small strand from each edge alternately with a tapestry needle. Tighten gradually so the join lies flat. Never pull the seam shorter than the fabric.
Join side edges from the foundation edge through Row 14 only, matching rows carefully. Keep all upper edges open for armholes. Turn right side out.
Check Before Adding the Skirt
The lower edge has 56 foundation stitches on each panel, 112 total. The back slit begins above Row 14. Try the bodice on a correctly sized dress form, checking chest ease and head access before adding weight from the skirt.
Skirt Construction
Round 1
With ruby red, join at one side seam of the bodice foundation. Ch 2, work 2 dc into the underside of each of the 112 foundation stitches. (224 dc) Join.
This intentional doubling forms the full gathered skirt. It’s what gives the dress that gorgeous princess volume!
Rounds 2 through 23
Ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. (224 dc each round)
Turn after every round to reduce bias and keep the join less visible.
Round 24
Ch 2, repeat [dc in next 13 sts, 2 dc in next st] 16 times. Join. (240 dc)
Each repeat consumes 14 old stitches and makes 15 new stitches.
Hem Foundation
Ch 1, sc in each dc. Join. (240 sc)
Change to the accent color for the fan border. Before the border, the skirt should measure approximately 20 cm below the waist. Check length on your sample.
Flutter Sleeves
Sleeve Foundation
Use warm golden yellow and 3.5 mm hook. On one armhole, identify the shoulder seam. Measure 6 cm down the front edge and 6 cm down the back edge. Mark both points.
Join at the front marker, work 30 sc evenly across the 12 cm upper arc to the back marker, crossing the shoulder seam. Do not work around the lower underarm.
Flutter Rows
Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each sc. (60 dc) Turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, repeat [dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] 30 times. (90 dc) Turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in every st. (90 sc) Fasten off.
Repeat on the other armhole, matching the marked arc and counts. This yields one softly ruffled cap on each side.
Lace Hem Border
Hem Round 1
With warm golden yellow, join in any of the 240 hem foundation sc. Ch 1 and sc in that same stitch.
Repeat 24 times: skip next 4 foundation sts, 11 tr in next st, skip next 4 foundation sts, sc in next st.
The last sc location is the starting sc. Instead of making a second sc there, join to the first sc.
Result: 24 fans of 11 tr and 24 sc anchors.
Hem Round 2
Ch 1, sc in same anchor. For each fan: ch 1, work dc in each of its 11 tr with ch 1 between adjacent dc, ch 1, sc in the next anchor.
On the last fan, join to the first sc instead of making a duplicate anchor. Each fan has 11 dc and 12 ch-1 spaces.
Hem Round 3
Ch 1, sc in each sc anchor, each dc, and each ch-1 space around. Join and fasten off. (576 sc)
Keep tension relaxed. Wet-block individual fans into smooth rounded scallops without pulling the skirt waist wider.
Coiled Rose Appliqués
Standard Rose (Petal Strip)
With warm golden yellow and the 3 mm hook, ch 42.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (41 sc) Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, repeat [skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next st] 10 times.
You have 10 petals and 11 anchoring sc. Fasten off, leaving 35 cm for sewing.
Shaping the Rose
Starting at one short end, roll the strip with the scallops pointing upward. Keep the first two petals tight for the center, then overlap the others more loosely. Stitch through every layer across the underside. Aim for a 4 to 5 cm flower. Do not leave a loose spiral.
Larger Waist Rose
Make a second strip with ch 58. Work 57 sc in Row 1 and 14 petals in Row 2 using the same repeat. Roll and sew. Aim for 6 to 7 cm.
For a flatter lower border rose, use the smaller rose and press its base outward before sewing.
Color Options
Use warm golden yellow for the main roses. For a two-color bouquet, make half the small roses in ruby red and half in warm golden yellow. Embroider three tight pale stitches across each center if a pearl-like accent is desired. Do not add loose beads for child safety.
Leaves and Small Flowers
Pointed Leaf
With golden yellow and 3 mm hook, ch 9.
Working along one side: sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, and (sc, ch 2, sc) in the last ch.
Continue along the opposite side of the same chain: hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in last.
Fasten off with a sewing tail. Embroider a straight vein down the middle if desired.
Tiny Filler Flower
With a contrast color and 3 mm hook, make a magic ring. To make a magic ring: create an adjustable loop around two fingers, insert the hook through it and draw up the working yarn. Ch 1, then work the listed stitches over both strands of the loop. Pull the tail to close the center.
Repeat 5 times into the ring: ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st.
