I call this one the "Peter Rabbit" cardigan, and it has quite the story behind it. I sketched the first version of this design in a little notebook about three years ago while sitting in a hospital waiting room. My sister had just had her first baby, and I wanted to make something truly special to welcome my new nephew into the world. The soft blue yarn reminded me of the vintage Beatrix Potter books we grew up with, and adding that little bunny applique felt like the perfect finishing touch. I finally pulled that notebook out last month, refined the pattern, and now I get to share it with you.

This top-down raglan cardigan works up beautifully in light worsted or DK weight yarn. The subtle horizontal ridges come from alternating half double crochet rows with slip stitch rows worked in the front loop only. It looks far more complicated than it actually is.
If you have been wanting to try a top-down baby garment but felt intimidated, this is your sign. The construction is logical, the stitch counts are clear, and that adorable bunny applique at the end makes every single row worth it.
Why You Will Love This Baby Cardigan Pattern
This crochet baby cardigan combines everything I look for in a handmade baby gift. The raglan construction means no seaming the body, which is always a win in my book. The texture adds visual interest without complicated stitch work. And that little crocheted bunny with its pompom tail? It turns a simple cardigan into a keepsake.
The pattern is written for three sizes: 0 to 3 months, 3 to 6 months, and 6 to 12 months. I have included stitch counts for all three sizes throughout, so you can choose the perfect fit for your little recipient.
What makes this beginner-friendly: The main body uses only two basic stitches. The shaping happens at predictable intervals. And I have built in checkpoints so you can verify your stitch counts before moving on.
Materials You Will Need
Before you begin, gather these supplies. Having everything ready makes the project flow so much more smoothly.
Yarn:
Recommended Yarn Options:
Hooks:
Notions:
Gauge
18 hdc x 12 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in the main ridge stitch pattern using US size G-6 / 4.0 mm hook, after blocking.
I cannot stress this enough: gauge matters for garments. Even half a stitch difference per inch will dramatically change the finished size. Work a swatch at least 5 inches square and measure the center section. Adjust your hook size up or down as needed.
Finished Measurements
Size 0 to 3 months: Chest circumference 16 inches, body length from underarm to hem 5 inches, total length from shoulder 8.5 inches, sleeve length from underarm 5.5 inches.
Size 3 to 6 months: Chest circumference 17 inches, body length from underarm to hem 5.5 inches, total length from shoulder 9 inches, sleeve length from underarm 6 inches.
Size 6 to 12 months: Chest circumference 18.5 inches, body length from underarm to hem 6 inches, total length from shoulder 10 inches, sleeve length from underarm 6.5 inches.
The instructions below are written for size 6 to 12 months. Where sizes differ, counts appear in parentheses as (0 to 3 months, 3 to 6 months, 6 to 12 months). When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me walk you through every stitch used in this pattern. If you are new to any of these, take a moment to practice before starting.
Special Techniques
Ridge Row
This creates the beautiful horizontal texture you see throughout the cardigan. On a right side row, chain 1 (does not count as a stitch), then slip stitch in the front loop only of each half double crochet across. Turn. The raised ridges will be visible on the right side of your fabric.
Raglan Increase Set
At each of the four marker positions, work: 2 hdc in the stitch before the marker, slip the marker, 2 hdc in the stitch after the marker. This adds 2 stitches at each marker position for a total of 8 stitches increased per increase row.
Slip Stitch Rib
With the smaller hook, chain 5. Row 1: Slip stitch in second chain from hook and in each chain across (4 sl sts). Turn. Row 2: Chain 1, slip stitch in the back loop only of each slip stitch across. Turn. Repeat Row 2 for pattern. This creates a stretchy, dense ribbed fabric.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. This cardigan is worked top-down in one flat piece through the raglan yoke. The sleeves are then separated and worked in the round. The body continues flat after sleeve separation.
2. All turning chains in this pattern are chain 1 and do NOT count as a stitch. Stitch counts reflect only actual stitches worked.
3. Place stitch markers between stitches at each raglan point. Move markers up as you work each row.
4. Buttons are sewn to the left front band (as worn). Buttonholes are worked in the right front band during finishing.
5. The bunny applique is worked separately and sewn on after blocking.
Neckline and Yoke Instructions
The yoke is worked flat, beginning at the neckline edge.
Foundation Chain
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), hdc in first ch and in each ch across. Turn.
Placing Your Markers
Place markers between the following stitches to mark the four raglan points:
0 to 3 months: Between sts 6/7 (raglan 1), sts 11/12 (raglan 2), sts 24/25 (raglan 3), sts 29/30 (raglan 4). Sections: right front 6, right sleeve 5, back 13, left sleeve 5, left front 6.
3 to 6 months: Between sts 6/7 (raglan 1), sts 12/13 (raglan 2), sts 27/28 (raglan 3), sts 33/34 (raglan 4). Sections: right front 6, right sleeve 6, back 15, left sleeve 6, left front 6.
6 to 12 months: Between sts 7/8 (raglan 1), sts 13/14 (raglan 2), sts 30/31 (raglan 3), sts 36/37 (raglan 4). Sections: right front 7, right sleeve 6, back 17, left sleeve 6, left front 7.
