Purple Monarch Butterfly Shawl Crochet Pattern

A shawl like this keeps you cozy during chilly evenings while making a stunning statement piece for special occasions. This triangular cluster-lace design features overlapping shell fans, a four-piece crocheted butterfly appliqué, contrast outlines in black, and beaded fringe that catches the light beautifully. The pattern uses double crochet clusters and single crochet throughout, making it suitable for intermediate to advanced crocheters ready for a rewarding challenge.

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Purple Monarch Butterfly Shawl Crochet Pattern

Whether you are making this for yourself or as a memorable handmade gift, the finished shawl spans approximately 150 to 160 cm across the wingspan with a 75 to 80 cm center depth. That generous size wraps around your shoulders perfectly. The butterfly adds a whimsical touch that transforms this from a lovely shawl into a true conversation piece.

This is a project that takes time and attention, but every stitch builds toward something spectacular. The construction breaks down into manageable sections: triangle foundation, raised fans, butterfly pieces, and final assembly. Let me walk you through everything you need to know to bring this beauty to life.

Materials You Will Need

Before you begin, gather all your supplies. Having everything ready makes the process smoother and more enjoyable.

Yarn:

  • Royal purple (Color A): 1,200 meters of fingering or light sport weight yarn with good drape
  • Black (Color B): 550 meters
  • Lavender (Color C): 80 meters
  • White (Color D): 200 meters
  • Allow 15% extra for gauge variation
  • Hooks:

  • 3.5 mm hook for the main shawl
  • 3 mm hook for the butterfly
  • Notions:

  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers (removable)
  • Blocking mat and pins
  • Optional: 80 to 100 smooth purple beads with holes large enough for your yarn (use yarn knots instead if beads are unsuitable)
  • Finished Size and Gauge

    Target dimensions: Approximately 150 to 160 cm wingspan by 75 to 80 cm center depth, excluding the 15 cm fringe.

    Gauge check: Block a 10-row practice triangle. The long edge should measure about 38 to 40 cm. Use the same hook for the full piece. These measurements are targets, not tested sample measurements, so checking your gauge matters.

    Abbreviations and Terminology

    This pattern uses US crochet terminology. Here are all the abbreviations you will encounter:

  • ch = chain: wrap yarn over hook and pull through loop
  • sl st = slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
  • sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops
  • hdc = half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops
  • dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops
  • st/sts = stitch/stitches
  • sp = space
  • RS/WS = right side/wrong side
  • rep = repeat
  • Increase = 2 stitches worked into one stitch
  • sc2tog or dc2tog = join the next 2 stitches into 1 (a decrease)
  • Important note: Turning chains do not count as a stitch unless a step explicitly says they do.

    A cluster in this pattern means 3 double crochet stitches worked into the same space.

    Triangle Foundation

    This section creates the base of your shawl. Work flat and turn each row. In this section, ch 3 counts as the first dc.

    Place a removable marker in the center ch-2 space as you work. The two ends form the straight neck edge, and the marked space forms the lower point.

    Row 1 (Color A)

    Make an adjustable ring. Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc into ring. Tighten the ring. Turn.

    Count: 2 clusters, 6 dc, 1 center space.

    Row 2

    Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in center space. Ch 1, 3 dc in last st (top of turning ch). Turn.

    Count: 4 clusters, 12 dc, 2 side ch-1 spaces.

    Row 3

    Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, ch 1. Work 3 dc in the side ch-1 sp, ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in center. Ch 1, 3 dc in next side ch-1 sp, ch 1. Work 3 dc in last st. Turn.

    Count: 6 clusters, 18 dc, 4 side ch-1 spaces.

    Rows 4 through 40

    Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, ch 1. Work 3 dc in every side ch-1 space, with ch 1 between clusters and before the center. In center work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). Ch 1, then 3 dc in each remaining side space, separating clusters with ch 1. Ch 1, 3 dc in last st. Turn.

    Keep all rows in Color A.

    Count Checks

    At row n: you will have 2n clusters, 6n dc, and 2n-2 side ch-1 spaces, plus the center ch-2 space.

  • Row 10: 20 clusters
  • Row 20: 40 clusters
  • Row 30: 60 clusters
  • Row 40: 80 clusters
  • Stop at row 40 and fasten off. Do not mistake the turning chain for a side space.

    Raised Fans and Edging

    This section adds the beautiful overlapping scale effect that makes this shawl so striking.

    Fan Placement

    Lay your work with the right side facing up and the neck edge horizontal. Apply fans to rows 12, 14, 16, and every second row through row 38. Use the ch-1 spaces of each selected row.

    The fan top lies over the row above, creating shallow overlapping scales. This adds substantial weight, so check the drape after completing two fan rows. Adjust if needed.

    One Fan Row (Color A)

    Join Color A with a sl st to the middle dc of the outermost cluster. Work 5 dc into the next ch-1 space, then sl st into the middle dc of the next cluster. Repeat to center. Fasten off before the center ch-2 space.

    Repeat separately on the other half of the shawl. Each half has n-1 fans on row n. Do not work fans into the center space.

    Fan Outlines (Color B)

    For each fan row, join Color B at its first anchor. Sl st loosely through the top of each of the 5 fan dc, then sl st in anchor. Repeat along the fans. Keep the strand loose enough that the shawl stays flat. Fasten at each center and end.

    On fan rows 16, 24, and 32, use Color D for the middle 3 sl sts of alternate fans. This creates those lovely white accents you see in the design.