Tighten, fasten off, and sew the center securely. Embroider a contrasting center using three short straight stitches.
Quantities to Make
These counts create a front-focused design. The back remains plain.
Appliqué Placement
Lay the blocked dress flat. Mark the front center and both side seams. Arrange motifs 3 to 5 cm above the start of the lace hem, distributing them evenly between the side seams. Overlap only the leaf bases, not their tips.
Baste first, then sew around all edges and through every layered center with small matching stitches.
Waist and Decorative Finish
Decorative Cords
With warm golden yellow and 3 mm hook, chain to the needed measured length, then sl st back along the chain.
Make two neckline cords about 30 cm each and two V-panel cords about 18 cm each. Measure against your blocked bodice before cutting. Sew all cords flat to the fabric. They are ornaments, not functional lacing.
Front Arrangement
Use the design illustration as a placement guide only. Form a curved or sweetheart outline just below the real neckline. Place the paired V cords from the upper chest toward the central waist motif.
Where crossed lacing is specified, embroider 4 to 5 shallow crosses directly on the fabric between them. Do not leave long loose cord spans.
Lower Scrolls
Make additional slip-stitched chains to bridge the spaces between lower motifs in shallow S-curves. Baste first and secure every 1 cm. Keep chains away from the loose outer hem fans.
Waist Detail
Sew the central motif at the front waist and small motifs on either side. Reinforce the reverse with matching stitches without cinching the waist.
Small Crochet Bow (If Required)
Ch 25, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (24 sc) Work 8 sc rows total.
Fold the short ends to the center and sew. Wrap the center with a 6-st-wide, 6-row sc strip. Sew securely.
Neckline Edge and Back Bands
Neckline Edge
Using ruby red or the specified trim color, join at the back neck. Work 1 sc per horizontal stitch and approximately 2 sc per dc row end around the neck, excluding the vertical center back slit.
At inner corners, work sc2tog across the corner if needed to lie flat. Join. Work one further round of sc. Join and fasten off.
The exact edge count depends on your blocked row gauge. Keep both sides symmetrical.
Back Bands
Along each vertical back slit edge, work 2 sc into each dc row end for Rows 15 through 23. (18 sc) Turn.
Work 2 more rows of 18 sc. Fasten off.
Lightly block the two bands so that they overlap by about 1 cm without pulling the back panel.
Closures
Sew three snaps through small soft backing patches at approximately 1 cm below the top of the slit, its midpoint, and 1 cm above its bottom. Align paired halves before stitching.
Cover exposed backing edges with soft fabric. Confirm that the opening allows easy dressing without pulling the neckline.
Final Blocking and Care
Final Block
Weave ends through several stitches, reverse direction, and secure. Wash according to the yarn label. Gently press out water in a towel. Do not wring.
Pin the bodice to 56 cm chest circumference. Ease the skirt outward without stretching the waist. Shape the lace scallops, sleeve ruffles, and appliqués. Dry completely on a flat surface.
Care Instructions
Hand wash cool if compatible with all materials. Support the wet garment and dry flat. Do not hang while wet.
Check snaps, seams, ribbon, and appliqué attachments before each wear. Repair any loose parts before use.
Important Safety Notes
This design is occasion clothing, not sleepwear. The illustration may show decorative beads or ribbon. For a child-worn sample, substitute embroidered centers, stitch sash and bow tails flat, and secure every appliqué edge. Use with a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress where the fabric is open.
Sample Review Checklist
Before gifting or selling your finished dress, verify these measurements after blocking:
Make and assess one complete sample before offering this as a gift or for sale. Confirm comfortable arm movement, enough chest ease, easy dressing, smooth bands, secure embellishments, and comfortable inside seams.
Length Adjustments
To make the dress longer or shorter, add or remove plain skirt rounds before the final shaping or hem. At the target solid gauge, one dc round changes length by about 0.8 cm.
Preserve the final 240-st hem foundation. Chest changes require a fresh graded calculation. Do not simply change hook size for sizing adjustments.
You Did It!
I know this Ruby Gold Princess Dress crochet pattern is a labor of love. It asks a lot of you, but it gives back tenfold in the form of the most gorgeous handmade dress imaginable. Seeing a little one twirl in something you created with your own hands is pure magic.
Thank you so much for trusting me with your time and yarn. I truly appreciate you choosing this pattern for your project. If you make this dress, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your finished projects genuinely makes my day.
Be sure to save this Ruby Gold Princess Dress crochet pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I’d love to hear how it turns out for you!
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