Let me introduce you to the cutest dragon plush you will ever make with your own two hands. This cream Dragonite amigurumi sits about 10 inches tall when finished and features the most adorable chunky texture that makes it irresistibly huggable. If you have been nervous about tackling amigurumi or working with velvet yarn, take a breath. This pattern uses only basic stitches worked in continuous rounds, and I will walk you through every single step.
I designed this little guy using super soft chenille yarn that gives him that plush, squishy look you see in the photo. Those big sparkly safety eyes, the sweet little snout, blue horns and tail tip, plus those colorful spots along his tail make him absolutely unique. Whether you are making this for a child, a fellow Pokémon fan, or yourself, this crochet pattern delivers a professional looking result without requiring advanced skills.
Why This Dragonite Amigurumi Pattern Works So Well
The construction method here is straightforward once you understand the pieces. You will crochet the head, body, arms, legs, tail, snout, and horns separately. Then you will stuff and assemble everything at the end. Working in pieces might sound intimidating, but it actually makes the project easier. You can focus on one small section at a time without juggling a complicated shape.
The velvet chenille yarn creates that chunky, textured appearance you see in the photos. Each stitch puffs up beautifully, hiding any small imperfections in your tension. This is actually great news for beginners because the yarn is very forgiving.
Skill level: Confident beginner to intermediate. If you can single crochet, increase, decrease, and work in the round, you have everything you need.
Materials You Will Need
Before we dive into the step by step crochet tutorial, gather these supplies:
Yarn:
- Approximately 200g of cream or off-white chenille velvet yarn, bulky weight (I recommend Himalaya Dolphin Baby or similar)
- Small amounts of light blue chenille yarn for horns and tail tip (about 20g)
- Small amounts of red and yellow chenille yarn for tail spots (scraps are fine)
- Small amount of cream or white chenille yarn for the snout
Hook:
- 4.0mm crochet hook (adjust if needed to achieve tight stitches with no gaps showing stuffing)
Notions:
- One pair of 18mm or 20mm safety eyes with sparkle or holographic iris
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing
- Stitch marker
- Yarn needle for assembly
- Scissors
Gauge: Gauge is not critical for amigurumi, but your stitches should be tight enough that stuffing does not show through. If you see gaps, go down a hook size.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me define every stitch before we begin. I will use these abbreviations throughout the pattern.
Magic ring (MR): An adjustable starting loop that closes completely. You wrap yarn around your fingers, pull up a loop, chain one, then work your first round stitches into the ring. Pull the tail to close the center tight.
Chain (ch): The foundation loop. Yarn over, pull through the loop on your hook. Example: ch 2 means make two chain stitches.
Single crochet (sc): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. This is your main stitch for the entire project.
Increase (inc): Work two single crochet stitches into the same stitch. This adds one stitch to your count. Example: if you have 6 stitches and work inc in each, you end with 12 stitches.
Invisible decrease (dec): Insert hook through front loops only of the next two stitches, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook. This creates a tighter, neater decrease than the standard method. Highly recommended for amigurumi.
Slip stitch (sl st): Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion. Used to join or close.
Front loop only (FLO): Work into only the front loop of the stitch instead of both loops.
Back loop only (BLO): Work into only the back loop of the stitch.
Step by Step Crochet Pattern
Head (make 1 in cream)
The head is worked from the top down in continuous rounds. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and move it up as you go.
Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring, pull tight. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: *Sc 2, inc* repeat around. (24 sts)
Round 5: *Sc 3, inc* repeat around. (30 sts)
Round 6: *Sc 4, inc* repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 7: *Sc 5, inc* repeat around. (42 sts)
Round 8: *Sc 6, inc* repeat around. (48 sts)
Rounds 9 to 18: Sc in each st around. (48 sts) — 10 rounds even
Round 19: *Sc 6, dec* repeat around. (42 sts)
Round 20: *Sc 5, dec* repeat around. (36 sts)
Round 21: *Sc 4, dec* repeat around. (30 sts)
Insert safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, approximately 8 to 10 stitches apart. Secure with washers on the inside.
Round 22: *Sc 3, dec* repeat around. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing firmly with fiberfill. Continue stuffing as you close.
Round 23: *Sc 2, dec* repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 24: *Sc 1, dec* repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 25: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leave a tail, and use your yarn needle to close the remaining hole.
Body (make 1 in cream)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat. (18 sts)
Round 4: *Sc 2, inc* repeat. (24 sts)
Round 5: *Sc 3, inc* repeat. (30 sts)
Round 6: *Sc 4, inc* repeat. (36 sts)
Rounds 7 to 16: Sc in each st. (36 sts) — 10 rounds even
Round 17: *Sc 4, dec* repeat. (30 sts)
Round 18: Sc in each st. (30 sts)
Round 19: *Sc 3, dec* repeat. (24 sts)
Round 20: Sc in each st. (24 sts)
Round 21: *Sc 2, dec* repeat. (18 sts)
Stuff body firmly.