    Outer Border Round 1 (Color B)

    Join at a neck corner. Along the two sloping edges (the outermost row 40), sc in each dc and each ch-1 space. Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the center point.

    At the far neck corner, ch 1, then work about 2 sc into each dc row-end along the straight neck edge. Ease the count to avoid rippling. Join to first sc.

    Border Round 2

    Ch 1, sc in first st. Along each slope, repeat: ch 3, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc.

    If 1 or 2 stitches remain at a corner, skip those together. Work (sc, ch 3, sc) into the point. Work 1 sc per sc along the neck edge. Join and fasten off.

    The scallops must lie flat. Adjust only the final skip at each corner, not the body counts.

    Butterfly Pieces

    The butterfly is crocheted in four separate pieces, then assembled. Use your 3 mm hook for this section.

    Upper Wings (Make 2 in Color A)

    Ch 3.

    Row 1: Sc in second ch and next ch. (2 sts)

    Ch 1 and turn each row. The turning ch never counts.

    Rows 2 through 10: 2 sc in first st, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st. (Increase 2 each row. Row 10 = 20 sts)

    Rows 11 through 14: Sc across. (20 sts)

    Rows 15 through 18: Sc2tog, sc to last 2, sc2tog. (18, 16, 14, 12 sts)

    Fasten off. The narrow starting end joins the body.

    Lower Wings (Make 2 in Color C)

    Ch 7.

    Round 1: 2 sc in second ch, sc in next 4, 3 sc in last ch. Work down the underside: sc in next 4, sc in last ch beside starting increase. (14 sts)

    Mark first st and work continuously.

    Round 2: 2 sc in each of first 2 sts, sc 4, 2 sc in each of next 3, sc 4, 2 sc in last st. (20 sts)

    Round 3: (Sc, inc) twice, sc 4, (sc, inc) three times, sc 4, sc, inc. (26 sts)

    Round 4: (2 sc, inc) twice, sc 4, (2 sc, inc) three times, sc 4, 2 sc, inc. (32 sts)

    Sl st next st, fasten off.

    Outline and Veins (Colors B and D)

    Sc evenly around each wing in Color B, using 1 sc per stitch and about 1 per sc row-end. Add 1 extra sc at any corner that curls.

    Embroider 4 radiating Color B lines from each narrow base toward the outer edge, using short backstitches without pulling tight.

    Add evenly spaced Color D French knots or tiny straight stitches inside the dark outline for detail.

    Body (Color B)

    Ch 25. Sc in second ch and each remaining ch. (24 sts)

    Work 3 more rows of 24 sc, turning with ch 1.

    Fold lengthwise and whipstitch long edges, lightly stuffing with yarn ends if desired.

    Sew the two upper wings to the upper two-thirds and lower wings to the lower third. Set wings at slightly upward angles.

    Stitch ch-12 antennae to top and knot ends. Avoid wire for safety and ease of care.

    Assembly and Finish

    Attach Butterfly

    Block wing pieces lightly. Pin arrangement first, then sew the body and wing bases to the upper right chest area.

    Add small stabilizing tacks halfway along each wing if it flops. Keep needlework on the fabric surface and do not catch unrelated layers.

    A finished wingspan around 25 to 30 cm is a useful target. Adjust hook or yarn only after making a trial wing.

    Fringe

    Cut 32 cm strands in Colors B and D.

    Fold 2 strands together. Pull the fold through one border ch-3 loop, then pass tails through fold and snug. Repeat in every second border loop along the two slopes, alternating color pairs.

    If adding beads, thread one onto each selected tail and secure with a double knot.

    Trim to an even 15 cm after blocking.

    Butterfly Tassel

    Wrap Colors B and D together 20 times around a 16 cm card. Tie top firmly and cut bottom. Bind 1 cm below top and sew under the butterfly body.

    Add optional bead only if attachment is secure. Keep tassel removable for washing.

    Block and Care

    Soak according to yarn label. Support all the weight when lifting. Press between towels and pin the triangle evenly.

    Keep the butterfly raised on a folded towel while drying. Never hang the wet shawl.

    Hand wash gently if compatible with yarn. Dry flat.

    Fit and Troubleshooting Tips

    For a smaller shawl: Stop at an even row and omit fan rows beyond it. Keep the same count formula.

    Cupping: Increase hook size or loosen surface outlines.

    Ruffling: Remove excess border stitches.

    Heavy butterfly: Use lighter yarn or tack wing edges in more places.

    Confirm gauge, drape, bead security, and neck comfort on the completed sample before wearing or gifting.

    Purple Monarch Butterfly Shawl Crochet Pattern

    Final Thoughts on This Purple Monarch Butterfly Shawl Crochet Pattern

    This shawl is absolutely worth the time investment. The layered fans create incredible depth and movement, while the butterfly transforms your finished piece into wearable art. Every detail, from the contrast outlines to the beaded fringe, comes together to make something truly special.

    Take your time with each section. The triangle foundation goes quickly once you find your rhythm, and the fans are satisfying to see stack up row after row. The butterfly itself makes a wonderful small project within the larger piece.

    I hope you enjoy every stitch of this pattern. Thank you for choosing to make this beautiful shawl, and I truly appreciate you being here. If you create this piece, I would absolutely love to see it! Share your finished shawl on Instagram or Facebook and tag me so I can celebrate your work.

    If this pattern caught your eye, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And please leave a comment below if you make this shawl. I love hearing how projects turn out and seeing the color combinations you choose!

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