Working the Yoke Rows
Row 2 (WS, increase row 1): Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across, working a raglan increase set at each marker (2 hdc in st before marker, sm, 2 hdc in st after marker). 8 sts increased.
Row 3 (RS, ridge row): Ch 1, turn. Sl st in FLO of each st across.
Row 4 (WS, increase row 2): Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across with raglan increase set at each marker. 8 sts increased.
Row 5 (RS, plain hdc): Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across.
Row 6 (WS, increase row 3): Ch 1, turn. Hdc across with raglan increase set at each marker. 8 sts increased.
Row 7 (RS, ridge row): Ch 1, turn. Sl st in FLO of each st across.
Row 8 (WS, increase row 4): Ch 1, turn. Hdc across with raglan increase set at each marker. 8 sts increased.
Row 9 (RS, plain hdc): Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across.
Row 10 (WS, increase row 5): Ch 1, turn. Hdc across with raglan increase set at each marker. 8 sts increased.
Row 11 (RS, ridge row): Ch 1, turn. Sl st in FLO of each st across.
Row 12 (WS, increase row 6): Ch 1, turn. Hdc across with raglan increase set at each marker. 8 sts increased.
Row 13 (RS, plain hdc): Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across.
Row 14 (WS, increase row 7): Ch 1, turn. Hdc across with raglan increase set at each marker. 8 sts increased.
For 0 to 3 months: Proceed to sleeve separation.
Row 15 (RS, ridge row, 3 to 6 months and 6 to 12 months only): Ch 1, turn. Sl st in FLO of each st across.
Row 16 (WS, increase row 8, 3 to 6 months and 6 to 12 months only): Ch 1, turn. Hdc across with raglan increase set at each marker. 8 sts increased.
For 3 to 6 months: Proceed to sleeve separation.
Row 17 (RS, plain hdc, 6 to 12 months only): Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across.
Row 18 (WS, increase row 9, 6 to 12 months only): Ch 1, turn. Hdc across with raglan increase set at each marker. 8 sts increased.
Yoke Checkpoint
Before moving on, verify your measurements and stitch counts.
Your yoke should measure approximately:
Section stitch counts:
Sleeve Separation
On the next row (a wrong side row), you will work across the right front, skip the right sleeve stitches by placing them on hold, work across the back, skip the left sleeve stitches by placing them on hold, and work across the left front. You will add underarm chains at each separation point.
Sleeve separation row (WS):
Ch 1, turn. Hdc across right front stitches.
At raglan marker 1: Remove marker. Ch 2 (underarm chain). Skip all right sleeve stitches and place them on a stitch holder or scrap yarn.
At raglan marker 2: Remove marker. Hdc across back stitches.
At raglan marker 3: Remove marker. Ch 2 (underarm chain). Skip all left sleeve stitches and place them on a stitch holder or scrap yarn.
At raglan marker 4: Remove marker. Hdc across left front stitches.
Stitch counts for body after separation (including 2 underarm chain sts at each join):
Tips for Success
Track your rows. I recommend keeping a tally on paper or using a row counter app. The raglan increases happen on specific rows, and losing count can throw off your entire yoke.
Check your stitch counts frequently. After every increase row, count your stitches. It takes 30 seconds and can save you hours of frogging later.
Use locking stitch markers. They are easier to move than split-ring markers and less likely to fall out.
Block your pieces. Blocking evens out your stitches and helps the cardigan drape properly. Pin it to size, spritz with water, and let it dry completely.
Bunny Applique Notes
The bunny applique is worked separately using the smaller F-5 / 3.75 mm hook and your accent colors. The body is worked in brown (CC1), the inner ears in light pink (CC2), and the bow in sage green (CC3). A small cream pompom creates the fluffy tail.
Work the bunny body in a spiral, starting with a magic ring. The ears are worked separately and sewn on. The bow is a simple chain with wrapped center. Full detailed instructions for the applique are included in the complete pattern.
Position the finished bunny on the lower right front panel of the cardigan, roughly 1 inch from the bottom hem and 1 inch from the button band. Whip stitch around the edges using matching thread or yarn.
Finishing Touches
The neckband, cuffs, and hem are all worked in slip stitch rib using the smaller hook. This creates a tidy, stretchy edge that holds its shape through washing.
Sew your five wooden buttons evenly spaced along the left front band. The buttons shown have a lovely "handmade with love" engraving that adds extra charm, but any 18 to 20 mm wooden buttons will work beautifully.
Weave in all ends securely. Baby items get washed frequently, so take extra care to weave ends in multiple directions.

Care Instructions
For machine-washable acrylic yarn, wash on a gentle cycle in cold water and tumble dry low. For cotton blends, lay flat to dry to prevent stretching. Store folded rather than hung to maintain the shape of the shoulders.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next baby project. I truly hope you enjoy making it as much as I enjoyed designing it. There is something so satisfying about creating a handmade garment that a little one will actually wear, and that bunny applique gets me every single time.
If you make this cardigan, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your finished projects is honestly the best part of my week.
Save this baby cardigan crochet pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you have any questions or just want to share your progress. I read every single one, and this community is what makes designing patterns so rewarding. Happy hooking!