Round 22: *Sc 1, dec* repeat. (12 sts)
Leave open for attaching to head. Fasten off with long tail for sewing.
Arms (make 2 in cream)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Rounds 3 to 5: Sc in each st. (12 sts)
Round 6: *Sc 1, dec* repeat. (8 sts)
Rounds 7 to 14: Sc in each st. (8 sts) — 8 rounds
Stuff lightly, more at the hand area. Flatten opening and sl st closed. Leave tail for sewing.
Legs (make 2 in cream)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat. (18 sts)
Rounds 4 to 6: Sc in each st. (18 sts)
Round 7: Sc 6, dec 3 times, sc 6. (15 sts)
Round 8: Sc 5, dec 2 times, sc 6. (13 sts)
Rounds 9 to 12: Sc in each st. (13 sts)
Stuff firmly. Flatten opening and sl st closed. Leave tail for sewing.
Tail (make 1)
Start with cream yarn.
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: *Sc 1, inc* repeat. (9 sts)
Rounds 3 to 6: Sc in each st. (9 sts)
Round 7: *Sc 2, inc* repeat. (12 sts)
Rounds 8 to 14: Sc in each st. (12 sts)
Change to blue yarn.
Round 15: Sc in each st. (12 sts)
Round 16: *Sc 2, inc* repeat. (16 sts)
Rounds 17 to 19: Sc in each st. (16 sts)
Round 20: *Sc 2, dec* repeat. (12 sts)
Round 21: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off, close hole. Stuff tail lightly, keeping it flexible. Leave long cream tail at start for attaching to body.
Tail Spots (make 1 red, 1 yellow)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc in each st. (12 sts)
Sl st to close. Leave tail for sewing onto tail.
Horns (make 2 in blue)
Round 1: MR, 4 sc. (4 sts)
Round 2: *Sc 1, inc* repeat. (6 sts)
Round 3: Sc in each st. (6 sts)
Round 4: *Sc 2, inc* repeat. (8 sts)
Round 5: Sc in each st. (8 sts)
Round 6: *Sc 3, inc* repeat. (10 sts)
Round 7: Sc in each st. (10 sts)
Stuff lightly. Flatten base. Leave long tail for sewing to head.
Snout (make 1 in cream or white)
Round 1: MR, 5 sc. (5 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st. (10 sts)
Round 3: *Sc 1, inc* repeat. (15 sts)
Rounds 4 to 5: Sc in each st. (15 sts)
Sl st to join, fasten off with long tail. Stuff very lightly to give dimension. Sew to front center of face below eyes.
Assembly Instructions
This is where your dragon comes to life. Take your time here.
1. Attach head to body: Position the open end of body against the bottom of the head. Use the long tail to whip stitch around, adding more stuffing to the neck area before closing completely.
2. Position and sew horns: Place horns on top of head, angled slightly outward. Sew securely with yarn tails.
3. Attach snout: Center below eyes, slightly stuffed. Sew around the edge.
4. Sew arms: Position arms on sides of body just below the neck seam. Sew flat edge directly to body.
5. Attach legs: Sew to bottom front of body so your dragon sits upright.
6. Attach tail: Sew the cream end of tail to center back of body, pointing down and curving forward.
7. Add tail spots: Sew red and yellow spots onto tail at slight angles, as shown in photo.
8. Embroider details (optional): Use a length of yarn to create a small smile line or nostril details if desired. The photo shows a subtle embroidered mouth.
Tips for Working with Chenille Yarn
Chenille yarn can be slippery. Here are my best tips:
- Use a smaller hook than the label suggests for amigurumi. You want tight stitches.
- Count every round. Use a stitch marker religiously. Chenille makes it hard to see individual stitches.
- Feel your stitches with your fingers if you lose your place.
- Go slow on decreases. Insert your hook carefully through front loops only.
How to Customize Your Dragonite Plush
This crochet pattern works beautifully in other colors too. Try:
- Classic orange and teal for a more traditional Dragonite look
- Pastel rainbow horns and tail for a fantasy version
- All blue for a shiny variant
You could also add small wings using a simple oval shape if you want extra details.
Final Thoughts
You did it. Or you are about to. Either way, I am so excited for you to bring this cream Dragonite amigurumi plush to life with your hook and yarn. This pattern combines simple techniques with stunning results, making it perfect for crocheters who want an impressive finished piece without overwhelming complexity.
I hope this step by step crochet tutorial gave you everything you need. If you make one, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your finished projects honestly makes my whole week.
Thank you for trusting me with your crafting time. Now go grab that yarn and get started. You have got this.
